abufletcher

Repeat post deleted.

rotorboy2.4gh

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DON-__I used sig STIX-IT-Works awesome-especially on the undercamber.Cant hardly PULL it off!-After you apply it,you can just press the cloth down then iron down,-OR,wait till it dries,then lay the cloth and iron down. (The method i used)!DON,I couldnt help but notice a different post from you about needing Koverall.If so,I can get it or whatever you need and send it to youJust let me know!!

rotorboy2.4gh

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What I used was MIN WAX Polycrylics-ClearSATIN

wphilb

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Thanks!  Does the PolyC tighten as it dries like dope or does it just seal the weave?

rotorboy2.4gh

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NOIt does NOT shrink-BUT,as you can see from my picafter you pre shrink the Koverall with an IronIt STAYS VERY TIGHT!!

wphilb

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OK,

Canuck1

Frank
Glad you went with the Koverall and Polycrylic, you will never go back to dope.
It has held up well on the triplane, and am pretty happy with the result.

Craig

rotorboy2.4gh

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Craig,Yea,I cant thank you enough. This combination is AWESOME,and side by side with a dope job-This is as good if not better!! And the benifits of the NON toxic enviorment,(NOT GETTIN LOOPY)-Its a no brainer!!-So-I am considering my next build and was looking at a Proctor Albatros,-88in-AWESOME PLANE!!!GTM-DR1,DV11-I talked with Balsa Usa guy today,and the 1/3rd Albatros will be ready BEFORE Christmas-It looks to be GREAT and can be seen on youtube Balsa Usa maiden flight.I like and want ALL of them,but must make a deciesion. Ive always wanted to do a proctor kit,I here they are awesome-Any opinnions??

Canuck1

Frank

No real opinion from me on which one to get, or from which kit maker.
I think it boils down, for me anyways, on what you like to build. The amount of scale detail you do, is also up to your own tastes. Remember, the only one that needs to be happy with what you build is you😄
There is so much nice stuff out there these days......can be a hard decision.
Good to se you like to build. Seems there are not as many builders these days with all the ARFs on the market.

I like the albatros, not a common built aircraft, and I think it would be a great flier, with lots of detail that can be added.

Craig

rotorboy2.4gh

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You like the AlbatrosCause you already have the DR1LOL!! I just saw a Balsa 1/3rd scale DV11 at our field that had a good amount of scale detail that was OUTSTANDINGDo you think the BUSA DR1 would be worthy of scaling. I dont have a problem with GMTs price, but if the BUSAs is ok??

abufletcher

Here's how I see it. The Proctor "museum-scale" kits (vs. the smaller VK line they sell) are for builders who first and foremost do scale modeling just because they love scale modeling. That you end up with a neat WWI model to fly is almost incidental. In contrast, the BUSA kits are for guys who first and foremost want to fly (and fly often) and don't mind building. While you can "scale out" a BUSA model, it's my impression that most of these builders-flyers are happy with a good sport-scale rendition. BUSA is a successful company because it provides what most people want: Ease and convenience. The GTM kits are on a par with the Proctor kits.

Regarding the GTM DrI vs. the BUSA DrI (1/3 scale), you need to bear in mind that while the BUSA kit is a couple hundred less that hardly matters when the total cost of building a 1/3 scale kit (including the engine) will be up over $2,000. One estimate put it closer to $2,600. So what's $2,600 vs. $2,400. And with the GTM kit you get a model that is 100% scale right out of the box.

But, as Craig says, the only one who has to be happy with your choice is you!

Canuck1

I love my 1/3 scale GTM DR1 😄

Craig

rotorboy2.4gh

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Thanks guys-Here my problemI like to build more than flyI LIKE SCALE-Im leaning towords the Albatros but like 1/3rd scale I really like the bigger stuff-I just wished Proctor did 1/3rd scaleORGMT did an Albatros-Looks like the Busa Albatros is going to be my choice. In there video,it looks to be of good Scale features, and flys well.-I just always wanted to do a Proctor kit

rotorboy2.4gh

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Just got back to the PUP,as i had some stuff to do on my 1/3rd Nelitz Cub. Anyways,this Koverall is working so well,it almost makes me look good! What I can say is,Im havein a BLAST with it. I will be goin at it pretty hard again here after my little Nelitz Cub break. the Pup is more important to meLOVE THE WW1 warbirds!!-frank!

valleyk

Question to all you 1/3 scale pup owners:

How do i connect the aerolons. Do I install two servos on both sides of the lower wing near aerolon horn and get an extention cable to run to reciever? Is it that simple. Do long extension servo cables cause radio interference?

Steve Percifield

My Feedback: (14)

Yes, it's 1 servo on each side. Use cables long enough to make a connection at the wing fuse joint when you attach the wing. Modern radios have no issues with the extensions. You will have a joiner rod that you connect to the upper wings aileron from the lower wing.

Eindecker_pilot

I'll 2nd what Steve said. Exactly how I did it on my Pup. For the joiner rod between the lower & upper ailerons, this is a good application for carbon fiber rod. It's thin, neat, & very rigid.

rotorboy2.4gh

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Glad to see other guys are still interested in the PUP

rotorboy2.4gh

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Hey Craig, ya still out there? I just got back to the pup two weeks ago. Summers are hard for me to get some building done. Started makeing my own fake rib stitch tape. Turned out awesome. I really like the satisfaction it gave me doing it myself,as well as learning how. Looks like Craig has not been on in awhile. Has anyone heard from him. Frank.

Canuck1

Hello frank
I am still here milling about.
Just have not been on line much, spend most of my time on RC Scalebuilder.

Craig

mothy1946

Hello fellow Pup builders,

I also used carbon fibre to join the upper and lower wing ailerons.

To make them extra rigid I used a 4 40 threaded rod as the core and then epoxied this into a carbon fibre smaller diameter tube and surrounded this with another tight fitting one again epoxied inside the first so effectively there are 3 layers. Rod, carbon fibre tube and second carbon fibre tube with an outer diameter of 5 mm.
This resulted in as very rigid structure so that there is little if any bending even under heavy loads.
One end of the threaded rod was bent into a z bend to attach to the horn of the lower aileron and the other one had a heavy duty lockable dubro clevis srewed onto it for adjustment of length.
the original kit provides a piece of wood ( if I remember correctly as it is a while since I did this) the same size as used in the cabanes to be shaped as an aileron connector and although this would also result in a rigid stucture it just doesn't look right as the full size original aircraft had the ailerons joined by wire in a closed loop configuration.
The carbon fibre method is still not "scale" but is a much better look and works well.

Cheers,

Tim

rotorboy2.4gh

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Hey Buddy, just checkin in with ya. Just got back to the PUP. I was very busy with work in the summer here. Just started flying again as well.I should be done with the pup in about 30 days. Did you ever get your Mustang goin? Whats on your list? Ive pre ordered the Busa 1/3rd Albatros.

rotorboy2.4gh

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Craig, I have to be honest,It feels odd not seeing you in an awesome build. You have anything special you are looking to build. I sure hope the Master is not slowing down.Im looking forwaRD TO THE bUSA 1/3RD Albatros.

Canuck1

Master, lol, you are making me laugh.
Not near that quality. Mustang has not budged. I am still debating the power plant, and did not want to part with the cost, but ended up spending more money on the DR1.
Nothing special on the building board at the moment. A Ziroli Stuka has always intrigued me, so that might be a future project. Eastern white paint scheme is the color I like.
Glad to hear you are back on the pup, wish I still had mine.
So many planes I would like to build, so little time.

Craig

valleyk

1/3 sopwith pup covering tips.I’m at a point in my life to cover this beast. Will one ten meter roll of solartex do it. Can I cover the wing in sections or does it have to be one piece top and bottom. Worried that the fabric seam ironed together will separate at rib joint when shrinking using the section method. Also still toying with the idea of pull pull cable ailerons but can’t figure out how to have a redundant system using two servos not fighting each other.