k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Dean, yes I have used Windex before to "float" panels on. It works very well but it will take longer for the panel to completely adhere to the surface. On [link=http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=291&PN=3]RCScaleBuilder.com [/link] I did a short tutorial on applying Flite Metal, creating simulated rivets and screws, and creating simulated hatches and access covers. It may help with any questions.

As far as scratching and denting, I do take precautions to prevent these from happening with any airframe I am working with, be it Flite Metal covered or painted. I always use a foam stand to lat the airframe on. I cover the areas of the foam stand that come in contact with the airframe with soft cloth. I remove my watch and wedding ring and I never use a metal straight edge. The tutorial I gave the link for shows how I cut my panels.

Peter, yes it is my Mustang in the above photos. THe following are the steps I follow for a brushed, weathered aluminum look:

The first step is to wet sand the entire airframe with 320 grit after all of the metal panels have been applied. You can sand in any direction you want. As you start to sand you will notice the surface looks a little like orange peel so the goal is to get rid of the orange peel look. This will dull the metal down quite a bit. Next, you wet sand the entire airframe with 400 grit going in one direction. Then mask off a few panels and wet sand those with 400 grit going perpendicular to the previous direction. Wet sanding with 400 grit makes the metal look more like brushed aluminum. Sanding in the different directions helps the panels reflect the light differently. You could do all of the sanding using 400 grit but it would take a lot longer and much more elbow grease to get rid of the orange peel. To my knowledge, the wet sanding technique was first used by Joe Grice on his award winning F-100.

The second step is to apply all of the rivets and screw.

The third step is to paint the painted areas and apply all of the decals.

The fourth step is to lightly rough up the decals and painted areas with steel wool. Then spray Lusterkote flat clear over the decals so the weathering (explained in the next two step) will stick and give consistent look.

The fifth step is to recreated a rain streaked, stained look. I do this with paint (I only use water based acrylic or latex paints). This technique was introduced by Dave Platt many years ago. On the Mustang pictured above, I used Burnt Umber diluted with water until it looks like colored water. I use an air brush and spray a mist onto a section of the airframe, let use the left wing as an example. Then I take a wet paper towel and I wipe the paint mist in the direction of flow, in this case, from leading edge to trailing edge. I keep wiping until I am satisfied with the look. If you want a lot of staining, wipe lightly, if you want less staining wipe a litlle harder and go over the same area more than once. I do this over the entire airframe.

The sixth step is to use black artist chalk in the panel lines and rivets. The artist chalk comes in hard, stick form so I use an exacto blade and scrape it. This gives a fine powder. I use a small paint brush and dab the powder into the panel lines and rivets and then I use my thumb to wipe away the the powder in the direction of flow.

The final step is to seal the airframe with flat clear.

Kirk

Peter G.

Thanks for the detailed description on how you weathered your plane. You did a great job. Just for curiosity how did it fly?. I always seem to have trouble flying something I have spent a lot of time on. Again, good job and thanks for the info, you have given me some more idea's.

Peter

ADSala

My Feedback: (2)

Kirk,
Excellent tutorial on Flite Metal. Thanks. Just in time too. I've just started the bottom stab on my P-47. It's coming out great. Great thread Peter. Thank you too.


Dean

FliteMetal

Hi Dean:

One thing to remember is to "always" begin adhering the aluminum in the "center" of the panel using your index finger out to the perimeter of the panel moving your finger in a circular motion in concentric circles moving outward to the edge of the panel.

When completely adhered in the above manner...use the soft burnishing tool to gently, and I do mean gently press the "side" of the burnishing tool along the surface. When you have completely covered the surface...you are done. Most people spend too much time on each panel. To be honest, as long as it takes to adhere with your index finger, then press out with the side of the soft tool once... you are finished with the panel.

Joe Grice covered an F-100 fuselage in eight hours last month. Finishing the individual panels is going to take a moment or two longer per panel once you get the technique down. Remembering it is how and not how much...that matters. I'd like to see some digital images after you get along a little.

Ed

tom czenthe

Used flight metal a few times ....very good results

ADSala

My Feedback: (2)

Here are some pictures of my job so far. I've been really taking my time. I found that Goof Off really works good for removing adhesive balls. No rivets or scuffing yet.

Dean

parabellum

lookin good! is this flite metal? or something else?


I'll post photos of my top flite p-47D 1/8 scale asap.

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Dean:

Your doing a great job. Once you've completed the rivets and scuffing, you'll be amazed at the transformation. Keep up the work!!

ADSala

My Feedback: (2)

parabellum,

Yes I'm using Flite Metal.

Dean

FliteMetal

Hi Dean:

Excellent covering of the supercharger exhaust! You are doing an excellent job! I'm going to post these images in our customer examples section...if you don't mind.

http://www.scaleaero.com/fmexamples2.htm

Would you like to do a short write up on covering the exhaust strack? I am about to add another page to our instructions and would like to include these photos & description of the application process. You covered it in two pieces left and right of the center line. Two pieces can be conbined into a single panel or forge formed shape as is seen in the supercharger exhaust outlet. Where the two panels meet...sand at a 45 degree angle then at a 90 degree angle across the two panels with 200 grit. Do not scratch through the panels, simply rough them along the seam. Switch to 300/400/600, then use the acrylic burnishing tool to reconstitute the aluminum into a single panel. Finish the process by using 0000 steel wool and you end up with a single gorge stamped exhaust outlet.

Practice this in a small area to see how easily it is done.

parabellum

more photos of top flite 60size p47D with off the ebay 2mil aluminum foil tape.

abufletcher

That beautiful covering job just begs to be color-correction, so here it is...