Hangar 9 20cc Tiger Moth Build
#27
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RE: Hangar 9 20cc Tiger Moth Build
mate the H9 Tiggy is a lovely ARF! Very impressed with it.
I spent about 3 hours on it this evening in between watching the footy.
Here is this evening's handiwork.
Now if only my warbird builds went as fast
I spent about 3 hours on it this evening in between watching the footy.
Here is this evening's handiwork.
Now if only my warbird builds went as fast
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RE: Hangar 9 20cc Tiger Moth Build
MVVS 30 petrol. It is same dimensions, weights as the MVVS 26 and Evo 26. MVVS is discontinued and as I am a MVVS agent why would I not fit one!
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RE: Hangar 9 20cc Tiger Moth Build
ORIGINAL: Peter_OZ
MVVS 30 petrol. It is same dimensions, weights as the MVVS 26 and Evo 26. MVVS is discontinued and as I am a MVVS agent why would I not fit one!
MVVS 30 petrol. It is same dimensions, weights as the MVVS 26 and Evo 26. MVVS is discontinued and as I am a MVVS agent why would I not fit one!
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RE: Hangar 9 20cc Tiger Moth Build
Heres a link to almost 3000 photos of Tigermoths:
http://www.abpic.co.uk/search.php?pa...%20Moth&u=type
http://www.abpic.co.uk/search.php?pa...%20Moth&u=type
#35
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RE: Hangar 9 20cc Tiger Moth Build
My Tiger Moth is almost complete. I used a Saito FG36. I had to cut the firewall back and beef everything up. With the batteries towards the rear it balances perfect.
Here are a couple of tips I wish I had known about.
It is all related to the balsa being very soft
1. Support Cradle. Do not attempt to attach the cradle to the wing using only 1 of the supplied rubber bands at each end. The rubber bands will dig into the wing leaving marks.
I purchased large wide bands
2. When attaching the cabane cross bracing to the fuel tank and top of fuselage, be aware that as you tighten the screws they will start sinking into the balsa. I ended up putting some epoxy on the threads
and then tightened them down till they just started depressing the balsa wood.
3. When attaching the flying wire attachment anchors I did not use the supplied phillips head screws. The chances of screwing all of these into the wings without the screw driver slipping and putting a hole in the wing are slim to none. ( don't ask me how I know!). I ended up using allen head sheet metal screws ( i purchased from the rc fastener company that advertises in the model magazines). I put a little glue on the thread.
Again if you over tighten they will sink into the balsa wood.
4. Use a good quality set of ball type allen wrenches or drivers. Almost everything on the plane uses allen bolts.
5. When working with the wing struts be careful to hold onto the strut until it is attached top and bottom. If you let go of the strut while it is loosely attached to just the bottom wing it will drop and put a nasty dent in the wing ( the angled part of the strut at the bottom is what digs in to the wood )
Hope this will save someone from having any of these problems
Ron
Here are a couple of tips I wish I had known about.
It is all related to the balsa being very soft
1. Support Cradle. Do not attempt to attach the cradle to the wing using only 1 of the supplied rubber bands at each end. The rubber bands will dig into the wing leaving marks.
I purchased large wide bands
2. When attaching the cabane cross bracing to the fuel tank and top of fuselage, be aware that as you tighten the screws they will start sinking into the balsa. I ended up putting some epoxy on the threads
and then tightened them down till they just started depressing the balsa wood.
3. When attaching the flying wire attachment anchors I did not use the supplied phillips head screws. The chances of screwing all of these into the wings without the screw driver slipping and putting a hole in the wing are slim to none. ( don't ask me how I know!). I ended up using allen head sheet metal screws ( i purchased from the rc fastener company that advertises in the model magazines). I put a little glue on the thread.
Again if you over tighten they will sink into the balsa wood.
4. Use a good quality set of ball type allen wrenches or drivers. Almost everything on the plane uses allen bolts.
5. When working with the wing struts be careful to hold onto the strut until it is attached top and bottom. If you let go of the strut while it is loosely attached to just the bottom wing it will drop and put a nasty dent in the wing ( the angled part of the strut at the bottom is what digs in to the wood )
Hope this will save someone from having any of these problems
Ron
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RE: Hangar 9 20cc Tiger Moth Build
G'day concur about the screws holding the flying wires. I used similar method, used hex head 9/16th servo mounting screws. Also some of the clevises in my kit boke when I tried to slip them on. I had to substitue some Dubro ones. Not a biggie.
I did put one hole in an aileron from my screwdrive slipping. Tiny bit of expoxy and silver paint fixed that.
I did put one hole in an aileron from my screwdrive slipping. Tiny bit of expoxy and silver paint fixed that.
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Got my Tiger Moth Finished and now have four flights
I have mine powered with a Saito 150 with 18 X 6 prop. Way more power than it needs. Fly around at about 1/3 throttle for scale like flight. Very little required to convert to the 150 just a few minutes with a small round file on the left side of the motor mount. Plugged the holes in the firewall, that I assume were for cooling the ignition which of course I don't need.
Huge price drop! Two of my buddies just ordered two for themselves. Can't wait to fly the three in formation.
I had about ten clicks of down elevator to fly straight and level. Just put three peices of thin aluminum sheet under the leading edge of the stab. Can' t be seen but it now is flying with neutral elevators.
I went up in a Tiggy while in New Zealand ZK-BLK wonderful A/C.
Huge price drop! Two of my buddies just ordered two for themselves. Can't wait to fly the three in formation.
I had about ten clicks of down elevator to fly straight and level. Just put three peices of thin aluminum sheet under the leading edge of the stab. Can' t be seen but it now is flying with neutral elevators.
I went up in a Tiggy while in New Zealand ZK-BLK wonderful A/C.
Last edited by cloudniner; 09-19-2013 at 04:08 PM.
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Hello Don
I needed a whole bunch of nose weight to get the Tiggy to balance properly. I have five sub 'C' batteries behind the motor with an on board glow driver. However I have a lot of four strokes mounted inverted in other A/C and don't use the on board thing.
The only four stroke I really needed one for is a three cylinder Saito 170R3 which would flame out one cylinder.
So bottome line is if I didn't need the nose weight I would not have put the on board system on.
Mine weights in at 15.3lbs.
My Tiggy balances about 3/4 inch in front of the screws that hold the bracing wires up near the bottom of the fuel tank.
This thing looks great in the air. I usually park the 150 at 5200 to 5500 RPM to give scale like flight.
Have a good time with yours.
Richard
I needed a whole bunch of nose weight to get the Tiggy to balance properly. I have five sub 'C' batteries behind the motor with an on board glow driver. However I have a lot of four strokes mounted inverted in other A/C and don't use the on board thing.
The only four stroke I really needed one for is a three cylinder Saito 170R3 which would flame out one cylinder.
So bottome line is if I didn't need the nose weight I would not have put the on board system on.
Mine weights in at 15.3lbs.
My Tiggy balances about 3/4 inch in front of the screws that hold the bracing wires up near the bottom of the fuel tank.
This thing looks great in the air. I usually park the 150 at 5200 to 5500 RPM to give scale like flight.
Have a good time with yours.
Richard
Last edited by cloudniner; 09-28-2013 at 10:58 AM.
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Don
Something to add. The engine and hence the glow plug sit high in the cowl. If you don't use the on board glow system you will need a very long glow driver.
Just thought I would pass that on.
Richard
Something to add. The engine and hence the glow plug sit high in the cowl. If you don't use the on board glow system you will need a very long glow driver.
Just thought I would pass that on.
Richard
Last edited by cloudniner; 09-28-2013 at 02:33 PM.
#45
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Tiger Moth Flying Shots
Here are some flying shots of my Tiger Moth. What a great flying A/C. Photos taken at the Brighton Ontario Apple Fest Fun Fly. Thanks to Dave!
Last edited by cloudniner; 09-30-2013 at 05:53 PM.
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My Tiger Moth is almost complete. I used a Saito FG36. I had to cut the firewall back and beef everything up. With the batteries towards the rear it balances perfect.
Here are a couple of tips I wish I had known about.
It is all related to the balsa being very soft
Hope this will save someone from having any of these problems
Ron
Here are a couple of tips I wish I had known about.
It is all related to the balsa being very soft
Hope this will save someone from having any of these problems
Ron
I too have a FG36 that I may use....I have to order this up 1st....
ONLY issue is that ...when H9 sells out of this... it is then DiSContinued!....
I hate not having parts available....
I don't want to purchase 2 of them.... but perhaps I should...
I have a GP HAWK Biplane... that was discontinued and then a limited run.... and should have gotten anotherone.... so perhaps I should just do it.....
I have yet to even get that one up though.... ....
I felt that I should have purchased the H9 30cc P-41D that was recently reduced to HALF and then Discontinued....
I guess they didn't sell enough of these at 800$ a piece??? for the p47 or the Tiger...
This just seems like a great flyer...and perfect for my saito gasser...
#49
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Just recieved my TIger....WOW....what a fantastic plane!!!!!
This is Aero-works quality IMHO...
I is a very large w/s bird....
I may order another one....dare I say???
I wish I would have picked up the 30cc Bubble top p-47....as well...H9 has very good quality....from iniial inspection anyway...
I also have seen the Maxford Spad...onsale for 230$.... so I am a bit torn...
This is Aero-works quality IMHO...
I is a very large w/s bird....
I may order another one....dare I say???
I wish I would have picked up the 30cc Bubble top p-47....as well...H9 has very good quality....from iniial inspection anyway...
I also have seen the Maxford Spad...onsale for 230$.... so I am a bit torn...