BobH

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You may not need anything for gas. If you want to use a clear you can use Nelsons clear or Klass Kote two part clear.

redball8

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For gas, you don't need to protect the latex. Just let it cure a couple of weeks.

rotorboy2.4gh

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Thanks guys--Bob,and others,what are your thoughts on--im using my own imitation rib stitching--stitching the top surfaces and just taping the bottom.

BobH

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I'm sure you can get away with it without a notice. Who sees the stitching on the wing bottom unless you show it to them?

rotorboy2.4gh

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Darnit Bob,I figured you would say that. Just feelin guilty and was kinda hopin you would say-MAN,after all the work your gonna get lazy now. I know NOBODY would ever know but me. I have seen more doing that. Dont know why it bothers me.

rotorboy2.4gh

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I was going to use a ASP 400r 5cyl radial /65cc/ but some have said go with a 80 twin. Your thoughts please.

BobH

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ASP radial 400. I think that may be a bit under powered. I'm putting an Evlotion 160 in my 1/3 pup. Over powered but I have a throttle!
Aw man! After ALL that work! No stitches on the bottom???? LOL
Hey I understand. I'm the same way. But this time I might cheat like you suggested!

rotorboy2.4gh

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I may just cheat this time as, first--im going to be working out of town in about 4 weeks for a couple months and really want to maiden this plane. ALSO,I THINK I WILL BE GETTING A 70 TWIN I FOUND THATS NEW AND SWINGS THE SAME PROP AS THE 80. Im not one to under power ANYTHING. I come from the same school as you--The throttle was put there for a reason. Thanks Bob.I will keep you posted on the progress. This is my first scale plane and now seeing mick reaves kits will really just get this together and fly-fly-fly. Next will be a MR or Glen T. Dont get me wrong-been at this for 35 yrs and have done ton of silk and dope,just fell in love with the scale stuff. I have learned a ton from you guys on here in a very short time. So enjoyable,especially having people like you,foodstick.Pook,and CANUCK/CRAIG. You all bring this hobby the good name it deservers.

foodstick

If I helped out I am glad just to see people building their skills and their planes..

rotorboy2.4gh

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You absolutely did!!!! I followed this thread and you guys for a year and inspired me to the point of building the PUP.I have watched and paid attention. I have been an experienced builder,but you guys led me to the love of scale with your passion and mostly, awesome skills. This is really my second scale kind of. Been building a Bob Nelitz 1/3rd cub,but finally set that aside to finish this. I will now take on only one at a time to completion. Its to hard to juggle two or more.--SO,YES--Thank You!! Ready for a quick sanding then paint

foodstick

Is that the light weight ceconite? and the gap less hinges made with covering ? It sure looks like the way I have been doing it .... Putting the hinges on that way is a bit of an extra pain. but it makes them effective and work well.

BobH

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Good job on the stitching. Your experience with silk and dope will pay dividens for sure.
i bought soft linen for my plane like the full scale use. I built a GT FOKKER DVI and used his lozenge fabric which is also linen. Talk about robust!

rotorboy2.4gh

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NAH,Its just the angle your seeing at. It is just hinges.It is sig koveall and min wax poly. I use to do gap less on pattern planes. On those,its almost a must.

rotorboy2.4gh

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I dont know about how good,its my first attempt at it.Hopfully i will get better after watchin all you guys.I would like to do GTs DVI,or Tripe next,or maybe Mick Reaves big Stutter. Those kits are so much more scale for not all that much more change. Im a little dissapointed as i just ordered a machine gun kit from Arizona and as soon as i hit the BUY button,i get a mes that it could be 8 weeks before it even ships. Not to shocked,When they first opened up,i ordered a Wright Flyer--3rd scale,and had to demand my money back after three months of the kit not being ready yet. UHHHHH!!!!!

BobH

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Just so you know.. Glenn doesn't make ANY kits any longer. He has a 1/3 SE5 in the works. But.... its in the works lol..
You'll need to find one on the secondary market

rotorboy2.4gh

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You are correct.I talked with him on the phone a couple days ago and hes kind of burned out after 25 years he said.He did say he thinks he will bring back short kits at some point,but is still getting the full se5a ready for sale in about 3 months. Can you tell me what everyone is using to secure the tangs. Thru screws with nuts or wood screws with glue for the flying wires?

olivier75_fr2002

Hi,

I bought the Sopwith Pup 1/3 Balsa USA kit few weeks ago. I did the tail (rudder and stabilizer) and I am ready to start the wings. I read the drawings, and I have a question, for which I did not find answer in those last 39 pages: wing have dihedrals. But when I look at the ribs, all the holes that are supposed to receive the dowels are located at the same place. So far, as it is, there is no dihedral?
If someone can take few minutes to put me on the good way, I will appreciate.

Thanks,

Olivier

chandley43231

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Your deihedral come from your insistence in your wing set up call balsa usa there Tec is great he will help I flew mine for the first time after a massive rebuild flew great going for it agian today

redball8

My Feedback: (128)

I think it's the rigging that gives the wings dihedral - the dowels just plug into the fuselage or center section. It's not like having an aluminum wing tube.

olivier75_fr2002

Here are two pictures I found on the Web:
The first, looks like with no dihedral, as I fear.
The second, I understand the guy had the same concern as I have, and "customized" the position of the hole in the 2nd rib of the wing to get the dihedral naturally.

eagledancer

the way i did it was with a round file on the second rib then using a piece of ply with a hole in it glueing it in at the correct position for 3 degrees

foodstick

You could also remove a LITTLE of the wood on the bottom of the wooden dowl out near the tip to possible get a bit more dihedral...

eagledancer

if you have not yet glued the dowels in the center section you would be very wise to glue the dowels in the wing panels and have them slide into the center section! they are very easy to break off moving the model around when glued in the center section

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I think Eagle has the solution.

olivier75_fr2002

Balsa USA sent me an answer to my question. They have been very responsive. Very good point!
They confirm that the dihedral is given by the rigging, and that the aim of dowels is just to keep the wing aligned and maintain the wing's incidence.

I don't like this solution! So, after making some search on the web, I decided to install wing tubes. I am going to replace the 3/8" oak dowels by 3/8" carbon rod, with tube, so I will not have a chance to damage them during transportation. Worst case, I may forgot them at home, but I never saw that it may cause a crash :-)

and i I will install the rigging, plus fix my wings to the fuselage as I usually do in my F3A, I don't want take any risk. It is a big and heavy plane, furthermore if you consider that my biggest plane is a F3A!

thanks folks, it is good to get advice, and be supported.

and sorry for my English....it is quite bad, but I'm working on it to make it better..... :-)

Olivier