WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
12-23-2004, 07:38 PM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
Hey Lakefish4-the Albatross DIII is almost ready to fly-see pics on this forum-albatross DIII build-last page. Thanks for the info on covering. Flip
12-23-2004, 08:34 PM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
HEY FLIP, LOOKS GREAT AND SHOULD FLY JUST AS NICE. THANKS FOR THE TIP TO SEE YOUR PICS.
SUGGEST YOU WATCH YOUR BACK SIDE - I JUST MIGHT SUPRIZE YA IN MY SE-5A SOMEDAY. WE BUILT FOUR OF THEM SCRATCH THREE YEARS AGO AND RIGHT AFTER A BUNCH OF KITS CAME OUT.
THE BEST OF SOFT LANDINGS TO YOU!
AL
SUGGEST YOU WATCH YOUR BACK SIDE - I JUST MIGHT SUPRIZE YA IN MY SE-5A SOMEDAY. WE BUILT FOUR OF THEM SCRATCH THREE YEARS AGO AND RIGHT AFTER A BUNCH OF KITS CAME OUT.
THE BEST OF SOFT LANDINGS TO YOU!
AL
12-23-2004, 10:11 PM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
Lakefish4-how big were your SE5A scratch built models? I have scratch built smaller models but not scale-in the market for another WWI warbird but not sure what to get. Like the Nieuport 28 but would like something a "little" unusual-thought about the Funaero SE5A but no wheels or guns are available yet. May go up to 1/4 scale and use a Homelite chainsaw engine. BalsaUSA emailed me and they are getting another manufacturer to produce wheels for them (available in FEB??). Do not know about machine guns.
It will need to be a model that flys well-my landings are sometimes marginal at best. Thanks for all the helpful info and Merry Christmas. Flip
It will need to be a model that flys well-my landings are sometimes marginal at best. Thanks for all the helpful info and Merry Christmas. Flip
12-23-2004, 10:24 PM
#29
RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
Flip, my SE5a is a Dynaflite kit. Very easy to build and fly. not as good looking as the Funaero but a great plane. And about half the cost for the kit. Comes with all the hardware and decals etc. We both know what the funaero kits lack in hardware. So, if you want an easy great flying WWI kit, I like the Dynaflite. Not to bash FunAero, thiers is great. Just more involved.
12-24-2004, 06:53 AM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
Propnut-saw your SE5A-it is a good looking model-Less $$ is a good thing-I do like how the cowl attaches on the Funaero though-How does yours fly? I have heard good things about the SE5A flying characteristics. I built a 1/4 scale BARF Tiger Moth for a friend and it is a giant floater, only thing it wants to track left and bank left on take off-also climbs like crazy when you give it 3/4 full throttle. I hate Barfs. Building a BARF is like taking a shower with your socks on-just does not feel right
Flip
Flip
12-24-2004, 09:51 AM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
I just ordered my second se5a,I like the fuse on this plane"long" plenty of room in it.
Could you tell me I can find a funaero kit?
I ve been building the laser cut Guillows kit and was going to use micro stuff to fly it.
You dont have to tell me how Guillows is no good for rc,I already had anouther tread about it....lol
Could you tell me I can find a funaero kit?
I ve been building the laser cut Guillows kit and was going to use micro stuff to fly it.
You dont have to tell me how Guillows is no good for rc,I already had anouther tread about it....lol
12-24-2004, 10:03 AM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
HI FLIP - SEE YOU RECEIVED SOME GOOD INPUT ALREADY OVERNIGHT TO YOUR LAST QUESTIONS.
THE SCRATCH SE-'S WE BUILT WERE 1/6TH SCALE AS CAN STILL GET THEM IN THE BLAZER. I PUT SOME PHOTOS ON THE PHOTO ALBUM SITE LAST NIGHT IF INTERESTED. THE THREE PHASES OF BUILD FOR ME ARE RESEARCH, BUILD AND DETAIL AND I ENJOY IMENSLY ALL THREE. I ALSO LOOK FOR THE UNUSUAL (BUT GOOD ORIGINAL FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS). WAS WHY I CHOSE THE PUP FOR MY FIRST SCRATCH RC AS IT WAS USED FOR THE FIRST CARRIER EXPERIMENTATION FOR IT'S EASE OF HANDLING.
GENERALLY - THE MORE AGILE AND RESPONSIVE THE LESS STABLE BUT IN GENERAL THE LARGER THE MORE STABLE THEY BECOME. I TEND TO FLY MY BETTER ONES A LOT SO BUILD SOME ADDED STRENGTH WHICH MAY ADD 1/2 # OR SO BUT HELPS IN THE WIND AND ACCIDENTS. MY 1/6 SCALES TEND TO RUN FROM 8.5 TO 11 LBS AND ALL USE FOUR STROKES. MY SMALLEST IS THE SE-5 AND LARGEST ARE THE BE-2C AND ALBATROS CIII WITH WINGS FROM ABOUT 75"-TO 78". I HAVE AN 80 ENYA FS IN THE SE AND OS 90/91'S IN ALL OTHERS. ALL FLY VERY REALISTIC AND ALL WILL FLOAT SOLID.
I TEND TO ENJOY THE TWO SEATERS AS MUCH AS THE FIGHTERS AS THE ARE NOT AS POPULAR AND THEY ARE EVEN MORE STABLE AS WERE DESIGNED TO BE A STABLE CAMERA PLATFORM AND TEND TO BE A BIT LARGER.
AS TO PREFERENCE - IF YOU PICK A GOOD FLYING ORIGINAL SUBJECT THE MODEL WILL TEND TO HAVE SIMILAR CHARACTERISTICS. THESE MODELS ALL FLY WELL AIRBORN BUT THE TOUGHEST I HAVE IS THE SE AFTER TOUCHDOWN - IF THE RUDDER IS NOT SET JUST RIGHT THE MODEL TENDS TO DRIFT LEFT OR RIGHT AND OFTEN ENDS UP BANGING WINGTIPS IN THE ROLL OUT. ALL FOUR DO THIS AND I ATTRIBUTE MOST OF THIS TO THE SHORT FUSE MOMENT AND RELATIVELY LONG OR HIGH GEAR PLACEMENT.
MY FAVORITES OF THE CURRENT FLYERS I HAVE IN GOOD WIND OR STILL ARE THE GYPSY MOTH, ROLAND CII, FOKKER DVII AND THE SE-5A AND LIGHTER AIR UP TO 15 KNOTS THE LARGER TWO SEATERS CANT BE BEAT AS THEY FLY VERY REALISTIC AND GENTLE.
THANKS FOR STAYING WITH ME - I LOVE THIS STUFF - IF WOULD LIKE TO SEE SOME PICS WOULD BE HAPPY TO IF YOU WOULD PROVIDE YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS.
THE ABOVE IS JUST FROM MY OWN EXPERIENCE AND PREFERENCE.
MINE IS [email protected]
MY VERY BEST! RECHECK THE BALANCE AND STRAIGHTEN ANY WARP IN THE WINGS BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT. MERRY X'MASS AL
THE SCRATCH SE-'S WE BUILT WERE 1/6TH SCALE AS CAN STILL GET THEM IN THE BLAZER. I PUT SOME PHOTOS ON THE PHOTO ALBUM SITE LAST NIGHT IF INTERESTED. THE THREE PHASES OF BUILD FOR ME ARE RESEARCH, BUILD AND DETAIL AND I ENJOY IMENSLY ALL THREE. I ALSO LOOK FOR THE UNUSUAL (BUT GOOD ORIGINAL FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS). WAS WHY I CHOSE THE PUP FOR MY FIRST SCRATCH RC AS IT WAS USED FOR THE FIRST CARRIER EXPERIMENTATION FOR IT'S EASE OF HANDLING.
GENERALLY - THE MORE AGILE AND RESPONSIVE THE LESS STABLE BUT IN GENERAL THE LARGER THE MORE STABLE THEY BECOME. I TEND TO FLY MY BETTER ONES A LOT SO BUILD SOME ADDED STRENGTH WHICH MAY ADD 1/2 # OR SO BUT HELPS IN THE WIND AND ACCIDENTS. MY 1/6 SCALES TEND TO RUN FROM 8.5 TO 11 LBS AND ALL USE FOUR STROKES. MY SMALLEST IS THE SE-5 AND LARGEST ARE THE BE-2C AND ALBATROS CIII WITH WINGS FROM ABOUT 75"-TO 78". I HAVE AN 80 ENYA FS IN THE SE AND OS 90/91'S IN ALL OTHERS. ALL FLY VERY REALISTIC AND ALL WILL FLOAT SOLID.
I TEND TO ENJOY THE TWO SEATERS AS MUCH AS THE FIGHTERS AS THE ARE NOT AS POPULAR AND THEY ARE EVEN MORE STABLE AS WERE DESIGNED TO BE A STABLE CAMERA PLATFORM AND TEND TO BE A BIT LARGER.
AS TO PREFERENCE - IF YOU PICK A GOOD FLYING ORIGINAL SUBJECT THE MODEL WILL TEND TO HAVE SIMILAR CHARACTERISTICS. THESE MODELS ALL FLY WELL AIRBORN BUT THE TOUGHEST I HAVE IS THE SE AFTER TOUCHDOWN - IF THE RUDDER IS NOT SET JUST RIGHT THE MODEL TENDS TO DRIFT LEFT OR RIGHT AND OFTEN ENDS UP BANGING WINGTIPS IN THE ROLL OUT. ALL FOUR DO THIS AND I ATTRIBUTE MOST OF THIS TO THE SHORT FUSE MOMENT AND RELATIVELY LONG OR HIGH GEAR PLACEMENT.
MY FAVORITES OF THE CURRENT FLYERS I HAVE IN GOOD WIND OR STILL ARE THE GYPSY MOTH, ROLAND CII, FOKKER DVII AND THE SE-5A AND LIGHTER AIR UP TO 15 KNOTS THE LARGER TWO SEATERS CANT BE BEAT AS THEY FLY VERY REALISTIC AND GENTLE.
THANKS FOR STAYING WITH ME - I LOVE THIS STUFF - IF WOULD LIKE TO SEE SOME PICS WOULD BE HAPPY TO IF YOU WOULD PROVIDE YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS.
THE ABOVE IS JUST FROM MY OWN EXPERIENCE AND PREFERENCE.
MINE IS [email protected]
MY VERY BEST! RECHECK THE BALANCE AND STRAIGHTEN ANY WARP IN THE WINGS BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT. MERRY X'MASS AL
01-03-2005, 06:40 PM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
Hey PropNut, how big are the roundels that come with the Dynaflite SE5 kit? I need some that are approx 12" in diameter.
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
01-05-2005, 09:43 AM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
Covering, painting, WWI. Hmmm.
I have covered and painted smaller (40 inch span) planes with super coverite, Sig Koverall, Nelson color fab and Solartex. Here is my take:
They all work. they are all easy to apply. Much easier than Monokote.
Solartex and Nelson seem to be the same product. You must use balsarite or the equivalent or the edges will lift. Looks good.
Coverite. A little heavy. Must be painted. Can be painted with Latex without dope undercoating (I have done it both ways)
Koverall: Use balsarite to apply it then use nitrate dope to seal it and buteryate dope to finish it. You can paint over the dope with Latex but give it a rub with fine sandpaper first. THe edges frazzle and it can be a pain but the results can be outstanding.
Painting. I have tried airbrush and paintbrush. I prefer paintbrush for several reasons. The originals were not finely finished works of art. THe finishes were typically streaky and rough. Two or three coats with brushed on latex will smooth out the finish so it looks great from a distance but some brush strokes are visible up close. Use a scale sized brush. I figure most of the planes were painted with three or four inch brushes (just a guess) so I try to use the scale equivalent.
The SPAD is covered with Super Coverite and painted with brushed on latex with no undercoat. Everything is hand painted except the wheels (sprayed).
Jeff
I have covered and painted smaller (40 inch span) planes with super coverite, Sig Koverall, Nelson color fab and Solartex. Here is my take:
They all work. they are all easy to apply. Much easier than Monokote.
Solartex and Nelson seem to be the same product. You must use balsarite or the equivalent or the edges will lift. Looks good.
Coverite. A little heavy. Must be painted. Can be painted with Latex without dope undercoating (I have done it both ways)
Koverall: Use balsarite to apply it then use nitrate dope to seal it and buteryate dope to finish it. You can paint over the dope with Latex but give it a rub with fine sandpaper first. THe edges frazzle and it can be a pain but the results can be outstanding.
Painting. I have tried airbrush and paintbrush. I prefer paintbrush for several reasons. The originals were not finely finished works of art. THe finishes were typically streaky and rough. Two or three coats with brushed on latex will smooth out the finish so it looks great from a distance but some brush strokes are visible up close. Use a scale sized brush. I figure most of the planes were painted with three or four inch brushes (just a guess) so I try to use the scale equivalent.
The SPAD is covered with Super Coverite and painted with brushed on latex with no undercoat. Everything is hand painted except the wheels (sprayed).
Jeff
01-05-2005, 09:55 AM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
If you are using a fabric covering, hand painting the roundels is easy and looks great. Here is what I do:
Get some moveable shelf paper (sticky back but not too sticky.) I find the center of the roundel and put a stack of small bits of masking tape there and use it to protect the wing from the compass. Draw the outer circle. Hand paint it white. Several coats usually. Don't remove the tape, paint around it. When dry. use the compass to draw the inner two circles then remove the tape and finish painting. Paint white where the tape was before painting color over it (if it is American, it stays white anyway).
This works very well and, if you are carefull, gives a roundell that has more character than a decal and looks better to my eye.
The SPAD in my previous post was done this way. I did not attempt to match colors exactly, it is a combat plane after all.
Jeff
Get some moveable shelf paper (sticky back but not too sticky.) I find the center of the roundel and put a stack of small bits of masking tape there and use it to protect the wing from the compass. Draw the outer circle. Hand paint it white. Several coats usually. Don't remove the tape, paint around it. When dry. use the compass to draw the inner two circles then remove the tape and finish painting. Paint white where the tape was before painting color over it (if it is American, it stays white anyway).
This works very well and, if you are carefull, gives a roundell that has more character than a decal and looks better to my eye.
The SPAD in my previous post was done this way. I did not attempt to match colors exactly, it is a combat plane after all.
Jeff
ORIGINAL: dottney
Hey PropNut, how big are the roundels that come with the Dynaflite SE5 kit? I need some that are approx 12" in diameter.
Thanks
Dave
Hey PropNut, how big are the roundels that come with the Dynaflite SE5 kit? I need some that are approx 12" in diameter.
Thanks
Dave
01-05-2005, 01:23 PM
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RE: WWI Covering and Paint Procedures
Dottney - I have tried painting roundels both by freehand brushing and also masking and airbrushing. First result looked like what it was - maybe a good reproduction of the real thing done in the sleet in France while standing in 6" of mud, but not really what I was after.
The second lot done with masking and latex in the airbrush came out OK, but, man, labour intensive.
The third lot, shown on the little Tigermoth here - 44" span - was commissioned from a local signwriter. Just a series of sticky vinyl circles applied one at a time - first one blue, second one white, and the red dot last. Total cost for this model was five dollars, and that included the serial numbers both sides of the aft fuselage. Very simple and clean and they look like they will stick forever.
Alan W
The second lot done with masking and latex in the airbrush came out OK, but, man, labour intensive.
The third lot, shown on the little Tigermoth here - 44" span - was commissioned from a local signwriter. Just a series of sticky vinyl circles applied one at a time - first one blue, second one white, and the red dot last. Total cost for this model was five dollars, and that included the serial numbers both sides of the aft fuselage. Very simple and clean and they look like they will stick forever.
Alan W
