IOM Noux Shadows
 

Hi all,

I'm about to start building a Noux2 IOM. I'm going to make a plug to make several fibreglass hulls and decks. (Deck plans to come after first hull is pulled.)
I thought other boat builders might appreciate the shadows I've just drawn up. They are from Anders Wallin's Noux2 design. Note that these are for 2.5mm offset timber planking. And the "stem" piece fits between the nose and shadow ONE. You can download all of the free detail plans from the Anders Wallin site but the shadows are not there.

Cheers [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Many Thanks for posting the shadows.
While I am not planning on using them at the moment, I have already email'd the link to this post to a friend who may well make use of them.
Much Appreciated. [sm=thumbup.gif]

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Hi all,

quick update on Noux2 shadow profiles I posted. I cut them out and started planking today. Good news is the shadows seem to be perfect! I had to trust the plan I had which I had to trace and recreate the shadows from.
Below are some quick pics of the start of my mold build. I think this will be about my ninth build...... :)

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Thanks for the shadows,just printed them out and will start to set up the building platform tommorrow.
Please keep the pics of the build coming as seeing the process is often easier than just reading about it.
Thanks again.
Richard

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Hi Richard,

I'll post more photos BUT I am building a mold :eek:. If you plan to build a boat the normal way, my build pics are no good. Normally you would remove the shadows after you finish planking. With a mold you keep the shadows in for extra strength when sanding and for fibreglassing. After building several boats I find making a plug is much easier in the long run.

If you are building normally I would recommend not using an inner keel. That's the plank that fits into the "notch" at the apex of the shadows. It's a pain to tape over to prevent glueing and makes removing the shadows difficult later.

For the plug I have added 3 x 12mm notches at the gunwales. Not shown in my drawings. That allows for an extra 12 x 2.5 full length plank for added rigidity along the gunnel line. That's the topmost plank that meets the deck. Once again this only applies for a plug. On a normal build this too is a pain to protect from glueing and removing shadows.

Tell me which way you are building and I may have photos from some of my other builds.

Here are some pics of my last boat finished this week. It's a modified USOM taken from my mold. Boat #4 from this mold.

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Cheers Larry,
I am doing a plank hull build.Love the wooden look so will go for clear glassing.
Wooden decks as well.I am going to colour the edges of the planks with permanenet marker so that each plank is easily seen,at least thats the plan at this stage....plans do have a habit of changing however.
I will be using balsa but would like to stain the wood a darker colour........thinking that food colouring could do this job????

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

I found reduced Noux shadows on Anders Wallin's site. "Reduced" is important to take into account the plank thickness and keep from makinga boat that is bigger than a Noux. The other thing I have read, that all people might not realize (hopefully I am correct) is that the only difference betweenNoux and Noux 2 is the deck. Thehulls/shadows are the same.

http://www.anderswallin.net/tag/noux/

I was able to read saved.png files after renaming them as .jpg

Scott

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Hi Scott,

I did say at the outset about my PDF file - Note that these are for 2.5mm offset timber planking. Yes the Andres Wallin site has a plan showing offset profiles. I used this drawing and traced the line profiles to produce the printable shadows. With my shadows and 2.5mm thick balsa you get a boat hull at the correct size. Thanks about the Noux and Noux2 difference re deck. I have drawn my own deck profiles to suit my design to suit my own layout.

K4S been there tried that. I had very bad results trying to stain balsa. The marker pen run along the edges is a good trick as long as you don't slip. For a clear wood finish I found you can't use pins when planking. You can't scarf the planks (join at 45*). Every mistake in planking will show. You can't use wood filler or spray putty as this will show. Planked deck looks great but I saw one guy in ENgland take a year to do his boat. It's very fiddly especially along the curved hull edge. Better to build a fake deck with false planking seperate on a flat surface. When finished trim deck to size and glue onto hull. Of course you add inner gunwales for support.

If you manage all that I've been told spinnaker varnish is the best for a clear finish. The varnish ages over time and gives a "real" boat look. The wood stains I tried looked terrible and soaked thru the balsa. I use epoxy resin for waterproofing, strength and as a final filler for the deck. Then prime and paint.

Below are examples of my painting on some of my boats. The 1.7m boat does have a wood stained deck.

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Gidday there Larry,<div>
</div><div>good to see you building the Noux! have you desided on a deck plan or are you going to go with the Noux deck??</div>

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Yachty Nut !!!

you must be psychic. I was going to post to ask a question. I've drawn up my own profiles for the Noux deck. It'll be a raised foredeck with a skiff aft. Enough depth to just cover rudder servo. I plan to use a mast ram that goes thru the ???? thingy. Vertical panel that divides cockpit.

What I need to know is the exact dimension from the centre of the mast to the face of this support measured along centreline. Anotherwords the space for the Mast Ram. I need this before I can finish the deck plans.

I'll try and find a picture or drawing of where I mean.

At the moment I just finished planking the hull and am about to spend 2 days sanding the plug.

How are you going with your builds. Post pics.

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

More info,

below is a drawing of what I am referring to. I need this distance to finish my deck plans.

Cheers!

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Larry, i have allowed 35mm, also be sure that the tube you fix into the bulkhead id long enough to guide your threaded rod.

Cheers
Mark<br type="_moz" />

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Mark aka Yachty Nut,

thanks heaps for the pics :D. I've not seen a mast ram like yours before. Is it designed just for that boat or an off-the-shelf item? I was planning on just buying a mast ram which is just an adjustment dial and the screw rod. $AU7.30 from RYSA where I get my stuff posted from. They're in Queensland I'm in Sydney.

Based on your photos would be easy to modify my design now to incorporate your design with the RYSA mast ram. Yours looks neater. And, any reason you have your mast inside a tube inside a mast post? Isn't this too much, or was the mast post too big? I'm just guessing based on photos.

Any more advise on deck fittings, design before I go too far?

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

[sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif] Just had a look at the mast ram I was going to order. How the heck does it work?????

Turn the dial and it moves along the thread. Which means the screw needs to adjust from the bulkhead to vary pressure, hence rake. Which means you need another part. A threaded tube glued into the bulkhead and access to the screw head.

Am I totally wrong or is this just plain silly?

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Larry,<div>The screw is fixed, you would then have a hole in your bulkhead for which the screw would pass through, the threaded wheel is your adjuster of which you can used the face of your bulk head to screw against or a fitting like mine which gives the mast sideways support while pushing against the mast.</div><div>
</div><div>If you can do me drawing of your mast ram then i will ad it into a drawing which will show you the idea and i will then be able to give you better dimensions.</div>

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Mark,

here is a detail from the Noux plans. The designer has shown no room for a mast ram.

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Sorry Larry,<div>i meant for you to draw me the mast ram fitting please. even though the designer hasn't allowed for the mast ram it doesn't mean it wont fit. if you dimension the ram itself i'll illistrate what i mean</div><div>
</div><div>Mark</div>

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Mark,

I don't have a ram. If I did could probably work out myself.... My main query was how it worked as well as space required.

Meanwhile build update.

Finished planking. Rough sanded and filler gloop on obvious low spots. Let filler harden then another light sand. Sprayed with aerosol filler and then light coat grey paint. Left 24 hours for filler to set and paint to dry.
Sanded with 120 grade then 240 sandpaper. Removed from base. Now ready for fibreglass.

Why did I paint? This shows all the low spots etc. Pinched the idea from another build by Claudio.

Remember this will be a mold for the fibreglass hull.

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Larry,'
      I have one very similar to that,only differance is that the mast is not completely enclosed,more of a' c' than an' o'.
The screw head goes inside the boat,under the fore deck,thru a hole in the bulkhead.
            the adjuster screw goes between bulkhead and mast ring.
When the mast is stepped,wind the adjuster hard against the bulkhead to hold it at the start position,ie straight up and down.
Too lean the mast forward,wind the adjuster away from the bulkhead.This lets the screw head push forward into the bow.
Too lean the mast back,wind the adjuster towards the bulkhead ,this pulls the screw back out of the bow and racks the mast aft..
Secret to it is on initial set up dont have the screw head hard up against the bulkhead,allow it some play in both fore and aft directions.

Alternative to this with regard to the lack of room between mast and bulkhead you appear to have is a slot cut in the deck just big enough for the top quarter of the adjuster to fit thru.Make the hole in the bulkhead at a hieght that allows this.From there the same operation as above applies.<br type="_moz"/>

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

[img]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/user/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/damn%20straight/Jh15040.gif[/img]

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Thanks K4s,

the mast ram ring is meant to be cut to form a 'C'. Only used as full ring if used at mast foot. My notion is this mast ram is poor design. All the horizontal force is against the adjustment screw dial and the bulkhead. Still most of the photos of IOMs I have show this type of mast ram. Easy to make my own with bolt, washer, nut, lock-nut and a 'C' cup with a blind hole for bolt.
At least now I can finish the deck plans allowing about 20mm for a ram. I'm planning on a fibreglass deck which will now be formed with provision for cockpit bulkhead moved forward from the original drawings which had no space for the mast ram.

K4s, what boats do you have? Thought you were building a Noux?

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Yeah Larry,
               I have the shadows for the NOUX sitting on the table as we speak....just got to find the getroundtoit that I seem to have lost.
               At the moment I have an old wooden schooner,scale model of the ORION two masted topsails ,three jibs.I love sailing her..like stepping back in time..just so relaxing..about 1200mm overall.
                Also an IOM   .....A Carnel design that is fairly dated now but still has its moments on the race course when the skipper gets his act together.
                Having just had a sinking and total loss of a Vapour IOM I am eagerly awaiting the arrival..next week...of a brand new TEMPEST.This is a Martin Firebrace design.Going thru the gathering of all the rigging and electric components so that when the boat comes out of the mold I can get straight on with playing.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

K4s,
so much to do so little time. The Tempest out of the mold. What are you getting delivered? Hull with deck, keel fin, bulb, rudder? And you fit mast, booms, sails and rigging etc?
Talking to an IOM racer here on the weekend. He has one boat on order, Australian made, on a 12 month waiting list. Paying $AU2,500 for boat. No electrics, or winch etc. He said it was a bargain price for a competition boat.
I'm planning on building this Noux for about $200 (including mold). If I buy the racing rigging price goes up to $500. This is without electrics.
Are IOMs cheaper in NZ? I saw one recently on the NZ version of ebay. Brand new sold for under $400. I'm curious about prices as I sell my boats.

Meanwhile I'm still doing the deck shadow drawings. Still deciding on complexity of curves for easy mold build but with a good look. Will post when I build the frames and start planking deck mold.

Larry L.

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

Approx pricing for the set up I'm getting is $2900 kiwi dollars...new hull,keel with bulb,rudder,rmg winch,deck fittings fitted including recessed jib track for the 3 rigs,rudder push rod fitted.Complete "A" rig minus sails with a 11mm groovy mast.
Near 3000 dollars is a bit extravagent but as the insurance company is replacing my vapour I guess I can learn to live with it:)
I keep a fairly close eye on our Trade Me site(ebay)and haven't seen anything in the 400 dollar range.Most are over the thousand mark if a real IOM,have been a few IOM pretenders around lately for less.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=248828422

RE: IOM Noux Shadows
 

The IOM listed on trade me isn't a pretender but this yacht in it's day won quite a few races through out NZ, i am actually going to meet with Blair tomorrow night and i'll be sure to let him know just how much of a pretender he is!!
He belongs to The gulf Harbour Yacht Club and i'm sure he will be impressed.
anyway enough of that. Larry the idea i had i have attached for you but as you haven't built the deck yet i would stick with your idea of moving the bulkhead foward 20mm. if anything it will give you a rough idea on what we are both trying to say.

Cheers.<br type="_moz" />