Half Scale Nieuport 11
10-24-2015, 03:05 PM
#755
My Feedback: (34)
Art, some good progress. I just got back from a giant scale events in Colonial Williamsburg Va. Under 2 hour drive.
I flew my P-51 for WW-2 but the fun part was taking what you taught me on combat and flying a mock dog fight against a Pup. His Pup was 1/3 and my Fokker D-VII a quarter so we kept it simple. He said it was a blast. So your ripple in the pond continues to expand outward.
I flew my P-51 for WW-2 but the fun part was taking what you taught me on combat and flying a mock dog fight against a Pup. His Pup was 1/3 and my Fokker D-VII a quarter so we kept it simple. He said it was a blast. So your ripple in the pond continues to expand outward.
10-24-2015, 05:07 PM
#757
The really nice thing about this project and choice of color scheme is that once the Linen Solartex is ironed on ..... that's it ...... no painting required - its already the correct color. So for me, it is a great time saver and coupled with the fact that I am not very good or patient painter, gets me a better finished project. Certainly a win win for sure.
10-24-2015, 05:26 PM
#759
I don't feel the cost is out of line when you consider the options and what you have to go through to achieve a comparable finish. I couldn't use anything that has any solvent based materials as my health suffers from over exposure to too many aromatic chemical based things in the past. Solartex and latex paint allows me to continue in this hobby, if I had to use dope and other obnoxious methods to cover and paint my models I'd have to take up model railroading. I have a hard enough time breathing clean air as it is.
Doc
Doc
10-24-2015, 07:57 PM
#760
Senior Member
The really nice thing about this project and choice of color scheme is that once the Linen Solartex is ironed on ..... that's it ...... no painting required - its already the correct color. So for me, it is a great time saver and coupled with the fact that I am not very good or patient painter, gets me a better finished project. Certainly a win win for sure.
There are other far less expensive poly shrink fabric coverings out there that don't need dope or other volatile solvent based paints.
10-26-2015, 04:12 PM
#761
Turtle Report:
....... and then there were two. This concludes the main wing structure ...... almost. The wing joinery system remains. This simply holds the two top wing panels in position so they can be laid onto the center struts and bolted in place. This will probably be a brass tube epoxied into the center bay spars which will receive a short piece of music wire to maintain alignment. The V-strut attachment hardware also remains a vague design in my fertile grey matter.
Time to finish the lower wing tips.
....... and then there were two. This concludes the main wing structure ...... almost. The wing joinery system remains. This simply holds the two top wing panels in position so they can be laid onto the center struts and bolted in place. This will probably be a brass tube epoxied into the center bay spars which will receive a short piece of music wire to maintain alignment. The V-strut attachment hardware also remains a vague design in my fertile grey matter.
Time to finish the lower wing tips.
10-31-2015, 08:43 AM
#762
Turtle Report:
Made a jig (of sorts) to locate the forward spar alignment joiner.
Then made another jig and began drilling, enlarging the hole until it reached the proper size.
A brass tube will be epoxied in the hole in each wing half to receive the 9/32" music wire.
Made a jig (of sorts) to locate the forward spar alignment joiner.
Then made another jig and began drilling, enlarging the hole until it reached the proper size.
A brass tube will be epoxied in the hole in each wing half to receive the 9/32" music wire.
Last edited by R/C Art; 10-31-2015 at 09:03 AM.
10-31-2015, 09:16 AM
#763
Why not use full scale dacron? You would save a ton pf money. Covered an entire 1/4 scale tripe for about $15. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/...n/peelply3.php
10-31-2015, 09:20 AM
#764
I just covered a 1/5 scale J-3 Cub in their "Cub Yellow". I will have to give it at least 2, probably 3 coats of Luster Kote to get the right color & some opaqueness.The color is WAY off &L I can see through the fabric.
There are other far less expensive poly shrink fabric coverings out there that don't need dope or other volatile solvent based paints.
There are other far less expensive poly shrink fabric coverings out there that don't need dope or other volatile solvent based paints.
Solar tex is too expensive for me. I stick with the Dacron. The 60" wide roll x however many yards you want yields great as well.
11-01-2015, 07:44 AM
#767
Senior Member
Nothing wrong with dope. Keeps things tight. Unless the smell gets you. It really is about the best there is. Only Nitrate is volatile, but it is not needed. Just use Butyrate. Adhesion can be done with balsarite or Sig stix it.
Solar tex is too expensive for me. I stick with the Dacron. The 60" wide roll x however many yards you want yields great as well.
Solar tex is too expensive for me. I stick with the Dacron. The 60" wide roll x however many yards you want yields great as well.
There is also "scale" (lightweight) STITS POLY-LITE fabric. That is what I am considering for my 1/3 scale SIG Spacewalker.
11-01-2015, 08:16 AM
#768
Hi Art,
Continuing to follow this; these read better than most kit instruction manuals I've seen! I am interested to see the wing joining system develop... Great craftsmanship as always!
best regards,
Greg
Continuing to follow this; these read better than most kit instruction manuals I've seen! I am interested to see the wing joining system develop... Great craftsmanship as always!
best regards,
Greg
Turtle Report:
....... and then there were two. This concludes the main wing structure ...... almost. The wing joinery system remains. This simply holds the two top wing panels in position so they can be laid onto the center struts and bolted in place. This will probably be a brass tube epoxied into the center bay spars which will receive a short piece of music wire to maintain alignment. The V-strut attachment hardware also remains a vague design in my fertile grey matter.
Time to finish the lower wing tips.
....... and then there were two. This concludes the main wing structure ...... almost. The wing joinery system remains. This simply holds the two top wing panels in position so they can be laid onto the center struts and bolted in place. This will probably be a brass tube epoxied into the center bay spars which will receive a short piece of music wire to maintain alignment. The V-strut attachment hardware also remains a vague design in my fertile grey matter.
Time to finish the lower wing tips.
11-01-2015, 01:20 PM
#770
Turtle Report:
If I could interrupt the cover/finish discussion for a moment (as interesting as it is) ......... There are so many ways to accomplish a task, it would be difficult to list them all. Whatever is in my comfort zone is the way I tend to do things. When the funds are a little tight I look for a less expensive avenue. Dress lining from Joan Fabrics is another inexpensive covering material.
Thanks Greg. If you recall, this is almost like my 1/3 scale N-11, just a little bit beefier.
Back to the "Turtle Report" ......... A brass tube inserted into the spar area and secured with epoxy. Then the tube is cut with a zona saw, the tube ends are cleaned up ready for the joiner wire. The 9/32" music wire is definitely not straight - there are slight bends throughout the wire (and all the other pieces of that size that I have). Apparently poor quality control ....... any how I couldn't get them straight enough to easily be inserted. Nothing like gong flying and then not be able to take a 12" plus wing apart - I am sure a 12 footer wouldn't fit into my Dodge mini van..........so I down sized the music wire to 1/4" and then added a slip fit brass tube. This way the joiner wire will run brass inside of brass - should be trouble free. (I hope that last statement wasn't the kiss of death).
Next up is the rear spar joiner strap .........
If I could interrupt the cover/finish discussion for a moment (as interesting as it is) ......... There are so many ways to accomplish a task, it would be difficult to list them all. Whatever is in my comfort zone is the way I tend to do things. When the funds are a little tight I look for a less expensive avenue. Dress lining from Joan Fabrics is another inexpensive covering material.
Thanks Greg. If you recall, this is almost like my 1/3 scale N-11, just a little bit beefier.
Back to the "Turtle Report" ......... A brass tube inserted into the spar area and secured with epoxy. Then the tube is cut with a zona saw, the tube ends are cleaned up ready for the joiner wire. The 9/32" music wire is definitely not straight - there are slight bends throughout the wire (and all the other pieces of that size that I have). Apparently poor quality control ....... any how I couldn't get them straight enough to easily be inserted. Nothing like gong flying and then not be able to take a 12" plus wing apart - I am sure a 12 footer wouldn't fit into my Dodge mini van..........so I down sized the music wire to 1/4" and then added a slip fit brass tube. This way the joiner wire will run brass inside of brass - should be trouble free. (I hope that last statement wasn't the kiss of death).
Next up is the rear spar joiner strap .........
11-01-2015, 03:56 PM
#771
My response was to a person that had issues with the smell & subsequent respiratory irritation.
There is also "scale" (lightweight) STITS POLY-LITE fabric. That is what I am considering for my 1/3 scale SIG Spacewalker.
There is also "scale" (lightweight) STITS POLY-LITE fabric. That is what I am considering for my 1/3 scale SIG Spacewalker.
Doc
11-01-2015, 05:00 PM
#772
You know art.. I bet the G62 reduction drive would fly that plane at least scaleish..I think it would fly a 1/2 scale DR1 as well.
I had a second or third ? cousin that covered full scales with his wife, and he said the fumes doing that was INSANE. He was supposedly very good at it and he had to just start telling people NO MORE.
I had a second or third ? cousin that covered full scales with his wife, and he said the fumes doing that was INSANE. He was supposedly very good at it and he had to just start telling people NO MORE.
11-01-2015, 05:39 PM
#773
You know art.. I bet the G62 reduction drive would fly that plane at least scaleish..I think it would fly a 1/2 scale DR1 as well.
"scale -ish" isn't exactly the way I like a model to be powered. You're right though, but it would probably be at the lower end of the power requirements.
I had a second or third ? cousin that COVERED full scales WITH HIS WIFE, and he said the fumes doing that was INSANE. He was supposedly very good at it and he had to just start telling people NO MORE.
"scale -ish" isn't exactly the way I like a model to be powered. You're right though, but it would probably be at the lower end of the power requirements.
I had a second or third ? cousin that COVERED full scales WITH HIS WIFE, and he said the fumes doing that was INSANE. He was supposedly very good at it and he had to just start telling people NO MORE.
(sorry but I couldn't resist)
11-01-2015, 08:12 PM
#775
Allan
Once the model is completed, this joiner wire will be an aid in assembly at the field.......
1. The top wing panels will be laid upside down in the grass.
2. The joiner/alignment wire inserted in one wing panel.
3. The second wing panel slid onto the joiner wire and butted up against the first panel.
4. A yet to be fabricated steel joiner strap is bolted to the rear spar of each wing panel, holding the whole top wing together.
5. This allows the top wing to be placed on top of and bolted to the cabanes.
This way I can assemble the model by myself. So yes, it can be referred to "as an anti-rotation pin and something more".
By the way, Rhonda ordered the Windsock Date File for the secret project we were discussing earlier today - it should be here by the end of the week.
Cheers,
Art
Once the model is completed, this joiner wire will be an aid in assembly at the field.......
1. The top wing panels will be laid upside down in the grass.
2. The joiner/alignment wire inserted in one wing panel.
3. The second wing panel slid onto the joiner wire and butted up against the first panel.
4. A yet to be fabricated steel joiner strap is bolted to the rear spar of each wing panel, holding the whole top wing together.
5. This allows the top wing to be placed on top of and bolted to the cabanes.
This way I can assemble the model by myself. So yes, it can be referred to "as an anti-rotation pin and something more".
By the way, Rhonda ordered the Windsock Date File for the secret project we were discussing earlier today - it should be here by the end of the week.
Cheers,
Art
Last edited by R/C Art; 11-01-2015 at 08:16 PM.