acerc

Anyone here know enough about electrical to tell me how to hook a stove element up to 240v? The pic is the element and is what I would like to get for the new and bigger vac form heater.

stevegauth30

Is said element intended for 240?

acerc

Really bud? Of course it is. I know, you just had to ask.

stevegauth30

Sorry. Sometimes I can't help it.

acerc

That's ok, I had to ask the company after seeing the end and reading it takes 240v. I don't see how one would hook it up under those terms, unless the mount has something to do with it.

acerc

Rest assured I will figure it out whether by myself or someone smarter lends a hand. I will not be dependent on another for replacement parts again. A bigger vac table is coming very soon.

John_M_

240 is just two 120 hot legs... those electric bar b que charcoal igniters just have the two wires connected to the terminals of the heating element, but with 240vac you should have some sort of thermal safety switch / breaker in the line.

Now here comes the fun stuff... I've been hit with 240vac; its no joke, and threw me across the room and partly through the wall... its a sensation I would not wish on my worst enemy... so take all the safety precautions when dealing with electricity, especially 240vac.



John M,

acerc

I have all that lined up via a thermally protected on/off switch as well as breaker system, I just need to know for sure how to hook up the lines to the element. If all else fails I will go to an appliance parts and repair store to find out but that advice cost money.

John_M_

If that heating element is rated for 240vac, its straight forward... its not polarity sensitive if that's what you are referring to... one wire goes on each side of the heating element... but I'm not sure if you need some sort of temperature control rheostat...what gauge wire are you using.



John M,

acerc

I am thinking 10-, so you think I just hook each 120 to each side? What about a common and or a ground? I don't think it needs a stat for it will be turned off as soon as the plastic is ready for the vac.

John_M_

You got two 120vac hot legs, one on each terminal... there is no common with a two terminal 240vac connection... no ground or common connected to the element terminals as that would be a short across the heating element... but if you connect it directly, you'll have no means to control the temperature... it maybe wise to seek some advise Ace, with an electric oven, there is a means of controlling the temperature.


***EDIT***

120vac

John M,

raptureboy

Something similar to a hot water heater element to control it. How about an apartment size electric oven? check this out he uses a quartz heater https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maH5Ech0wK8

acerc

Sounds good. I can pick up a stat just to be safe, can set it at the max temp I want (around 300°) and leave it be.

John_M_

Yeah, a rheostat would be wise... that way you can control the temp on thin gauge plastics... #10 gauge wire would be the minimal I would use, check the specs on the heating element for the amps draw, #10 should be good for up to 30 amps, if in question you can go with #8 40 amp.



John M,

acerc

The type of plastic also adds to the shear size of the table. For me it is PETG, which is best for a canopy of this size other than Plexiglass which I may go with depending on availability for price.
The typical colored plastics (Styrene) do not require as much heat and do not stretch as much during heating, the stretching is also another reason I may go with Plexiglass, it stretches less than PETG during heating. For my canopy the table needs to be a minimum of 20"x30" oerating area which is rather large and equates to 24"x34" overall, a stove element is the most economical means at these sizes. Also in his video where he is showing the plastic holder there is very little space around the mold which stretches the plastic a lot around the perimeter. That would make for a very weak functional canopy which is what I am doing.
These are my interpretations from my research for doing this canopy. Years ago when I did vac forming it did not seem so involved but then again there were not so many options in plastic either, or heating abilities (I used the oven) and I am a little more picky in my older age.

acerc

Will do my friend, and thanks.

John_M_

As an example a 5500watt heating element would require a 23 amp breaker, so #10 wire should be adequate.


John M,

acerc

And if any of you lookie loos know anything that would be helpful in my endeavor by all means speak up. I'm always open to good advice.

John_M_

That quartz heater worked very well....


John M,

acerc

After watching that video again I think I will try it. I have a really good space heater and all that I would need to buy is the aluminum faced insulation board. Next week I will stick the space heater in the oven and see what temps it will produce in the confined space and go from there.

John_M_

It seemed predictable, I don't know how safe it is to confine a space heater to such a small area, but at least they have a thermal over temp cut off, and some even have a mercury switch, so if they tip over they turn off.

BTW, those 'bar b que' electric charcoal starters get red hot, and they work on 110-120, but they are on full bore with no means to control the temp, but you could just adjust the distance from the element to vary the heat concentration.

Also Ace in that video, he was using a "Quartz" heater, which radiates the heat differently than a std hot wire space heater... somewhat like an infrared space heater.


John M,

Leroy Gardner

Robert that spreader bar on the element is the neutral, the other two lugs are where the two 120v lines connect, if you look in your oven where the element is plugged in you will see the clips on each side that hold it in there and make the ground and neutral connection which is common to each other.

Leroy

frequent flyer

My Feedback: (6)

If the truth were known........

No they didn't do it to themselves. However if the whole story were told, you would see it how it really is.


I got the wheel pants from Robert and they were painted.
I have made hundreds of molds, some were painted models, but none, painted or not were damage at all. This has been my experience.


Making the molds of Robert's wheel pants were like all the rest. The were waxed with partall, put into a parting board, held there with a non hardening clay, then waxed again, and sprayed with partall pva release. Following that process the molds are made.


When they were opened there was a wrinkling of the paint right down the parting lint that was from 1/8" to a 1/4" wide. I suspect it is because of the oil based clay possibly but I have never had seen this before. I think it may have been a reaction with the resin and the base coat because the clear was foggy and thin in these areas.
Nevertheless, I wet sanded off the loose paint and checked the red base coats I had checking for a match. I did not have one. I asked Robert what paint he used and told him what had happened and I was offering to repaint and clear them, the lettering on the face was not harmed at all. But Robert said "I have the paint, I'll paint them, don't worry about it. Then he asked to buy a canopy because he ruined the two free canopies that I all ready gave him.
I sent him a new canopy and returned his wheel pants in the wet sanded condition as he shows in the pictures.
All was on the up and up and then he starts slamming me. that I just don't get. I made him the plug for the canopy which took over 45 hrs. a minimum value of $300.00 for free, I gave him two canopies a $100.00 value, for free. Yet he still slams me even after telling me "no problem I'll paint them" I don't get it.


When I got the wheel pants in the begining they were not even finished, there were a few chips in the paint on the mount side that I had to sand just to make the mold. The clear coat was only done on the side that had the lettering, and only a dull fog coat was on the backs to begin with.
If he would had let me, I would have gladly painted them but as I've have said before, he said he had paint and would do it so What else was I to think but that that is all fine.
So you I hope can understand why it makes no sense that he slams me and tell a partial story to make him look like the poor victim and tries to make me look bad.


I think he is just looking for another excuse to not live up to his end of the agreement we had and send me the plans and other items that he promised me for five months. I did the plug and molds all for free in trad,e but receive only promises and excuses from Robert.


Pretty sad he is not a man of his word. Slamming me on top of screwing me really puts it over the top.

WacoNut

Since the bashing has begun I will speak my opinion. Now as an outsider this could be way off base as bits are known from both sides. After all this has now become a public discussion.

I am assuming you built the mold for the canopy at Roberts request as he need a new clear canopy? In doing this you also increased your inventory of molds for producing more canopies to sell from your business correct?

I don't think Robert needed a new set of pants so was the mold being taken from the Pants for Roberts benefit or yours?

This all brings to mind is molds were being taken from a currently produced product to be reproduced for a profit. What would EMHW think about that? I can see making a mold to reproduce a part that I have already purchased for my own use but beyond that it gets very sketchy. Kind of like selling copies of a designers plans, see it all the time.

Opinions will be formed for and against, all one can do is what they think is right and live with that decision.

Ok I should probably have just kept my opinions to myself but it is 2:00 am here and I can't sleep.

frequent flyer

My Feedback: (6)

Anthony

I made molds at his request for a canopy you are correct. I have no idea why he just didn't call the mfg. and buy one if they are available so I assume they are not. I have never made molds of any currently produced parts to my knowledge. The wheel pants mold were made to help out another modeler that had contacted Robert and then myself. He had bought a kit that contained parts for the 46% pitts and the wheel pants of a 58% pitts. He also, as far as I know was lost, as to what to do. He was unable to buy from the mfg the correct wheel pants even though the factory obviously gave him the wrong ones in his kit.
I made a mold from Roberts and then made a set for this other modeler at no charge! He just paid the shipping and loaned me some other parts in trade.
I never made any molds for sale or profit you see. Robert promised me a set of plans and other items that he never delivered for the free plug and the two canopies I made for and gave to him The nice thing he did was loan me his wheel pant to help this other modeler I spoke about..
I really doubt that I personally will ever build this large pitts, frankly I cannot afford such an expensive plane.

I really do not understand why Robert is mad and slamming me. I did only favors for these guys simply to have molds for my personal use. I would sell parts to guys if they are unavailable by the mfg. which as far as I know is the case. Otherwise why wouldn't of these two guys just bought the new parts they needed in the first place?

I also think this was a private matter but since Robert made it public and lied about things I have to defend myself.