jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

OK 1/3 scale builders, get your instruction books out. On page 29 step 14 it tells us to use the preshaped 1/4 x 3/4 TE. This is for the top wing at the aileron area. On page 33 step 6 it calls for the use of the same size part, 1/4 x 3/4 preshaped LE. Are the two parts the same thing? If so, I need 4 of them to do the top wing and ailerons, and I only have two. Or are they different parts? Do I use a square 1/4 x 3/4 stick and shave the top for the cap strips on the top wing? Or I can make one set, not a problem, I just want to be sure of what I am doing. Thanks for any help.

foodstick

I think the sticks you are looking for are beveled.. When you look at the stick from the end the beveled angle goes down flat on the building board making it lean forward ... I will admit there were some questions for me as well building the aileron leading edge....and the corresponding trailing edge in front of the aileron.

There were a few times I did just build as I wanted and ignored the step by step process.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Yep. I thought the parts were the same, both with the slant already cut on one edge. No big deal, I will just make a set for the ailerons. I know that Balsa USA would send them out to me. All I would have to do is ask. They are a great bunch of people. They fly there own products, how cool is that? But I am going to be past the aileron build before Monday and as I have the spare balsa (as most of us do) its quicker just to cut them myself. And its sort of cool to think you cut a part or two from scratch. Off the glue my fingers to the ailerons.
An add on, here are the three wings so far.

foodstick

You've been busy...
I see you did the more realistic looking way of sheeting the leading edges. I would love to know what the strength difference is from the stock solid sheeting route, and this way.. By the time all the wings are tied together this plane is pretty solid. ...

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

OK. so I found out the problem with the leading edges for the ailerons and trailing edges for the wing mix up. The instructions say both parts should be 1/4 x 3/4 shaped. But it turns out that the instructions for the aileron leading edge should say1/4 x 1/2. And the instructions for the trailing edge of the wing should be 1/4 x 7/8. The parts supplied are both the wrong size. ( I found the 2nd set of edges) The aileron leading edges are 1/4 x 1/2, but are both 4 inches too short. The trailing edge parts are over sized and easy to trim to fit But made it hard to locate them in the box.
Balsa USA... I am only at the end of the 3 wing build, and I have found 6 issues with the kit/instructions/parts that make it confusing to build this thing. This is my 6th Balsa USA kit, so I was ready for some head scratching, but as the say on TV, COM' ON MAN! What other detours will we be taking?

foodstick

You are really hammering away at yours, I have been doing some motor, radio, fuel install stuff. my least favorite aspect of the build...but its got to be done.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I spent the day building my right aileron, the one that is the "replacement" aileron on 144/17. That and watching the Vikings go down in flames. And adding the anti-torque tape to the three wings. Tail section is next. I have to build the new ribs to give it the correct shape. I hate the flat version. I know that the scale version is not that different than the flat one, but I just think it needs to be done. Boy this thing takes a lot of glue!

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Well, the tail group is done, but what a pain in the butt! Parts missing, and instructions that left ??????'s. I soaked the parts over night that needed to be bent and laminated for the trailing edges. 9 hours in the water. When I bent them it sounded like I was eating breakfast cereal, SNAP CRAKLE POP. The wood broke in so many places it was a joke. There was no way I could use them. I ended up tossing all of the parts and making my own. I used the method that the DVII tail uses. Cut the parts and built them up, then sanded to shape. Such a waist of time and wood. So far, not really a fan of the 1/3 scale DRI kit design. Hope it flies well. On to the body of the beast. Keep your fingers crossed.

foodstick

The wood in my kit laminated very well for all the outline pieces of the tail..I don' think I had a single stick break in the process. There is no doubt its nice to have a bunch of spare wood to use laying around if the kit supplies something different. Almost all balsa is good for some uses and bad for others.. Sounds like you got a bad hand full of sticks for that particular purpose.

I have been pretty happy with the kit.. but I admit I scratched my head a few times on the instructions .... If you are using that procedure where you stack three pieces and butt joint them on the tail outlines? I would put some sort of biscuit? type joiner across the butt joint... or sort of overlap the joints.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I am just thankful that I will cover the whole thing and then paint it. Nobody will see the mess I made.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

A quick update. 3 wings as ready to go as they can be for now. And the changes to the right aileron. I swear I must have a kit that was put into the box on Monday or Friday. The issues with this kit are almost not worth the effort. But I know it will look great when its done, so onward we go. For the top and bottom cross braces on the fuselage it tells me to use 3/8 inch sq. stock. I have balsa stock and I have basswood stock in that size. But not enough of either to cut the cross braces. My extra parts bin from past builds is getting smaller for each section of this build. And I was looking at the scraps that are left over from this build. The pile of balsa and plywood from punch out parts is amazing. Again, I know that if I asked Balsa USA to fix the short items in this kit, they would ship them out ASAP. I got the parts, I put them in. Isn't this why we keep a box of extra wood?

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

OK, so I have the fuse all framed up and had no more problems. Until I came to the last step. Step 32 page 45. "Glue the 1/4 triangle parts to the tank floor" Then the picture shows arrows pointing to the parts mentioned. It looks to be about 1 inch tall. No mention if the part is hardwood or balsa, so it must be balsa as the instructions at the start of the book read that all parts are balsa unless stated otherwise. OK, fine. You got it, no balsa 1/4 inch triangle sticks. Not even any that are about one inch tall and triangle. There is one piece that is hardwood and fits the description, but is only 12 inches long. To make the three parts needed I would need about 24 inches. Any suggestions?

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

that is Y I built mine from scratch , like rcwarbirdbuilder

foodstick

Jeffee , did you use 3/8 square wood where you were supposed to laminate three sticks into one 3/8 stick?

Hahahahahah, I hear you exactly on the tank floor thing.. there were some steps and parts out of order and missing here as well. It really doesn't stop me..but when I am trying to go step by step and check things off it does cause a lot of head scratching

Yeah the 1/3 DR1 book is like my comments on RCU, I need to go back and rewrite them.. about 3 times

All in all though I love their kits, and this is supposed to be the sweetest flying fun scale DR1 yet...

foodstick

Jeffee I couldn't believe how much better the cowl looks once primed...

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

You know, I have gone back thru the build and looked to see if I grabbed the right part at the wrong time. But nope, I have done my job and measured at each step. I know I sound like I am repeating myself, but its not a big deal, I can make a part to do the job. But Lord help a person that tries this kit with no help! Foodstick...I love the cowl. What did you add to build the front up? I was going to cut out the face and re-glass a new part, but yours looks nice. I could try that.
Landing gear next, hold your breath.

foodstick

1. I just cut a plastic disk the size of the indented front,
2. Put a tiny bit of Vaseline on the edge..
3. clamped and weighted it to the cleaned, and scuffed cowl...
4. Then puttied on some green model putty, sanded, then applied second coat..
5. Carefully cut around the edge of the disk because the putty still stuck to the plastic disk...



followed by drilling evenly spaced holes and gluing in flat headed pins, then cutting pins off from inside cowl with a Dremel.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Well, I must say, I LOVE this landing gear set up. I would think that it could be adapted to the 1/4 scale builds too. All the parts were there and fit well. The only drawback is that I STINK at soldering. I mean really stink. I have done all the cleaning and sanding and fluxing and guns/irons/torch/whatever. And I still can not do it worth a tinkers damn. HAHA not to worry. A trip to the local auto shop and a quick welding job. Never have to think about that part breaking at the joint. Cost? not a dime. The guys there have done this for me in the past, and since I bring my cars there for tune ups and the such. no problem. And even if they charged me a few $$$, for me to not to have to worry about my crappy soldering would be worth it. I gotta get my wheels ordered. This thing will need to get on its feet soon. I have tried to get a sample of the color I will be adding as the camo paint. But here is a close match, just have to imagine it is not glossy. Not green, not brown. Is it correct???? Close enough for me.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

If you take a look at the US Olive Drab of WWII its a pretty close match..

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Olive drab is a close match? I do not mean to sound rude, please do not take it that way, but a match according to who? There are as many opinions about the correct color as there are people building tri planes. I have no problem with the color olive drab. I would just like to know your source or point of reference. I have many sources on file and I may have missed the one you have. Thanks for the help.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Jeff.. let me find a source. I built a GTM DVI. for the cowl I used OD. From what I could tell it looked like a decent match to some color photos.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

AHH... GTM. The Royals Royce of the RC world. I almost bought a 1/3 scale DVII of his, but then the daughter had to get married, so.. oh well.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Aw you should have bought the GTM DVII. No doubt it's a great kit. My buddy bought one and it's still in the box..
Now they are no longer available..

jtisch

My GTM kit came with color samples (swatches?). OD looks fairly close, but then again I am somewhat color-blind.

J

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Olive drab at one paint store is different than at another. I googled olive drab and got over 60 different colors that all claim to be olive drab. I guess a paint chip from GTM is as good a starting place as any other. As I have mentioned to others, it would be really great to get all of these 1/3 scale tripes together and sit around and talk and get a gaggle up. Any dawn patrols is central America this year? Iowa, Colorado, Nebraska?