spindrift

Hey guys - looking for suggestions on waterproofing your gear.
I did some web searching on waterproofing boat electronics. For the RX & battery I figured that the balloon or screw top pot or water proof container ideas made sense so I am figuring out a method for those. But then I ran across some info from the CR-914 website. There was a detailed article about waterproofing the electronics with vaselene. The details got down to removing the RX case and bathing the RX circuit board and everything with vaselene. For the servos it mentioned lossening the case screws and smearing vaselene into the case seams, and around the servo output shaft.

1. Does anyone have opinions / suggestions for servo protection? I initially was thinking about running a bead of silicone along the case joints and screw locations - but hadnt figured out what to do for the output shaft casing penetration - vaselene sounds easy enough.
2. Has anyone bathed their RX with vaselene - any precautions, suggestions?
3. WD40 was suggested for the switch and connectors.

Hatch sealing ?
My boat has a large rectangular wood hatch cover that fits over a raised rectangular lip in the deck. At this time it has no means of securing it to the hull other than its weight. I was thinking about putting a strip of weather strip foam tape along the top of the lip to help keep water out.
Anyone have simple suggestions for holding down the hatch? I guess I could tape the joint if its the best but putting tape on and removing it sounds like a mess to me.

Thanks again for all your help - Sorry I dont know anyone directly that can help so your knowledgeable assistance is greatly appreciated.
spin

CaptDon

I also race gasoline powered boats. I run open servo's in all my boats and NEVER had a water related problem. I use Futaba 3302 1/4 scale servos for both rudder and throttle. Futaba makes other water resistant servos too. I do paint the seams with a liquid electrical insulation, just to make sure. My boats have been upside-down for extended periods and never had a water problem. My receiver and battery are in a small box. The lid fits flush and is taped shut with R/C radio box tape. It's water proof and easy to remove, even months after it's installed. I wish I knew how to post pictures here so I could show you.

Don

andy1499

I recommend a product called 'Aeroplate' to treat your connectors, rather than WD-40. Aeroplate disolves corrosion and prevents it from forming on your electronics. many people even treat their Rx's with it (including me).

[link=http://www.aerotrend.com]www.aerotrend.com[/link]

The best way to minimize corrosion is to properly dry the electronics after sailing... I open my hatches (both main hatch and rudder hatch on my Seawind and let everything dry.

Andy

spindrift

CaptDon - thanks for the info - it sounds like the waterproof box for the servo and bat may be a good idea.

Andy,
Thanks I went to the aeroplate site. Aeroplate does sound like it does a bit more than WD40. So when you say you treat you RX with aeroplate do you take the RX board out of the plastic case and treat the entire circuit board?

Thanks for the suggestions - I dont even know how wet anything will get but Id rather start off properly protected than learn the hard way. Plus I may have this in salt water more than fresh.

Thanks
Spin

LtDoc

Spin,
Water proofing any reciever can be a real 'bear', mostly from water proofing parts of the thing that really shouldn't be water proofed such as the connections, servo, batt, etc. Cleaning those connection is not easy. The 'other' typical solution, a water tight box, can also be a problem because of the same thing, getting the connector cabling into/out of the thing with no leakage. I guess it really just depends on just how water proof things have to be. A 'casual' water proofness isn't to difficult. A completely water proofness (did I make up a new word?) isn't 'casual' at all, and is probably a box (ask the 'sub' guys).
The absolute best method isn't water proofing at all! Only run your boat in sterile water, it doesn't conduct...
- 'Doc

PS - If you take a picture of this post, hang it in your garden, you'll be amazed at the increase in growth! Gonna be one of those days...

brettos01

Try these boxes, they are IP65 waterproof rated.

The boxes have a rubber "O" ring in the lid and are very resistant to water ingress.

Hope this helps you, Regards Brettos.

spindrift

LtDoc,
Sterile water - That would be nice, good on the electronics and shouldnt leave any spots on the hull after sailing...
For initial sea trials I will do the balloon / glove thing. That way I can change things as needed before I make a more permanent installation.
Yeah the waterproof box will make it awkward with the connectors. I think I have enough room to get a setup with everything on the SCU board, even the waterproof box. Then everything can go in and come out as one complete package. Obviously my problem will be when I need to fix / replace or troubleshoot.

I agree with the casual waterproofness (I like the word) - I am just so used to Murphy creaping in on real boats, you know what shouldnt get wet will get wet. On the other hand - its a hobby and I should just consider the chance of occasional water damage as the cost to play.

Brettos,
I have seen those boxes somewhere before and actually forgot about them - Thanks.
I thought I was close with a simple waterproof travel case about the size of a digital camera - it almost fit the RX and batteries had a hinged lid, o-ring seal and latch.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Spindrift, the price of Aeroplate is cheap considering how many recievers and servo's you can do out of one tiny squirt bottle. If you save one cheap servo, it's paid for itself. WD-40 isn't good on circuit boards or electric motors, it will eat them up! Forget Vaseline, it melts too easily and will make a nasty mess.
Don't cheap out here, use something good.
Aeroplate has saved many a servo and reciever for me. I've had radio boxes full of watr after having a boat flip yet all I had to do was drain it out and go running.

pompebled

On my Voyager 1M I've made the hatch watertight ( which it wasn't...) and made sure the steering servo and sailservo can not come into contact with water unless the boat is sinking.
(If that should happen, I haven't been paying attention while sailing the boat, or it has been run over by a 1:1 craft...)

The receiver is velcroed on a pedestal for the same reason, no balloon (which I'm likely to forget, causing my receiver to perish from moisture trapped inside the balloon) and no special treatment for the servo's.

Haven't had a single failure in over a year, in which I've sailed her almost daily, often in a lot of wind.

Regards, Jan.

andy1499

Spin,

I removed the circuit board on the Rx from the plastic case and dipped it in a small amount of Aeroplate. I did the same with the connectors. If your connectors already have some corrosion, try brushing the metal leads off with a toothbrush gently, then dip them in the lubricant, then pat them dry.

Andy

spindrift

Thanks to all for the help -

Ron / Andy - I will definately get some aeroplate. Everything I have is brand new, RX, connectors, etc - So I think Ill coat them all - it cant hurt and at best it will help. I would rather be protected best I can and aeroplate definately looks much easier and less messy than vaselene.

Glad I asked the experts - Thanks again,
Spin

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

You probably thought that same thing that I did, "Sheesh, $15.00 a bottle" but the bottle will last you for years. I've done all of the RX's and servos in my fleet and have only gone through maybe half a bottle.
Most LHS's can get it for you although they may not have a clue as to what it is, that's what I ran up against but if they can get Aerotrend tuned pipe couplers and other things that Aerotrend sells, it shouldn't be a problem.

spindrift

Ron,
Id rather spend the money and do it right - that 15$ sounds cheap if it helps keep the boat from sailing off the horizon. Once I got the name aeroplate and did some web searches on it I found a bunch of feedback and useage suggestions for the product. My plan now - waterproof box or not is to coat everything with the aeroplate. From the sounds of it regardless of the water or not it will protect the electronics from corrosion.

I might put together a small elect boat for the kids to dink around with - so I can definately find uses for the left over product.

Thanks for the great advice,
spin

brettos01

I may be going overboard here but there is a product called a "silica pack".

It is 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/4" and is inpregnated with a chemical that dehumidifies the air in the radio box, stopping condensation and has no ill effect on electronic equipment.

These packs are used for industrial electronics in wet environments.

Check out www.levosil.com

Regards Brettos.

andy1499

I'm definately no expert! However, I am happy to help.

I have a question for those already using Aeroplate...

How long do you recommend I should wait to re-apply the lubricant, as I'm sure it won't coat forever. I applied mine in the middle of the season last year.

I'm just wondering what other people think.

Andy

IanHB

Do not under any circumstance use WD 40 on your electronics.
CRC do make a product that I have used for many years called "66 Marine."
This is made for use on outboard motors and other boat parts, to drive out water, loosen rusted parts and protect stuff.
I take my receivers and servos apart and fill them with "SuperLube" after spraying with 66 Marine.
That has been good to me for many years.

oldtaylorcraft

These are good also, ACF-50 and corrosion -X http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/corrosion.html
http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/w...atalogId=10051 and this one is cheap and works great.

spindrift

Thanks for the additional suggestions guys. I am waiting for the aeroplate I ordered. The other stuff listed I can probably get at a local marine hardware store. CRC stuff should also be at local suppliers.

I saw recommendations for Corrosion X on a RC powerboater site - seems that they are happy with it.

I did pick up some silicone grease that sounded like a good fit to seal the servo case upper output shaft. Ill put a small bead around that area and it should keep out any water and allow the servo to rotate freely. Sounded better than vaselene..

Question - I plan on covering the RX and servo circuit boards with aeroplate. Does anyone open the servo potentiometers and apply in there or do you just spray the exterior ? Would getting the aeroplate inside the pot cause problems with the pot ?

Thanks for all the help..
spin

oldtaylorcraft

Areoplate is a dielectric and will probably cause problems in the pot. The areoplate site makes it sound like its dielectric properties dont intefere with flow of electricity, but a dielectric by definition is a substance that is a poor conductor.I would keep it out.

spindrift

oldtaylorcraft,
That makes sense and it was nagging me a bit - the pot wiper and contact surfaces need to be clean or it wont work correctly so any dialectric or poor conducting may cause a problem with the pot - thanks for the help. Unless anyone comments that they do it all the time with great results I dont think I will.

Sounds like the aeroplate works well on the connectors since they have a pressure fit ensuring good contact. All the aeroplate will do is keep down corrosion that would ultimately hinder good contact. Also sounds like the aeroplate should help on the RX and servo circuit boards reducing corrosion and any tracking/short circuiting caused by corrosion or moisture.

great help - thanks again, now if it would arrive so I can dunk the stuff....................

jdoug

True Aeroplate is a dielectric. I use CorrosionX, also a dielectric. Being a dielectric, it helps stop electrolysis, which will cause corrosion and eventually a bad connection on your electrical connectors. I've coated the entire circuit board of all servos, ESCs, RX's, and connectors in all my boats. I've also had a leaky radio box on my gas boat that ended up filling with water. With all electronics treated with CorrosionX it was OK. I actually saw everything working under water before I emptied it.

tillsonburgretread

Aeroplate works great even cleaning saltwater from connections.



I put my Harbour models Oscar ,[servo controlled dory] in the Bay of Fundy and found salt water corrodes wiring in less than an hour, after using Aeroplate the computer chip operated
as it should,but not before I cleaned the servo connections on the receiver Aeroplate isolated the signal completely, read instructions and follow them you will not go wrong.
regards Alex

rva1945

I wouldn't recomend using oil derived products, like vaselene or wd40, because it simply degrades the varnish that is present in some coils or covering some insulator layers, rendering the electronics useless; I prefer to add some silicone between gaps, as in the screw locations. Don't let the water reach the electronics, stop it at the case.

Regards and good luck.

Robert