Hostetler Stinson Reliant SR-10
#101
Good to hear Anthony. Nothing worse than spending your hard earned money and getting the wrong parts in return only to find out that they wont fix it. Glad theyre making good on it.
#102
Thread Starter
Yes it is,
Mistakes will be made it is how they are handled that matters. They full investigated the issue and resolved it, that is all you can ask.
Later!!
Anthony
Mistakes will be made it is how they are handled that matters. They full investigated the issue and resolved it, that is all you can ask.
Later!!
Anthony
#104
Thread Starter
I have set both wing panels aside and started on the fuselage,
The fuse sides are made up from laminations. There is a full length 1/8" lite-ply fuse side with a 1/4" balsa doubler in the cabin area as well as a 1/64" ply doubler. The balsa goes on the inside and the ply on the outside. I will put a skim coat of wood glue on the pieces and clamp them together until dry. With any luck I will have the basic box fuselage structure assembled this weekend.
The cabin windows and door do not get cut out until the fuse is completely framed up. The structure would be too weak and impossible to keep straight and square. Cutting everything out later is going to be a chore.
Here are a couple of pics, I will post more when both sides are laminated.
The fuse sides are made up from laminations. There is a full length 1/8" lite-ply fuse side with a 1/4" balsa doubler in the cabin area as well as a 1/64" ply doubler. The balsa goes on the inside and the ply on the outside. I will put a skim coat of wood glue on the pieces and clamp them together until dry. With any luck I will have the basic box fuselage structure assembled this weekend.
The cabin windows and door do not get cut out until the fuse is completely framed up. The structure would be too weak and impossible to keep straight and square. Cutting everything out later is going to be a chore.
Here are a couple of pics, I will post more when both sides are laminated.
#106
Thread Starter
Yeah for a 1/4 scale it has a lot of mass.
Still working on the fuselage sides. There are a few ply and spruce pieces that get glued to the sides for holding the landing gear and support the wing. I am also trying to come up with a good plan for joining the two sides together and keeping everything square. I think it is going to require an extra set of hands and some large clamps. I hope the wife is in a good mood tomorrow.
Later!!
Anthony
Still working on the fuselage sides. There are a few ply and spruce pieces that get glued to the sides for holding the landing gear and support the wing. I am also trying to come up with a good plan for joining the two sides together and keeping everything square. I think it is going to require an extra set of hands and some large clamps. I hope the wife is in a good mood tomorrow.
Later!!
Anthony
#107
Ill lend a hand Anthony. On my way....I wish it were that easy. The SR-10 was a rather large plane in full scale. I had the chance to walk around one a few years back and kept thinking how big it was.
#108
Thread Starter
The fuse sides were good and dry so I test fit the firewall and a little sanding and it fit right up. I looked online for the bolt pattern for the engine I will be using and drilled the firewall. After looking over the plans very well it was apparent that the fuse sides tapered back from the firewall to F3. I went ahead and cut the cross braces back to F3 and epoxied the firewall and the landing gear block in place and added the cross braces. Everything measures out good so I will let it cure until tomorrow and start added the remaining cross braces.
Going to spend the evening with the better half watching a movie.
Later!!
Anthony
Going to spend the evening with the better half watching a movie.
Later!!
Anthony
#110
Anthony,
With these big round cowls (mine included), something should fill them up.
Are you planning on a dummy engine ?
Williams Bros has a 1/4 scale but not sure what I will do at 1/3.
Was wondering if the 1/4 could be modified to make it a 1/3.
Kevin
With these big round cowls (mine included), something should fill them up.
Are you planning on a dummy engine ?
Williams Bros has a 1/4 scale but not sure what I will do at 1/3.
Was wondering if the 1/4 could be modified to make it a 1/3.
Kevin
#111
Gee, that's right, I need to get a dummy engine for my 1/5. I'm sure I've talked to others about this, but for the life of me... I can't remember! What is a good one to get for a 1/5?
#112
Thread Starter
No Right or down thrust. 0-0 all the way.
I thought about getting the Williams Bros. 1/4 scale engine. They do look good.
You will find a 1/3 engine is hard to find. Take a look at Fiberglass Specialties.
Later!!
Anthony
I thought about getting the Williams Bros. 1/4 scale engine. They do look good.
You will find a 1/3 engine is hard to find. Take a look at Fiberglass Specialties.
Later!!
Anthony
#113
Looks great Anthony! Man, there is some serious wood in this kit...With no thrust angles built in on the firewall is the fin offset at all? I was surprised to find that's what my Bravo has.
#114
Thread Starter
Hi VJ,
No fin offset either. Will just require some rudder trim and you have to be on your toes with the rudder on take-off and advance the throttle slow.
I should be able to complete the fuse box today. I had ordered the landing gear 2 weeks ago and they still have to arrived. Will have to drop them en e-mail and find out when it is shipping. I also need to decide on a tail gear. I took a look at Centruy Jet but there are many to choose from and not sure which one would fit best. I can always go with the Robart #657, it is what I have on my WACO and it works well.
I really need to be able to have the fuselage up on it's legs to start adding all the fuse formers, stringers etc:
Later!!
Anthony
No fin offset either. Will just require some rudder trim and you have to be on your toes with the rudder on take-off and advance the throttle slow.
I should be able to complete the fuse box today. I had ordered the landing gear 2 weeks ago and they still have to arrived. Will have to drop them en e-mail and find out when it is shipping. I also need to decide on a tail gear. I took a look at Centruy Jet but there are many to choose from and not sure which one would fit best. I can always go with the Robart #657, it is what I have on my WACO and it works well.
I really need to be able to have the fuselage up on it's legs to start adding all the fuse formers, stringers etc:
Later!!
Anthony
#115
Thread Starter
I hate making mistakes,
There is a basswood support that runs along the inside of the cabin top, it has the bottom of the airfoil shape in it. I didn't notice it had to be shaped along the side to match the fuselage contour and you guessed it I glued it in without shaping. After 1/2 hour with a razor knife I removed the pieces from both sides. They were laser cut from 3/8" stock and the plans show 1/2" stock. They are too narrow to get the shape and keep the proper thickness. I did a compromise on the thickness and I will reinforce after installing.
This will really slow things down for today as I will have to epoxy and clamp the pieces to the fuse sides.
Later!!
Anthony
There is a basswood support that runs along the inside of the cabin top, it has the bottom of the airfoil shape in it. I didn't notice it had to be shaped along the side to match the fuselage contour and you guessed it I glued it in without shaping. After 1/2 hour with a razor knife I removed the pieces from both sides. They were laser cut from 3/8" stock and the plans show 1/2" stock. They are too narrow to get the shape and keep the proper thickness. I did a compromise on the thickness and I will reinforce after installing.
This will really slow things down for today as I will have to epoxy and clamp the pieces to the fuse sides.
Later!!
Anthony
#116
Thread Starter
Here are a few pictures showing the issue.
The F12 part on the drawing. Was cut to the proper shape on the side view. I didn't notice the top view. (my fault) The 2nd pic shows the part after shaping. As you can see the outside profile is now correct but the stock was too thin for a proper inside profile.
In the 3rd pic you will see the pieces have been epoxied and clamped in place. I will have to wait for the epoxy to cure before continuing on with adding the cross braces. There is a lot of stress being put on the fuse sides to bend them into position.
Later!!
Anthony
The F12 part on the drawing. Was cut to the proper shape on the side view. I didn't notice the top view. (my fault) The 2nd pic shows the part after shaping. As you can see the outside profile is now correct but the stock was too thin for a proper inside profile.
In the 3rd pic you will see the pieces have been epoxied and clamped in place. I will have to wait for the epoxy to cure before continuing on with adding the cross braces. There is a lot of stress being put on the fuse sides to bend them into position.
Later!!
Anthony
#117
Anthony,
I don't know if you have ever considered a palm router for building planes.
I use one regularly on my builds. Especially 1/4 scale and up.
I don't have this particular router ( I have one a little bigger) if I didn't have the one I have I would get this one.
You would be amazed at all the applications for it once you have one.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSP...+router+plunge
You can get this router without the plunge base for 99 bucks. But I would get it with the plunge, you would be glad you did.
I bring this up cause of your needing to remove wood from a panel with a razor knife.
Meet the wood eraser.
The pick below is just sitting on a full size router but you will get the idea.
First attach an auxiliary base made from wood to your router. Then glue or screw some ski's to the base a little taller than the wood you would like to erase.
Then pass router over wood lowering the bit a little with each pass until you are just a hair off surface. Sand remainder down.
The plunge base is real handy for this.
Just thought you might be interested if you never considered it.
Kevin
I don't know if you have ever considered a palm router for building planes.
I use one regularly on my builds. Especially 1/4 scale and up.
I don't have this particular router ( I have one a little bigger) if I didn't have the one I have I would get this one.
You would be amazed at all the applications for it once you have one.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSP...+router+plunge
You can get this router without the plunge base for 99 bucks. But I would get it with the plunge, you would be glad you did.
I bring this up cause of your needing to remove wood from a panel with a razor knife.
Meet the wood eraser.
The pick below is just sitting on a full size router but you will get the idea.
First attach an auxiliary base made from wood to your router. Then glue or screw some ski's to the base a little taller than the wood you would like to erase.
Then pass router over wood lowering the bit a little with each pass until you are just a hair off surface. Sand remainder down.
The plunge base is real handy for this.
Just thought you might be interested if you never considered it.
Kevin
#118
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tip,
Would be a nice tool to have but it would not have helped me in this instance. The pieces were inside the fuselage and no way to get a router in there. Also I was able to remove the pieces without destroying them. Just a sanding and shaping then glued them back in. No extra Basswood on hand to make new ones.
Later!!
Anthony
Would be a nice tool to have but it would not have helped me in this instance. The pieces were inside the fuselage and no way to get a router in there. Also I was able to remove the pieces without destroying them. Just a sanding and shaping then glued them back in. No extra Basswood on hand to make new ones.
Later!!
Anthony
#121
Thread Starter
My desk at work is full of those clamps, hmmmmm
The main box structure is now complete. The top pieces at the cabin are F13 and F14, these are what the spar boxes get mounted to. I very carefully marked the position of the front piece and used the wing to establish the distance back to the rear brace. This was only about 1/64" different than the plans. These are epoxied in with System Three T-68 Structural Epoxy.
As you will see in the pics the fin is just temporarily clamped in place. The fuse is right at 12" wide at the widest point and will get wider as the formers and sheeting get added. She is a big girl.
Later!!
Anthony
The main box structure is now complete. The top pieces at the cabin are F13 and F14, these are what the spar boxes get mounted to. I very carefully marked the position of the front piece and used the wing to establish the distance back to the rear brace. This was only about 1/64" different than the plans. These are epoxied in with System Three T-68 Structural Epoxy.
As you will see in the pics the fin is just temporarily clamped in place. The fuse is right at 12" wide at the widest point and will get wider as the formers and sheeting get added. She is a big girl.
Later!!
Anthony
#123
My desk at work is full of those clamps, hmmmmm
The main box structure is now complete. The top pieces at the cabin are F13 and F14, these are what the spar boxes get mounted to. I very carefully marked the position of the front piece and used the wing to establish the distance back to the rear brace. This was only about 1/64" different than the plans. These are epoxied in with System Three T-68 Structural Epoxy.
As you will see in the pics the fin is just temporarily clamped in place. The fuse is right at 12" wide at the widest point and will get wider as the formers and sheeting get added. She is a big girl.
Later!!
Anthony
The main box structure is now complete. The top pieces at the cabin are F13 and F14, these are what the spar boxes get mounted to. I very carefully marked the position of the front piece and used the wing to establish the distance back to the rear brace. This was only about 1/64" different than the plans. These are epoxied in with System Three T-68 Structural Epoxy.
As you will see in the pics the fin is just temporarily clamped in place. The fuse is right at 12" wide at the widest point and will get wider as the formers and sheeting get added. She is a big girl.
Later!!
Anthony
#125
My Feedback: (17)
Hi Anthony, I have signed on to your build. I have enjoyed your other builds and I'm sure this one will be very informative. This is the first I have heard of National Balsa. I visited their web site, their full kit prices are reasonable. How is the quality of the sheet balsa, ply and sticks?
Thanks
Rich
Thanks
Rich