Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > RC Scale Aircraft
Reload this Page >

Pitts S1-S by EMHW

Notices
RC Scale Aircraft Discuss rc scale aircraft here (for giant scale see category above)

Pitts S1-S by EMHW

Old 07-07-2015, 07:59 PM
  #5151  
John_M_
 
John_M_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by acerc
I have used plastic epoxied to the backside of T-Nut's, drilled and then tapped with the bolt, as a lock before.
That's a good idea too... could even JB weld a nyloc nut to the back of the t-nut... I have had very good results bonding metal to metal with JB weld... all you need is enough strength to resist the friction from the nyloc so it won't twist the nut off and JB weld has a very strong bond... but if its something that is repeatedly assembled / disassembled, loctite is the way to go; nyloc's have a limited number of cycles before they loose their grip.



John M,
Old 07-08-2015, 05:28 PM
  #5152  
acerc
Thread Starter
 
acerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

The only problem I have with attaching a nut to the blind nut is getting the threads to match up perfectly.
Old 07-08-2015, 08:15 PM
  #5153  
John_M_
 
John_M_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

That's true if you're silver soldering, but with JB weld, it gives you plenty of time to set it up... just rough up both surfaces real good before applying the JB weld... it certainly would give you plenty of thread bite having both the t-nut and loc-nut bonded together; making it more difficult to strip out the threads that's for sure... it was just a thought anyway; I'm sure you will find the appropriate solution for your situation.



John M,
Old 07-09-2015, 06:06 AM
  #5154  
FlyerInOKC
My Feedback: (6)
 
FlyerInOKC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 14,113
Received 263 Likes on 231 Posts
Default

With the JB Weld you can at least coat a screw with petroleum and put it thru both nuts while the glue sets.
Old 07-09-2015, 06:26 AM
  #5155  
drac1
My Feedback: (4)
 
drac1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Romaine, Tasmania, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,736
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Why not glue a piece of steel or aluminium behind the nut and once dry, drill through and tap it?
Old 07-09-2015, 09:33 AM
  #5156  
John_M_
 
John_M_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Well, adding a piece metal to the back side of the t-nut and drilling / tapping would provide more thread bite, but we were just discussing ways to prevent the screw from coming loose in the t-nut... other than using loctite, bonding a nyloc nut would prevent the screw from coming loose, but may be more work making it than the actual benefits.


John M,
Old 07-09-2015, 04:17 PM
  #5157  
acerc
Thread Starter
 
acerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Being as there are opinionated people here, I need one. I want to paint my new 3 blade prop and would like to hear what you think would stick the best. So, have at it, what type and why?
Old 07-09-2015, 04:28 PM
  #5158  
drac1
My Feedback: (4)
 
drac1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Romaine, Tasmania, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,736
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by John_M_
Well, adding a piece metal to the back side of the t-nut and drilling / tapping would provide more thread bite, but we were just discussing ways to prevent the screw from coming loose in the t-nut... other than using loctite, bonding a nyloc nut would prevent the screw from coming loose, but may be more work making it than the actual benefits.


John M,
Yep. OK.

I've always used blue or red loctite and never had any screws comes lose.

Last edited by drac1; 07-09-2015 at 04:30 PM.
Old 07-09-2015, 09:37 PM
  #5159  
John_M_
 
John_M_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by drac1
Yep. OK.

I've always used blue or red loctite and never had any screws comes lose.
loctite works very well, i use the loc-tite brand blue / red solid push up (Anaerobic) sticks on my automotive repairs.


Originally Posted by acerc
Being as there are opinionated people here, I need one. I want to paint my new 3 blade prop and would like to hear what you think would stick the best. So, have at it, what type and why?
Well you can't go wrong with an epoxy paint Ace... KlassKote would bond well to wood as well as composite materials, as long as the composite was properly scuffed in preparation... not sure how well it would stick to nylon... being epoxy, it should be tough enough to resist chipping and abrasion / erosion from the speed of the spinning propeller, and if you're going to use the stick on (automotive type) pin-stripping, you may want to use a clear epoxy top coat to lock the pin-strip in place... the KlassKote brushes on and settles to a sprayed like finish, so there's no need to "clean" out the spray gun, unless you want to go very light coats, then spray away, you got plenty of time to clean out the spray gun... if you have an airbrush, that may workout better for small quantity mixes.

What did you use on the 2 bladed propeller... it came out nice, how well is it holding up.


John M,

Last edited by John_M_; 07-09-2015 at 09:54 PM.
Old 07-10-2015, 12:06 PM
  #5160  
R/C Art
My Feedback: (38)
 
R/C Art's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 2,042
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

When it comes time for me to paint I use a foam brush and latex house paint.
I also use Rustoleum and Krylon in rattle cans.
I am also the last man you want to get painting advice from; however, when it comes to nuts and bolts I highly recommend blue Loctite!
Old 07-10-2015, 12:41 PM
  #5161  
stevegauth30
 
stevegauth30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bristol, CT
Posts: 4,002
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

In my limited experience, i use nelsons. When properly prepped, and of course properly applied, you cant get it off. A good mechanical bond. But like Art said, im probably the last one to take advice from.
Old 07-10-2015, 01:42 PM
  #5162  
acerc
Thread Starter
 
acerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by John_M_
loctite works very well, i use the loc-tite brand blue / red solid push up (Anaerobic) sticks on my automotive repairs.




Well you can't go wrong with an epoxy paint Ace... KlassKote would bond well to wood as well as composite materials, as long as the composite was properly scuffed in preparation... not sure how well it would stick to nylon... being epoxy, it should be tough enough to resist chipping and abrasion / erosion from the speed of the spinning propeller, and if you're going to use the stick on (automotive type) pin-stripping, you may want to use a clear epoxy top coat to lock the pin-strip in place... the KlassKote brushes on and settles to a sprayed like finish, so there's no need to "clean" out the spray gun, unless you want to go very light coats, then spray away, you got plenty of time to clean out the spray gun... if you have an airbrush, that may workout better for small quantity mixes.

What did you use on the 2 bladed propeller... it came out nice, how well is it holding up.


John M,
Thanks for the thought on Klass Kote, but for personal reasons not happening. That prop was painted with the Stits and is doing okay, a little tougher would be nice.

Originally Posted by R/C Art
When it comes time for me to paint I use a foam brush and latex house paint.
I also use Rustoleum and Krylon in rattle cans.
I am also the last man you want to get painting advice from; however, when it comes to nuts and bolts I highly recommend blue Loctite!
Please don't take this as anything other than my opinion, but there is something about latex and rattle cans that I just don't like. I know lots of guys that use them and love them just not me. But thank's for offering them up.

Originally Posted by stevegauth30
In my limited experience, i use nelsons. When properly prepped, and of course properly applied, you cant get it off. A good mechanical bond. But like Art said, im probably the last one to take advice from.
Actually after speaking with a modeling buddy Nelsons it is. Being automotive paint Nelsons is very tough and should withstand the grass being cut with the prop. And the fact that my buddy just happens to have the two colors I need, as well as primer, and clear coat, may have something to do with it.
Old 07-10-2015, 02:04 PM
  #5163  
stevegauth30
 
stevegauth30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bristol, CT
Posts: 4,002
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think it should hold up just fine. After three seasons on my Rearwin Speedster, the paint on the bottom side of the wheel pants isnt even beginning to show signs of wear, and they rub on the grass. Ive tried KK, and had no problems with it, but since trying Nelsons, i never saw any reason to spend the extra on anything else. AND, its almost oderless. Can spray in the house and the wife dont even know. Lol.
Old 07-10-2015, 02:16 PM
  #5164  
stevegauth30
 
stevegauth30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bristol, CT
Posts: 4,002
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Actually, its a yacht paint made by systems 3. Not sure if that differs from automotive or not, but i would think its gotta be tough to stand up to salt water.
Old 07-10-2015, 02:19 PM
  #5165  
acerc
Thread Starter
 
acerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

My buddy uses Nelsons on all the builds he does, and he does a lot for others. I have seen and felt many of them and I think it will be a strong, long lasting product.
Old 07-10-2015, 03:37 PM
  #5166  
John_M_
 
John_M_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Sorry to hear that Ace... the only reason I like Klasskote is its very similar to the old K&B epoxy paint, which worked very well on PVC and ABS plastics.

Isn't Nelsons a water base marine grade urethane paint... I've heard good things about it; suppose to be very good for painting over fabric covering... adding the crosslinker is supose to improve the paint properties making it a tougher finish.


John M,

Last edited by John_M_; 07-10-2015 at 03:43 PM.
Old 07-10-2015, 03:55 PM
  #5167  
acerc
Thread Starter
 
acerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Ok, my bad, it's not Nelson but rather Nason. What is really sad is I must have sprayed a thousand gallons of it when I was in paint and body, but, for some reason I never think of it or get the name right. Maybe I was high at the time for we did not use respirators, we had, just did not use them.
Old 07-10-2015, 08:22 PM
  #5168  
John_M_
 
John_M_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Ok, that makes more sense... Nason clear coat is used a lot in our hobby because its fuel proof... their color base coat is probably acrylic enamel; its pretty tough, so you shouldn't have a problem, especially with a clear top coat.

You probably could still use that Nelson's though, as the water is just a carrier, once it dries, the urethane is pretty tough as well... but you have to apply your coats within 20 min of each other to get a good bond between coats, otherwise you'll have to scuff between coats if allowed to dry longer, as water base urethane doesn't etch into itself.

I think you'll do just fine with the auto paint.



John M,
Old 07-14-2015, 05:31 AM
  #5169  
FlyerInOKC
My Feedback: (6)
 
FlyerInOKC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 14,113
Received 263 Likes on 231 Posts
Default

I love it a primer on painting methods in just a few posts! Thank you one and all from us in the peanut gallery!
Old 07-21-2015, 01:37 PM
  #5170  
acerc
Thread Starter
 
acerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

My friend painted the prop today, ohhhh yeeaaaa, and hopefully Thursday I can put it on. Then I would like to run the Valach up and see how this 3 blade feels on the pull.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	005.JPG
Views:	86
Size:	516.4 KB
ID:	2110423  
Old 07-21-2015, 02:59 PM
  #5171  
Melchizedek
 
Melchizedek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Looks sweet. Hopefully the pull will be sweet too!

Kevin
Old 07-21-2015, 06:04 PM
  #5172  
squirrly
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Whittier, CA
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Looks great!! I hope you can pull some stumps with it...Lol

Jeff
Old 07-21-2015, 06:48 PM
  #5173  
acerc
Thread Starter
 
acerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

That is my only concern with a 3 blade, but one can always hope because it will look soooooo sweeeettt sittin up front.
Old 07-21-2015, 07:59 PM
  #5174  
jcflyboy
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Prop looks great Robert,
Craig
Old 07-21-2015, 08:36 PM
  #5175  
John_M_
 
John_M_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Prop looks very nice... from what I understand, the performance gains of a 3 bladed prop over a 2 bladed prop is small, but the advantage is increased ground clearance because you can turn a smaller diameter 3 bladed prop with equal, or slightly better performance over a larger diameter 2 bladed prop.


John M,

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.