Reg Hinnant

My Feedback: (9)

Bob's build thread will just about answer everything you would ever want to know but its a long one to read thru!
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...p?TID=458&PN=2
Rib stitching starts on Page 48
Laceing on P 56

abufletcher

Reg, looks like it's time to review! I read through Bob's thread about a year ago but clearly need a "refresher course."

Reg Hinnant

My Feedback: (9)

Yeah, the bad thing is some of the threads over there will disappear over time due to storage limatations. My small thread I started years ago where I listed a lot of WW1 & building resources is gone. Hopefully they will offer CD's on a lot of threads grouped by era or WW1/WW2.

Canuck1

Been a while since I have posted any progress. I have the fuselage almost covered. I am using Sigs coverall and dope. So far so good. The tail is complete and can be removed if required. The top centre section is also covered and doped. It is slowely taking shape. As soon as I figure out how to post some pics with my new camera I will start adding some more pics. May be a while as work will be getting in the way. LOL.

Craig.

alpinestar

Swap meets are always interesting... who knew I would run across a 1/3 BUSA pup kit with spoked wheels for $145?? This kit has always been on "the list" & finding such a deal just moved it up a few places!! It doesn't hurt that an amazing example of this plane is on the cover of the latest "Model Aviation" magazine. Can't wait to get started on this one (finishing up a few others at the moment). I'm guessing that there is no concern with engine weight with this one, is everyone mounting lots of lead in the nose to get it to balance?? I built the 1/4 scale Se5a with saito 150 & had to add ridiculous amounts of nose weight.
Too bad that RCS radial is just so big & powerful. I'll probably use an 80cc twin (zenoah, 3w, ZDZ, or Fuji.. who knows) for this one.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I have a friend using the G80 in his Pup. It flies it scale like but not over powered.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Bob, thanks for pointing me here. I just went through the big thread over on RCSB.

So - interesting. It appears you may be indirectly saying a 34-36 pound pup may need more than a G-62 to fly scale like?

Steve

juan jose

I have a Balsa Sopwith 1/3 power with a Quadra 50 engine turning a Zinger 24X6 prop, want to change the engine for a more powerful one, I want to know how the airplane fly with a 62 engine and what propeller you are using.
I leave in Honduras; my plane is 20 years old.
Thanks for your help.
Juan Jose Interiano

eagledancer

mine is 37 lbs with a g-62 flys great! not overpowered but no slouch on climb out either. this is a plane that loves to fly on the wings, no i cant do a loop from level flight but neither can a full scale one either, a slight dive is needed.

juan jose

Thank You Eagledancer

I will go for the G- 62 engine, my concern is climbing gradient in 3000 feet altitude airport, can somebody tell me if 24X6 is better than 24X10 or using the 22X10 prop I get more thrust, one of our field have a lots of trees around. My plane weights 31 pounds with the Quadra 50 engine.

Juan Jose

eagledancer

i am flying mine on a g-62 with a 22-10 i am at 1000 feet alt. here in KS

Canuck1

Trying to do a test picture. I have been working on the fuselage stitching on the starboard side.

Craig.

Canuck1

I think I may have figured the picture thing out. I have done quite a bit but not have posted any pictures. The fuselage is covered except the bottom. I will do that last. The wings are covered as well as the tail section. I am installing my switch on the stbd side where the ammo access point is located. Here are a few more pictures.

Craig.

V2PLUS10

Hi Craig,

It really looks good. Those details like the stitching give a model character. How did you install the eyelets? Very nice...

Randy

Canuck1

Randy
The eyelets were installed using a small eyelet tool that my wife has for her crafts. It works great. I first bonded together two pieces of coverall and made the strips to length. I marked off 1/2 in intervals and inserted all the eyelets. Once completed I then doped the length of eyelets to the airframe. I stagered the two rows to get the offset needed. Took some time to do all the eyelets but the end result is well worth the time spent. I have attached two pics. Not to sure how well they will turn out.

Craig.

Canuck1

I started working on the rib stitching. I am actually stitching the fabric to the wing. The undercamber seems to want to loosen when more dope is applied. To remedy it from releasing I will stitch the fabric to the ribs. Seems to be turning out well. The last two pics are of the top and bottom of the airfoil with the stitching completed.

Craig.

Canuck1

I finished up the stitching on the lower port wing tonight. There are some area's that I can not stitch due to construction supports etc. I will have to fake these area's and they should not be that noticable once the tape is laid over top. Only three more wings to go as well as the tailgroup and the top centre wing that is attached to the fuselage.

Craig.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

FIY, before the stitching is put on a piece of fabric tape is applied over the rib on top of the main covering. This is to keep the stitching from chaffing the main covering. After the stitching if done the top covering (rib tape) is applied. Not sure you want to re-do the wing, lol but I thought you might be interested in the procedure.

Canuck1

Bob
You are absolutely correct in regards to the second layer or fabric before the stitching is applied. I will be doing that on the other wings, and like you stated, I will probably redo the wing.

Craig.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Craig, I can't speak to using dope to tack down your under camber section but I used Balsa rite on my under cambered wing and it works well. No pulling off of the fabric at all. I can add that after I ironed on the fabric using the balsa rite I went over it with Nitrate dope with no ill effects.

Canuck1

I am not to worried with the fabric ripping away. The fabric is fairly secure, as it was doped three times prior to trying the stitching, so I will probably leave it as is on the wing. I added a small 1/2 in strip of solar tex to the top of the stitching. I am very happy with the results. Applied a couple of coats of nitrate just to seal the edges. I will let it sit over night and check the adhession tomorrow. I think I will use solar tex for all my additional layers of cloth, saves time and it does not fray like coverall.

Craig.

Canuck1

I finished up the top of the bottom port wing. Turned out pretty good. Still need to do the bottom, then 3 more wings to go.

Craig.

abufletcher

Turned out PHENOMENAL!!!

whook1950

Beautiful workmanship through out your project!! I will be starting my own Pup soon. What is the projected time frame for your project and on average how much time per week would say you have spent on it?? Thanks alot and again beatuful workmanship

Canuck1

Not to sure on the end date. I have been working on and off on this project since summer. Between work and other activities. The build goes rather quick. All the small details will take extra time, but it will be worth the extra effort in the end. I try to spend at least 2 hours a day on her. Sometimes I can be in the basement for 6 to 8 hrs at a stretch. I find it hard to stop at times. Good luck on your build.

Craig.