Hughes H1 Build
03-23-2017, 06:18 AM
#203
Hi Everyone!
No, no I don't mind at all!, Anyway the building is at a slow stage right now, so I do appreciate the extra info and talk! That's a gorgeous plane, Mike and wow! what a taper in that wing! I'm going to check out that owner's website tonight. How far are you on the build?
So I did manage to complete the fuse metal today, and now onto covering the rudder and elevators to ready them for install. I hate to say it again, but the metal install on that fuse was labor intensive! but it was a labor of love. I'm ok with how it looks and came out, but I wish I could say that it looked incredible..Maybe I'm being too critical... my first boss told me, as I was learning to be a carpenter, that " Bob you build something all day long and you're standing right next to it, sometimes even closer, you need to take a few steps back and look at it from a different perspective." Well I guess that building something like the H1, under bright florescent lights, inches away from it, so close that I need number 2 reading glasses, I need to finish it, put it all together, take that step back, then judge it. Ok, well enough of that kinda talk! I took a couple of pictures.... Hope everyone is Good! Bob
No, no I don't mind at all!, Anyway the building is at a slow stage right now, so I do appreciate the extra info and talk! That's a gorgeous plane, Mike and wow! what a taper in that wing! I'm going to check out that owner's website tonight. How far are you on the build?
So I did manage to complete the fuse metal today, and now onto covering the rudder and elevators to ready them for install. I hate to say it again, but the metal install on that fuse was labor intensive! but it was a labor of love. I'm ok with how it looks and came out, but I wish I could say that it looked incredible..Maybe I'm being too critical... my first boss told me, as I was learning to be a carpenter, that " Bob you build something all day long and you're standing right next to it, sometimes even closer, you need to take a few steps back and look at it from a different perspective." Well I guess that building something like the H1, under bright florescent lights, inches away from it, so close that I need number 2 reading glasses, I need to finish it, put it all together, take that step back, then judge it. Ok, well enough of that kinda talk! I took a couple of pictures.... Hope everyone is Good! Bob
The fuselage came out great Bob! The Ryan SC is a beauty and I blame it for my R/C addiction. The first airplane I ever built was a Comet Ryan SC kit I bought for a whole $1.00 in 1968. I was hooked after that. The Ryan is on hold until my Fokker DR-1 and TF 182 are finished.
03-23-2017, 04:23 PM
#204
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Hello! Hello!
Thanks Guys, and Mike I like the fact that you have models lined up for building! I need to start thinking about my next one, I'd hate to some day not have something to build, or glue together! I think I'd drive my wife crazy in a matter of minutes!
Well today, I monokoted the rudder and elevators, and hinged them. I used 30 min. BSI epoxy, with microballoons, and I like to "stay with" the surface with a q-tip and a small cup of alcohol for about an hour to make sure no glue made its way into the pin. I also installed the little nub that sticks out of the top of the rudder,(not sure what it is), I'll paint it to match. I made it out of a shish ke bob skewer! Finally, I metaled the little cover that incorporates the tail skid door and covers the tail skid mechanics. I just used the flitemetal as the hinge. Ok time to go put a little alcohol on those hinges again! Thank you everyone, sincerely, for the support and kind words. Bob
Thanks Guys, and Mike I like the fact that you have models lined up for building! I need to start thinking about my next one, I'd hate to some day not have something to build, or glue together! I think I'd drive my wife crazy in a matter of minutes!
Well today, I monokoted the rudder and elevators, and hinged them. I used 30 min. BSI epoxy, with microballoons, and I like to "stay with" the surface with a q-tip and a small cup of alcohol for about an hour to make sure no glue made its way into the pin. I also installed the little nub that sticks out of the top of the rudder,(not sure what it is), I'll paint it to match. I made it out of a shish ke bob skewer! Finally, I metaled the little cover that incorporates the tail skid door and covers the tail skid mechanics. I just used the flitemetal as the hinge. Ok time to go put a little alcohol on those hinges again! Thank you everyone, sincerely, for the support and kind words. Bob
03-23-2017, 06:12 PM
#205
Okay, I did some research on the original H1 and discovered that the nub poking out of the rudder was a ' shish ke bob skewer'. So, you're right on the money
Seriously, it's looking better every day. Your talents are consistently impressive. The metal skin is looking so good.
Tom
Seriously, it's looking better every day. Your talents are consistently impressive. The metal skin is looking so good.
Tom
03-24-2017, 01:21 AM
#206
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he he he!! now that's pretty funny! hey, i need to ask a question...what would anyone recommend as a max elevator throw? I have about 1", and don't think it's enough
Thanks, Bob
Thanks, Bob
03-24-2017, 08:54 AM
#208
Bob,
I'm pretty much old school but the new radios can be a big help with a new, untried airplane or design. After getting back into the hobby after a few years away I purchased an ARF. The recommended control surface throws seemed a tad 'light' so I used them as a center, or #2 setting then set my dual rates (actually trio rates) with less than recommended at low position, and more than recommended for my high rate. That way I could experiment to see what gave the best response and maneuverability.
In your case 1" might be right on but depending on other factors it could be excessive or insufficient. Maybe try a 3 position switch for your dual rates and use the 1" for the middle ground. Your maiden flight might be the place to start with that low position, Maybe 1/2 to 3/4" of elevator throw.
Just a suggestion based on my recent experiences with a new, unfamiliar airframe.
Tom
I'm pretty much old school but the new radios can be a big help with a new, untried airplane or design. After getting back into the hobby after a few years away I purchased an ARF. The recommended control surface throws seemed a tad 'light' so I used them as a center, or #2 setting then set my dual rates (actually trio rates) with less than recommended at low position, and more than recommended for my high rate. That way I could experiment to see what gave the best response and maneuverability.
In your case 1" might be right on but depending on other factors it could be excessive or insufficient. Maybe try a 3 position switch for your dual rates and use the 1" for the middle ground. Your maiden flight might be the place to start with that low position, Maybe 1/2 to 3/4" of elevator throw.
Just a suggestion based on my recent experiences with a new, unfamiliar airframe.
Tom
03-24-2017, 04:19 PM
#209
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Hi Everyone!
Thanks,Tom that sounds about right, I did some adjustments today and was able to get about 1 1/4 max, so yes, I'll go with 3/4 for low, 1" for mid and 1 1/4" at max. It's a scale plane, so it should fly looking like the real one, nice and smooth. So today I did get the rudder on, and the only other numbers on it, and started on the rivet work. I'm just using a dressmaker's wheel and carefully running it along the seams. I tested a few other methods, and found this one to be the one I like the best. Once you burnish over them, then shine it with the never dull, it looks pretty real. Ok so that's about all for tonight! Thanks! Bob
Thanks,Tom that sounds about right, I did some adjustments today and was able to get about 1 1/4 max, so yes, I'll go with 3/4 for low, 1" for mid and 1 1/4" at max. It's a scale plane, so it should fly looking like the real one, nice and smooth. So today I did get the rudder on, and the only other numbers on it, and started on the rivet work. I'm just using a dressmaker's wheel and carefully running it along the seams. I tested a few other methods, and found this one to be the one I like the best. Once you burnish over them, then shine it with the never dull, it looks pretty real. Ok so that's about all for tonight! Thanks! Bob
03-24-2017, 04:38 PM
#210
I've never tried a 'dress makers wheel' but I'm sure it's close to a leather workers stitching guide wheel which I use. They come in different stitch widths and remind me of spurs a horseman might use. I have several with different spacing between the 'spikes' that leave the pattern when moved over a surface. I've never tried the aluminum covering sold today for model use but I have used aluminum foil 'duct tape' used by the HVAC industry. It has a peel-off adhesive backing and much heavier than any foil sold for food wrap. The edges need to be sealed against glow fuel intrusion but the adhesive is otherwise almost permanent.
I'm waiting to see how your skin polishes up. Right now it is looking great. Thanks once again for the progress updates.
Tom
I'm waiting to see how your skin polishes up. Right now it is looking great. Thanks once again for the progress updates.
Tom
03-25-2017, 04:27 PM
#212
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Hi All!
Thanks, Chop it's comments like yours that make me confident that I'm doing it right! Tom, I don't think I used the right terminology for that little tool.. I thought that I heard it call that somewhere, but I could be wrong, and I think I am!
When I purchased the flitemetal, I also bought the "Rosie The Riveter" rivet system for 1/4 scale. It consisted of adhesive strips with the little holes cut into them. you apply them to the surface, and dab little spots of glue to each hole, dry, then pull it up. I tried it on a test piece, and it looked ok, but it was much work. The little punch out holes don't all come out, and it just didn't look that good, IMO. It was almost too perfect. He sent that little tool along with the kit, and when I tried it on the test piece, I knew that was it. You just have to be real careful to keep the wheel on track, because once you do it, there's no going back. I made a few guides out of some thin laminate, with a slot cut by a Fein tool with a thin blade. It works very well. Ok well that's all of now... Thanks again for looking! Bob
Thanks, Chop it's comments like yours that make me confident that I'm doing it right! Tom, I don't think I used the right terminology for that little tool.. I thought that I heard it call that somewhere, but I could be wrong, and I think I am!
When I purchased the flitemetal, I also bought the "Rosie The Riveter" rivet system for 1/4 scale. It consisted of adhesive strips with the little holes cut into them. you apply them to the surface, and dab little spots of glue to each hole, dry, then pull it up. I tried it on a test piece, and it looked ok, but it was much work. The little punch out holes don't all come out, and it just didn't look that good, IMO. It was almost too perfect. He sent that little tool along with the kit, and when I tried it on the test piece, I knew that was it. You just have to be real careful to keep the wheel on track, because once you do it, there's no going back. I made a few guides out of some thin laminate, with a slot cut by a Fein tool with a thin blade. It works very well. Ok well that's all of now... Thanks again for looking! Bob
03-25-2017, 05:41 PM
#213
Your 'guide' is a good idea. I've used a straightedge and ran the wheel of the leather stitching tool against it. You are right when you say you get 'one chance'. Get off track or waver a little and you either live with it or replace the covering. There is no hiding mistakes.
As for rivet heads; I couldn't begin to count the hours I've spent with a hypodermic syringe and needle filled with Titebond glue, squeezing, touching then moving on down a penciled line depositing little droplets of glue to duplicate rivet heads. The same can be said for brass tubing sharpened and used to make flush head rivets.
Weathering the leading edge of the wings of a warbird was fun too. An F4-U Corsair that operated from a Pacific island was subjected to coral rock runways and the resultant damage from sand and rock thrown up by the prop. We used Vaseline dabbed onto a Dremel buffing wheel and spread along the wing leading edge which had been previously painted silver. Afterwards the blue paint was spayed on and when dry wiped and everywhere the Vaseline was splattered the blue paint didn't stick and came off leaving bare silver (aluminum) and a war weary, distressed look. Scale planes are fun
Watching yours come together is almost as enjoyable as actually building one.
Tom
As for rivet heads; I couldn't begin to count the hours I've spent with a hypodermic syringe and needle filled with Titebond glue, squeezing, touching then moving on down a penciled line depositing little droplets of glue to duplicate rivet heads. The same can be said for brass tubing sharpened and used to make flush head rivets.
Weathering the leading edge of the wings of a warbird was fun too. An F4-U Corsair that operated from a Pacific island was subjected to coral rock runways and the resultant damage from sand and rock thrown up by the prop. We used Vaseline dabbed onto a Dremel buffing wheel and spread along the wing leading edge which had been previously painted silver. Afterwards the blue paint was spayed on and when dry wiped and everywhere the Vaseline was splattered the blue paint didn't stick and came off leaving bare silver (aluminum) and a war weary, distressed look. Scale planes are fun
Watching yours come together is almost as enjoyable as actually building one.
Tom
03-26-2017, 04:24 PM
#214
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Hi Everybody!
Thanks Tom, that sounds like a great method in replicating the Corsair's weathered wing, I too agree, scale planes ARE fun! I enjoy finding the methods and ways to build them that lead right to what you pictured in the inception of the project. Today, I started on the cockpit for the H1, something that I couldn't wait to get going on, collecting all the pieces, paint, looking at the pictuires of the original, I'm just having a hard time finding a bust of Howard Hughes! Oh well I'm sure there's a way to replicate him! I also removed all the metal from the turtledeck, I wasn't too happy with the way it turned out from the start, and today I had turned the fuse over in the cradle that I made, did some work on the bottom, and when I turned it back up, I realized that the pipe insulation had slipped off the 3/4" plywood rear cradle, leaving some permanent gouges and creases right on top.
Re glass, fill, and do it over. Also installed the ailerons, and metaled the belly pan. Well!, that's about all for today! Hope you all had a great weekend! Bob
Thanks Tom, that sounds like a great method in replicating the Corsair's weathered wing, I too agree, scale planes ARE fun! I enjoy finding the methods and ways to build them that lead right to what you pictured in the inception of the project. Today, I started on the cockpit for the H1, something that I couldn't wait to get going on, collecting all the pieces, paint, looking at the pictuires of the original, I'm just having a hard time finding a bust of Howard Hughes! Oh well I'm sure there's a way to replicate him! I also removed all the metal from the turtledeck, I wasn't too happy with the way it turned out from the start, and today I had turned the fuse over in the cradle that I made, did some work on the bottom, and when I turned it back up, I realized that the pipe insulation had slipped off the 3/4" plywood rear cradle, leaving some permanent gouges and creases right on top.
Re glass, fill, and do it over. Also installed the ailerons, and metaled the belly pan. Well!, that's about all for today! Hope you all had a great weekend! Bob
03-26-2017, 05:05 PM
#215
Bob,
I'm not sure if you know about this movie. A lot of people have never seen it or knew it existed. It was made for TV and aired here in Denver on the old HBO.
Tommy Lee Jones played HH and did a great job; better than what's-his-name- in 'The Aviator'. I have no idea if the movie is available but a condensed version is on YouTube here> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oY-kE-goOA
Fast forward to 38:08. I think that's supposed to be the H1 but looks more like a modified AT6. Hollywood has never been known for accuracy.
Anyway, it is a good movie and Tommy Lee's portrayal of Mr. Hughes works because I think they might have had similar personalities.
Tom
I'm not sure if you know about this movie. A lot of people have never seen it or knew it existed. It was made for TV and aired here in Denver on the old HBO.
Tommy Lee Jones played HH and did a great job; better than what's-his-name- in 'The Aviator'. I have no idea if the movie is available but a condensed version is on YouTube here> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oY-kE-goOA
Fast forward to 38:08. I think that's supposed to be the H1 but looks more like a modified AT6. Hollywood has never been known for accuracy.
Anyway, it is a good movie and Tommy Lee's portrayal of Mr. Hughes works because I think they might have had similar personalities.
Tom
Last edited by TangoBravo; 03-26-2017 at 05:51 PM.
03-27-2017, 06:45 AM
#217
Bob, the one caveat to having projects lined up is you get itchy fingers and want to start another project before you finish the one you re on. I have a Top Flite Cessna 182 and a VK Fokker DR1 going right now. I'm concetrating on the DR1 fior now and once finished I'll go back to the 182 before I start another one. Still, the fingers are itching like crazy! ;-)
03-27-2017, 04:28 PM
#218
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Hello!
Yes Mike, I completely understand the itchy finger syndrome! This project, the H1, is actually a product of that phenomenon! I was about 80% finished with my prior project, the Hostetler Gee Bee, R2, and I swore to myself that I wouldn't touch the H1 until it was 100% complete. Well, I had that plan staring at me, pinned on the wall, I had some wood... so I decided that I'd only cut and assemble the fuse formers...well here I am today ready to start detailing the cockpit, and my wife is still asking, "What happened to that cute little red and white plane you were working on?" They'll both be ready for a Golden Era day at the field this spring! What a great hobby! I think my next project will be back to the turbine arena. I like that BVM 1/6 scale F16, plug and play. We'll see...
Today. I was able to re metal the turtle deck, after some more glass, filler, and a bunch of sanding. This time it came out nice, and only two pieces to complete. I really got the hang of how to apply the metal, at this point, and the applied rivets look awesome! Also, I started on the cockpit, building the balsa main structure. I have made it so it's removable at this point, so it's easier to finish and detail. That's about all for now! Thanks for looking! Bob
Yes Mike, I completely understand the itchy finger syndrome! This project, the H1, is actually a product of that phenomenon! I was about 80% finished with my prior project, the Hostetler Gee Bee, R2, and I swore to myself that I wouldn't touch the H1 until it was 100% complete. Well, I had that plan staring at me, pinned on the wall, I had some wood... so I decided that I'd only cut and assemble the fuse formers...well here I am today ready to start detailing the cockpit, and my wife is still asking, "What happened to that cute little red and white plane you were working on?" They'll both be ready for a Golden Era day at the field this spring! What a great hobby! I think my next project will be back to the turbine arena. I like that BVM 1/6 scale F16, plug and play. We'll see...
Today. I was able to re metal the turtle deck, after some more glass, filler, and a bunch of sanding. This time it came out nice, and only two pieces to complete. I really got the hang of how to apply the metal, at this point, and the applied rivets look awesome! Also, I started on the cockpit, building the balsa main structure. I have made it so it's removable at this point, so it's easier to finish and detail. That's about all for now! Thanks for looking! Bob
03-28-2017, 06:10 AM
#219
It's coming out great Bob! You can keep the turbine projects though I haven't got the reaction times to handle something that fast. I'll stick with Golden Era scale they are more my speed and I have a fighting chance of recovery when the ever popular Dumb Thumbs syndrome kicks in!
03-28-2017, 08:57 AM
#220
I was considering a turboprop in a big Pilatus Porter but the 5 grand for the engine will keep me away. I can buy a lot of Saito 4 strokes and glow fuel for five thousand
Tom
Tom
03-28-2017, 04:27 PM
#222
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Hi Everyone!
Yeah, I know... the $$ for that end of the hobby can be staggering, I guess I look at it as you only live once! I do though, fully enjoy all the contrasts that each different type of aircraft do offer. So today, I went as far as I could with the cockpit, and then decided to get the cowl mounted. I was hoping to mount it like I did the Gee Bee's, with a wood ring glued to the back of the cowl, then screwed to the firewall, but the H1's cowl diameter is much smaller, so I had to fabricate some 1/4" ply "L brackets" that ended up being about 85 degrees, to compensate for the cowl curvature. I temp tacked them onto the cowl to a line, marked to consider the prop clearance. They were screwed into the firewall, and when I was satisfied with the alignment, and the cooling opening at the rear, I glued some scrap balsa next to them to locate exactly where they were to be permanently epoxied in. That's it! Hope you're all doing Well! Bob
Yeah, I know... the $$ for that end of the hobby can be staggering, I guess I look at it as you only live once! I do though, fully enjoy all the contrasts that each different type of aircraft do offer. So today, I went as far as I could with the cockpit, and then decided to get the cowl mounted. I was hoping to mount it like I did the Gee Bee's, with a wood ring glued to the back of the cowl, then screwed to the firewall, but the H1's cowl diameter is much smaller, so I had to fabricate some 1/4" ply "L brackets" that ended up being about 85 degrees, to compensate for the cowl curvature. I temp tacked them onto the cowl to a line, marked to consider the prop clearance. They were screwed into the firewall, and when I was satisfied with the alignment, and the cooling opening at the rear, I glued some scrap balsa next to them to locate exactly where they were to be permanently epoxied in. That's it! Hope you're all doing Well! Bob
03-28-2017, 04:51 PM
#223
Bob,
Back in post #102 we see the radial mounted on the test bench but I don't see any mention of how it runs for you. Maybe I missed it.
However, there was a local club member at the field a couple of days ago with a FW-190 with that engine. I couldn't believe how good it sounded. It was awesome idling but in the air it had this beautiful multi-cylinder sound that had all of us standing and watching/listening. I think you're in for a pleasant surprise when the H-1 is in the air for the first time.
The cowling is looking as good as the rest of the build. How about some cockpit photos. I always loved building instrument panels and other cockpit details. I used to like to make things look 'used' and as if the plane had seen some hours in the air. When everything is new and shiny it just isn't as realistic as when it looks like a pilot has spent some time moving and touching things. Worn paint, boot scuffed floor mats, nicks and scratches all add to the realism.
But, I'm preaching to the choir here, aren't I? Sorry.
Tom
Back in post #102 we see the radial mounted on the test bench but I don't see any mention of how it runs for you. Maybe I missed it.
However, there was a local club member at the field a couple of days ago with a FW-190 with that engine. I couldn't believe how good it sounded. It was awesome idling but in the air it had this beautiful multi-cylinder sound that had all of us standing and watching/listening. I think you're in for a pleasant surprise when the H-1 is in the air for the first time.
The cowling is looking as good as the rest of the build. How about some cockpit photos. I always loved building instrument panels and other cockpit details. I used to like to make things look 'used' and as if the plane had seen some hours in the air. When everything is new and shiny it just isn't as realistic as when it looks like a pilot has spent some time moving and touching things. Worn paint, boot scuffed floor mats, nicks and scratches all add to the realism.
But, I'm preaching to the choir here, aren't I?
Sorry.Tom
03-29-2017, 07:46 AM
#225
Hi Everyone!
Yeah, I know... the $$ for that end of the hobby can be staggering, I guess I look at it as you only live once! I do though, fully enjoy all the contrasts that each different type of aircraft do offer. So today, I went as far as I could with the cockpit, and then decided to get the cowl mounted. I was hoping to mount it like I did the Gee Bee's, with a wood ring glued to the back of the cowl, then screwed to the firewall, but the H1's cowl diameter is much smaller, so I had to fabricate some 1/4" ply "L brackets" that ended up being about 85 degrees, to compensate for the cowl curvature. I temp tacked them onto the cowl to a line, marked to consider the prop clearance. They were screwed into the firewall, and when I was satisfied with the alignment, and the cooling opening at the rear, I glued some scrap balsa next to them to locate exactly where they were to be permanently epoxied in. That's it! Hope you're all doing Well! Bob
Yeah, I know... the $$ for that end of the hobby can be staggering, I guess I look at it as you only live once! I do though, fully enjoy all the contrasts that each different type of aircraft do offer. So today, I went as far as I could with the cockpit, and then decided to get the cowl mounted. I was hoping to mount it like I did the Gee Bee's, with a wood ring glued to the back of the cowl, then screwed to the firewall, but the H1's cowl diameter is much smaller, so I had to fabricate some 1/4" ply "L brackets" that ended up being about 85 degrees, to compensate for the cowl curvature. I temp tacked them onto the cowl to a line, marked to consider the prop clearance. They were screwed into the firewall, and when I was satisfied with the alignment, and the cooling opening at the rear, I glued some scrap balsa next to them to locate exactly where they were to be permanently epoxied in. That's it! Hope you're all doing Well! Bob
Mike