Pitts S1-S by EMHW
#5151
John M,
#5153
That's true if you're silver soldering, but with JB weld, it gives you plenty of time to set it up... just rough up both surfaces real good before applying the JB weld... it certainly would give you plenty of thread bite having both the t-nut and loc-nut bonded together; making it more difficult to strip out the threads that's for sure... it was just a thought anyway; I'm sure you will find the appropriate solution for your situation.
John M,
John M,
#5156
Well, adding a piece metal to the back side of the t-nut and drilling / tapping would provide more thread bite, but we were just discussing ways to prevent the screw from coming loose in the t-nut... other than using loctite, bonding a nyloc nut would prevent the screw from coming loose, but may be more work making it than the actual benefits.
John M,
John M,
#5157
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Being as there are opinionated people here, I need one. I want to paint my new 3 blade prop and would like to hear what you think would stick the best. So, have at it, what type and why?
#5158
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Well, adding a piece metal to the back side of the t-nut and drilling / tapping would provide more thread bite, but we were just discussing ways to prevent the screw from coming loose in the t-nut... other than using loctite, bonding a nyloc nut would prevent the screw from coming loose, but may be more work making it than the actual benefits.
John M,
John M,
I've always used blue or red loctite and never had any screws comes lose.
Last edited by drac1; 07-09-2015 at 04:30 PM.
#5159
What did you use on the 2 bladed propeller... it came out nice, how well is it holding up.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 07-09-2015 at 09:54 PM.
#5161
In my limited experience, i use nelsons. When properly prepped, and of course properly applied, you cant get it off. A good mechanical bond. But like Art said, im probably the last one to take advice from.
#5162
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loctite works very well, i use the loc-tite brand blue / red solid push up (Anaerobic) sticks on my automotive repairs.
Well you can't go wrong with an epoxy paint Ace... KlassKote would bond well to wood as well as composite materials, as long as the composite was properly scuffed in preparation... not sure how well it would stick to nylon... being epoxy, it should be tough enough to resist chipping and abrasion / erosion from the speed of the spinning propeller, and if you're going to use the stick on (automotive type) pin-stripping, you may want to use a clear epoxy top coat to lock the pin-strip in place... the KlassKote brushes on and settles to a sprayed like finish, so there's no need to "clean" out the spray gun, unless you want to go very light coats, then spray away, you got plenty of time to clean out the spray gun... if you have an airbrush, that may workout better for small quantity mixes.
What did you use on the 2 bladed propeller... it came out nice, how well is it holding up.
John M,
Well you can't go wrong with an epoxy paint Ace... KlassKote would bond well to wood as well as composite materials, as long as the composite was properly scuffed in preparation... not sure how well it would stick to nylon... being epoxy, it should be tough enough to resist chipping and abrasion / erosion from the speed of the spinning propeller, and if you're going to use the stick on (automotive type) pin-stripping, you may want to use a clear epoxy top coat to lock the pin-strip in place... the KlassKote brushes on and settles to a sprayed like finish, so there's no need to "clean" out the spray gun, unless you want to go very light coats, then spray away, you got plenty of time to clean out the spray gun... if you have an airbrush, that may workout better for small quantity mixes.
What did you use on the 2 bladed propeller... it came out nice, how well is it holding up.
John M,
Actually after speaking with a modeling buddy Nelsons it is. Being automotive paint Nelsons is very tough and should withstand the grass being cut with the prop. And the fact that my buddy just happens to have the two colors I need, as well as primer, and clear coat, may have something to do with it.
#5163
I think it should hold up just fine. After three seasons on my Rearwin Speedster, the paint on the bottom side of the wheel pants isnt even beginning to show signs of wear, and they rub on the grass. Ive tried KK, and had no problems with it, but since trying Nelsons, i never saw any reason to spend the extra on anything else. AND, its almost oderless. Can spray in the house and the wife dont even know. Lol.
#5165
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My buddy uses Nelsons on all the builds he does, and he does a lot for others. I have seen and felt many of them and I think it will be a strong, long lasting product.
#5166
Sorry to hear that Ace... the only reason I like Klasskote is its very similar to the old K&B epoxy paint, which worked very well on PVC and ABS plastics.
Isn't Nelsons a water base marine grade urethane paint... I've heard good things about it; suppose to be very good for painting over fabric covering... adding the crosslinker is supose to improve the paint properties making it a tougher finish.
John M,
Isn't Nelsons a water base marine grade urethane paint... I've heard good things about it; suppose to be very good for painting over fabric covering... adding the crosslinker is supose to improve the paint properties making it a tougher finish.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 07-10-2015 at 03:43 PM.
#5167
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Ok, my bad, it's not Nelson but rather Nason. What is really sad is I must have sprayed a thousand gallons of it when I was in paint and body, but, for some reason I never think of it or get the name right. Maybe I was high at the time for we did not use respirators, we had, just did not use them.
#5168
Ok, that makes more sense... Nason clear coat is used a lot in our hobby because its fuel proof... their color base coat is probably acrylic enamel; its pretty tough, so you shouldn't have a problem, especially with a clear top coat.
You probably could still use that Nelson's though, as the water is just a carrier, once it dries, the urethane is pretty tough as well... but you have to apply your coats within 20 min of each other to get a good bond between coats, otherwise you'll have to scuff between coats if allowed to dry longer, as water base urethane doesn't etch into itself.
I think you'll do just fine with the auto paint.
John M,
You probably could still use that Nelson's though, as the water is just a carrier, once it dries, the urethane is pretty tough as well... but you have to apply your coats within 20 min of each other to get a good bond between coats, otherwise you'll have to scuff between coats if allowed to dry longer, as water base urethane doesn't etch into itself.
I think you'll do just fine with the auto paint.
John M,
#5170
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My friend painted the prop today, ohhhh yeeaaaa, and hopefully Thursday I can put it on. Then I would like to run the Valach up and see how this 3 blade feels on the pull.
#5175
Prop looks very nice... from what I understand, the performance gains of a 3 bladed prop over a 2 bladed prop is small, but the advantage is increased ground clearance because you can turn a smaller diameter 3 bladed prop with equal, or slightly better performance over a larger diameter 2 bladed prop.
John M,
John M,