R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Hey AndyF

Your fuse is looking pretty snazzy........if you are serious about a reduction drive unit you probably need to scope if out before too much more work gets done on the front of your fuse.......modifications might be needed in order to fit the engine/reduction-drive unit to the front end of your plane.

I agree that useful weight is much better than lead!

Cheers,
Art

AndyF

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks that's a good thought Art. The good news is I have plenty of room and I can make adjustments as needed. I have to decide between the Mick Reeves unit and the one from Vogelsang.

Andy

eagledancer

keep in mind with the reeves unit it actually performs better with magnito ign. found mine performed best with a 30x14 xoar prop. and use a spring starter! with this setup prop is always in a different position on compression. 3 different length prop adaptors can be had from ziroli plans. depending oh how deep you need it to clear a dummy engine. i have seen the vogelsang run and it is also a very sweet setup. but you have to slap the prop to get it to fire. so its not the normal starting procedure. you also can use a more scale size prop.
volgelsang is 2:1 reduction
reeves is 1.75:1 reduction

thevirginian

He Andy,
Amazing work what you are doing. I am far behind you. I just started the fuse. Tail feathers are done, so far. I am planning to power mine with an EME-70 Twin. Looks like a decent motor for this plane. Can't beat the price either. $499.00 at MilehighRC.com
Alex

AndyF

My Feedback: (2)

That's great info eagledancer. I wonder if you can use a regular starter with the reduction setup.

Andy

AndyF

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Alex,

I'm having fun with it.

Mine already has the wings and tail feathers built but the construction is so bad that I'm going to have reglue every joint just to make sure it is strong enough to fly.

I started this thread for my rebuild: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-s...l#post11909806

Teus

Andy,

The Schlundt (Vogelsang) reduction works very well on this Pup. You only need to make some space in the fuselage if you want to use the special exhaust also.

See HERE for a nice video that shows the performance, most flown at 1/4 to 1/2 power.

AndyF

My Feedback: (2)

Teus, that is very nice! I love the sound of the engine. Is this your Pup?

Andy

Teus

She is Andy,

More details HERE at RCSB.

AndyF

My Feedback: (2)

Nice Job Teus! I always enjoy seeing how other guys solve problems.

I bought the Mick Reeves flat flying wires because I couldn't afford to buy the airfoil flying wires that are available from a Swiss company.
I'm doing the scale landing gear with 5/16" steel heavy wall tubing. Once I build a jig, I will be welding the tubing using a flux core welder.
I also have the Mick Reeves instrument panel but after I put it together, I decided that I want something that is more true to scale so I'm looking around. Vogelsang has his Pup panel for $250 but that is too much for me to spend, although it looks like you are looking at the scale panel.

Andy

thevirginian

Andy,
your love to details is incredible. That's what building such an airplane is all about. I did pretty much the same thing when I built my 1/4
scale BUSA D7. Here are a few pictures

AndyF

My Feedback: (2)

Very nice Virginian. I love the details. You cockpit looks great! I've discovered that getting the scale look is all about adding layers to your build. The more layers the more scale it looks. Here is the link to the new thread I created for my build: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-s...l#post11909806

This is my throttle quadrant. I still need to add some pieces to it, and I have to make the bracket to hold it to the side of the fuse. I am also planning to add the rods to the levers that go to the throttle and choke. I am thinking about connecting them to a "Y" cable and slave them to the throttle and choke so they move with the radio.

AndyF

My Feedback: (2)

deleted - duplicate post

foodstick

I sure am getting anxious to drag the ole Pup out to the field.....

rotorboy2.4gh

My Feedback: (2)

Foodstick-Awesome!!! I am now back to completing the PUP. Great job on yours. I will be picking up where i left off,its been a while,but NO WAY its not getting done.Its to GREAT of a plane. I will be posting pics again shortly. HEY Crash wilson,if your still out there,sound off,maybe i can spark you back up to.

rotorboy2.4gh

My Feedback: (2)

I am kicking around the idea of using a ASP 65cc 5cyl radial. Should be plenty as well as help with the cg with not much if any added weight up front.I just have to consider wanting a scale size prop/32-62 with gear reduction. I have seen the asp on a mick reaves pup and looked and sounded awesome.--SO-- THE COOL factor of the radial,or the scale prop with the slower prop speed. ANY thoughts would be greatly listened to.

jeffo

My Feedback: (68)

Rotorboy,
On my buddy's pup we put an O.S. radial,G-62,and the Mick reeves prop reduction.The best choice for BUSA 1/3 N17,N28,DR1,and the pup is a zenoah G-80 twin hands down.Over the years we've experimented with the right combo for all these planes and for us the G-80 worked the best.jeffo

rotorboy2.4gh

My Feedback: (2)

Jeffo,thanks-i am looking at a 70 twin as we speak

rotorboy2.4gh

My Feedback: (2)

Frank,im glad you can make light from your loss.Myself,It makes me sad,as i have seen your awesome specimen on here for a long time.Do you have plans to maybe build another.

chandley43231

My Feedback: (2)

hi guys want to let you know there is always a chance to win best in show at a event with your pup

chandley43231

My Feedback: (2)

dear god couldnt delete the spitfire cut sheet

rotorboy2.4gh

My Feedback: (2)

I am getting ready to paint now with latex. Can someone recomend how much to thin the paint out. Thanks in advance.

redball8

My Feedback: (128)

50/50 works for me - use windshield washer fluid to thin the paint, and add a little Floetrol if you have it. See Roy Vaillancourt's paper #1 and #2 on the subject..

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

You want the paint to be about the consistency of milk. The final thinning depends on several factors. Your Psi that you are using, who's paint it is and what gun you are using.

rotorboy2.4gh

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks guys.Got the first coats on and working good. What is a top coat used for gas protection over latex?