Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
01-12-2011, 12:16 PM
#1
Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Hello - I'm finally making progress completing my Antic-Bipe redesigned to look a little like a JN-4, and have a rib stitching question. I'm just about done covering the model with Solartex Antique (very happy with it so far) and will be doing the white glue applied with a T-pin cut the the right size to simulate the stitches, and then will apply torn solartex strips on top to simulate the reinforcement strips. Appreciate any comments on this approach, but my real question is where do I begin and end the stitching and reinforcement strips? I've looked at samples and some strips look to extend all the way to the LE and TE, while others just seem to disappear.
Another question I have is regarding the reinforcement strips around the edges of each flying and control surface. A master builder in our club said that this should be done as well but I can't see this detail in pictures I find and I'm also hesitant to do this because I know it's going to be tough to keep it smooth and even around the curves. If I do rib stitching do I also need to do reinformecent strips around the edges of all flying and control surfaces? If so, how far on top and on bottom does it extend? I'm going for sport scale here so I'm hoping rib stitching alone will be enough, but it needs to look somewhat legitimate.
Thanks
Steve
Another question I have is regarding the reinforcement strips around the edges of each flying and control surface. A master builder in our club said that this should be done as well but I can't see this detail in pictures I find and I'm also hesitant to do this because I know it's going to be tough to keep it smooth and even around the curves. If I do rib stitching do I also need to do reinformecent strips around the edges of all flying and control surfaces? If so, how far on top and on bottom does it extend? I'm going for sport scale here so I'm hoping rib stitching alone will be enough, but it needs to look somewhat legitimate.
Thanks
Steve
01-12-2011, 02:10 PM
#4
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Steve:
To begin with we need to define a few of the tapes. The tapes over the stitches are called finishing tapes. There are "Reinforcing" tapes under the finishing tapes. In order to protect the fabric or keep it from ripping from the stitch, there is a reinforcing tape applied over the rib before the stitching begins. Then, the fabric is mechanically attached by stitching around the rib. The reinforcing tape is the width of the rib and the finishing tape is 2 inches wide. By the way the finishing tapes are erroneously called "Pinking Tapes". The tapes are already "Pinked" however on the Jenny they were NOT. We generally use the Spirit of St Louis as the marker for when tapes were pinked. Check it out in the Smithsonian museum.
As for when or where the stitches begin, they start at one half the distance between the stitches from the leading edge. IE, if the stitches were 2 inches apart for instance, the first stitch is one inch from where the solid portion of the leading edge ends and the open rib bay begins. These examples are of course full scale examples. Reduce or divide them appropriately for the size or scale of the model. Also, the distance varies whether the rib is in the slipstream of the prop or not. In the slipstream they are a little closer together.
The finishing tape in fact does go around all control surfaces and over any raw edges of fabric.
After having said all that...it's sport scale so who cares? It's a hobby so have fun above all.
To begin with we need to define a few of the tapes. The tapes over the stitches are called finishing tapes. There are "Reinforcing" tapes under the finishing tapes. In order to protect the fabric or keep it from ripping from the stitch, there is a reinforcing tape applied over the rib before the stitching begins. Then, the fabric is mechanically attached by stitching around the rib. The reinforcing tape is the width of the rib and the finishing tape is 2 inches wide. By the way the finishing tapes are erroneously called "Pinking Tapes". The tapes are already "Pinked" however on the Jenny they were NOT. We generally use the Spirit of St Louis as the marker for when tapes were pinked. Check it out in the Smithsonian museum.
As for when or where the stitches begin, they start at one half the distance between the stitches from the leading edge. IE, if the stitches were 2 inches apart for instance, the first stitch is one inch from where the solid portion of the leading edge ends and the open rib bay begins. These examples are of course full scale examples. Reduce or divide them appropriately for the size or scale of the model. Also, the distance varies whether the rib is in the slipstream of the prop or not. In the slipstream they are a little closer together.
The finishing tape in fact does go around all control surfaces and over any raw edges of fabric.
After having said all that...it's sport scale so who cares? It's a hobby so have fun above all.
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oldbikebuilder (07-17-2023)
01-12-2011, 10:47 PM
#5
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Compared with doing the rib stitching, putting on the edge tapes is a piece of cake. BTW, you may find that the "line of white glue" technique is just too indistinct beneath the tapes. It ends up just looking like a bump. Two other techniques are to glue down individual bits of "brush bristle" (for example) and then there's the process of making "strips of rib stitching" that are then glued over the ribs (and then covered with tapes). Which one is more work is probably a matter of preference.
Then of course, you can actually DO all the stitching up and down through the wing, as I've done here. Note that the stitching was particularly "bumpy and obvious" on the Sopwiths. On many other aircraft it's much more subtle.
For a "sport scale" model, many builders just iron down a strip of solartex and that's it. This breaks up the surface and gives the impression of stitching (particularly when dirtied up a bit). What you've got going there with your "Antic Jenny" is a sort of Precision Fantasy Scale. And in that sense, you probably want to do one of the "full" rib stitching techniques mentioned above.
Then of course, you can actually DO all the stitching up and down through the wing, as I've done here. Note that the stitching was particularly "bumpy and obvious" on the Sopwiths. On many other aircraft it's much more subtle.
For a "sport scale" model, many builders just iron down a strip of solartex and that's it. This breaks up the surface and gives the impression of stitching (particularly when dirtied up a bit). What you've got going there with your "Antic Jenny" is a sort of Precision Fantasy Scale. And in that sense, you probably want to do one of the "full" rib stitching techniques mentioned above.
01-13-2011, 03:16 AM
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RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
http://home.cablerocket.com/~scaleribstitch/
I use a product from Scaleribstitch. It is a tape with the "string" already applied. You cut it to size, lay it on, then put the finish cap strip over it. I have tried all methods and now only use this. The purists will put this down, but it sure beats laying down hundreds of glue strips. Remember, you sre just creating an Illusion. If you go to a local airport and look at rag wings, you will see that stitching is not very prominent. Modelers tend to over do it. Rib stitching on WW1 aeroplanes was generally 3", and the tapes were not pinked. The spacing used today is different. And there were finish tapes on anything that might wear through the covering. This includes all fuse stringers and corners, around any openning, or hatch.
I use a product from Scaleribstitch. It is a tape with the "string" already applied. You cut it to size, lay it on, then put the finish cap strip over it. I have tried all methods and now only use this. The purists will put this down, but it sure beats laying down hundreds of glue strips. Remember, you sre just creating an Illusion. If you go to a local airport and look at rag wings, you will see that stitching is not very prominent. Modelers tend to over do it. Rib stitching on WW1 aeroplanes was generally 3", and the tapes were not pinked. The spacing used today is different. And there were finish tapes on anything that might wear through the covering. This includes all fuse stringers and corners, around any openning, or hatch.
01-13-2011, 03:34 AM
#7
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Steve, how quickly can they get out orders? And is one "packet" ($8.00 for the 1/6 scale stuff) enough for one biplane? I don't quite get what comes in a package. Is it 2 2"x36" strips? Then the modeler would cut those 2" strips into, say, 1/8" inch strips? This might be just the sort of thing to try out on my SE5a - IF THEY CAN SHIP QUICKLY.
01-13-2011, 04:16 AM
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RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
ORIGINAL: abufletcher
I don't quite get what comes in a package. Is it 2 2''x36'' strips? Then the modeler would cut those 2'' strips into, say, 1/8'' inch strips?
I don't quite get what comes in a package. Is it 2 2''x36'' strips? Then the modeler would cut those 2'' strips into, say, 1/8'' inch strips?
It looks like 2 strips and that you have to cut the strips by yourself to the desired width.
How to Calculate Amount Required
To calculate the amount of rib stitch tape required you will need to know the total length of wing and tail cord inches.
1. Count your wing ribs and tail ribs that will be rib stitched and double that amount since both sides will be rib stitched
Sample: 24 wing ribs x 2 = 48.
2. Multiply your cord length by your total doubled rib quantity.
Sample: 18" rib cord x 48 = 864 ".
3. Take the measurement of the rib stitch width you will use and divide that into 2 inches to find the amount of strips you will get from one 2" x 36" rib stitch tape strip. Sample" 2" divided by .125 (1/8") = 16ea 1/8" x 36" strips.
4. To find the total amount of 1/8" wide strips you will need, divide the number of strips you got from one 2" x 36" strip into your total cord inches, then divide that by 36". Sample: 864" divided by 16ea 1/8" strips = 54. 54 divided by 36" (rib stitch tape length) = 1.5. You would need 1.5ea (2" x 36") rib stitch tape strips.
To calculate the amount of rib stitch tape required you will need to know the total length of wing and tail cord inches.
1. Count your wing ribs and tail ribs that will be rib stitched and double that amount since both sides will be rib stitched
Sample: 24 wing ribs x 2 = 48.
2. Multiply your cord length by your total doubled rib quantity.
Sample: 18" rib cord x 48 = 864 ".
3. Take the measurement of the rib stitch width you will use and divide that into 2 inches to find the amount of strips you will get from one 2" x 36" rib stitch tape strip. Sample" 2" divided by .125 (1/8") = 16ea 1/8" x 36" strips.
4. To find the total amount of 1/8" wide strips you will need, divide the number of strips you got from one 2" x 36" strip into your total cord inches, then divide that by 36". Sample: 864" divided by 16ea 1/8" strips = 54. 54 divided by 36" (rib stitch tape length) = 1.5. You would need 1.5ea (2" x 36") rib stitch tape strips.
01-13-2011, 05:43 AM
#9
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Ah. Math. I remember that. [
]
*****
OK. Here goes for my CDScaleDesigns 1/6 scale SE5a:
1. Count your wing ribs and tail ribs that will be rib stitched and double that amount since both sides will be rib stitched
48 ribs x 2 = 96.
2. Multiply your cord length by your total doubled rib quantity.
10" rib cord x 96 = 960".
3. Take the measurement of the rib stitch width you will use and divide that into 2 inches to find the amount of strips you will get from one 2" x 36" rib stitch tape strip.
.125 (1/8") = 16ea 1/8" x 36" strips.
4. To find the total amount of 1/8" wide strips you will need, divide the number of strips you got from one 2" x 36" strip into your total cord inches, then divide that by 36".
960" divided by 16ea 1/8" strips = 60. 60 divided by 36" (rib stitch tape length) = 1.6. You would need 1.6ea (2" x 36") rib stitch tape strips.
So it looks like ONE PACKAGE (2 strips) would do it. For $8 bucks that seems like a bargain. But again how quickly can he ship orders?
]*****
OK. Here goes for my CDScaleDesigns 1/6 scale SE5a:
1. Count your wing ribs and tail ribs that will be rib stitched and double that amount since both sides will be rib stitched
48 ribs x 2 = 96.
2. Multiply your cord length by your total doubled rib quantity.
10" rib cord x 96 = 960".
3. Take the measurement of the rib stitch width you will use and divide that into 2 inches to find the amount of strips you will get from one 2" x 36" rib stitch tape strip.
.125 (1/8") = 16ea 1/8" x 36" strips.
4. To find the total amount of 1/8" wide strips you will need, divide the number of strips you got from one 2" x 36" strip into your total cord inches, then divide that by 36".
960" divided by 16ea 1/8" strips = 60. 60 divided by 36" (rib stitch tape length) = 1.6. You would need 1.6ea (2" x 36") rib stitch tape strips.
So it looks like ONE PACKAGE (2 strips) would do it. For $8 bucks that seems like a bargain. But again how quickly can he ship orders?
01-13-2011, 05:50 AM
#10
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RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Yes for 1/6 scale you get 2 36" long strips 2" wide. You had better call oe=r email them, I think they have discontinued the 1/6 scale stitch. It takes about 2 weeks to get product here, but most of that time is getting through Canadien customs. 2 pieces would be enough to do a 1/6 scale model. You would cut the strips into 1/8" or less width. I use a rotary cutter and straight edge with a width gauge from scrap wood.
steve
steve
01-13-2011, 06:51 AM
#11
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Great info, thanks everyone. I'm having fun learning this scale stuff, but I cought the bug of "I can make it better if I just ..." Now I see why a scale model is never really completed. So, let me summarize how I understand the scale process to be and please let me know if I'm off on anything. Once the plane is covered, put the reinforcing tape the width of each rib over each rib that will be stiched. Then apply a very subtle stitch using one of the methods, beginning the stich at half the stich spacing from the leading edge. Halve the stitch spacing in the prop wash area. Then the Finishing tape goes over top of all this and extends all the way from the LE to the TE. Finishing tape is also pplied over all edges of each surface and anywhere there may be surface to surface contact (such as a cabane mount area). Does this sound about right? Makes sense to me know and I do like how the finishing tape around the edges looks.
Couple questoins though:
1. In abufletcher's picture, the finishing tape around the edges only is applied to the LE and TE, not to the wing tip. Is this scale or was this done because it is tought to get the material to lay flat when going around a curved surface? I really would like to do this finishing tape around the edges but with so many edges on this Jenny-Antic being curved, I am concerned that I will not get the finishing tape to lay flat. I guess the smaller the width of the tape the easier it would be to lay flat.
2. Does the finishing tape over the rib stiching really extend all the way to the LE and TE, or does it stop short?
3. For the finishing tape over those areas where there is surface to surface contact, what shape should the tape be (e.g. square, triangle, etc). I saw a picture where they used triangles under the cabane mounting areas.
4. Does the fuse get finishing tape over the edges?
5. Does stitch spacing on the tail surfaces match the spacing used on the wings, or are there only a few stiches per rib on the tail surfaces?
6. You may have noticed in my picture that I stained the wood surfaces. It looked great without the covering, but since the solartex is semi-transparent, the color of the wood where the covering contacts looks very uneven - some areas where the covering is really ironed down look dark while other areas look fairly light. It's a little distracting to the eye and all this finishing tape will cover it up, but any thoughts? I do not plan to paint the covering because I would like to keep it as transparent as possible so shadows of the inner structure show through.
I have one more wing panel to cover tonight then I'm ready to begin with these fun embellishments!
Thanks
Steve
Couple questoins though:
1. In abufletcher's picture, the finishing tape around the edges only is applied to the LE and TE, not to the wing tip. Is this scale or was this done because it is tought to get the material to lay flat when going around a curved surface? I really would like to do this finishing tape around the edges but with so many edges on this Jenny-Antic being curved, I am concerned that I will not get the finishing tape to lay flat. I guess the smaller the width of the tape the easier it would be to lay flat.
2. Does the finishing tape over the rib stiching really extend all the way to the LE and TE, or does it stop short?
3. For the finishing tape over those areas where there is surface to surface contact, what shape should the tape be (e.g. square, triangle, etc). I saw a picture where they used triangles under the cabane mounting areas.
4. Does the fuse get finishing tape over the edges?
5. Does stitch spacing on the tail surfaces match the spacing used on the wings, or are there only a few stiches per rib on the tail surfaces?
6. You may have noticed in my picture that I stained the wood surfaces. It looked great without the covering, but since the solartex is semi-transparent, the color of the wood where the covering contacts looks very uneven - some areas where the covering is really ironed down look dark while other areas look fairly light. It's a little distracting to the eye and all this finishing tape will cover it up, but any thoughts? I do not plan to paint the covering because I would like to keep it as transparent as possible so shadows of the inner structure show through.
I have one more wing panel to cover tonight then I'm ready to begin with these fun embellishments!
Thanks
Steve
01-13-2011, 07:28 AM
#13
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RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
ORIGINAL: insalacosm
Great info, thanks everyone. I'm having fun learning this scale stuff, but I cought the bug of ''I can make it better if I just ...'' Now I see why a scale model is never really completed. So, let me summarize how I understand the scale process to be and please let me know if I'm off on anything. Once the plane is covered, put the reinforcing tape the width of each rib over each rib that will be stiched. Then apply a very subtle stitch using one of the methods, beginning the stich at half the stich spacing from the leading edge. Halve the stitch spacing in the prop wash area. Then the Finishing tape goes over top of all this and extends all the way from the LE to the TE. Finishing tape is also pplied over all edges of each surface and anywhere there may be surface to surface contact (such as a cabane mount area). Does this sound about right? Makes sense to me know and I do like how the finishing tape around the edges looks.
Couple questoins though:
1. In abufletcher's picture, the finishing tape around the edges only is applied to the LE and TE, not to the wing tip. Is this scale or was this done because it is tought to get the material to lay flat when going around a curved surface? I really would like to do this finishing tape around the edges but with so many edges on this Jenny-Antic being curved, I am concerned that I will not get the finishing tape to lay flat. I guess the smaller the width of the tape the easier it would be to lay flat. Yes it goes around the wingtips. You may have to notch the covering to get it to lay down. Look close at your pictures, you can see this
2. Does the finishing tape over the rib stiching really extend all the way to the LE and TE, or does it stop short?, yes, and the le tape covers this tape at the end
3. For the finishing tape over those areas where there is surface to surface contact, what shape should the tape be (e.g. square, triangle, etc). I saw a picture where they used triangles under the cabane mounting areas. It varies, about anything goes
4. Does the fuse get finishing tape over the edges? on the real ones yes, it's up to you on the model
5. Does stitch spacing on the tail surfaces match the spacing used on the wings, or are there only a few stiches per rib on the tail surfaces? same as wing, W1 was 3", adjust to suit your scale
6. You may have noticed in my picture that I stained the wood surfaces. It looked great without the covering, but since the solartex is semi-transparent, the color of the wood where the covering contacts looks very uneven - some areas where the covering is really ironed down look dark while other areas look fairly light. It's a little distracting to the eye and all this finishing tape will cover it up, but any thoughts? I do not plan to paint the covering because I would like to keep it as transparent as possible so shadows of the inner structure show through. it coverd up the same detail on the real one, just depends on what effect you are shooting for
I have one more wing panel to cover tonight then I'm ready to begin with these fun embellishments!
Thanks
Steve
Great info, thanks everyone. I'm having fun learning this scale stuff, but I cought the bug of ''I can make it better if I just ...'' Now I see why a scale model is never really completed. So, let me summarize how I understand the scale process to be and please let me know if I'm off on anything. Once the plane is covered, put the reinforcing tape the width of each rib over each rib that will be stiched. Then apply a very subtle stitch using one of the methods, beginning the stich at half the stich spacing from the leading edge. Halve the stitch spacing in the prop wash area. Then the Finishing tape goes over top of all this and extends all the way from the LE to the TE. Finishing tape is also pplied over all edges of each surface and anywhere there may be surface to surface contact (such as a cabane mount area). Does this sound about right? Makes sense to me know and I do like how the finishing tape around the edges looks.
Couple questoins though:
1. In abufletcher's picture, the finishing tape around the edges only is applied to the LE and TE, not to the wing tip. Is this scale or was this done because it is tought to get the material to lay flat when going around a curved surface? I really would like to do this finishing tape around the edges but with so many edges on this Jenny-Antic being curved, I am concerned that I will not get the finishing tape to lay flat. I guess the smaller the width of the tape the easier it would be to lay flat. Yes it goes around the wingtips. You may have to notch the covering to get it to lay down. Look close at your pictures, you can see this
2. Does the finishing tape over the rib stiching really extend all the way to the LE and TE, or does it stop short?, yes, and the le tape covers this tape at the end
3. For the finishing tape over those areas where there is surface to surface contact, what shape should the tape be (e.g. square, triangle, etc). I saw a picture where they used triangles under the cabane mounting areas. It varies, about anything goes
4. Does the fuse get finishing tape over the edges? on the real ones yes, it's up to you on the model
5. Does stitch spacing on the tail surfaces match the spacing used on the wings, or are there only a few stiches per rib on the tail surfaces? same as wing, W1 was 3", adjust to suit your scale
6. You may have noticed in my picture that I stained the wood surfaces. It looked great without the covering, but since the solartex is semi-transparent, the color of the wood where the covering contacts looks very uneven - some areas where the covering is really ironed down look dark while other areas look fairly light. It's a little distracting to the eye and all this finishing tape will cover it up, but any thoughts? I do not plan to paint the covering because I would like to keep it as transparent as possible so shadows of the inner structure show through. it coverd up the same detail on the real one, just depends on what effect you are shooting for
I have one more wing panel to cover tonight then I'm ready to begin with these fun embellishments!
Thanks
Steve
01-13-2011, 07:52 AM
#14
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
ORIGINAL: insalacosm
1. In abufletcher's picture, the finishing tape around the edges only is applied to the LE and TE, not to the wing tip.
1. In abufletcher's picture, the finishing tape around the edges only is applied to the LE and TE, not to the wing tip.
2. Does the finishing tape over the rib stiching really extend all the way to the LE and TE, or does it stop short?
3. For the finishing tape over those areas where there is surface to surface contact, what shape should the tape be (e.g. square, triangle, etc). I saw a picture where they used triangles under the cabane mounting areas.
01-13-2011, 07:55 AM
#15
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
BTW, the color of the doped fabric on that Jenny is exactly what I'm going for on my Albatros CI. I'll be starting with solartex natural (a translucent white) and then adding a slight tinge of some sort, possibly with PU+stain or Jerry Nelson's suggestion of mixing tea with his Flat Clear.
01-13-2011, 07:55 AM
#16
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RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Steve,
Neat project!! All of the input from others is good advice. Also to note; the rib tapes, or strips, had their edges frayed. This prevented a hard edge, and promoted the bond to the surface fabric (just like pinked edges).
I built a Proctor Jenny and tried to follow this technique by cutting the strips from Sig Coverall (untreated Ceconite) and fraying the edges by hand. **Tedious and horrible**. The effect was great, but very few people even noticed...
Do it for you.
John
Neat project!! All of the input from others is good advice. Also to note; the rib tapes, or strips, had their edges frayed. This prevented a hard edge, and promoted the bond to the surface fabric (just like pinked edges).
I built a Proctor Jenny and tried to follow this technique by cutting the strips from Sig Coverall (untreated Ceconite) and fraying the edges by hand. **Tedious and horrible**. The effect was great, but very few people even noticed...
Do it for you.John
01-13-2011, 08:14 AM
#17
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Note: Solartex RIPS very nicely and creates a very nice approximation of "frayed edges." However, it will only tear straight in ONE direction, namely parallel to the edge of the roll!
01-14-2011, 09:26 AM
#21
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RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Steve,
I am also building a Jenny - a Joy kit in 1/8 scale. Bit of a challenge, since all the goodies are avalable in 1/6 and up... but anyway:
- In the below (2nd) pic you can see the stitching quite clearly on the elevator. Do the math and it should work out toroughly 4" spacing (not 3" as you might expect).Is this because there is less stress on the fabric at the back of the plane. I do not have any pics showing it well enough on the wing to see if the spacing is any different. The tape over the stiches looks to be about 2" and is not pinked
- In thesecond (3rd)pic you can see the taping around the edges of the stab and the rudder. Note the pinking!
- In the3rd (1st) pic, you can barely see the stiching. The math works out the same (4" spacing) and it looks to be about the same on the rudder. Also, notice that the tape does not appear to be pinked on the rudder.
The yellow plane, I believe,is a repro, in one of the museums. The green one is a rebuilt original, and claims to be one of only two in the nation. The other original is in PA at the Golden Age Air Museum. I hope to go tosee this plane in the spring (once theyopen up) and get some more detail.
I am planning to use Koverall for covering my Jenny, and I will defintely be getting some of that stiching from Scale Rib Stitch. Does anybody have experience trying to make tape from Koverall??
Tim
I am also building a Jenny - a Joy kit in 1/8 scale. Bit of a challenge, since all the goodies are avalable in 1/6 and up... but anyway:
- In the below (2nd) pic you can see the stitching quite clearly on the elevator. Do the math and it should work out toroughly 4" spacing (not 3" as you might expect).Is this because there is less stress on the fabric at the back of the plane. I do not have any pics showing it well enough on the wing to see if the spacing is any different. The tape over the stiches looks to be about 2" and is not pinked
- In the
- In the
The yellow plane, I believe,is a repro, in one of the museums. The green one is a rebuilt original, and claims to be one of only two in the nation. The other original is in PA at the Golden Age Air Museum. I hope to go tosee this plane in the spring (once theyopen up) and get some more detail.
I am planning to use Koverall for covering my Jenny, and I will defintely be getting some of that stiching from Scale Rib Stitch. Does anybody have experience trying to make tape from Koverall??
Tim
01-14-2011, 12:21 PM
#22
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
With the pinked tapes you have to know if you are copying a restored plane or are you trying to copy one that is period. Most restorations including the Smithsonian restore to modern airworthiness standards in AC43.12 instead of frayed tapes. The Smithsonian says "just incase it flies again" It also gets them out of the debate of right or wrong. Pinking or fraying Koverall is pretty hard to do, as it frays too much too fast. If you had a machine that could cut it in big strokes maybe; it is pretty hard by hand.
01-14-2011, 12:44 PM
#23
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RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
Try and see if the Koverall will tear. Solaltex will tear straight in 1 direction only. It apparently has a grain parrallel to the long dimension, so it is relatively easy to tear 1/2" or3/8" strips. Don't know if Koverall does this or not. You might find a friend who has enough scraps of Solartex to make your finish tapes,
01-14-2011, 01:00 PM
#24
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
your not going to tear Koverall. its like trying to tear a nylon rope. Actually one of those wheel cutters works pretty good but Koverall is slippery when trying to hold it down between a mat and ruler. It does fray so if you handle it much it will string out. Once there is dope on it, that is when it becomes manageable.
01-16-2011, 08:24 AM
#25
RE: Rib Stitching Question for Jenny
So, I experimented with making stitches using 50%/50% glue mix and did not have any success. It just created blobs of glue rather than a nice line. I'm using insulin syringes which may be too small because pressure builds up and then the glue just drips out. I'm going to try the method of using coton thread on top of a sheet of covering and then cut the strips from that. Here's a picture of someones handywork which looks good. Now I just need to figure out how to get the thread to stick to the covering. I saw a method using paper but I also read that the paper can wrinkle so I'm leaning toward using covering or other type of material. Here's some ideas I have:
- spray 3m adhesive on tip of my covering and then apply the thread that, then apply wax paper over top to cut strips from. Once ironed in place over the ribs I can remove the wax paper and put the finishing tape on top.
- find some double sided adhesive sheets and apply the thread to one side, put wax paper on top, cut into strips, place strips over ribs, remove wax paper, than apply finishing tape on top
- lay thread on top of a piece of covering and spray a coat of clear enamel on top to bond the thread to the covering, then cut into strips, iron in place, then apply finishing tape on top.
Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks
Steve
- spray 3m adhesive on tip of my covering and then apply the thread that, then apply wax paper over top to cut strips from. Once ironed in place over the ribs I can remove the wax paper and put the finishing tape on top.
- find some double sided adhesive sheets and apply the thread to one side, put wax paper on top, cut into strips, place strips over ribs, remove wax paper, than apply finishing tape on top
- lay thread on top of a piece of covering and spray a coat of clear enamel on top to bond the thread to the covering, then cut into strips, iron in place, then apply finishing tape on top.
Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks
Steve