Mariah

Hello: I have 2 (his and hers) Sanibel 36-600's and have only sailed one of them so far. In that short period of time, before mother nature froze everything I realized I have lot to learn about sailing.

Anyhow, to my concerns. For those of you that may own a Sanibel I would like to know what you use to hold the "cockpit" down so water does not get in. I know it comes with rubber bands but I am not sure if I trust this method.

For others that had suggested using tape to waterproof other hatches, the Sanibel has one of these also, what kind of tape is best?

My biggest concern is the steel wire that runs the length of the boat and is connected to the sail servo under the cockpit cover. If it breaks how do you get it fixed? It is not shown as a replacement part. Is it part of what you get if you bought a replacement Transmitter?

The reason the wire is going to break is what I think is a poor design. As someone said in a previous post the transmitter needs something to limit movement of the sail servo joystick and I have had to do that. I know that this probably confusing but I hope Sanibel owners understand what I am talking about.

There was a concern in past posts about broken rudders, well I happy to say they have corrected that problem. The rudder now comes unattached with a separate sheet of instructions on how to install it.

Thanks in advance the help and advice, it is most appreciated

Arthur Barnhart

Guiri

The electric boat users swear by hockey tape for sealing hatches.

andy1499

Clear packing tape is often used, and hobby stores sometimes sell called vinyl sealing tape (for the powerboaters mostly) that should work. Other than that, you can try to retrofit your boats with a different hatch design entirely...

Good luck!

Andy

john j m

Most suppliers of model yacht building materials offer self adhesive polyester deck patch material it usualy comes in all colors in 54" wide meter runs.
There is also a 1" wide self adhesive cloth tape, that will even stick to wet surfaces it's ideal for repairs to deck or hull and sealing hatches.
Regret that I do not know of any suppliers in the States but I am sure that some must exsist, as we have several here in the UK

Seasons Greeting,
John [8D]

andy1499

The only 'problem' I would see with using that material is that it's more expensive... packing tape is cheaper by a wide margin.

However, that tape you're talking about it available at www.gbmy.com in the 'sailmaking' area.

Andy

andy1499

Here's a link...

http://www.gbmy.com/csailmake.html

Andy

atwinda

Just off the top of my head, if not packing tape, sticky-back Mylar from a sail loft would do the trick.. as well as stick-back insigna.

john j m

Ok, if you are on a budget and it’s economy that you are looking for we have a vinyl household product that sells under the trade name “FABLON� it is intended to be used for resurfacing kitchen work tops.
This material comes in 1-meter rolls of many colours its backing paper is marked into grids which makes cutting to size relatively easy.
Once the backing is removed the vinyl film is incredibly sticky and can be difficult to apply, so advance planning is recommended, I have found that if applying the vinyl to hatches it is best to do so in a warm room, as with all material it does tend to expand and consequently contract when cooled giving a tight drum like surface.
I think that “FABLON� is a world wide product and that there should be no problem in obtaining it wherever you are, and whilst it is definitely not as good as a designated product it will do the job and is certainly a less expensive alternative.
John [8D]

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

Arthur,
The best thing you can do is put in a elastic tensioner.
The only problem I have had is the plastic drum on the winch broke. I made a new drum and put in a elastic tensioner, works very good now.
Don

Mariah

Don: I was hoping you would see my post and reply. I had reviewed past post and saw you owned a Sanibel.

I like what you did and may try that. My real concern and why I was forced to limit the travel of the sail joystick was I was afraid that the line connection would go through the metal pulleys at each end of the boat.

I do have have a question for you and it concerns the TX that comes with the boat. I have 2 TX's and the joystick for the sail servo on one is self centering. On the other it is not. Can you tell me which way is correct.

Thanks
Arthur

PS. To all of you that helped with the tape question, thank you very much[>:]

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

(The sail servo on one is self centering. On the other it is not. Can you tell me which way is correct.)

A. You do not want the sail servo self centering, you want to be able to hold the sail in any position. I built a limit stop for the TX.
Don M.

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

Arthur,

My limit stop for the TX. Took about 15 min. to make.
Don M.

Mariah

Don: That is not what I would have expected to see. I took a different approach and glued 1/8" pieces of wood to the TX to limit the travel of the joystick in both directions, up and down.

Could explain why you did it that way. Remember I am brand new at the hobby-sailing.

Arthur

Actually as I look at the first picture you sent I have an idea why you did it that way.

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

Ever notice that a sailboat looks like a Christmas Tree?

Stevearm

I have a Sanibel, unfortunately the cable for the sail servo has snapped. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement along with the crimps etc?

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

Sporting goods store, nylon coated stringer line.
I got mine at Wal Mart.

Mariah

I had the same luck as Don, found what I think is leader line at Wal Mart in the fishing department along with what I think is the proper connectors. The line apears to be steel cable which is what I believe leader line is made of.

Arthur

RCMagic

I used beading wire (found in arts and Craft or in beading stores) it comes in different diamaters, look for the nylon coated 3 strand or more.

Hope it works it did for me.

rcsailor

I own a Sanibel 36 and my winch drum broke also as did the cable that was attached. Off to my machine shop where I had a new one made of alum. As for the cable, I replaced
it with 50 Lb. braded fishing line.

Have never had any trouble with the hatch hold down system, just replace the elastic once in a while.

CAUTION A Sanibel wing on wing in a 20 MPH wind going downwind will become a submarine, it is neat to see water up on the deck to the mast.

MatthewBN

I am also new to sailing and my line broke. How did you guys feed it through the holes (From front to radio tray). Also I think the line from the front goes on top and the line from the back goes on bottom. Are they spun around in the same or opposite directions. Any picture or a place to see the wire lay out would be a big help.

Thanks
Matthew

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

The best thing you can do is put in a elastic tensioner.
The only problem I have had is the plastic drum on the winch broke. I made a new drum and put in a elastic tensioner, works very good now.
Don

Mariah

Matthew: I would love to be able to be able to help you but my cable has not broken yet. I know it is going too soon so if you figure out how to thread it through the boat please let me know

Thanks

Arthur

skyhawk73

Just replaced my steel wire that goes the length of the sanibel. Bought Sevnstrand 18GA stanless steel wire from Wallmart's fishing isle. Bought small brass tube from local hobbie shop. Bought two feet of weedeater fuel line from hardware store.

Used bailing wire to fish the weedeater fuel line threw the sailboat cockpit. Cut the brass tube into several 1/4 inch crimps. Wrapped three winds around the top and bottom of servo wheel. Final adjustment was to crimp the boom lines to the steel wire.

Cut a #64 rubberband and applied glue to both sides and wrapped the rubber around the bottom of the left stick of the transmitter. The rubber limits the travel of the stick nicely.