Building the BUSA SPAD 13
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Building the BUSA SPAD 13
I was undecided about do a construction thread on my Balsa USA ¼ scale SPAD 13. After reading the instruction manual and studying the plans I began to realize this was going to be a complex project. Hopefully a detail construction thread will help answer some of my questions in building the airpalne. Jim (TMOTH) on RCSCALEBUILDER COM did an excellent thread on finishing the SPAD 13, which I plan to use many of his ideas. I have found some modifications I will make, the size & assembly of the landing gear wire for starters. I have read many favorable comments on how well the SPAD flys and it scale appearance. This was the main reason why I selected the SPAD for my next scale project. I began building the top wing as per instructions. A new building board was required cause the wings are recommended to be built as one unit. The 1/16 balsa ribs surprised me, they don’t seem strong enough for a model of this weight. Also, there were no shear webs between the spars, so I added webs on both front & rear spars. The bottom wing landing gear mounting could use some attention as well. I will welcome all comments, ideas, suggestions, advice and helpful hints during this build.
I plan to build it close to scale with as much scale details as possible. I have done some research (WEB) on the SPAD 13 and the people who flew them. I also bought a couple books form Osprey (SPAD VII & SPAD XII/XIII Aces of World War I) several good color pictures and details of the pilots. I have a color scheme in mind and the American Ace who flew the airplane.
I have completed to first phase of the top wing construction. The bottom wing is next on the building board. Here are some photos of the top wing construction.
Rich
I plan to build it close to scale with as much scale details as possible. I have done some research (WEB) on the SPAD 13 and the people who flew them. I also bought a couple books form Osprey (SPAD VII & SPAD XII/XIII Aces of World War I) several good color pictures and details of the pilots. I have a color scheme in mind and the American Ace who flew the airplane.
I have completed to first phase of the top wing construction. The bottom wing is next on the building board. Here are some photos of the top wing construction.
Rich
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
This is the cover of the book that I decided the color scheme. This is the second SPAD piloted by 1st Lt. Jacques Michael Swaab. He first flew the SPAD VII, SPAD XIII (7), last the SPAD XIII (15). Each of his planes he had his father’s name “MEYER” painted under the cockpit. Number 7 had MEYER II and number 15 had MEYER III and also 10 German crosses painted around shooting star insignia for his 10 kills. I don’t have a color photo of his plane so I plan to use the standard 5-color camouflage scheme, add the stripe on the top wing and add the number 15. Lt. Swaab had a very colorful history and was one of the many Americans who distinguished himself during the Great War.
Rich
Rich
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Hi Rich,
Don't worry about the 1/16" thick ribs. I thought the same thing until I realised there are twice as many as there usually are on a WW1 plane.
One thing that bothered me about the wings was that the rear spar shows through the fabric. Next time I would sand slight scallops between the ribs so the fabric doesn't touch. Since you added webs, that would maintain the strength of the spar.
As you probably know, I had a mid-air with mine last summer and I have to build a new set of wings.[&o]
Jim
Don't worry about the 1/16" thick ribs. I thought the same thing until I realised there are twice as many as there usually are on a WW1 plane.
One thing that bothered me about the wings was that the rear spar shows through the fabric. Next time I would sand slight scallops between the ribs so the fabric doesn't touch. Since you added webs, that would maintain the strength of the spar.
As you probably know, I had a mid-air with mine last summer and I have to build a new set of wings.[&o]
Jim
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Jim, did you paint the under side of you SPAD? I ordered Antique Solartex, planning to just paint the upper part. Also did you anything different with the land gear wire? I am sure I'll have more questions as I go along. I will scallop between the ribs on the top & bottom rear spars. I would like to have the SPAD finished in time for Dayton. I am bring about five other flyers to the Dawn Patrol in Dayton. They are working hard to get their plane finished. Of course Dallas is making the trip.
Thanks for looking in on my build
Rich
Thanks for looking in on my build
Rich
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
ORIGINAL: jwrich
Jim, did you paint the under side of you SPAD? I ordered Antique Solartex, planning to just paint the upper part. Also did you anything different with the land gear wire? I am sure I'll have more questions as I go along. I will scallop between the ribs on the top & bottom rear spars. I would like to have the SPAD finished in time for Dayton. I am bring about five other flyers to the Dawn Patrol in Dayton. They are working hard to get their plane finished. Of course Dallas is making the trip.
Thanks for looking in on my build
Rich
Jim, did you paint the under side of you SPAD? I ordered Antique Solartex, planning to just paint the upper part. Also did you anything different with the land gear wire? I am sure I'll have more questions as I go along. I will scallop between the ribs on the top & bottom rear spars. I would like to have the SPAD finished in time for Dayton. I am bring about five other flyers to the Dawn Patrol in Dayton. They are working hard to get their plane finished. Of course Dallas is making the trip.
Thanks for looking in on my build
Rich
I built the Landing Gear according to the plans and they work pretty well. The only thing I did different was to make the spreader bar airfoil with a wider chord. I just added some wood to the LE and TE.
I painted the underside with a light tannish/cream color that I mixed. I had to paint it because I used Koverall, which is white. The Antique Solartex should look pretty much the same. I used it on my first Nieuport 28 (1/4 scale).
Jim
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
More progress on the wings. I took your advice Jim and added the slight scallops between the ribs. The shear webs on the spars between the ribs adds a lot of strength. Also the paper tube makes it easier pulling the servo leads to the center section. This completes the first phase of the top wing. The bottom wing is straight forward as the top wing with a couple exceptions. The landing gear mounts to the bottom wing and the dowels are in the rear and the wing bolts are in the front leading edge. Just a little more work on the bottom wing for the first phase of construction.
Rich
Rich
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
I have completed the first phase of bottom wing. Not much different from your wing construction other the mounting of the landing gear and the placement of the hold down bolts & dowels. I did add triangle stock to hardwood gear blocks & ribs in the center section. Both wings were rough sanded and glue joints checked again. I was surprised how strong the wings are, all those ribs. These are the first set of wings I built in one piece, most are built in halves then joined in the center section. Both are straight with not warps.
The tail group easy to build, the instruction are easy to follow. The horz. stab & elevators are very strong and light weight. The fin & rudder is no brainier, just take your time and make good glue joints.
The Fuselage is next. There several phases of construction in this section, which I am most concerned about. If you guys have any ideas, or helpful hints, I would appreciate your input.
I didn't post many pictures of the wing & tail group construction, if you have built a bi-plane, you know how it goes together.
The tail group easy to build, the instruction are easy to follow. The horz. stab & elevators are very strong and light weight. The fin & rudder is no brainier, just take your time and make good glue joints.
The Fuselage is next. There several phases of construction in this section, which I am most concerned about. If you guys have any ideas, or helpful hints, I would appreciate your input.
I didn't post many pictures of the wing & tail group construction, if you have built a bi-plane, you know how it goes together.
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Sorry, I haven't updated the thread in a while; we had a death in the family. My wife’s 101-year-old Grandmother passed away shortly after her birthday. She was a neat Lady, very independent, we will miss her.
I have been building. I finished sanding and hinging the rudder & elevators. They look very nice. I began the first phase of the fuselage, most of the ¼” stock was very soft. I found this out after I got all together and just handling it could easily break a stringer. Again following instructions, made this part rather easy. When I build fuselage sides, I build the first side over the plans, put down wax paper and build the second side. If done correctly you will have a mirror image of the fuselage sides. I used thin CA for most of the stringers. I like to reinforce the glue joints in this area when possible. Most of the time I use thin plywood & triangle stock. This time I used tooth picks & thin CA to pin the butt joints. This does not add hardly any weight and it makes a very strong joint.
Here are the pictures of the construction. If any of you have ideas or suggestions for this build, I would like to hear from you.
I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Rich
I have been building. I finished sanding and hinging the rudder & elevators. They look very nice. I began the first phase of the fuselage, most of the ¼” stock was very soft. I found this out after I got all together and just handling it could easily break a stringer. Again following instructions, made this part rather easy. When I build fuselage sides, I build the first side over the plans, put down wax paper and build the second side. If done correctly you will have a mirror image of the fuselage sides. I used thin CA for most of the stringers. I like to reinforce the glue joints in this area when possible. Most of the time I use thin plywood & triangle stock. This time I used tooth picks & thin CA to pin the butt joints. This does not add hardly any weight and it makes a very strong joint.
Here are the pictures of the construction. If any of you have ideas or suggestions for this build, I would like to hear from you.
I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Rich
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Hi Guys, I have been working off & on on the SPAD. The holidays are hard to get anything accomplished, you just work when you get a free moment. I finished the tail-skid mount, it looked a little weak so I added some aircraft plywood and insert a brass tube. The brass tube strengthens the hole. Also, I replaced couple stringer that were soft balsa and added 1/32 ply to strengthen the glue joints. I used a string from the tail post to line up the wing. This model sets the wing incidence different than others I have built. BUSA recommends using an angle finder to establish the incidence of the bottom wing. With every thing set and lined up I drilled the wing bolt holes and installed the dowel rods that hold the wing in place. I like to reinforce the bolt holes with fiberglass tubes (Dave Brown push-rods). I drill out the holes one at a time, line up the tube glue the tube in with epoxy, install the bolt before the epoxy sets up. Then do the other bolt hole after the epoxy sets up. Here are the pictures
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
What a neat build thread. I have been watching this kit and hoped that Santa would bring one for Christmas. But alas I have a small chimney and Santa feels I have enough projects. She.....OOPS, I mean he most likely is correct. Nice work, I will be following this thread and thanks for doing this.
Sorry to hear of your loss, we are never ready to let go, but 101! How wonderful is that to be able to spend so much time with her.
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Signing on. I spent nine months building a BUSA 1/4 scale DR-1 and would love to do the Spad someday. Lots of building isn't it? I think I took almost a month off in the middle of building mine simply because I got tired of building wings....wings...wings...I'd wake up in the middle of the night from wingmares.
I know I have at least $100 worth of glue in that thing.
I did a lot of reinforcements, also. I shear webbed the bottom and center wings, beefed up all the TEs, and lined the inside of the stab and elevator with 1/4 inch spruce, as the original design was way too flimsy. I went to 1/4" wire on the axle, and gusseted the aft fuse at each joint, as it was very flexible.
I put in at least 4 degrees right and downthrust, about 3 degrees positive incidence on the stab, and counter torque weighted the right hand wing tip. (1.20 engine times 2 = 2.4 oz in the tip)
All of this resulted in a very scale flying, well behaved airplane.
Build looks very nice. Keep truckin.
I know I have at least $100 worth of glue in that thing.
I did a lot of reinforcements, also. I shear webbed the bottom and center wings, beefed up all the TEs, and lined the inside of the stab and elevator with 1/4 inch spruce, as the original design was way too flimsy. I went to 1/4" wire on the axle, and gusseted the aft fuse at each joint, as it was very flexible.
I put in at least 4 degrees right and downthrust, about 3 degrees positive incidence on the stab, and counter torque weighted the right hand wing tip. (1.20 engine times 2 = 2.4 oz in the tip)
All of this resulted in a very scale flying, well behaved airplane.
Build looks very nice. Keep truckin.
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Nice build!
This is a question for the scale researchers out there. I have one question as I approach the point where I start painting mine. What is the reason for the different lower cheek cowls? On some photos the aircraft have the screen and on others they have a louvered panel. I have looked at images from early and late model SPAD 13s and it does not seem to matter. Also there are several photos of Rickenbacker's SPADs that have both stiles as well.
HUD.
This is a question for the scale researchers out there. I have one question as I approach the point where I start painting mine. What is the reason for the different lower cheek cowls? On some photos the aircraft have the screen and on others they have a louvered panel. I have looked at images from early and late model SPAD 13s and it does not seem to matter. Also there are several photos of Rickenbacker's SPADs that have both stiles as well.
HUD.
#14
RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
The short answer is engine cooling problems. The SPAD VII AND XIII went through various configurations at both the factory and field level to try and keep the engine from overheating in warm weather and, to a lesser extent, warm enough in cold weather.
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Thank you,
That was what I figured. I looked at the dates on the photos and that seems to correspond. Though there are several exceptions that I guess prove the point.
Hud
That was what I figured. I looked at the dates on the photos and that seems to correspond. Though there are several exceptions that I guess prove the point.
Hud
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Hi, didn't want to butt in on your thread just thought I would send a coupld of pics of mine. Just finished her up and balanced her. Haven't had a chance to fly her yet.. It was a long build but well worth it... Mike
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
I ran the numbers through Thrusthp, using Horizon's statement that the 38 will turn an 18x10 APC at 7300.
These were entered at 7300 rpm:
18x10 APC: 69mph, 16+ pounds static thrust
19x8 Wood: 55mph, 19+ pounds static thrust
The 20x6, even allowing for the engine to turn faster because it represents a lighter load, is probably not going to provide sufficient airspeed for fun flying. (43 mph at 7300rpm) You do get gobs of thrust, though, over 25 pounds.
The Spad's wing loading is north of 23 oz per square foot, giving a stalling speed of somewhere around the same, 23 mph. For fun flying, it's advisable to have max speed at least twice the stalling speed, so you can throttle back a little and cruise around. If it was me, I'd go for the 19x8 prop.
When I propped my DR-1, which stalls much slower due to lighter wing loading, (about 15-18 mph) I went for one that gave me about 40 mph top speed. (1.20AX two stroke, 17x5 Zinger) Seems to work good.
The source for this is an old RCM article, which has served me well over the years. Trying to upload it, but the system is not cooperating.
These were entered at 7300 rpm:
18x10 APC: 69mph, 16+ pounds static thrust
19x8 Wood: 55mph, 19+ pounds static thrust
The 20x6, even allowing for the engine to turn faster because it represents a lighter load, is probably not going to provide sufficient airspeed for fun flying. (43 mph at 7300rpm) You do get gobs of thrust, though, over 25 pounds.
The Spad's wing loading is north of 23 oz per square foot, giving a stalling speed of somewhere around the same, 23 mph. For fun flying, it's advisable to have max speed at least twice the stalling speed, so you can throttle back a little and cruise around. If it was me, I'd go for the 19x8 prop.
When I propped my DR-1, which stalls much slower due to lighter wing loading, (about 15-18 mph) I went for one that gave me about 40 mph top speed. (1.20AX two stroke, 17x5 Zinger) Seems to work good.
The source for this is an old RCM article, which has served me well over the years. Trying to upload it, but the system is not cooperating.
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Mike, do you have any pictures of your engine installation? I have a Zenoah 38 and a Fiji 50, both will fit but the Fiji will be tight. I am concerned about the carb. being so close the fuselage side. It would help if you could post some pictures.
Thanks
Rich
Thanks
Rich
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
JWRICH... took a couple of pics of the engine setup. I put a velocity stack on the engine and it needed a hole in the fuse where I ran the choke linkage out. If you don't run the stack there is plenty of clearance. You can see in the pics there are wood compartments on each side in the engine compartment holding the battery packs. Will have to set up on two switches to charge each battery without taking the nose off. Hope pics help...
Mike
Mike
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RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
ime for an update on the progress of the SPAD 13. I have been working on it, but with holidays, family visits and now the very cold weather has limited my time in the shop. Plus I am at stage in the build process I find very trying. Building the cabane struts, interplane struts and setting the wing incidence. I followed the manuals recommendation to use an angle finder to set the incidence for for both wings. It worked out as instructed, but it seemed like going to Tulsa to just get across the street. Using an incidence meter, I always used, would worked as well and the results would have been the same. Both wings have the manuals recommended incidences. Bending and soldering wire for the cabanes & struts is time consuming process. Every thing has to be jigged, wire wrapped and set before beginning the soldering. All the solder joints look good, only the landing gear legs to do. Here are the pictures
Till next time.
Rich
Till next time.
Rich