Sarges_heroes2003

My Feedback: (6)

Piper cubs make good trainers?? Ive been scooping out the trainers and the cub looks like them and has a high wing, will it fly like a trainer?? just wandering b/c I didn't want just another arf trainer 40.
Thanks all!!!

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

The cub will fly like a trainer. But takeoffs and landings on a tail dragger with short coupling will make getting off the buddy box very (!!!!) tough. If not impossible.

Good luck

Joe

Sarges_heroes2003

My Feedback: (6)

buddy box??? i was gona go it alone.

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

I'll disagree and say that it's not impossible to learn on a Cub. Howerver, your going to learn how to fix and glue your plane, which is what you'll be doing for a while when your learning.

I learned on a tail wheel model a Pilatus Porter to be exact. The "Buddy Box" is the way to learn with any airplane, but with a tail wheel aircraft, your going to learn rudder control to keep the plane centered down the runway on take off and controling your roll out on landing.

Cub's do have a tendcy to ground loop, if you don't stay ahead of the plane by aticpating your rudder imputs. Hopefully with a patient teacher, who can save your before you screw up, which you will do, the Cub can be used as a trainer.

The biggest thing I've seen with low time pilots and tail wheel airplanes, is throwing the gas all at once and then trying to recover with rudder and the plane ends up all over the flying field. The rational here that if they get the power and speed up ASAP, then can jerk if off the ground. Learn to be a smooth pilot. Always slowly apply throttle, that way the torque from the engine won't spin
you around. Rudder, Rudder, Rudder!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good luck with the Cub and if you really want to use it as a trainer, just be prepared to use some glue. I learned by dragging my tail first, which I feel made me a better pilot.

Sarges_heroes2003

My Feedback: (6)

thanks mim,
i like the cubs, im lookin at towers kits right now. the dura plane 20 is also some thing im eyeing. its only 50 bux for a arf kit. Hhhhmm. I still gota get a radio and crap though.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

If you want to learn to fly, I would suggest a Trike gear trainer made for that purpose. When you want to learn to take of and land tail draggers you can go with a cub or similar plane. I have taught people to fly on cub type planes but typically they go through several planes in the process. It doesn't make a lot of sense to go that route. Learn to control the plane first, on the take off, flight and landing then graduate to some thing a little more challenging. That's my observation after 30+ years in RC.. Good luck and get a qualified pilot to help you, regardless of what you choose.

the-plumber

Seems to me a couple of generations of rider scale pilots learned to fly in Cubs.

One of the things I went through, and I've since seen many other fledgling modelers go through, is having to learn what the rudder does after solo.

My original instructor only used the rudder for aerobatics, and complained that my Goldberg trainer didn't have enough aileron authority, although it was set up by the book.

I learned the hard way (several different kits) that novices need to master the rudder before they get the model in the air, not after they're trying to land in a cross wind.

I think a tail dragger is an ideal primary trainer because the student will have to learn the proper (and continuous) use of the rudder if they want to get the beast off the runway
(other than in the grass, that is).

Yes, a Cub makes a fine trainer. It is not as easy as trike gear, and you will spend a bit more time learning what the rudder really does than someone with an ARF .40 trike trainer, but you'll be a better pilot when you solo.

BTW - you may already be infected. Not wanting just another .40 ARF trainer may mean you'll be buying balsa in bulk, building pull-pull systems, and worrying about the right FS number for your newest Big Iron before you know it.

Welcome to the nuttiest hobby in the world.

abufletcher

What exactly is the appeal of the Cub? Tons of people seem desparate to have one. Personally, I think the Cub is a fairly homely little aircraft. Sort of like a full-size model airplane. But then maybe that's part of the appeal. Is it the flight characteristics that make it so popular? The fact that it's a non-military aircraft that you or I could actually get to fly (or at least ride in) some day? It's "simple but elegant" appearance? The fact that they're usually bright yellow? What is it?

Just curious.

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Good question! I have one because it is scale and during the winter here I can add skies. During the spring and fall I can give people their first attempt at R/C. Or a bunch of guys that fly Cubs are getting together for spot landings, min takeoff run, timed flight, carry the mail, etc. . or if one of my kids wants to fly they can try to rip the wings off it. Its not something I would consider a challenge and take out to practice with.

Cubs, P-51’s and P-47’s are all on my list if never build again because they are so well known by the contest community that they are not viable scale contest planes, and are all available in ARF form from a number of soarces.

Just my 2 cents

Joe

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

I think you find the nostalga of the Piper Cub is its appeal. Post World War II, saw the Cub mass produced and for many, the Cub was the plane they learned to fly and earn a pilots licence. As a Pilot myself, many of the Older gentlemen tell stories of how they learned to fly in a Cub. My father learned in a Super Cruiser, which is a bigger Cub with a little bigger engine. Cub's lend themselves to Scale very easily and still retain an ease of flying, were as a P-51, flies like a P-51, it's not forgiving with a high wing loading.

Sarges_heroes2003

My Feedback: (6)

it doesn't look like just another trainer, thats why I was looking in to this little aircraft. Ive been looking at other non-traditionel trainers as well, like the duraplane trainer. thanks all!!!!

jaka

Hi!
No! A CUB is not the way to go if you want to start R/C flying!
The reason is simple: There are far better flying airplanes to choose from than a CUB.

If you don't buy the above fact...then here comes some more....
The CUB has very brittle wing fastening system with its large windows that will instantly brake as soon as you crash the first time.
It is also a taildragger and as such is not as easy to steer at take off as a nose wheeled airplane. Believe me.... newcomers do have difficulties just steering an airplane when it accelerates on take off. Most people being right handed have difficulties steering with their left hand.
The CUB also has a straight wing which means it is not as forgiving in flight compared to a normal high winged trainer.
There you are!
I can't understand why somebody would choose a harder way to get started in this wonderful hobby than is needed.
Why invent the wheel again??
High winged trainers are there for just one purpose...to learn people how to fly! They are not beautiful...but they serve a purpose....
After you have learned to fly (on a trainer aircraft getting help from a club...other vise it is nearly useless you try) then you can build, buy, get a more beautiful airplane.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

Wayne22

My Feedback: (2)

Its your money, but I would not recommend it. Cubs have some funky flying characteristics that requires some experience before tackling. There are some conditions where you need to cross control them, and they will spin. They do not self-recover like a trainer does, and (as mentioned above) they are usually only good for one crash.

I know what you mean about the stigma of high wing trainers, but ya gotta learn how to fly first, and that high wing trainer is your ticket to success. The Duraplane is a poor excuse for an airplane IMO. If you want something different, look at a 4Star 40, or even a something extra (with the contols tamed down and a small engine). The Midwest Starduster is even better, if you can find one.

The smaller scale cubs don't really fly like cubs anyways, so in a way you will be short changing your self...Once you get into 1/4 or 1/3 scale they start coming into their own and rewarding the pilot with something approaching the full size cub. Things like a 600 foot take off riding on the main gear with an ever so gentle lift off and a shallow climb on runway heading....done at less than 1/3 throttle!!! Flying with the engine ticking over so slowly you can hear the putt putt of every power stroke (good with 4 strokes..) Landing, and floating for a surprising distance til one wheel gently touches the grass, followed quickly by the other, with the tail still flying until the cub is almost stopped...... ya can't beat it!!!

Keep the dream, but learn to fly first!

jaka

Hello!

A good trainer is the Kyosho Calmato....I have teached many newcomers in my club to fly using one of these...but of course there are others too that are as good! But please stay away from a CUB as first aircraft...and do get help from a club...things will be much easier for you if you just follow these simple rules.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

Scar

My Feedback: (3)

Okay, you need to start a new thread. Specify that you are GOING to learn by yourself, and that you are GOING to use a cub. Then describe the Cub in detail, the engine, and your radio. Then ignore all the advice about getting an instructor and using a buddy box, some people will have advice for learning on your own.

You will need it. The cub is not as forgiving as planes that were designed for the training purpose, and (like all taildraggers) has some taxiing issues you will need to deal with.

By no means should you start with a Duraplane. The only thing it has on the Cub is that the repair parts are cheaper. My Sturdy Birdy (same thing, different brand) was not all that easy to fly, even after I solo'd. Nor was it all that sturdy. The Cub will fly slower than the Duraplane, and that's a good thing for learning.

Oh, and anything you spend on a computer flight simulator will be money well spent. You can learn a lot about RC takeoff and landings before you acquire your Cub. You can also use it later, to learn inverted flight, axial rolls, etc. without risking the hardware.

Good luck,
Dave Olson

pzar

I have been flying trainers for several years....have moved to some mid wing and have been building and flying cubs the last year....Take offs are very different and have spent considerable time repairing.....my findings are:
Speed is important at take off...too fast and it will pop up on you.
Balance is critical both CG and lateral
Be ready to steer and correct with rudder only once you leave the ground...if balance is correct.
Turning is different you need rudder and aierlon to do it correctly.

Good luck....I would start with a trainer

hgiles

My Feedback: (4)

Wait a second! My first plane was a H9 Piper cub with a Saito 56. It flies great and you really learn to fly with this one. However, I spent countless hours on the simulator (AFP) before I took my plane up. I buddy boxed a time or two. I had the instructor take me up and then I took over. I had the instructor give me a good runway approach and I landed. From there I was ready and solo'd very shortly after. It's not impossible.

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

No offense to anyone, however I feel that natural ability has a lot to do with it. I've seen both young and old struglgle or succed.

In the case of tri-cycle gear planes, if your field is not paved or has very smooth short grass, the planes have a hard time moving through the grass. Unless you put 3" tires and enjoy bending the nose gear back into positon, then stick with tri-cycle trainer. Also, a lot of people move the main gear forward and slap a tail wheel on a trainer and learn to fly just fine. Your going to fix an airplane a lot as a beginner, so just expectit. Get a good instructor, which is hard, and fly as often as you can. Flying once a week or less, is just going to slow down the learning curve.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

a while back i had a gp .40 cub arf, supertigre .40 ringed for a motor-over powered, flew well at half throttle ( more scale like ). well anyway that plane handled alot different in the air and when landing than my Sig lt 40- converted to a taildragger with a supertiger .61 ringed. looks cool with wheel pants and two tone covering. the .cub didn't self recover at all, but was not at all hard to fly. the problem was with landing it - it didn't want to quit flying! with a cross wind, you did have to cross couple the controls, which can be hard for a beginer. for pete's sake don't, waste your time building a cub- buy an arf to bang up!

Ptarmigan

You could learn with that. Sounds tempting. The Piper Cub is a cool airplane . However, taildraggers are harder to land though. Go with the tri-wheel. Get a trainer, like Sig Kadet LT-40. It is easier to land and also less likely to do repairing. You will thank yourself for that.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

that's right- go with the LT40 first, it is an awesome trainer.

AgCat1982

I happen to love the Cub! I don't like the color yellow, however, I love it on that plane! The Cub was the first airplane I got to get up close to and touch when I was 6 years old. I got to see several air shows with the 'old farmer' 'accidentally' taking off in one and doing what seemed to be the impossible with it! I saw a full scale cub take off after rolling only 20 ft on a windy day one time. It was great.

garrett0300

You can learn with a cub. Anyone that says steering a trike at high speeds is easy,, is crazy. Cubs are a little harder. Once you start learning with a taildragger,, that is what you get used to. I have a cub. It's AWESOME!!

johnnyc

I actually learned to fly a Carl Goldburg Kit Cub as my first plane. I spent many, many hours on a flight simulator program, and still almost totaled the cub on several of the first flights. Take everyone's advice and don't learn on a cub, unless you have an instructor with a buddy box and lots of time. A cub is very rewarding in the end, but probably not the best place to start. Good luck with whatever path you choose.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I will agree with everyone who says you CAN learn on a Cub, but if you have flown any of the generic high wing, lotsa dihedral, tricycle wheeled trainers, you sort of have to unlearn their characteristics, 'cause the Cub is different from them. I fly a 1/5 scale L-4, built from a Sig J-3 kit. It was harder to learn how to fly it than it needed to be because I had gotten used to flying one of those generics. You MUST learn how to use the rudder, on takeoff, while flying, and on approach and landing. If you have a computer radio, you can cheat and mix rudder with ailerons; using plenty of rudder also helps fight adverse yaw, which Cubs are known for. It helped me, but I usually fly without the mix, now that I'm used to how to use the rudder. I found that the huge wing was a ***** if it was windy, especially when turning crosswind; I'd bank the plane, the wind would get under the wing, or on top of it depending on whether I had been going up-or downwind and it took almost full opposite aileron to level off. But once you know what to expect, it's easy, and you can use rudder and a little opposite aileron and the plane will turn with almost no bank; it really helps in the wind, and also on a crosswind approach to landing.
Whoever in the above posts said something about gradual throttle application is dead on. Rolling the throttle on gives you a little time to input rudder gradually to counter the left turn tendency; the more throttle you use on takeoff, the more rudder you have to use to keep it straight down the runway, and it's real easy to overcorrect and start zig-zagging; when that happens, it's best to back out of the throttle , abort takeoff and try again. A computer radio can help here, too. Program in about 60-70% exponential into the rudder, it will decrease the sensitivity and the tendency to overcorrect. Once you get the feel for how much rudder with how much throttle, start decreasing the amt. of expo; I left in about 30% on mine.
I think takeoffs were harder to learn than landings, at least staying straight was.If you can keep it straight, you got it knocked. After the tail has come up, just nudge the stick back a tiny bit and it will fly right off. Landing a Cub is just lining it up and pulling power back to let it settle, but FLYING it all the way in, and instead of trying to plant the tail when the mains touch down, cut the power completely to idle, stay on the rudder to keep it straight, and let the tail settle; but be READY on elevator to keep the nose from diving, digging the prop in, and ground looping. If you pull back too much on the elevator too soon, the plane will "balloon" and take off again, because dropping the tail increases the angle of attack on the wing, increasing lift. Since your airspeed is dropping, this will be very temporary and the plane will stall, and the plane will drop back to the ground. Grass runways are where this will happen most, because the drag on the wheels will make the nose tend to dive more. I had the good fortune to have both paved and grass runways right next to each other. I prefer pavement, although mistakes tend to leave bigger scars than grass.
I know that this all sounds basic to flying anything, and it is, but it seemed more so to me while i was learning the Cub. But it has made a dedicated taildragger out of me, and has vastly improved my flying skills on everything else I fly. CUBS (and GRASSHOPPERS) FOREVER!!!!