flipstart

I plan on building a Funaero Albatross DIII as my first scale project. I have searched for all the tips and methods used for covering and painting with latex for a scale look.

The following is what I have chosen based on my searches:

1) Coat all raw balsa and ply with balsarite and cover with white Super Coverite

2) Apply 1-2 coats of dope to seal

3) Paint camo scheme with flat latex of appropriate colors

4) Seal with flat polyurethane (Deft or Minwax brand)

Two questions remain- what type of dope to use - Nitrate or Butyrate for compatibility with latex paint or should I also use some type of primer before applying latex. Apparently Proctor says that doping is not necesssary, but seems like it would seal the seams better.

Would appreciate any comments/ opinions on my choices. Thanks Flipstart

abufletcher

I'm new at this and have not worked with Coverite but I don't see why the dope is necessary if you are going to be coating with Poly(whatever) later. I covered my EIII with Solartex, painted the markings and weathered with satin latex then sprayed the whole thing with MinWax Polycrylic.

As I said I haven't used Coverite. The Solartex is an iron on heat shrink fabric. Perhaps the Coverite requires the dope for tightening.

photoniq

Abu - did you paint your plane with a brash or did you spray it?
photoniq

MajorTomski

Flip, if you go to the coverite web page

http://www.coverite.com/covering/index.html

you will find an extensive faq sheet. It says there that coverite is already fuel proof so there is no need to dope it in the first place to seal it. that eliminates the need for your step two.

HTH Tom

LMProd

I am planning on doing the same with my Fun Aero SE5a. I will use solortex and paint the top green with latex paint.

How well did the Funaero Albatross DIII go together ?? I haven't started the SE5 a yet.

Thanks,

AlphaWhisky

Hi flipstart,

Some months ago I completed my 86" sport-scale Eindecker. In the absence of any local experience to call on, here`s how I did mine. In short, I`d do my next rag covered model the same way.

1 Coat the raw balsa with one coat, maybe two if you're keen, clear nitrate dope - full strength brushed on.

2 Apply approx 1/4" wide stripe of Balsaloc with a cheap artist brush around each intended fabric panel perimeter.

3 Apply Sig KOVERALL!! This stuff is briliant. I reckon you could cover a tennis ball with the stuff and show no wrinkles.

4 Brush on two coats full strength clear nitrate to seal the weave.

5 Brush or spray the selected latex. I brushed two coats of suitably water-thinned basic colour on mine. The aluminium colour and markings etc were masked and sprayed with cans. Incidently, I brushed on one coat of sanding sealer to the supposed aluminium areas around the cockpit to hide the weave and it worked out just fine.

6 My model is gas powered with a Homelite weedeater conversion. I brushed one coat of clear polyurethane around the engine bay and exhaust area only and left the rest as painted. To clean any exhaust residue off after a day flying I just wipe the affected areas with a cloth damped with turps. It hasn`t showed any ill effects from that after about 20 days out so far.

This lot mightn`t appeal to the experts but it worked well for me. I think you`ll find that Koverall is about the cheapest fabric going too, and no, I`m not on a Sig commission.

I hope some of this helps.

Alan W

flipstart

Alpha-thanks for the detailed info-had not considered Sig coverall-will check it out-looking forward to starting on my Albatross in Sept. and just wanted to start getting my "ducks in a row". Flip

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

Ditto on the Sig Koverall. I "discovered" that stuff a few years ago after being a firm believer in Coverite and Solartex. I love the Koverall. Once it's on and sealed it's tight as a drum and it WON"T WRINKLE or loosen like the others do after awhile. Also, the edges will never lift up. In fact, I'm planning to re-cover a couple of my old planes with the stuff.

Jim

flipstart

Sig coverall seems like the covering for me if it is easier to apply than regular monokote, especially as far as eliminating wrinkles around corners and etc. Does it shrink like most of the iron on fabrics. I assume you have to apply something for adhesive and then seal the fabric down. Would like to know more about coverall. Thanks Flip

stall

I've used the coverite on a Fokker D8 and was not impressed with it. It is easy to use, but does not stick to my satisfaction. I have done several test samples with different grit of sanded surface, but found no difference. What you must do is have a minimum of 1/4" of overlap or more. This is the only way to ensure that you have a good bond. The covering is supposed to be fuel proof, but I have a friend who did not clear over his and the oil from his engine soaked into the fabric. So, I would suggest using a clear coat of some sort.

As far as using latex paint on dope.... I was planning on using the Nelson clear over some fabric I had doped, but the paint would not stick. Luckily I did this on a test sample. What I found is that if you use 1 coat of nitrate or up to 2 coats of buterate on fabric, then the paint will stick. But, if you dope the fabric the way Sig recommends (2 coats of nitrate, plus 4 coats of buterate), then the latex paint has nothing to stick to. I'm guessing the paint has to soat into the fabric to bond.

I've made almost every mistake with these paints and coverings so just ask. []

CadFlyer

My Feedback: (16)

Dress lining and minwax works just as good, at least it did for me. And it was a great deal less costs involved.

buzzard bait

I too like Sig Koverall--tough, light, and super easy to apply. I apply it with nitrate dope and I also seal it with nitrate.

Nitrate is said to be compatible with a very wide variety of paint types. Butryate is not, because it takes years to completely gas off. It is used either by itself or as a final finish on top of nitrate.

If you want to paint with latex, I think Sig Koverall sealed with nitrate would be an excellent and economical base for it. But I've never tried dress lining.

Jim

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

I used dress lining (polyester) on my SE5a. It worked great, no wrinkles or sags on 8 months now. Very tight. I used BalsaRite for fabric to seal it down with. I do recomend thining the balsarite though, mine was very lumpy as I tried to brush it on. Spray painted it with Kylon flat olive drab and clear satin minwax. My spraying technique was awful (krylon doesnt use a fan spray on thier flat colors, so after it cured I had streaks) but the fabric is great. I am currently also working on an albatros DIII by Funaero flip. I have watched your other posts and seen the final product. Very very nice.

eagledancer

i have been using sig koverall for 15 years now and a firm beleaver in this stuff. one of my planes is 15 years old and still no sags or lifting of edges i am using laquer clear to seal it down at edges (automotive laquer clear) and automotive primer with a flex agent in it to seal the weave. then you can apply most paints on top of this. but i dont suggest the spray can type automotive primer they dont have much filling properties. i also prefer to use automotive paints and clears but they are quite expensive.

tom johnston

My Feedback: (2)

I covered my Funaero SE5a with Worldtex from Hangar 9 and painted it with Tamiya "A9" (RAF green color). I had to buy all the paint that was in the hobbyshop because the cans are super small!

flipstart

I have just about finished my Funaero Albatross DIII-ended up using solartex with latex primer and latex paint from HD, overcoated with PU. Solartex is great stuff-easiest covering to apply and strong, no tendency to ravel and sticks like crazy. Kit was a lot of fun to build and plane came out nice. Had to hand paint all the Maltese Crosses but used decals for rest of the detail. Will post pics soon.
Flipstart

silvercloud-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

I was wondering when somebody would say something about solartex you can cut out a lot smelly steps and still get a realy nice finish if you want to you can paint on it.I am also building the funaero albatros nice kit it will be covered in black and white solartex color scheme of Oblt Adolf vonTutschek jafu,jasta 12. Good luck Dave

dicknadine

have been using the Coverite for years and have never had a relaxing/wrinkleing happen. my biggest problem now is finding it, since its been dicontinued. looking for the Antique/ Natural(tannish) color-- giant rolls. dick

jaka

HI!
Skip Coverite ! Nowadays there are far better covering fabric material like Solartex and even better.... Oratex (from the same German manufacturer that makes Oracover (Ultracote in the US)).
And also skip Balsarite or any other dope/paint like it...these are simply not necessary.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

Im about to use skyloft has anyone tryied this stuff,What i want to know is It says after applying it wet ,dope the edges.Do you know if you do this while its wet?
I think this what they mean just want to make sure.This stuff sounds like its alot of steps and a pain But im doing a small kit and just want to use it since its paid for.
I understand all the steps ,just cant pictiure putting dope on a wet surface,it says to rub it into the fabric on the edges with your fingers.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Have you tried Proctor?

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

Proctor Silex? No,I could buy a different type of covering just would like to use this skyloft once to see how it comes out.I never heard of half the coverings mentioned above. I have used coverite andcoverlite what is proctor?

lakefish4

My Feedback: (68)

HEY FLIPSTART

SCANNED THE COMMENTS YOU RECEIVED AND I ALSO AGREE WITH SUPERCOVERITE (DOPE OR NO DOPE) OR SIG KOVERALL WITH PRELIMINARY DOPE COATS TO SEAL.

IF WEIGHT IS A CONCERN THE KOVERAL IS LIGHTER AND WITH A DOPE FINISH NEVER LOOSENED OVER TEN YEARS AND I FLOAT FLY A BIT. I HAVE USED LATEX AND STILL RETOUCH UP A LATEX JOB WITH LATEX (WHICH IS A MAIN ADVANTAGE - EASY TO TOUCH UP) BUT THE MAIN PROBLEM IS IF YOU FLY A LOT IN TIME IT GETS GUMMY WHERE THE FUEL OR EXHAUST RUNS ON IT LIKE UNDER THE FUSE AND WINGS. BUT RETOUCHES UP EASILY.

THE BEST WWI FINISH I HAVE COME ACROSS SO FAR (COST AND RESULTS CONSIDERING) IS THE RECENT KRYLON CAMOFLAGUE SERIES. CAN BUY IN WALMART STORES AND SOME PAINT STORES. COSTS $3 A CAN IN MOST AND IS DRAB FINISH AND FUEL SPOTS DISSAPEAR IN A DAY OR SO. ONLY GOING ON THREE YEARS NOW BUT LIKE NEW AND EASY TO TOUCH UP. TO ME ONLY DOPE IS BETTER AND WITH DOPING I PREFER THE LUSTERCOAT OLIVE DRAB (DULL) FINISH.

INCIDENTALLY, WITH MY ALBATROS CII I HAD A PROBLEM FINDING A GOOD DULL WHITE DOPE FINISH SO APPLIED THE LUSTERCOAT WHITE PRIMER AND IT WORKED OUT PERFECTLY.

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT WHAT EVER YOU USE. THE DII AND DII ARE MY FAVORITE SINGLE SEATERS OF THE ALBATROS SERIES. WOULD APPRECIATE A PHOTO OR TWO WHEN YOU'RE COMPLETED.

I WISH YOU THE GOOD FORTUNE I HAVE HAD WITH MY FIRST RC SCRATCH FROM MY OWN PLANS - SOPWITH PUP STILL FLYING WITH ORIGINAL ENGINE AND FINISH GOING ON 30 YEARS NOW.

MY VERY BEST! AL

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Lakefish,
I used the Krylon Olive drab also, worked out great. Sealed with Poly. Well, except for the streaks found after the paint cured (the nozzle sprays in a stream instead of a fan) but looks great regardless on my SE5a.

lakefish4

My Feedback: (68)

HI PROPNUT - I MUST HAVE SPRAYED LIGHTER COATS - NEVER HAD THAT PROBLEM. DID YOU USE MORE THAN ONE CAN? MAYBE THE SPRAY CAPS WERE A BUMB LOT? SORRY TO HEAR OF IT. WOULDNT THINK THEY WOULD DESIGN IT TO SPRAY THAT WAY.

GOOD LOOKING SE - WE DID A FULL FLIGHT OF FOUR SE-5'S A COUPLE YEARS OK AND NEVER GOT THEM ALL UP AT ONCE.

YOU MAY ENJOY THE BOOK I FOUND AND PICKED UP ON abebooks.com WHICH IS NOT ONLY A DAY BY DAY HISTORY OF THE 56TH SQDN BUT AS THEY WERE ISSUED THE FIRST SE-5'S AND FLEW THEM ACROSS THE CHANNEL TO THEIR NEW AIRFIELD IN FRANCE APRIL 7, 1917 (THINK IT WAS) IT IS ALSO A CHRONOLOGY OF THE SE-5 AS IT WAS IMPROVED AND MODIFIED AND WITH LOTS OF ORIGINAL PHOTOS. OVERSIZED BOOK IS {"HIGH IN THE EMPTY BLUE" BY ALEX REVEL}. THE COMMANDER OF THE NEW SQUADRON CECIL LEWIS WROTE THE INTRODUCTION BEFORE HE DIED IN THE 1980'S - WAS PUBLISHED IN EARLY 90'S.

AL