valleyk

Third flight report. Reduced down thrust as much as I could before dummy engine makes contact with engine shaft. I put an incidence meter on the wing and picked tail of plane to zero out meter and prop down thrust looks almost no existent. I do have 2.5 degrees right thrust but that seems to keep plane tracking straight on take off. The plane was trimmed as best as I could get it but it seems its not a hands off flying plane. Need to correct elevator every few moments not too bad but annoying. My instructor thinks it fly great and is forgiving on stall and he used to fly crop dusting stearmans and say's the aerodynamics of this plane is dirty and I should not be complaining. I clean this plane as best I can so I don't know what he meant by dirty.

TKFOKKER

Why the right 2.5 degrees? For take off? Use your rudder. Yes they are very dirty to fly so to speak. Most certainly not a pattern plane! WW-1 models require lots of thumb action and attention to fly. That's what makes them so much fun!!!!!!
TK

vertical grimmace

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Tom, this thing should be a piece of cake to fly compared to your GTM Fokker DR1. Nice to hear you got it working.

I have my triplane flying nicely now as well. It seems there are always little things that have to be ironed out at first. I think I still have a small leak at my carb somewhere, as it will not idle down all the way. I am in the middle of moving my shop right now, but will get after that as soon as I am settled. Got some stuff called Yamabond, that is supposed to be the cats meow for carb mounting. We shall see.

vertical grimmace

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TK.....sent you a PM.

rotorboy2.4gh

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Can anyone tell me what each wing incidence is suppose to be as well as the top center section and tail. Frank.

rotorboy2.4gh

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Craig,do you remember each wing incidence,along with top center section as well as the tail.Frank.

crashwilson

I had the same question for my 1/3 Sopwith I'am building.I called Balsa U.S.A and talkedwith there tec. Hewas very helpfull and I feel that my plane will fly very well now. he told me that the pup is avery forgiving AIRPLANE.hE ALSO GAVE ME THE INFO THAT i WAS LOOKING FOR.With the horizontal tail at 0(or level) you need from 1 to 2 degrees positive on the upper wings(starting with center section)and 1 to 2 degrees negitive on the bottom wings.So I set mine up and sure enough I have 2degrees on my upper wings(and I used my incedence robart gauge to measue from center section all the way out to were the ailerons start) and I have 1degree negitive on the bottom wings. I then called Dave back and he informed me that I could'nt ask for anything better then that.I hope this helps you, i know I was pleased to be so close on my first try. Crashwilson

rotorboy2.4gh

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Hey Crash----I just got back to finish mine,as i had some health issues. I ad seen you here when you first got on,then i had to have surgry. My plans measure just the opposite---On the top center section,it shows the leading edge down-which is negitive.--?????????

crashwilson

Rotorboy, These numbers were given to me by Balsa U.S.A tec.You might want to call them and verify what I gave you is right.The number is 1-906 863-6421 and ask for Dave! Let me know what He tells you so we are on the same page.I don't want to lock this thing down if your right, i'am also going in this month for my second rotater cuff surjury, so I won't be doing to much on my plane for awhile.Nice talking to you and keep in touch.....Crash

rotorboy2.4gh

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Hey Crash,i think your right with the nubers,as i have read similar elswhere.I will call dave tomorrow as well to comfirm and get right back with you tomorrow.To ME,it just looks like the leading edge is lower on the plans. But im getting like Magoo--LOL!--And yes--lets keep in touch. 314-6295853--Frank.-----I think Craig (Canuck1) got burnt out a little,as he doesnt respond. He was my inspiration on this,as well as so many others. He is a buildin fool. I know he is in the Military,maybe doing some duty. If so,I pray for his safe return.

crashwilson

Rotorboy,I'am glad you got back so quick. LIke I said I did not want to pass on any wrong information that is so important as that and be wrong. Thats why I called the experts.And this Dave was a real nice guy to talk to.I did get get alot of good advice from the guys that have already built Sopwiths on this site and I thank them all for their help.I'am at the stage of getting this wing stuff correct,and then I will move on to the flying wires.If I recover from this surjury fast enough I hope to start covering and have her ready to fly this spring.I looked at the prints last night and if you measure the outter stuts,they measure about 18 inchs(on the print),so mine are right on the money.Then I measured from the outter edge of the center section of the upper wing,to the center of the lower wing and I got something like 16 inchs.Can't be true or my outter stuts are to long).If you look at the print that shows a front view of the fuslodge with wings attached and measure you'll see what I mean.(may have to call dave again.Becase the print also shows that the front struts are roughly 18 inchs.Anyway if I can figure out how to put photo's on this thing I'll send some.(not to computer savy as you might say.Us old guys have to get help from our grandkids!!!!! Crash

rotorboy2.4gh

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Hey Crash--call me if you can tomorrow if you can,as i see issues on the plans--314-6295853

crashwilson

Rotorboy,Got all my stuts on now and I'am getting ready to drill holes for tangs. I took your advive and added two more tangs next to the ones that I had installed already(they would be the ones one the fuslodge).So now all I have to make up are the ones on the upper struts.Still trying to figure out how to attach those turnbuckles tho.If I do double flying wires in the front,and singles in the back, I,am going to need 12 more of the turnbuckles(60 more bucks).Tuesday is surjury day,and I can only hope for a speedy recovery.I want to start covering this plane, and I am going with your suggestion on the covering!!I did look into that sound for the machine gun.Tower Hobby has one for 34.00 not sure what it would sound like.Nice yakkin at ya the other day,glad we got all that wing stuff covered.

crashwilson

Crashwilson here again,back after my surjury and ready to go on my Sopwith again.Question!!!After using CA glue today The fumes got to me, started coughing and could tell this stuff is bothering my lungs.What can I use instead? I like the fast drying process but Inturn I don't want to kill myself.Whats out there that is nontoxic and a good glue to use in confined areas?

warbirdmustang

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Either odder less CA, or else use Titebond wood glue, it works great just takes longer to dry. A lot easier to sand too.

crashwilson

I'am at the point with my Pup to start hooking up the flight controls, I have a LiFe 6.6 battery with regulater and on&off switch mounted by the cowl. I put a Spektrum AR7010 with satellite,Placed all wiring in the proper channels,placed the hot side of the switch in AUX 1 and proceeded to bind to my DX9.I turned the switch to the on position and all I got was a short blip of the reciever light.The light does not flash rapidly, it just blips when you turn the switch on or off. Any suggestions(other than take it back). I diffinently don't want to take any chances with a reciever. Thanks Crash,

valleyk

I thought this is worth sharing. I found it funny that a full scale sopwith looks as hard to build as a 1/3 scale.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcHVb9G2fvg

redball8

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That is impressive. But I think the full -scale is a bit more work!

leadgofer

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I'm rebuilding a nicely built one of these that was CRUSHED by FED EX. The plans show the spread of the top of the V of the cabanes to be 19", which puts the edge of the cabane touching the inside of the outer ribs of the center section. I can't get the incidence correct without spreading the front cabanes to the 19" distance. I noticed in the fourth picture that your cabanes don't touch the outside ribs, similar to what mine lookes like. How did you get the incedence set with out raising the back end? Would it be worth correcting the cabane slots in the fuse to get the correct angle?

AMA 74894

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can anyone tell me if BOTH large wing spars (forward and aft, on the underside of each wing) are supposed to be HARDWOOD?
my kit has only 8 pieces of stock that are LONG enough to be these spars... 4 are spruce / bass/ hardwood but the other 4 are balsa...
is that correct, or should all the big wing spars be hardwood?

AMA 74894

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I've gotta say it, the guys at BUSA are TOP notch.
BOTH spars on the LOWER wing are hardwood.
BOTH on the top wing are BALSA.
"lower wings use hardwood because WHEN (not IF ) you groundloop, the lower wing is what usually takes the abuse.

gotta love a company that not only knows what part goes where, but also knows WHY.

I love Balsa USA!

4570jackjack

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Subscribed, I have one on the way.

chandley43231

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gotta find out of the mod connection to the lower wings which dave told me it secures better ?

vertical grimmace

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Yes, Balsa USA is top notch. They offer some of the greatest products we have right now. It is good to support them as much as we can.

AMA 74894

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I'd like to hear more about this one... can you post a link of description?