hrrcflyer

Holy Cow Bill,

If that would have happened to me, I would have had to go home and change my underwear.................[X(] I'm glad your elevator finally responded for you. Here's to you having many more years of joy flying your incredible Albi.......................

Take care,
David

wildbills21

Dave,

My cheeks were so puckered there was nothing getting to the underwear.

Wild Bill

valleyk

Funny I use only one hitec 645 servo ( 6 volt nimh) for the elevator on my 1/3 scale 38 lb GTM dr1 and done multiple loops with no problem. Then again I use pull pull cables with 2.5 inch long horns on both ends. You got me thinking because my 1/3 busa pup has the same setup but the cables are routed differently to cause more friction. What servo would be a good choice to upgrade. I don’t like digital not needed.

Teus

Congrats with your result Bill. The plane is looking awesome

About the servo's: Why don't you use them at 6 volt? Power will increase 20%, that must be more then enough for a model like this. Since I am at 2.4 I fly all my models with a 5-cell receiver pack with a 5.8 volt regulator in between.

WacoNut

I am running 645's on my Waco with one servo per control surface. I am also running a Smart-Fly power expander with 6v to the servo's. Dual 4200mah packs.
I like the power expander as it takes all the load off of the receiver. It also regulates 4.8v to the receiver. My Waco is approx. 60lbs and it is not mushy at all during loops.

Glad you were able to get her pulled out in time.
Anthony

wildbills21

To All.

Thank you for the input. The elevator is pull, pull. I believe part of the problem is the cables are inside a plastic tube for roughly 3/4 the length of the fuse. There are some subtle bends in the tubes. If the cables were run without the tubes there probably would be no issue. The tubes are built into the fuse before it is sheeted. It would be next to impossible to get the wires run without them.

Wild Bill

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

How about lubricating the cables? A decent silicone spray may work just fine if you have any serious friction in the plastic tubes. Personally I don't think that's the problem unless the tubes are near the cable diameter.

You didn't mention if you reduced your throttle at the top of the loop or not. I'm just curious.

wildbills21

Bob,
Plane was at idle at top of loop, elevator at nuetral at top of loop to make it more arcing until it starts to nose over. Thats when the story starts.

Wild Bill

kerrydel

My Feedback: (2)

A Hitec HS-7955TG would solve your problem. It ain't cheap at $115, but it's got 250 oz in at 4.8V! And it's much less expensive than replacing the airplane.

Just my 2 cents

Kerry

wildbills21

To All the Alby fans,

I flew the Alby again Sat. night. 2 ten minute flights. Then after the 2nd flight did 3 takeoffs/landings. I was finally able to feel the plane out, there was not a breath of wind. As you can see by the picture I had my helper along. Not a very good quality picture but i thought it was cool. The Alby is flying again tonight, maybe tonight Ill have enough courage to loop it. again. LOL

Wild Bill

hrrcflyer

Just make sure you're PLENTY high enough just in case............................LOL ! ! !

Take care,
David

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

WildBill:

I have both wings on my Albatros completed and I am starting on the crutches for the fuselage. I have a question about the relocated position of the truss and firewall for my particular engine. I am using a DLE-85 engine that has a special motor mount that places the firewall about 8" from the front of the firewall, F1.

Taking a look back in the manual and on the plans, I see the "motor box" has placed the firewall at the front of the "ears" on the box, which in turn leaves a cutout for the Pitts muffler behind and below it.

My DLE-85 will mount allowing the muffler to fit in front of the firewall without that cutout being used.

My plan, if you agree, is to simply cut off those "ears" from the engine box sides and put the firewall directly above the lower front wall, bracing as necessary. The firewall front will be about 8" behind the front of F1, and I will not need that muffler cutout at all.

Also, I take it that the side trusses and diagonals should be at or very near the location of the firewall, once the engine box is installed.

Thanks

valleyk

A grass runway makes all the difference in the world when flying these planes.

cocobear

My Feedback: (2)

The Albie actually tracks nice on pavement as well.

valleyk

I agree the Albatros is well behaved. You know I'm done building but If anyone had a finished 1/3 scale Albatros willing to sell and it was quality workmanship I would give 5k for it.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Here's how I got around the "wrong color stain" possibility on my Albatros.

Here's the fuselage after staining with one coat of Minwax Wood Preparation and one coat of Minwax Ipswitch Pine.

The second shot is during the application of the Mottled Camouflage used by the Germans on many Albatros planes. It's just some olive drab latex paint thinned with windshield washer fluid 50-50 and dabbed on with a small coarse brush. It also hides most of the errors in the sheeting application (thank goodness!!).

Highflyer2

My Feedback: (1)

Looks good Dick - Will we see you at Macs later this week?

John

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

I don't think the Albi will be done by then.

FokkerD7

My Feedback: (5)

Valleyk sent pm

FokkerD7

My Feedback: (5)

Yes it does track well on pavement. Now turning might be another story. Might need to put silicone on tail skid. That help my FokkerDVll

FokkerD7

My Feedback: (5)

..

wildbills21

Dick,

I would put a 3/8 inch cap with triangle stock on the top of the firewall back to the bass block that the cabanes slide in. This has proved to be a week point on the 2 original albis firewall.

Wild Bill

cocobear

My Feedback: (2)

???????????????????????????????????????