Hughes H1 Build
#152
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Hi All!
Hey Mike, that looks like some nice hardware! I'll bet they'll work and hold up that Bonanza with authority! Mine have the same scissors and pins, but on mine both struts are straight so those pins and c clips were on the same side for both pieces, Believe it or not, the c clip side stuck out about a 1/32" further than the other side, making it so one of the doors wouldn't shut flush to the skin! Ahh.. tolerances! Luckily reversing the pins to make a left and right was easy enough. The first part of my system is working well, everything opens and closes well, now i'll start on the inner doors. I realize that my retract setup is not following true scale, but it's what I have to do in order to get a fully flush bottom, when it's flying. Ok... so the pictures are of the opening to the close... Many hours there! Thanks for looking... Bob
Hey Mike, that looks like some nice hardware! I'll bet they'll work and hold up that Bonanza with authority! Mine have the same scissors and pins, but on mine both struts are straight so those pins and c clips were on the same side for both pieces, Believe it or not, the c clip side stuck out about a 1/32" further than the other side, making it so one of the doors wouldn't shut flush to the skin! Ahh.. tolerances! Luckily reversing the pins to make a left and right was easy enough. The first part of my system is working well, everything opens and closes well, now i'll start on the inner doors. I realize that my retract setup is not following true scale, but it's what I have to do in order to get a fully flush bottom, when it's flying. Ok... so the pictures are of the opening to the close... Many hours there! Thanks for looking... Bob
#154
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Hi Everyone!
I'm sure you'll be very happy with your choice, Mike. Robart has been in the business for a long time, and their products are great. I can't wait to see your install, especially that nose gear detail! So today, I sanded the entire fuse and applied a second coat of epoxy. I rolled it with a foam hot-dog roller. I'll sand it again tomorrow, and maybe that will be all. If I feel it needs another, i'll do one more thin coat. Then it was onto the retracts. I built the first inner door, and I think it came out pretty well. First picture shows the rough door. The second picture shows it sanded to the wing curvature, in its closed position. I'm going to set up some kind of stop on the outer door, so that when the inner door closes, i'll hold the outer door down, The third picture shows the cover I made to hide the retract mechanism. I was able to countersink the screws here flush, but I had to use two button heads next to it for the door. Oh well.. I was trying to keep every exterior screw flush on this plane. Thanks again, and have a good night! Bob
I'm sure you'll be very happy with your choice, Mike. Robart has been in the business for a long time, and their products are great. I can't wait to see your install, especially that nose gear detail! So today, I sanded the entire fuse and applied a second coat of epoxy. I rolled it with a foam hot-dog roller. I'll sand it again tomorrow, and maybe that will be all. If I feel it needs another, i'll do one more thin coat. Then it was onto the retracts. I built the first inner door, and I think it came out pretty well. First picture shows the rough door. The second picture shows it sanded to the wing curvature, in its closed position. I'm going to set up some kind of stop on the outer door, so that when the inner door closes, i'll hold the outer door down, The third picture shows the cover I made to hide the retract mechanism. I was able to countersink the screws here flush, but I had to use two button heads next to it for the door. Oh well.. I was trying to keep every exterior screw flush on this plane. Thanks again, and have a good night! Bob
#156
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Hi Again!
Hi Tim, yes I will be using servos to operate the inner doors. I have JR ds390's from my BVM Electra, that survived the crash. They were used for the doors on that jet. They plug directly into the Xicoy controller that sequences the retract and door operation. Thanks for the nice comment! Anyway, today I came up with an idea to keep the outer doors shut firmly. I installed two small magnets under the inner well plywood, that mate to a couple of washers that I installed on the door. It works great! Being under the ply, it weakens the bond between the two so that it's not a problem when they open. Pictures one and two show it. I also glassed the belly pan, and the inner doors. I then thought i'd try some of the flitemetal on one of the stab bottoms. After a good 220 sanding of the whole fuse, I tried it, laying out for three panels on half the stab. Very nice results. Gets a little tricky on the fillet at the fuse, but then again that's always a tricky spot, even with iron on. Well, that's all for today! Bob
Hi Tim, yes I will be using servos to operate the inner doors. I have JR ds390's from my BVM Electra, that survived the crash. They were used for the doors on that jet. They plug directly into the Xicoy controller that sequences the retract and door operation. Thanks for the nice comment! Anyway, today I came up with an idea to keep the outer doors shut firmly. I installed two small magnets under the inner well plywood, that mate to a couple of washers that I installed on the door. It works great! Being under the ply, it weakens the bond between the two so that it's not a problem when they open. Pictures one and two show it. I also glassed the belly pan, and the inner doors. I then thought i'd try some of the flitemetal on one of the stab bottoms. After a good 220 sanding of the whole fuse, I tried it, laying out for three panels on half the stab. Very nice results. Gets a little tricky on the fillet at the fuse, but then again that's always a tricky spot, even with iron on. Well, that's all for today! Bob
#157
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The Flitemetal looks good. I bought Aerofoil to try on my Ryan SC-M/W project. Its a little thinner I thought it might go around compound curves easier. I bought my application tools (Kemper brand) from a local Pottery Supply store it allowed me to choose to my own liking. It also afforded me an opportunity to see what wooden tools were out there I could use for application. I was original going to buy Aerofoil in the 12" width and some in the 6" width but changed my wind and bought all 12" width.
#158
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Hi Everyone!
Hey Mike, yeah I was impressed with the ease of how it goes on, and how it will conform to compound curves. I only used the "stub pencil" that was included in the kit for the burnishing, and that seemed to work well. Cutting the material into the panel sized pieces also eases the process, you don't have to handle a full piece, like you do with iron on, the trickier a spot gets, the more panels you can create to cover it. Probably just like they do on full scale. I look forward to covering the rest of the plane. Today, I had to work late so that didn't afford me much work time on the H1. I did manage to figure out how to hinge the inner doors, after three attempts. The one that worked was the simplest. First picture shows the one I thought would work, but didn't . Second shows the one i'm going to go with. Thanks, All who watch! Bob
Hey Mike, yeah I was impressed with the ease of how it goes on, and how it will conform to compound curves. I only used the "stub pencil" that was included in the kit for the burnishing, and that seemed to work well. Cutting the material into the panel sized pieces also eases the process, you don't have to handle a full piece, like you do with iron on, the trickier a spot gets, the more panels you can create to cover it. Probably just like they do on full scale. I look forward to covering the rest of the plane. Today, I had to work late so that didn't afford me much work time on the H1. I did manage to figure out how to hinge the inner doors, after three attempts. The one that worked was the simplest. First picture shows the one I thought would work, but didn't . Second shows the one i'm going to go with. Thanks, All who watch! Bob
#159
Watching Bob's progress on this build is like watching a really good movie every night. I look forward to seeing what he's done and how he did it.
Duplicating details and the mechanics of the full scale subject is an art that all too often goes unappreciated. I competed in scale with the likes of Mr. Dave Platt some years ago and I know what it takes to produce the results we're seeing with this build.
Thank you, again, Bob, for keeping us informed. It is a pleasure.
Tom
Duplicating details and the mechanics of the full scale subject is an art that all too often goes unappreciated. I competed in scale with the likes of Mr. Dave Platt some years ago and I know what it takes to produce the results we're seeing with this build.
Thank you, again, Bob, for keeping us informed. It is a pleasure.
Tom
Last edited by TangoBravo; 03-09-2017 at 06:13 PM.
#161
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Hi All!
Awesome words of encouragement, Tom I really appreciate it! Yes, Mike the hinges are pinned on the inner doors, they're the Dubro type, the extra large ones. I used the same set up on the inner doors on the jet, and never had a problem. Well today, I took the afternoon to get that first inner door to work flawlessly. It took some time, but worked great when I was done. There are many parameters of adjustment on a servo operated door, and you do have to break it a couple of times, before it works! The first picture shows the servo, mounted on top of the wing, the second and third are the open and closed positions. OK! more tomorrow! Thanks Again, and have a good night! Bob
Awesome words of encouragement, Tom I really appreciate it! Yes, Mike the hinges are pinned on the inner doors, they're the Dubro type, the extra large ones. I used the same set up on the inner doors on the jet, and never had a problem. Well today, I took the afternoon to get that first inner door to work flawlessly. It took some time, but worked great when I was done. There are many parameters of adjustment on a servo operated door, and you do have to break it a couple of times, before it works! The first picture shows the servo, mounted on top of the wing, the second and third are the open and closed positions. OK! more tomorrow! Thanks Again, and have a good night! Bob
#162
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Hi, Good Saturday afterenoon!
I'm going to NYC soon for dinner, so I have to get this post out before my wife makes me get in the shower! I had to make the ends of the struts a little wider, where they go into the retract, so I added some JB weld to them, this morning. I made some forms for them in which to lay the epoxy, lined them with wax paper, then clamped them back together till tomorrow. The first three pictures show this. I realized that if the strut wasn't completely tight in its socket, adjustment would be impossible. I think it'll work. The other two pictures show both inner doors working, closed and opened. Well I'm starting to feel the heat to get ready! Talk to you all tomorrow! Bob
I'm going to NYC soon for dinner, so I have to get this post out before my wife makes me get in the shower! I had to make the ends of the struts a little wider, where they go into the retract, so I added some JB weld to them, this morning. I made some forms for them in which to lay the epoxy, lined them with wax paper, then clamped them back together till tomorrow. The first three pictures show this. I realized that if the strut wasn't completely tight in its socket, adjustment would be impossible. I think it'll work. The other two pictures show both inner doors working, closed and opened. Well I'm starting to feel the heat to get ready! Talk to you all tomorrow! Bob
#163
Just noticed, the inner doors on the H-1 are on the bottom of the leg...not attached to the fuselage...dont cover the whole hole, either...
Evan
Evan
Last edited by pimmnz; 03-11-2017 at 12:50 PM.
#165
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Hi All,
Thanks, Evan, yes I do realize that my inner door setup is not what the original had, making my version not true to scale. As I indicated in posts `106, and 152, I wish I could have figured out the way that Howard's team made those little doors on the end of the main door work, but it's just not practical for rc use. I also thought that if I am going to make some kind of inner door, it'll cover the entire gear well. This project won't be competing in any scale contests, so I'm ok with this setup. Anyway, thanks for noticing, and bringing it to my attention. Hope everyone has a great Sunday! Bob
Thanks, Evan, yes I do realize that my inner door setup is not what the original had, making my version not true to scale. As I indicated in posts `106, and 152, I wish I could have figured out the way that Howard's team made those little doors on the end of the main door work, but it's just not practical for rc use. I also thought that if I am going to make some kind of inner door, it'll cover the entire gear well. This project won't be competing in any scale contests, so I'm ok with this setup. Anyway, thanks for noticing, and bringing it to my attention. Hope everyone has a great Sunday! Bob
#166
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Hi Everyone!
Well It took the better part of the day, but with some patience I was able to get the gear and the doors working perfectly. I had to get everything as close as possible, mechanically, first, then I was able to dial the rest in with the Xicoy programmer. I did get the left door closed completely,(on the video it's open a bit). Thanks Alot for watching! Bob
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUIpOqIEs8E
Well It took the better part of the day, but with some patience I was able to get the gear and the doors working perfectly. I had to get everything as close as possible, mechanically, first, then I was able to dial the rest in with the Xicoy programmer. I did get the left door closed completely,(on the video it's open a bit). Thanks Alot for watching! Bob
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUIpOqIEs8E
#169
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Hi Everyone!
Thanks Mike,Tom! Your comments and support always make my day! Yes I'm very happy with the operation of the retract/door set up, man it was a lot of work! When I installed that same setup into the Electra, the doors, the wells, and the mounting rails were already done. This time every piece was from scratch. I do love a good challenge! Today I don't have anything worthy of pictures, but I final sanded the entire wing and removed all of the retract components. I applied one coat of balsarite. I also applied more flitemetal to the underside of the tail section. Well with the forcast for two feet of snow tomorrow, I'll bet that I can get the wing covered or apply a bunch more metal! Thanks Again for looking! Bob
Thanks Mike,Tom! Your comments and support always make my day! Yes I'm very happy with the operation of the retract/door set up, man it was a lot of work! When I installed that same setup into the Electra, the doors, the wells, and the mounting rails were already done. This time every piece was from scratch. I do love a good challenge! Today I don't have anything worthy of pictures, but I final sanded the entire wing and removed all of the retract components. I applied one coat of balsarite. I also applied more flitemetal to the underside of the tail section. Well with the forcast for two feet of snow tomorrow, I'll bet that I can get the wing covered or apply a bunch more metal! Thanks Again for looking! Bob
#171
I was watching the Weather Channel and when I saw what was heading your way I said to my wife, 'Well, Bob is going to have some shop time to report on."
We've really been lucky here this winter as far as snow storms are concerned. I know we need more moisture, the trees and shrubs are suffering but it sure has been nice to be able to go to the flying field once or twice every week. I'm planning to spend the day flying tomorrow. I have two planes ready and a fresh gallon of fuel. I'll be thinking of you, Bob. Like FIO said, don't pull any critical muscles. Maybe there's a teenaged neighbor who wants to make a buck?
Tom
We've really been lucky here this winter as far as snow storms are concerned. I know we need more moisture, the trees and shrubs are suffering but it sure has been nice to be able to go to the flying field once or twice every week. I'm planning to spend the day flying tomorrow. I have two planes ready and a fresh gallon of fuel. I'll be thinking of you, Bob. Like FIO said, don't pull any critical muscles. Maybe there's a teenaged neighbor who wants to make a buck?
Tom
#172
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Hi All!
Well I'm still here despite 22" of snow and high winds! Thought we'd lose power but it didn't happen. (I already had my contingency plan in place for power at the airplane table, if such a catastrophe had happened!) Anyway, spent the day applying metal to the tail section. I guess that I thought the application was going to be easier, but it takes much patience, re-do's, and time. I found that if your sub skin is not close to perfect, you will see any imperfections. Also, you really need to handle it very carefully, scratches in the surface seemed to appear out of nowhere. You also can't really pull it back up if you find that you don't like a section, this stuff sticks! Crease lines appear where it was pulled up. Please don't get me wrong... I'm very happy with the way the total install looks so far, I guess I thought it was going to be a "perfect" look, but it's more like a weathered, imperfect look. OK, I did find that one of the best application tools was my thumb! Then the #4 paper pencil for the edge burnishing. I then compounded the surface with 3M auto compound. It looks good. The rest should go a little easier, there's not as many compound, or triple compound curves the rest of the way up. That's about all for now!.. A very tired Bob
Well I'm still here despite 22" of snow and high winds! Thought we'd lose power but it didn't happen. (I already had my contingency plan in place for power at the airplane table, if such a catastrophe had happened!) Anyway, spent the day applying metal to the tail section. I guess that I thought the application was going to be easier, but it takes much patience, re-do's, and time. I found that if your sub skin is not close to perfect, you will see any imperfections. Also, you really need to handle it very carefully, scratches in the surface seemed to appear out of nowhere. You also can't really pull it back up if you find that you don't like a section, this stuff sticks! Crease lines appear where it was pulled up. Please don't get me wrong... I'm very happy with the way the total install looks so far, I guess I thought it was going to be a "perfect" look, but it's more like a weathered, imperfect look. OK, I did find that one of the best application tools was my thumb! Then the #4 paper pencil for the edge burnishing. I then compounded the surface with 3M auto compound. It looks good. The rest should go a little easier, there's not as many compound, or triple compound curves the rest of the way up. That's about all for now!.. A very tired Bob
#173
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Hey Tom!
Thanks...but I was too ambitious and went out in it for two bouts of snowblowing and shoveling till I almost dropped! Thank God for the hot tub!! I wish we had flying weather here.... it's not too far off... just got to get rid of all this snow!
Bob
Thanks...but I was too ambitious and went out in it for two bouts of snowblowing and shoveling till I almost dropped! Thank God for the hot tub!! I wish we had flying weather here.... it's not too far off... just got to get rid of all this snow!
Bob
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Hi Again!
Hey Mike, those look like they'll work great! Maybe I'll try to find something similar. I took a little break from the foil today, to further prep the wing for the covering. This includes painting the wheel wells black, sanding the entire wing with 220, because the balsarite raised the grain slightly, and monokoting the underside of the split flaps. I used the Dove gray for the insides of the flaps, the same covering that will be used on the rudder and elevators. I installed small magnets on the two ends of each flap, about midway between the leading and trailing edges. Magnets are in the wing, and washers are in the flap. They are under both plys of each side, then monokoted over. They work great! When it closes, it's just enough to pull it tight, yet not too strong that the servo will have a hard time opening it. Check it out in the video... Thanks A lot for watching! Bob
https://youtu.be/1El4T2fAeMc
Hey Mike, those look like they'll work great! Maybe I'll try to find something similar. I took a little break from the foil today, to further prep the wing for the covering. This includes painting the wheel wells black, sanding the entire wing with 220, because the balsarite raised the grain slightly, and monokoting the underside of the split flaps. I used the Dove gray for the insides of the flaps, the same covering that will be used on the rudder and elevators. I installed small magnets on the two ends of each flap, about midway between the leading and trailing edges. Magnets are in the wing, and washers are in the flap. They are under both plys of each side, then monokoted over. They work great! When it closes, it's just enough to pull it tight, yet not too strong that the servo will have a hard time opening it. Check it out in the video... Thanks A lot for watching! Bob
https://youtu.be/1El4T2fAeMc