Pitts S1-S by EMHW
#3378
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The video is not much but it served my purpose. And that was to do the range checks, both engine off and running, bounce it around just a bit to see if anything shakes loose/electronically, and to see or hear if the exhaust was where I want it. I think it is perfect and will leave it straight pipes. Now to get this bird finished up and let it take flight.
Wow just doesn't seem to hit the mark. That is one fine looking aircraft and the sound of the engine running just adds icing on the cake!
Like everyone else had said, 'Can't wait to see it fly!'
#3379
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Thanks guy's, I'm working on it. It might would go a bit faster if I weren't so stupid. You know that little cover access plate at the rear (pic #1) of which I painted with the rest of the plane. Well, it just so happens that I forgot about the little mount ring (Pic #2) that goes in the fuse, way back at the rear, where you can't see or get to hardly. But, after many attempts in many different ways did manage to get it in. Took about 2 hours, the other side should go quicker.
#3384
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"Looks like it handles like a full scale Pitts on the pavement!"
LOL. I remember that. I never knew what direction mine was going to take off in.:-))))))))))))))
Les
LOL. I remember that. I never knew what direction mine was going to take off in.:-))))))))))))))
Les
#3385
Thanks guy's, I'm working on it. It might would go a bit faster if I weren't so stupid. You know that little cover access plate at the rear (pic #1) of which I painted with the rest of the plane. Well, it just so happens that I forgot about the little mount ring (Pic #2) that goes in the fuse, way back at the rear, where you can't see or get to hardly. But, after many attempts in many different ways did manage to get it in. Took about 2 hours, the other side should go quicker.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 08-30-2014 at 01:20 PM.
#3386
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Well John, you're half right. That long rod would not hold the interior plate well enough to get the screws through. So, I slipped thread into the hole, pulled it to the canopy opening with that rod and a piece of double sided tape on the end. Did that with both screw holes, then tied the wooden ring to the thread, minding front and rear, then used that rod with the hook on the ring to keep tension on the thread and to keep it from twisting up. Pulled the thread back through the screw holes and while keeping the tension tight lightly started the screws. And Voila!!!!
#3388
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I also learned, from that run, that a four strokes crankcase breather tube can not be extended. I don't know if it came through in the vid but it would only throttle up to around 2500rpm's, apparently due to back pressure in the case.....
#3389
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By the way, anyone here know anything about four stroke gas, I'm all ears. Things like-don't extend, or how to tune, or anything. This is new to me in aircraft.
#3393
Originally Posted by acerc
Well John, you're half right. That long rod would not hold the interior plate well enough to get the screws through. So, I slipped thread into the hole, pulled it to the canopy opening with that rod and a piece of double sided tape on the end. Did that with both screw holes, then tied the wooden ring to the thread, minding front and rear, then used that rod with the hook on the ring to keep tension on the thread and to keep it from twisting up. Pulled the thread back through the screw holes and while keeping the tension tight lightly started the screws. And Voila!!!!
I know plenty about four strokes Ace; but mostly glow fuel... ordered my first "Gas" four stoke on Friday to put in my H9 Super Cub, getting one of those OS GF40's... valley view's still back ordered their 40CC twin.
John M,
#3395
What I did with my Saito 130 twin was to use a piece of heat shrink tubing with a large enough inside diameter so the oil can drain, while allowing the crankcase gases to vent freely.... I heated the very end of the shrink tubing, to shrink it down to where it will fit over the crankcase vent nipple... I cut the shrunk portion down so it was just long enough to fit over the nipple without interfering with the vent flow (cut the shrunk portion as short as possible)... the only thing I don't know is how well the shrink tubing will hold up in the GAS environment... on the Saito 130 twin Glow engine it worked a treat, and kept that nasty breather oil off the underside of the fuselage which runs down everywhere.
John M,
#3396
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My engine came with a crankcase tube about 12" long, just long enough to point it down and out. I added length in an attempt to keep the oil off the bottom of the fuse. I'll just have to keep some wipes with me just for this one.
#3397
Well what I mean is, the inside diameter of the breather vent tube needs to be larger when you extend it... especially when its a long length... I would try replacing that entire vent tube with a longer piece of tubing that has a larger inside diameter... you will have to fashion a means of holding it on the crankcase nipple though... because of the larger insider diameter tube, it won't push over the nipple, so you'll need a clamp or clip to hold it in place.
That's why I use the shrink tubing, because it has a larger inside diameter and I can shrink the very tip or end of the tube down to make it fit over the nipple on the crankcase.
Whats happening Ace, as the rpm increases, the volume and velocity of the venting gasses increases, but with that extension tube that you added, restricts the gas flow, which causes excessive back pressure in the crankcase... so as you extend the length of the breather tube, you have to also increase the inside diameter of the tubing to reduce resistance or restriction the longer length of tubing causes.
John M,
That's why I use the shrink tubing, because it has a larger inside diameter and I can shrink the very tip or end of the tube down to make it fit over the nipple on the crankcase.
Whats happening Ace, as the rpm increases, the volume and velocity of the venting gasses increases, but with that extension tube that you added, restricts the gas flow, which causes excessive back pressure in the crankcase... so as you extend the length of the breather tube, you have to also increase the inside diameter of the tubing to reduce resistance or restriction the longer length of tubing causes.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 08-30-2014 at 06:49 PM.
#3398
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Whats happening Ace, as the rpm increases, the volume and velocity of the venting gasses increases, but with that extension tube that you added, restricts the gas flow, which causes excessive back pressure in the crankcase... so as you extent the length of the breather tube, you have to also increase the inside diameter of the tubing to reduce resistance or restriction the longer length of tubing causes.
John M,
John M,
#3399
True, but now for the rest of the story. Not only does the length restrict the flow but so does the exiting oil. With the line being 3 feet in length the oil pools in the hose where ever it has a sway. All in all, to me, it is not worth going to an extremely larger tube, stretching taught so no pooling. I will just clean it after each outing, it's not like this baby is going to be my everyday flier so it won't be that often.
Right, you got it... the tubing can't drape with low spots in it where oil can collect and block the venting gasses.... A straight down and out run... the nice thing about the shrink tubing is it has a thin wall to it, so the inside diameter is larger.
A 3 foot section would require quite a large inside diameter to reduce the restriction to where the oil would run and gases could flow freely.
This is what I did with the 130... the longer the tube the bigger the inside diameter has to be in order to vent freely... 3 feet is quite long.
Last edited by John_M_; 08-30-2014 at 07:06 PM.
#3400
Well John, you're half right. That long rod would not hold the interior plate well enough to get the screws through. So, I slipped thread into the hole, pulled it to the canopy opening with that rod and a piece of double sided tape on the end. Did that with both screw holes, then tied the wooden ring to the thread, minding front and rear, then used that rod with the hook on the ring to keep tension on the thread and to keep it from twisting up. Pulled the thread back through the screw holes and while keeping the tension tight lightly started the screws. And Voila!!!!
I bet you were the kid who always sported a fancy watch or gold chain from those machines. If not, you coulda .
Kevin