trumpteb

I'm putting my old Bingo back into service and would like to paint the keel and hull preferably white. I understand there is a gel coat surfaceon itand it has to be sanded off before painting. I've read the threds as to whatweights of sand paper to use but I'mnot at all sure about the paint to use. I've started sanding on the keel but before I begin the hull I want to be sure the paint question is answered. I would like to usethe spraypaint from a can, I don't have a spray gun system besides, I'm trying to keep the cost down.

What is the best brand of paint to use for this boat after it has been prepared? I talked witha body shop person and they said that car body paint is not waterproof.. Here is what I've come up with but don't know quite where to go.
Krylon - keepsbeing mentioned any suggestions on it's use?
Lustre Coat - runs easly and doesn/t cover well..use it ABS and it's not my favorite
Klass Kate - ?
Duplicolor - couldn't find it at our Wal Mart and our body shops in this area don't carry spray can paint.
Rustolewn - takes time to cure

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

trumpteb

Al Stein

First, the gel coat shouldn't be removed, it only needs to be scuffed. If it's removed, you're left with raw fibers that need additional resin or something similar to coat them for painting, or they will show through the paint.

Next, Auto paint is waterproof (ever notice that cars are made of steel but they can sit in the rain for years without rusting?) General purpose auto primer IS porous because its made to do two things grab the underlying surface and provide a surface that paint can grab onto strongly and permanently). However, the paint on a fiberglass model hull is not there to keep the water out... if the fiberglass isn't good enough to do that, you're in trouble no matter what you use for paint, so for that concern, just make sure the 'glass is good if it's not, adding a layer of 1/2oz cloth before is probably your best answer.

On to paint brands, what's "best" kinda depends... I've seen some beautiful, tough jobs in Krylon and in Rustoleum and even in the cheap (er, I mean most inexpensive) stuff from the department store. If you wanted custom colors and effects, then custom mixed automotive enamels are amazing stuff but they're pricey, they take extra work to use, and it takes some skill to apply them well.

Whatever the paint, I suggest that you use an automotive degreaser, then wet sand the surface that's to be painted with 400 grit wet/dry paper. Once the whole surface is scuffed down with the 400, I'd shoot it with a primer that's compatible with the paint you'll be using to finish the boat. If you want a really good finish, then fair it and glaze it while it's in primer (i.e. fill any low spots, dings, pin holes, bubbles, or scratches) and make sure any filling is nicely feathered into the surrounding area. (If you can see a sharp edge before painting, you'll be able to see it after painting, too.) After the glazing, degrease again, give it another coat of primer, and then it's time for paint. Good luck!

OK, you can make it pretty hard or pretty easy so it's somebody else's turn to put in their opinions...

srw1960

What he said!!!! Since you are painting a sail boat we dont have to worry about fuel eating it so you can use about anything...dupli color is used alot you can get it at most auto parts places it is available in enamel and urethane make sure you use the right primer for the color IE urethane primer with urethane top coat and enamel for enamel...400 grit scuff is perfect just make sure any surface that gets painted doesnt have any shine left to it before you prime or paint...and remember thin light coats get ya there better than thick heavy ones...after the paint is dry you can wet sand with 1200 grit and buff if you like just make sure and put at least 7 coats of color if you are going to sand and buff you will loose probably 5 coats to that process...anyway hope I have helped..

Have funnn and take care

Dreamin Hemi

Again, I'll mention to NOT REMOVE THE GEL LAYER! You will have a nightmare of pinholes to fill if you do. Prep as mentioned above and use your choice of any paint type as gelcoat is not effected by any of them....it's actually a perfect primer, especially white gelcoat for lighter finish colors.

misshydro

DONT REMOVE THE GELCOAT!!!!!!!!!!Since this is an electric boat wright? first get a red scotch bright pad..you can get them at your local autoparts store.. Then use pre sol=aka tar&wax&grease remover.you can get that to at your local autoparts store too......Ok here we go... first wash the boat hull with prep sol...then scuff the gelcoat hull with the red scotchbright pad.....then re wash the hull down again with prep sol...Ok for paints.. You can Use Dupi-color rattle cans color and clear.. Get the SUV big can of dupi-color clear..It's a good clear...here my oberto painted with dupi-color rattle cans,but there toped off with Crossfire automotive urethane clear on them because there nitro boats,and nitro&gas will eat threw rattle can paint because they are not cattlelized/dont have hardners in them..[image][/img]

srw1960

Ok Gotta say it..Hydro I respectya Irealy do you have helped alot of people here and I know Im kinda new in here and all BUT I gotta say a swipe with red,brown or whatever scotch brite isnt good enough for proper adhesion to gel coat..on soft primers or paint even ya it would probably do ok..

all I have ever used it for is scuffing areas normal paper wont reach and gel coat is hard stuff I REALLY think it needs to be hit with no finer than 400 grit..the old timers that taught me said anything finer than 400 and it wont stick...A scotchbrite swipe is what the people that give us the 199.99 paint jobs consider hand sanded surface and we all know how those turn out...I think the boats deserve a bit better dont you???whats a little piece of paper and a little elbow grease gonna hurt???

And again Im not trying to slam ya or diss ya please dont take it the wrong way Im just askin the question...

Yall have fun and take care.....OH YA Its gettin hot out there we set records for temp here in Houston today be carefull in the heat

trumpteb

Thanks for all the replys, absolutly awsome! So, here's the plan...I'm picking up the items today...
1. use auto degreaser to wash down the hull and keel
2. sand w/400 wet/dry and scuff all "shine" spots with paper..I'm opting out of using a scuff pad, used them before but there a little to course for this.
3. use primer...making the primer and paint compatable...same product.
4. fill in "dings". (see below)
5. feather the sufraces
5. degrease again
7. another coat of primer
8. paint!

#4. what do you use to fill in the dings and holes?
I'm looking at Dupli-Color and Krylon...Krylon has paint for plastic and "general" usage, is the general usage the one?
How does this process look? REALLY appreciate the replys, the advice I've been getting here is 180 degrees different, but it all helps.

srw1960

If the dings and chips are small and shallow use whats called glazing putty some brands come in a tube and you just squirt some on a squegge and fill them in let it dry aboutn15 minutes then sand smooth you may need more than one application to get it all filled in..
And other brands may come in a can and need to be mixed with a hardner before you use it but either way apply and sand the same way..I think the 2 part puttym is a bit better it doesnt shrink as much thats the kind that needs a hardner put in it..

And I really think it best to stick with dupli color I know for fact it will work good and hold up I dont think krylon will do so well I dont even use that for painting crappy chassis parts on my ugly vette...and you dont need anything that is specifically for plastic technically fiberglass gel coat isnt plastic..those paints have an adhesion promoter added into them to help them stick to oily plastics better..plastics like poly propelene and modified poly ethelene or high density poly ethelene is what that stuff is made for if you use krylon just use the good old fashioned kind preferablyin urethane if you can find krylon in urethane...

And it sounds like you are on youre way good luck follow the sugestions WE have given ya and you should do well and we want to see pics when done ok!!

Have funnn and take care..Im off into 101 degree heat to do some paint work myself

misshydro

oh yes it is!!!! what paint school did you go too?? your an ASE certified??? If you took paint school they reconmend using a red and gray scotchbright pad on new car or new surfaces...to do the base colors and gray for the clears.....I use red threw all my perperations....mostly were I cant get my sand paper too.. Just say you have to paint a fender that has a dent in the front end???Do you wet sand the whole fender with 400?????????No you dont,just the area that is primed and needs color..the area that gets color blended gets scuffed with gray scotch bright pad,But I use The red and had no troubles with any adheasion proublems or sand scratch marks..I like to see you sand the whole fend with 400 grit paper and clear it..You'll see the 400 grit sand marks......paint adheasion is all in surface prepation.....Has for the MACCO and EARL SHIBS 199.00 paint jobs... My boyfriend used to work for macco.. All they do is DA the whole car with 320 and not use any scotch bright pads on the cars..You wonder why back a few years ago paint were flaking off?? If they had Red or any scotch bright pads you wouldnt have any proublems in tight areas..Oh back when his grandmas car was fixed they didnt metal patched her car.. they used cardboard&bondo!!! Thats why he got into bodywork..To many butchers out there ripping people off....Heres another thing.. when we do new fiberglass parts like ground effects and other body parts.. I use 400 and red scotch bright pad then wash the parts down with prep sol,then use etching primer then paint the new parts....works great!!!!!!!! For spot puddy,Get ICING by USC.... Its for auto&Marine use.....It mixes like bondo but spreads like icing and sand with 180 with clogging your sand paper..it's light weight too no heavy as bondo.....And do you remember in the early 90's Dupont had troubles with there clears pealing off...

srw1960

Guess we will just have to agree to disagree...and yes I was ase certified in paint,body and frame..I attended the school of here it is get it done and still managed to pass the ase exams the first time around.( HMM did I attack hydros training?) the piece of 400 grit my mentor handed me and explained what it is and what it does and how to use it is the same piece of paper the vo tech instructor holds up in class and tells ya what it is and what it does and how to use it...education is education no matter where you learn it so long as you learn it....

Again Ill say I didnt mean to slam ya or insult ya and I dont beleive I did Just asked the question is all.sorry for upsetting ya..

You do it youre way and Ill do it mine bottom line is both our sugestions will work and I do beleive thats what these forums are suposed to be all about..is expressing ALL OPTIONS.

And as far as my education.I dont like advertising my credentials and affiliations i only do it in my profession because I have to I am not arrogant and it makes me feel that way.. I began doing paint and body in 1979 and quit in 1991 and began a new career.I started at the bottom and through college courses and self teaching I worked my way from the bottom to the top of the food chain..I passed national medical services exams and passed all there scrutiny again the first time around beating out college grads by the way..passed even more stringent state exams...My patients call me DR even though Im not an MD or DO..Im smarter than they are because I know and readily admit I dont have all the answers... I have won awards for my work, Authored a paper with one of the most higly respected orthopedic surgeons in the world and one of the best days of my life was when he admited to me I was right and he was wrong..That dont happen everyday..and hey theres a day named for me in the city of Houston and Sugarland TEXAS because of my receivng a humanitarian of the year award........You still have any questions about my education,inteligence,or ethics????

I apologize to everyone for the rant. I know it is off topic a bit and I really dont like to talk about me like this but I feel the what school did you go to and youre an ase certified ? remark wasent nescasary..and Hydro again Im sorry for upsettin ya was not my intention....

P.S. Got all my boats wet sanded with 400 today so there ready for color...
Yall have funnnn and take care.Oh and a pictures worth a thousand words

Steven R Wilson.LP.LOA.CFO.

misshydro

went to vo tech my self too.. so did my boyfriend.. back then they didnt have or heard of scotch bright pads.....Plus back then you was tought old school.. But old school stuff dont work much these days on new cars and boats..plus they didnt have urethanes or epoxy paints too and pollyister puddys or Z grip fillers plastic bumper fillers&repaire back then....everything is high tec...Thats why lacquers and soon spot puddy in the tube will be obsolete..I didnt mean to offend or slam you...but you said you went to paint school.. I know they recondmend you to use scotch bright pad in paint preperation....thats why I question you about it...Ask Ron Olson..he saw my Obertos .. there very shiny with no paint proublems,there show room finish on them...plus if scotchbright pad isnt good they wouldnt reconmend it in paint schools or paint semmards/clincs class...

srw1960

Ok so how goes it??any progress let us know and post some pics

trumpteb

Talk about teck. stuff...I haven't gotten around to the pictures on the interenet thing but am looking into it! I'm working on the boat on the bad weather days and have a good start, we've had some rain and high winds every day for the past week.

I'm using the 400 on almost everything and am progressing fine. the Bingo deck has a 1 inch slightly raised, smooth border design around the edges and a slightly wider design down the middle. The spaces inbetween the borders are slightly recessed and have a wallfe design, much like the nonslip surface in a bathtub. I'm using the brillo pad to reach the indentations and it's working better than I anticipated. I have some exposed epoxy edges where the deck was attached (first building attempt). Will the primer stick to this surface? I'm thinking it will so will continue to prepare the surface accordinally. I'm going to use Dupli-Color sandable plrimer and Dupli-Color Acrylic Enamel white. I haven't purchased the "filler" yet and will probably go with the two part with the hardner.

This is the first summer I have had some time for the R/C hobbie. I also do sailplanes and glow powered air planes. l have watched guys do the helio's and this is where the "toy" collection stops!

I'll get back with more as things happen....any comments so far?

srw1960

Sounds to me like you are on the right track and you are using the scotch brite exactly as its intended to be used for to get to areas you cant get to with paper..send pics if you can so we can see whats going on and we can advise better that way.but so far so good..keep up the good work..

Have funnn and take care

trumpteb

Well, the city has begun street,curb and driveway work so the entire area is full of construction. Yeah, it leaves a lot of dust so painting is off till it's done, like at least three week!

srw1960

I understand..post pics when ya can and let me know if theres anything else I can help with

hansvonpensch

What grit is scotch brite equal to anyway. Thanks Randy

hansvonpensch

Never mind the last questian, I just Googled, and found out the answer.