A gas tank that works...
12-25-2010, 12:24 AM
#1
Thread Starter
A gas tank that works...
Won't somebody PLEASE make a gas tank that isn't the most poorly made part of the entire model!!! I am so sick and tired of these crummy tanks with their wonky plumbing which 9 times out of 10 turns out to be why the engine doesn't start. I'd quite happily pay $50 for a tank that actually functions and keeps on functioning!
In this age of computer radios and digital servos, why oh why do we have to put up with 1930's technology tanks?
In this age of computer radios and digital servos, why oh why do we have to put up with 1930's technology tanks?
12-25-2010, 06:19 PM
#3
RE: A gas tank that works...
I agree with Summerwind. I have had issues with tanks from time to time. I remember when I started flying RC reading a beginner RC book. The main comment about fuel tanks was how simple they are. However if you make one or two simple errors in how you set it up you will have all sorts of problems.
John B.
John B.
12-25-2010, 07:49 PM
#4
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Strathcona county,
AB, CANADA
Posts: 5,394
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: A gas tank that works...
tanks?? the least troublesome part of the whole model! Check it for leaks when it is brand new (with all the hardware installed) then change the tubing every couple of years......
Gas or GLow giving you problems??
Gas or GLow giving you problems??
12-25-2010, 09:19 PM
#5
RE: A gas tank that works...
The tank is at the top of the list for reasons why engines run poorly. Built properly initially is the most importat. THen making sure they do not to start to move around. For gas the Bennet built tanks are the best system I have seen. This could be used for glow as well. I have always found the stoppers to be a pain.
12-25-2010, 09:27 PM
#6
RE: A gas tank that works...
What kills mine more than anything is fuel gumming up stuff. After the methanol has evaporated, the oil starts to gum. Like batteries, the planes that get flown the most have the least amount of problems. Right now I have too many planes not getting flown. Sometimes storing them on the nose can cause tank problems too; not going to tell you how many I have like that right now.
12-25-2010, 10:14 PM
#7
Thread Starter
RE: A gas tank that works...
Yeah, it's the stopper...and the clunk lines that drop off...and the tubing that gets bent...and the pinches in the fuel line...and.... Let's just say that "plumbing" a model is my absolutely LEAST favorite part of the whole hobby.
12-26-2010, 12:27 AM
#8
RE: A gas tank that works...
Here is the solution to the stopper. Nalgene bottles. I think a screw on cap is the only way to go. They make lots of sizes and shapes. Just do a google search for nalgene. Here are the Bennett tanks. The hardware is of importance as well. These tanks work perfecdtly and it is easy yo get inside to replace lines. http://www.bennettbuilt.com/page5.htm
12-26-2010, 04:17 AM
#9
My Feedback: (2)
RE: A gas tank that works...
As for fuel tubing falling off inside (or even outside) the tank, you could try a fuel barb from Dubro:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWH38&P=7 for 1/8" tube. And they have another size for 5/32" tubing.
I've had fuel lines fall off inside the tank, usually because I was too stingy with the length of hard brass tubing that I left inside the tank (i.e., not enough grip surface). But, like most everyone else, I have to say that I've had overall good luck with my tanks.
One painful lesson that I learned was not to use an old tank. I had let some fuel dry up in it and 'thought' that I had cleaned it out sufficiently before pressing it back into service - I hadn't, as it turns out. Some kind of residue was fouling up my engine. Replacing the tank fixed that. Now, when I retire a tank to the junk box, I flush it out with denatured alcohol and let it air dry for a day first.
Another hard lesson for me to learn was when the silicone fuel lines kept splitting inside the tank. Mea Culpa again for not deburring the ends of the tubing after I had cut them. The razor-sharp surface cut through the tubing just enough to cause an air leak. Gave me no end of fits.
These are just a couple of things I've found out about my own fuel system plumbing faux pas's. I didn't know if this would be of any help to you...
Bob
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWH38&P=7 for 1/8" tube. And they have another size for 5/32" tubing.
I've had fuel lines fall off inside the tank, usually because I was too stingy with the length of hard brass tubing that I left inside the tank (i.e., not enough grip surface). But, like most everyone else, I have to say that I've had overall good luck with my tanks.
One painful lesson that I learned was not to use an old tank. I had let some fuel dry up in it and 'thought' that I had cleaned it out sufficiently before pressing it back into service - I hadn't, as it turns out. Some kind of residue was fouling up my engine. Replacing the tank fixed that. Now, when I retire a tank to the junk box, I flush it out with denatured alcohol and let it air dry for a day first.
Another hard lesson for me to learn was when the silicone fuel lines kept splitting inside the tank. Mea Culpa again for not deburring the ends of the tubing after I had cut them. The razor-sharp surface cut through the tubing just enough to cause an air leak. Gave me no end of fits.
These are just a couple of things I've found out about my own fuel system plumbing faux pas's. I didn't know if this would be of any help to you...
Bob
12-26-2010, 06:01 AM
#10
Thread Starter
RE: A gas tank that works...
Ultimately, I know all my problems are my own fault. It would just be nice if tanks were a bit more idiot proof. Seems to me that tank manufacturers are particularly stingy when it comes to tubing, both metal and silicon.
12-26-2010, 10:18 AM
#12
RE: A gas tank that works...
ORIGINAL: summerwind
Don,
you still haven't given any info on ''tank brand, ''engine type'' and what aircraft.
it was mentioned earlier that fuel tanks are on the top of the list for engine running problems........never heard that before though, and it usually has something to do with the tuner.
BUT, and i say this with a really big BUT, i recently setup a dual tank fuel system for the Laser 200V powered N28 i was building and found out (and so did Sullivan) that the stoppers are an 1/8'' smaller diameter than the tank hole they go into. Sullivan replaced the tanks and the new ones were tighter, but would still pull out.........a few guys i know have found out the hard way that this was happening to them too.............Bye-Bye Sullivan.
the Tettra tanks are the best as they use a stopper that fits into the hole and has a clamp that goes around the rubber to seal them perfectly. the clunk line is some of the best i've ever seen. great for Four stroke setups.
i know you most likely don't use 2 strokes, but Jett BubbleJet tanks are absolutely flawless for 2 stroke applications.
for Gas, the Dubro with the gas stopper has to be the easiest and most reliable tank in production, and are available in 2 ounce increments from 2 ounce to 16 and then get bigger all the way up to 100 ounce. using the ''Vitube'' tubing for the clunk line is standard for those in the know and is again a flawless setup.
give some info and this will be easy to guide you thru just as you take the time to guide us thru things we need help with
ORIGINAL: abufletcher
Ultimately, I know all my problems are my own fault. It would just be nice if tanks were a bit more idiot proof. Seems to me that tank manufacturers are particularly stingy when it comes to tubing, both metal and silicon.
Ultimately, I know all my problems are my own fault. It would just be nice if tanks were a bit more idiot proof. Seems to me that tank manufacturers are particularly stingy when it comes to tubing, both metal and silicon.
you still haven't given any info on ''tank brand, ''engine type'' and what aircraft.
it was mentioned earlier that fuel tanks are on the top of the list for engine running problems........never heard that before though, and it usually has something to do with the tuner.
BUT, and i say this with a really big BUT, i recently setup a dual tank fuel system for the Laser 200V powered N28 i was building and found out (and so did Sullivan) that the stoppers are an 1/8'' smaller diameter than the tank hole they go into. Sullivan replaced the tanks and the new ones were tighter, but would still pull out.........a few guys i know have found out the hard way that this was happening to them too.............Bye-Bye Sullivan.
the Tettra tanks are the best as they use a stopper that fits into the hole and has a clamp that goes around the rubber to seal them perfectly. the clunk line is some of the best i've ever seen. great for Four stroke setups.
i know you most likely don't use 2 strokes, but Jett BubbleJet tanks are absolutely flawless for 2 stroke applications.
for Gas, the Dubro with the gas stopper has to be the easiest and most reliable tank in production, and are available in 2 ounce increments from 2 ounce to 16 and then get bigger all the way up to 100 ounce. using the ''Vitube'' tubing for the clunk line is standard for those in the know and is again a flawless setup.
give some info and this will be easy to guide you thru just as you take the time to guide us thru things we need help with
The "bubbless" fuel tanks are not designed for much capacity. While they do work very well, are really intended for racing aircraft and must be filled with a syringe. All of the air must be evacuated before the fuel is put in. If more than 6 oz is needed, a very large syringe will be needed. Larger than the one Jett sells just for this purpose.
Look into using the screw on caps. I am sure all of the Bennett hardware can be gotten from McMaster Carr. My days of messing with stoppers are over.
Another trick to keeping fuel line on- if no barbs are handy (and they work great by the way) Just put a couple of revolutions of small wire around the end of your tubing and float some solder on it. This will give a little bump or ridge. Then use zip small zip ties to keep it secure. THis is mandatory with gasoline. That stuff is slippery. Gasoline fuel systems have given me more problems than glow. Gasoline seems to be much trickier to deal with. The alcohol in the gas these days does not like the "Gas" stoppers. I have not been able to keep any of them in place for any length of time. Dubro included.
12-26-2010, 01:32 PM
#14
Thread Starter
RE: A gas tank that works...
It's not any particular brand...they are all equally annoying. What prompted this rant however was my inability to start my engine on Xmas morning. There I was in the freezing snow, flipping the flippin' prop, swapping the plug, doing all those things we do when our engines won't start. And in the end, just packing up and coming home.
At home, I removed the tank, figuring I'd start from scratch. It was immediately obvious that the take tubes were all messed up. Crushed. Bent. So I took out the stopper (which required some major effort), replaced the tubes, and then found that there was just no way in hell that the stopper was going to go back into the tank.
I think VG's right, screw on caps are the way to go.
What prompted this rant however was my inability to start my engine on Xmas morning. There I was in the freezing snow, flipping the flippin' prop, swapping the plug, doing all those things we do when our engines won't start. And in the end, just packing up and coming home.At home, I removed the tank, figuring I'd start from scratch. It was immediately obvious that the take tubes were all messed up. Crushed. Bent. So I took out the stopper (which required some major effort), replaced the tubes, and then found that there was just no way in hell that the stopper was going to go back into the tank.
I think VG's right, screw on caps are the way to go.
12-26-2010, 02:46 PM
#16
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: A gas tank that works...
i quit buying tanks from the makers. I use drinking water bottles and a dubro stopper. 16 or 20 oz bottle they fit in perfect. cut out the center of the bottle cap so it clears the lines and simply tighten the cap.It works great. Gas does not affect the water bottle. and they do not leak. cool thing is that the water bottle being crystal clear you can inspect the line and clunk inside the tank.
You dont need barbs....just build up the ends of the brass tube with a glob of solder for the first 1/4" and clamp the the line on. makes the line and clamp have to climb it to come off...wont happen.
Use a tubing cutter instead of a saw on the metal lines when ya cut em, rolls the edge in and the sharp end cuts dont split the draw tube.
You dont need barbs....just build up the ends of the brass tube with a glob of solder for the first 1/4" and clamp the the line on. makes the line and clamp have to climb it to come off...wont happen.
Use a tubing cutter instead of a saw on the metal lines when ya cut em, rolls the edge in and the sharp end cuts dont split the draw tube.
12-26-2010, 02:50 PM
#17
RE: A gas tank that works...
Abu, I am with you on the irritating tank designs. I have always hated them and wonder why they didn't provide prebent tubes for the tank interior. It would be SO easy in production and they could jig bend them perfectly for just pennies, saving a ton of hastle for the customer.
Today I spent the afternoon pulling a tank that had started leaking after a few years of working okay. The cap was loose and simply needed retightening. In the meantime, I lost a couple days of flying and have a fuel soaked fuselage to worry about.
Today I spent the afternoon pulling a tank that had started leaking after a few years of working okay. The cap was loose and simply needed retightening. In the meantime, I lost a couple days of flying and have a fuel soaked fuselage to worry about.
12-26-2010, 02:56 PM
#18
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: A gas tank that works...
By far the most irritating thing about a new tank is trying to get the guts out of the tank.....WTH do they use the inside of the tank to store the fuel line and tubes? seems to be that retrieveing em from inside the tank so you can assemble them is the longest part of the process!!!!
12-26-2010, 02:57 PM
#19
My Feedback: (2)
RE: A gas tank that works...
One of the items that helped me was a Dubro Tubing Bender - again, it comes in two sizes, for 1/8" and for 5/32" tubing. I'm sure that you know about it, I just wanted to give it a thumbs up if you haven't tried it:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE228&P=7
I like the wire wrapping idea to secure the silicone tubing. Another thing that you can try is to put a small piece of tubing , about 3/16" long, over your tubing/brass tube junction the same way that we put it on a clevis to keep it from snapping open. That seems to help. But the tubing bender is nice because it makes smooth bends, no kinks.
I hear you on not being able to get the stopper back in - I keep a couple of spare stopper kits around just for that reason.
Oh yeah, something else just occurred to me. Instead of blowing your cheeks out trying to 'pressurize' your tank to test it in a tank of water, try using a fuel bulb if you have one lying around. It'll save your cheeks
Someone gave me this tip for cold weather starting years ago - put a few drops of lighter fluid down the intake. Not much, just a few drops. It seems to help with the starting.
I hope that some of this is helpful,
Bob
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE228&P=7
I like the wire wrapping idea to secure the silicone tubing. Another thing that you can try is to put a small piece of tubing , about 3/16" long, over your tubing/brass tube junction the same way that we put it on a clevis to keep it from snapping open. That seems to help. But the tubing bender is nice because it makes smooth bends, no kinks.
I hear you on not being able to get the stopper back in - I keep a couple of spare stopper kits around just for that reason.
Oh yeah, something else just occurred to me. Instead of blowing your cheeks out trying to 'pressurize' your tank to test it in a tank of water, try using a fuel bulb if you have one lying around. It'll save your cheeks
Someone gave me this tip for cold weather starting years ago - put a few drops of lighter fluid down the intake. Not much, just a few drops. It seems to help with the starting.
I hope that some of this is helpful,
Bob
12-26-2010, 04:10 PM
#20
RE: A gas tank that works...
"Oh yeah, something else just occurred to me. Instead of blowing your cheeks out trying to 'pressurize' your tank to test it in a tank of water, try using a fuel bulb if you have one lying around. It'll save your cheek"
Another thing you don't want to do is to blow into the fuel feed tube (with the other tube blocked off) when the clunk might be resting in a little residual fuel. When you stop blowing, the built up pressure in the tank pushes the fuel up the tube and into your mouth!
Another thing you don't want to do is to blow into the fuel feed tube (with the other tube blocked off) when the clunk might be resting in a little residual fuel. When you stop blowing, the built up pressure in the tank pushes the fuel up the tube and into your mouth!
12-26-2010, 06:54 PM
#23
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Blossvale,
NY
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: A gas tank that works...
I'm having with my clunk not falling to the top of the tank when I go inverted, Its a gas engine and I'm looking for a gas line that is more flexable, any ideas? Jeff
12-26-2010, 07:13 PM
#24
RE: A gas tank that works...
ORIGINAL: jradley
I'm having with my clunk not falling to the top of the tank when I go inverted, Its a gas engine and I'm looking for a gas line that is more flexable, any ideas? Jeff
I'm having with my clunk not falling to the top of the tank when I go inverted, Its a gas engine and I'm looking for a gas line that is more flexable, any ideas? Jeff
http://www.shop.redaerorc.com/Vitube...3.qscstrfrnt04
12-26-2010, 08:02 PM
#25
My Feedback: (205)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: hillsdale,
MI
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: A gas tank that works...
Gas line inside a small size tank for say a 20cc gasser. where one would use a 6 or 8 ounce tank. Use 3/32" fuel line in lieu of 1/8", tygon fuel line that is. You don't need 1/8" until after a 50cc gasser. If you don't believe me, just ask Antique in the gas forums. One can learn alot from that gentleman..