WarbirdColors Paint
#77
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: spicewood, TX
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I'm spraying White and the fluid I have has a yellow tint to it...but good point I will spray a test piece and see if I can tell any color change...10% should be really a few parts per......Thanks again for all your help...my problem with the paint was I had thinned it too much. After I backed off on the water to about 30% everything stuck very well and my test shoots with the white at 20% with a touch up gun from Harbor Freight prove it's going to be just fine.
again thanks
rick
again thanks
rick
#78
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: spicewood, TX
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Bob...thanks also, I used water on the test shoot with the white...and it worked well...had some anomalies, thought I had a mess, but when it dried it was fine and anything like a fish eye here or there, leveled out and sanded out easily. I was curious about the Windshield fluid...I have come across it on youtube several times as an additive because of the detergent and alcohol helping the paint flow but wanted to get some straight dope so came here!!!! You guys are great...
rick
rick
#80
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: spicewood, TX
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Beautiful...what model of 109 is it and if you don't mind...what happened to it? Love the pictures...OH!! This is my Youtube site..you might get a kick out of what I fly and where...https://www.youtube.com/user/ricksrcvideos
rick
rick
#81
My Feedback: (4)
It's built from Dave Platt plans, as a Bf-109G6. I modified the front end quite a bit, as I used a big Scorpion electric motor swinging a Biela 20X14 3 blade prop. I think I lost it because I got too slow when I turned down wind and ran out of airspeed resulting in the classic stall/spin/crash.. But lately I've been reading horror stories about the Castle Creations BEC Pro, and what a lot of users describe fits what happened to my model. But I really don't know for sure. The radio and BEC worked fine on the ground, of course. I still think dumb thumbs was the cause. A shame, because it flew really well and had heaps of power. There is a video of the 2nd flight here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEKAbBKcvgs (the camera man was a little shaky) Love your video of the Extra 300 with the smoke. Looks awesome!
Last edited by Wolperdinger; 05-14-2014 at 06:24 AM.
#82
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: spicewood, TX
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Hey loved your video also!...I am a little bit of a 109 buff and did you know the G model was plagued with engine problems...Hans-Joachim Marseille was killed in one after being ordered to fly it when he knew the engine had problems....He was not alone!!!
I just wondered because with equipment so good now...there is very little except human error that can cause the loss of a plane...it was beautiful...however..
rick
I just wondered because with equipment so good now...there is very little except human error that can cause the loss of a plane...it was beautiful...however..
rick
#83
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Thanks Davey! She was a beauty and I wish she had a longer service life. Oh well, live and learn! I'm not surprised that they were pressed into service with known flaws. Not much choice when you're being over run by B-17s. I'm building a Vailly 1:5 Typhoon right now. This one is going to be gas powered, with a ZDZ-90. It's progressing well, and should be flying in the fall sometime.
#84
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: spicewood, TX
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#85
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Hey Bob...Rick...the guy that hates WBC paint...well I am well into painting my sukhoi 26 1/4 scale and I happened across a very cool feature of WBC paint!!!
Had to share it with you...I don't know how to tell everyone however...but here goes.
Fearing that I would experience lifting like I did before...I sprayed the entire plane with Klass Kote White with a satin catalyst as a base coat. Then used the color "pink" that WBC mixed for me off a picture of the color! They hit the color dead on... anyway... true to all the threads the WBC paint gets under the 3M blue striping tape...what a pain...but I digress... get this now the cool thing....after WBC dried...you can wipe off the WBC paint with Toluene!!! and it doesn't touch the Klass Kote epoxy underneath. If you are careful you can do some incredible touchups with toluene. But be careful...dried WBC will absolutely wipe off when it comes in contact with toluene.. also, I have not had any lifting problems with WBC since I stop thinning at 3 to 1 and it sticks to the Klass Kote just fine. But being able to erase your blemishes is incredible and it was totally by accident I discovered it...
Rick
Had to share it with you...I don't know how to tell everyone however...but here goes.
Fearing that I would experience lifting like I did before...I sprayed the entire plane with Klass Kote White with a satin catalyst as a base coat. Then used the color "pink" that WBC mixed for me off a picture of the color! They hit the color dead on... anyway... true to all the threads the WBC paint gets under the 3M blue striping tape...what a pain...but I digress... get this now the cool thing....after WBC dried...you can wipe off the WBC paint with Toluene!!! and it doesn't touch the Klass Kote epoxy underneath. If you are careful you can do some incredible touchups with toluene. But be careful...dried WBC will absolutely wipe off when it comes in contact with toluene.. also, I have not had any lifting problems with WBC since I stop thinning at 3 to 1 and it sticks to the Klass Kote just fine. But being able to erase your blemishes is incredible and it was totally by accident I discovered it...
Rick
#86
If your WBC bled under your tape, you probably did a couple things incorrectly.
The tape may not have been properly burnished at the edge.
WBC is applied with light coats, at first, and left to set up for 10-15 minutes between coats. Among other things, this virtually eliminates any bleeding under the tape. The first few coats are so light, that you can barely see the color.
The tape may not have been properly burnished at the edge.
WBC is applied with light coats, at first, and left to set up for 10-15 minutes between coats. Among other things, this virtually eliminates any bleeding under the tape. The first few coats are so light, that you can barely see the color.
#87
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: spicewood, TX
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Tom...thanks for the additional help with WBC paint...what an adventure learning to use this stuff...I finally ended up with 50/50 Windex and 50% Isopropyl to thin it with and a fairly high pressure in my Iwada airbrush and got remarkable results... but I have not tried the really light coats and letting it set up for that long. So, as I am in the early stages of an extensive striping on the Sukhoi, your advice is very helpful...now one last thing...after you have put on enough coats to cover and get the true color and you go to lift the tape...how do you keep the paint from partially sticking to the tape and lifting along the edges of the tape? This stuff is like rubber being shot to the plane...I guess that's why they call it latex! I have tried everything to get a clean crisp line...scoring the tape line with an a razor blade has worked, but lord what a tedious process. The stuff doesn't sand at all, just rolls up under the sand paper...I'll tell you, I would never use this stuff again to paint a plane. The lack of smell and cleanup is about the only saving grace with WBC. But if you have a trick for the tape problem I would appreciate it. I have tried to pull the tape before it sets...no luck...I have waited until it was half dry...no luck...I have waited until it was dry...semi luck...so if you have a trick please let me know... I am shooting Pink over White so to get the full color putting on light coats means there is a fair buildup on the tape...
rick
rick
#88
When I paint, I pull the tape as soon as the paint starts to set up. I never let it fully dry. This goes for any type, latex, poly, oil.
I find that I have far fewr problems when I do this.
After working for over 30 years in paint manufacturing, I've learned not to mess with the formulations, by adding unknowns like Windex and Isopropyl. I thin my WBC with water.
I find that I have far fewr problems when I do this.
After working for over 30 years in paint manufacturing, I've learned not to mess with the formulations, by adding unknowns like Windex and Isopropyl. I thin my WBC with water.
Last edited by TomCrump; 06-20-2014 at 04:52 AM.
#89
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: spicewood, TX
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Tom thanks...I couldn't agree more...I can't understand why there is so much thread time devoted to different concoctions for thinning WBC when plain water should be enough...and I agree...I think I may have changed the chemistry with my thinning concoction so next spray will be with just water and see if the paint won't settle down...I have been around the clock with this stuff and your experience of 30 years I appreciate. Suffice it to say that this stuff is certainly different than what I am used to...auto lacquers and epoxy's but I just had to try something new to save what brain cells I have left! I really would like this stuff to work if only I can work with it.
rick
rick