VUE

Hello,

Does anyone have a diagram of the actual Fokker E.III turnbuckles or are they available commercially at 1/6 scale or at no more than 1 inch long? The 1/4 scale ones are too big. I have been to Sava Cable and they may be my only choice. I need actual working turnbuckles for all the rigging to true up the lines and a little pully for the wing warping

Model has a 64 inch span and is 1/6 (GI Joe) scale. The landing gear is built, mechanically at least, just like the real deal with bungee shock absorbtion. The oval alluminum tubing has tight fitting steal wire filled with epoxy and has brass bushings at joints with acorn nuts on the axel ends. But I am at a standstill for the turnbuckles. Help, someone.

Otherwise check out the pics. It is a balsa fuselage with a light ply wingbox and cowl frame. The wings come off like the real one and are balsa/sitka spruce combination (spruce rib caps and spars). It will feature all pull/pull linkages as well as the bungee rear tail skid.

Also does anyone have a 4 stroke engine size suggestion? Will be covered with doped silk.

New Question: What would be the engine offset for the .40 to .50 size 4-strokes for the E.III?

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Good luck with your search. You might contact Glen Torrence of GTM. and see what he knows. Im guessing you have already looked at what Proctor has to offer?

buzzard bait

Vue, what a beautiful piece of work! The aluminum tubing is a very interesting approach to the landing gear. Think it will be strong enough? I guess the bungee suspension will help. Sounds easier than bending and soldering the whole thing in music wire.

I love the scale like rib structure with the cross braces. Will you use wing warping?

For four strokes .5X sizes are very common on 1/6 VK WWI planes, but yours looks so light that the OS .40 or the new Saito .40 would certainly provide plenty of power for scale-like flight. I would try to figure out how much weight you need in the nose. It would be a shame to put a heavy engine on that beauty and then have to add tail weight. On the other hand, if you need the weight of a .5X then you could use it to swing a larger, more scale like prop.

As BobH says, have you checked out Proctor for turnbuckles? Last I knew they had the size you want.

Thanks for the pics--please keep 'em coming! Jim

gut

Hey Vue, nice work! I'm just wondering if your E.III is kit build or from plans... please elaborate. I'm very interested in doing one at this size.

VUE

I scratch built it form 3 views and lots and lots of photos. I am still in the process of finishing the plans in Adobe Illustrator, but I have enough of the plans completed to print out in sections to get to this point. I have another wing ready to be built lighter than this one and a bit more scale in the leading and trailing edges; most of the strength in the wing is in the rigging so I am hoping it will be strong enough. My goal is to make it as scale appearing as possible; rib count, etc. The wing is built up in a cradle-jig and it goes together fast. The current wing has all sitka I-beam with sitka/balsa combo leading and trailing edges and balsa jibs with sitka caps. My lighter version will have only 4 - 1/8 x 3/8 sitka spruce spar caps [ 3/16 sq balsa between to complete the I-beam ] ) with the rest balsa including balsa rib caps so I think I will be using the anti-compression bars at the rigging points which also will accomodate the rigging attachment just like the real deal. Balsa is used on the full flying tail surfaces with sitka spruce ribs; ribless with caps only.

Unfortunately, I am not going to make the metal cowl this time and am just going to build it up and finish it with a burnished metal looking top-coat.

VUE

And yes, I am going to cover it and fly it as this is my first attempt back into the hobby in 20 years.

Depending on weight it will be between the 40 and 70 OS 4-stroke. The 70 will require a bit of the firewall cut back on the center bottom as the 70 is a bit larger on the bottom rear than the 40; but that's okay.

I will probably do the 70 4-stroke as it will allow me to swing the more scale 14 inch prop.

The gas tank has to be custom built out of solder-tin and slipped up right behind the firewall.

Opinions here anyone... is doped silk (painted) a good idea?

What's the most realistic commercial covering?

VUE

Oh, and by the way... CafeenMan on another post pointed me to these turnbuckles by proctor. These are the ticket!

http://leadingedgehobbies.com/oscomm...sort=1a&page=3

These are the smallest of three sizes.

Now I just need the micro-pulley.

VUE

The wire in the tubing (packed with epoxy) will make it stong enough; I hope. The weak part is where the tubing is flattened where it is jointed with brass bushing and either 4-40's or 2-56's as there is no wire in that flattened part. Those parts bent easily alone but when it got together and they were all working against each other the ability for them to bend there was eliminated.

The tail skid will be mechanically scale also.

I would like to make a more scale LOOKING landing gear, however no torch or drill press or other tools needed. This one was a proto-type to understand the mechanical functionality. It can be made with a hand drill and other basic tools. Bushings in the hinged areas are critical for freedom of movement and friction reduction. The brass bushings are such that the bolts tying it all together can be tightened without clamping down and stopping the articulation.

As for strength... I held it up and dropped it on the table from about a foot while keeping the tail up and the shock absoption worked well as it sponged up all the impact

jetranger-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

VUE I have the Balsa USA at 68 inch and fly with an old Satio 45 with 14-4 prop the 70 is over kill try the OS52 fs or some thing around there. I also tried an old OS61fs and it was too much mine is 6 pounds even

VUE

As for the engine... the smaller .4x or .5x is probably the right choice as my goal is for lightness and the 14 inch prop.

Yes, it will have wing warping.

Does anyone have any ideas on how much up/down warp travel there should be.

Uncovered the wing is very flexible in respect to twisting so the warping will not be a problem unskinned but after it is covered I imagine the twistability will be less and I don't want to wrinkle the covering, etc.

what's the best thing, scale-like, to cover it with? Using dope is not a problem, don't mind that idea. Suggestions?

gut

Hi VUE, I'd be interested in seeing your plans as done on Adobe Illustrator. As I am thinking on doing an Eindecker at this scale and I think what you have done is the direction I should go.... Your work as seen in the pics is excellent.

I would think for a scale like covering that Sig Koverall would be the way to go.. It is inexpensive, uses the same technique as silk/dope covering and has a controlled shrink factor..(more heat more shrink).

I would think that if you can get a 1/4 inch twist at the wing tip cord, this would be sufficient change in wash-out to give effective control response at your wing span.

For power I might consider a saito 56 swinging a 14" in prop.

Please keep us update as to your porgress (including pics) and please let me know if you would be willing to share your plans

Gut

VUE

I have a few sets of plans to give away to potential test pilots. Email me. Thanks.

Hey, here's a detail of the landing gear assembly.

stefanP

My Feedback: (2)

VUE nice job .For covering I'd use solar tex or world tex.Very easy to put on.Dosen,t require dope.But if you want to keep it real taught you could put on a lite coat.Covering can be purchased on line from BALSA USA.I have used it on my 80"Taube.Also accepts paint very easyly. stefanP

VUE

A scratch built Taube? How functionally scale? Turnbuckles would break the bank... I got a 3 view of that thing... I love that plane! Wouldn't even know where to start when it come to building it though.

VUE

Uploaded close-ups of the landing gear assembly and converted all photos to higher res. See them in the top post... thanks.

Eindecker111

Hi VUE,
Slightly off subject!
Thats some good looking model,it has tobe one of my all time favs,must have built afew,with a Proctor kit ready and waiting.
I understand you have built her from drawings,and i was wondering if you had any pictures showing decal schemes,i am trying to find details regarding the E111 with the all black rudder,and on fuselage, black and white angled side stripe,with black cross in white portion ,and if the black/white band went over the top of fuselage.
Any help or suggestions would be very welcome

Many thanks

Eindecker

angelspushing

heres a couple pics of my cowels (cheek cowels in this case) for my eindecker. i made them out using balso ribs tapering in both directions as it is compound curved. then sheeting with 1/64 balsa , then filling with lightweight spackle, then fiberglassing outside, then sanding and priming, then the helliish aluminum paste technique i worked on trying to develope. so i could actually burnish it with a dremmel.

angelspushing

by the way, anyone have a picture or ideal of what the wing attachment points for the flying wires look line on a Fokker EIII? Are they posts with eyelets or just circular eyelets or angled tabs bent to direction of the wire like is most common?
thanks

Lucky Dog

My Feedback: (1)

Nice job on the cheek cowls! The burnishing looks perfect.
I've got a friend that's getting close to finshing a scratch built 1/3 scale E-1. I don't thing he's settled on a method yet for the cheek cowls though. I'll make sure he sees yours.

Below is a pic of the test flight last fall. More can be seen at [link=http://www.bealmear.com/dawn_patrol/fokker_e-1.htm]RCDP Project-E1[/link]



Thanks!

The PIPE

Dear Lucky Dog:

The PIPE here once more-and check your Email...you've NOW got a photo of THE ORIGINAL Fokker Eindecker "E.1/15" (piloted by Leutnant OTTO PARSCHAU way back in 1915), courtesy of Peter Grosz, in your Inbox!

Hope you can use it to "finish" the appearance of YOUR one third scale Eindecker....and I just hope that photo file is NOT "too big" in file size...I just did not have the time (OR reinstalled software to convert it-got a new 36 gigabyte hard disk installed within the last month in my PC) to convert it into a JPEG for you-sorry if it IS a bit "big"!

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE!

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Turnbuckles are available from Proctor and also Hobby Lobby. Any of the fabric coverings would be good. I recommend Solartex from Balsa USA (Linen, satin finish) as it is the closest I have found to be the color of doped linen. Good references are Fokker Eindecker in Action publication and Windsock Data File on the Early Eindeckers. All your answers are found in those two documents. My name is Art Shelton and I am the one building the 1/3 scale Fok E-1. It is an interesting subject!

The PIPE

Dear R/C Art:

The PIPE Here once more, and WHOOPS, I forgot YOU were the builder of Otto's E.1/15 in one third scale...now YOU have the same Peter Grosz photo of that plane in YOUR inbox!

By the way, I've also let you know that HANK ILTZSCH, who's now beginning to post in threads here at RCU (his replies on his 1920's era Dormoy Bathtub RC Scale aircraft are in the thread at http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/sour...1456448/tm.htm near the END of that thread...and I posted in there, too)...NOW knows about your RC Dawn Patrol organization, and you've also got his Email address in that message I've sent you as well!

I'll be getting Hank's plans for HIS Bristol Scout D RC Giant Scale model from the AMA magazine, most likely in March 2004, for later building up of the Bristol Scout C No. 1611 that the RFC's Lanoe Hawker piloted only a WEEK before Kurt Wintgens' first Eindecker victory of July 1st, 1915...and I've also got Windsock Datafile No.44 for the documentation to build it from, AND to modify Hank's model construction plans into the earlier Scout C version!

Just thought I'd let you know that NOW you've got an actual PHOTO of Otto Parschau's E.1/15 aircraft, courtesy of Peter Grosz...and that I sent along to you just today!

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE!

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Art here again. I forgot to mention that my 1/3 scale E-1 is loosely based on the 1/4 scale Bob Holman plans for the Eindecker E-III. The "undercarriage" details are very nicely illustrated. On your smaller scale project, I suspect that simple soft soldiering would be adequate to reproduce the landing gear to be scale, functional and strong enough. You have done very nice work so far. I bent my gear out of music wire in 1/4 and 3/16 inch sizes. There are not sprung, but are adequate to land the 37 plus pounds of airplane. Wing warping on mine is about and inch and a half each direction, maybe a little less. It is affective but rather slow. I turn with both rudder and aileron, uh I mean wing warping. The wing warping is more importantly used to level the plane after a bank. The rudder tends to not want to level the plane very well because of lack of dihedral. The controls on elevator and rudder are very responsive otherwise. I had seven flights on mine last fall, then dissassembled it and have been trying to finish the scale appointments and do some painting and marking and stuff......is a scale airplane ever finished?

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Hey Dave the pipe, you were right about the Windsock Data file on the Early Eindeckers. I wish I had that publication before I stared framing 4 years ago! I bought it on your adivce and am very pleased with the info and pics by Peter Grosz. It has good 3 views and close up pictures of the pylon that the wires attach to and also close ups of the bellcrank and landing gear that the flying and wing warp wires attach to. Good info for the scale builder!

Dsaydak

I just received a CD of the Eindecker in Detail. It is a fabulous source for documentation at a give away price. I highly recommend it to anyone interested in this aircraft.

http://www.collectors-edition.de/QAU...-6_english.htm

Dennis