bdphil

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I need some suggestions for finishing the trim on my AT-6 project. So far I've been taking ideas from several planes, but I'm kind of stuck on a few decisions. I'm not trying to build an exact scale model, just a model with some scale features if that makes sense. Here's a few pics of where I'm at now. I'm gonna paint the stars/bars marking on the wing and fuse for sure. I'm also gonna paint the black anti-glare area on the front of the fuse and black walkways on the wing. What I'm not sure about is whether to paint the entire tail red or just the control surfaces? I was also thinking of a red band around the turtledeck area and maybe some red bands around the wing? I was originally gonna paint the top of the wing yellow with red bands, but I've pretty much decided against that. I would like to leave a good deal of the flitemetal aluminum bare, but I need enough color to stand out.

I do need to do something about the fact that the ailerons are fabric and need to be painted, but I don't think I can match the aluminum color well enough to just paint them? I need some way to incorporate a painted aileron into the outer wing panels. I think painting the outer parts of the wing (from the inboard edge of the aileron to the tip) would look kind of silly, but what else can be done?

As you can probably tell; I can do the mechanical part of painting, it's just the creative part that I'm terrible at. Any suggestions would be very helpful!

Thanks,
Ben

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Outer wing panel with aileron:

Old Shep

Nice looking airplane. As an owner of an SNJ, I'm partial to the pre-war Pensacola paint scheme of chrome yellow wing upper surface, red bands on wings and fuse, red cowl, and red tail...fuse is natural metal as is the underside of the wing. That would leave quite a bit of your flitemetal showing...Another T-6 I flew a few times had a red cowl as the only color...big black "buzz number" on the fuse under the canopy (N36)...rest of the airplane was all silver/natural aluminum. You are gonna have to paint the control surfaces with aluminum paint anyway...
For what its worth.
Old Shep

JeffH

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the fabric control surfaces were doped silver when new. They did not match the natural aluminum at all. Go get you some Sig silver dope and paint away!

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Thanks, guys. I was thinking of using some Sig silver dope. I'll have to pick some up and try it. If it gives me a decent match (or at least looks good), that would save me some trouble coming up with trim ideas.

Shep,

I like the yellow too, that was the trim I was thinking about all along until I realized how nice the aluminum looks on its own. Speaking of the natural aluminum, is that really what the full scale is? Bare metal, or does it have some sort of clearcoat on it? It's hard to tell from the pics I've seen. I did some test pieces of flitemetal with clearcoat (flat and gloss), but I didn't like it as well as the bare metal.

Ben

repairman87

Wow! Who makes that kit?

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

It's a Midwest 1/6 scale kit.

I got the black bits painted yesterday, probably work on some markings today. Once the markings are done, I'll hopefully have a better idea of how to finish out the trim colors.

I really screwed up with the flitemetal I think. I read another thread about how to prep the bare metal before adding rivets. I just used the scuffing pad supplied with the FM and others suggest wetsanding with 400 paper. That would have given me a much better surface than I got. I was thinking of doing that, but for some stupid reason decided not to. Had I sanded instead of scuffing, I would have been able to use a flat clear (or even gloss) and had a nice even finish. As it is now, clearing the FM will look bad with clearcoat (I tried a few test pieces both ways). I think I'm too far along to redo it now, but if the FM corrodes or something I'll probably have to resurface it. Oh well, there's always the next model.

Ben

Old Shep

Ben:
The aluminum on the SNJ's during the war were never treated or polished...the aluminum dulled as the airplanes sat outside and were used. Restored versions generally are painted aluminum/silver as it is a real pain to try to polish metal (I speak from experience here!) My airplane is painted, chrome yellow, bright aluminum, insignia red are the primary colors...I built a Midwest version too, but was disappointed at my results. I painted and marked it as its big brother, but it just isn't very "scale"...Yours looks really good, however. Good luck with it.
Old Shep

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Thanks for the compliment, Shep. I agree that the Midwest kit isn't very scale. I had to scratch my head a few times when using the 3-views to lay out the panels/rivets. I'm calling this model "my interpretation of the full scale AT6". I'll see how this plane holds up and may decide to rework it down the road. For now, I'll just be happy to finish this project.

Ben

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Ben, what possible better way to get a 'weathered' finish than to let the aluminum naturally oxidize?

http://images.google.com/images?q=No...=Google+Search

Steve Collins

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Try these:

Steve Collins

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More:

Steve Collins

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More:

Steve Collins

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Last one:

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Go to web site http://www.100megspopup.com/photo4ph...t/at6list.html, excellent selection of various schemes.

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Thanks to all for the pics and links! Very helpful!

I ran into a little problem today, the hobby shop was out of silver dope. I picked up a bottle of Midwest silver formula U and it was useless. Didn't spray good and didn't look all that good. I wiped it all off and sprayed the ailerons with some old HOK silver metalflake base that I had left from another project and I think it's gonna do the trick. It's a little darker than the metal, I maybe should have used white primer under it? As soon as the clear sets, I'll post a pic.

Ben

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Well, the ailerons don't look too bad? I'm gonna go ahead and do the elevator halves the same way for now. More pics coming (hopefully some finished pics one day soon).

Ben

FliteMetal

Looks good with the 3M scuff pad in the photos. Flow coating a clear coat will freeze your finish preventing it from oxidizing further, though about 50% of our customers don't flow coat with clear and let it get darker with time. Using an orange or lemon half will accelerate your oxidation, as will a lime with Margarita mix.

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Ed,

I figured out why the finish on my AT6 isn't dead smooth....I think I was lazy with the glassing and didn't prep as well as I have in the past (when I was gonna finish with paint). I like the way it looks, but I would have liked to clear it all. I'll either rework it over next winter or order more and start another plane!

What do you think about using epoxy primers to get the surface perfect before applying FM? It would sure make prepping the surface easier.

Thanks,
Ben

FliteMetal

Hi Ben:

I would have thought use of epoxy primer would have been standard to prepare any glassed airframe for paint. Sorry you seem to be unhappy with the end result. You can remove Flite-Metal with a heat gun to release the acrylic adhesive with little to no residue...usually:^( Yeah, I know...but I'm trying to cheer you up.

Hey, she looka d'good to me mun!

Have fun with it and remember surface preparation is always necessary regardless of the finishing method. I'll take care of you next time around...promise...remind me and we'll see you're covered. Hey, its gotta look real because its covered in aluminum and its a beat up Texan!

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

I'm not unhappy with the finish at all! Every time I build something I think of things that I want to do different on the next one. Most builders probably do.

If I do decide to rework the FM on this one, I think I can just sand the metal and reset some (or all) of the rivets. I may need to replace a panel or so, but that's no big deal.

I would definitly have primed the glass if I were painting only, but I didn't think it would be necessary under FM.

Thanks,
Ben

FliteMetal

You can knock everything down with 200 then work back to 400 before using steel wool and it should look like every natural T6. Look forward to seeing the finished project.

Actual polished T6's have grit and grime on either side of all panel intersects with rivets and screws that are usually dirty. You can't do it incorrectly... its real aluminum...

rc_heli_flier

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I just think you should work a little faster and get it finished so you can bring it to the club meeting next week!!!