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  1. #1076
    abufletcher's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Excellent outside-the-box thinking! Now no one can claim they don't have space for one!

  2. #1077
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    That looks awsome. I do like your set up.
    I found pulleys at Home Depot. They are made for screen doors. 1 inch diameter 1/4 inch thick and 3/16th deep.
    They fit well on the spar. Lots of room to put them at the right angle, and they are nice and deep to take the cable. The metal tab is long enough to add an additional screw to secure them to the spar, and they have a bit of flex. These might work well and I have attached a few pics of how they would look against the spar.

    I put the bottom and mid wing on the fuselage. I needed to check the alignment for the outer struts. Using string and a weight I ran a line from the mid wing mark down past the bottom wing. It ligned up pretty good, and will not close these in, or drill the holes for the bolts until I have the top wing aligned and mounted.

    Bottom wing did need a slight sanding to bring the wing spar to level. I leveled the wing by lifting the fuselage tail up until the wing is level. The incidence is built into the bottom wing mount. I will use this for alignment of the mid and top wing. It is a great place to start.
    The mounts for the midwing, were pretty roughly cut, so I need to sand them next to bring the mid wing in alignment with the bottom wing.

    I also took this oportunity to place on the top wing using clamps and paint stur sticks, just to get an idea of the size. As you can see by the pic, I a pretty proud of my baby thus far

    Craig
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  3. #1078
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Did some work on the mounting of the metal brackets for the aluminum struts. I will beef up the mounting rail onto the sides of the plyribs, just for better piece of mind.
    I am not to sure if I like the bolt with the nut in this maner. Glueing the bolt in would be fine, if it came loose I would have to get at it.
    I was thinking I may go with a blind nut, then when the bolt is secured it can be loctited into position.

    deljon/valleyk what did you do, go with the standard arrangement or the blind nut method.

    The metal brackets are going to require some bending to get a good angle.
    More pics as I progress. I really want to take my time with the top wing set up.

    Craig
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  4. #1079
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    After thinking about it, I decided the blind nuts are the way to go. I did not like the bolt idea, it was bothering me [:@]

    I attached the blind nuts to some hardwood and they are CA'd into location. Front nuts went on pretty easy, neede a bit of surgery to get the aft nuts in.


    Craig
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  5. #1080
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Howdy Craig,

    I did it the standard way, but I also threaded the hard wood, ran the screw in, glued the head then let some thin CA
    wick down the threads of the screw and wood.
    But, like you said if the glue came loose, it would be a pain.

    I like your idea of the blind nut, but I also like having the lock nut securing the bracket.
    I think an easy solution that I will do on my next one is to put in the blind nuts like you did, run the screw down, then
    use Stay-Bright to soldier the head of the screw to the blind nut. Should be pretty secure.............

    Del
    FOKKERS FOREVER

  6. #1081
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Del

    That sounds like it would work pretty good. I plan on using a lock washer with the bolt, as well I may put some loctite on the bolts when it is at final assembly.

    The blind nuts worked real well. I bent the mounting bracket to the correct angle, and cut the struts so they slide over the metal bracket. I drilled some holes like you did. They did not line up as good as I wanted, still managed to get a bolt and nut attached.
    Now the fun begins, "J" bolts etc. I think it will take a bit of tedious work to align everything.

    Craig
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  7. #1082
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Looking good
    If you use loctite be sure to use the Blue type, it holds very well but is easy removable if need be.
    With the red you need to use heat to loosen.

    Del
    FOKKERS FOREVER

  8. #1083
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Yes, Blue loctite is the way to go

    Craig
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  9. #1084
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    I put the struts on the brackets, slid in the music wire and mounted the top wing. I am using clamps on the music wire to hold it while I make minor adjustments.
    I still need to do some more triming to get a good fit before JB welding into location.

    Craig
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  10. #1085
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Spent a few hours this evening getting it all lined up and true.
    Next I will need to drill the holes for the "J" bolts, then put it all together again to confirm things are still good.
    I think when I do JB weld the components, I will have DR1 withdrawl while I wait for it to cure.
    I placed it on my bench to get it off the floor, I do like the size of theis plane

    Craig
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  11. #1086
    abufletcher's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    This may be one of the best kits EVER produced! And you're doing a fantastic job on yours. [8D]

  12. #1087
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    This is one of the best kits I have built.
    I am happy with it, and Glenn @ GTM has done a great job. I do look forward to seeing his 1/3 SE5, should be a showstopper of an airplane.
    Turned the plane around on my bench this morning, set the cowl on and took a couple pictures. Man this is looking good [8D]
    I hope to do the JB welding today.

    Craig
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  13. #1088

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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    It's the great kit. This is the only plane I built in my modeling career that I did not have to add any nose weight. Every ww1 plane I built in the past needed two to three pounds nose weight to balance. There is one problem you will find with the kit...the steel dowels joining the outer wing struts have too much play because the holes in brk's are too large. My solution was to get steel washers and file to size for snug fit then use JB weld to bond to brks so steel dowel is shimed to reduce play. My two cents.

  14. #1089
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    valleyk

    That's good to know when I get to that stage, appreciate the heads up.

    "J" bolts are in location, next will be the mixing up of my JB weld and putting it all together again, and let it set up.
    I like the way the top and Mid wing are removed at the same time.

    Craig
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  15. #1090
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    She is all JB welded up. Did it last night. I always find when I do critical parts of the build, it becomes mentally draining[&:]

    I checked my alignment of the outer strut locations. It is bang on. So before I take it apart there are a few things I willl do at this point.
    Put some wood stoppers at the ends of the music wire, great idea Del
    Attach my strut mounting brackets, install the plywood backing for the bolts, make the fittings and the struts.
    Might as well go that route as she is sitting all aligned.

    Craig
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  16. #1091
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Lots accomplished today.
    Drilled and attached the metal tabs for the outer wooden struts, and loctited the nuts.
    Put all the remainder of the spar webbing in location, now the spar is completely sealed up.
    Made the outer strut metal brackets, now they are formed to shape.
    Made some test strut pieces out of 1/4 balsa to get the angles correct and the fit, turned out well.
    First coat of sandable primer is on the struts that I glassed.
    I am happy with how it is all ligning up. I am glad I decided to do the struts at this time.
    Before I take it apart I will mount the wood struts.[8D]

    Craig
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  17. #1092
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Been filling and wet sanding the wooden struts

    Started on the bottom wing tip skids. Cut them out of the provided piece of wood.
    A brass tube is attached to the front and in turn secured to the wing mounts. I drew the tube on the front, then angled cut some hardwood away. The using my trusty sand paper and wood block, reduced the diameter so the brass tube slides on. Still need to do the other one, as well as taper down the front end so it matches the brass tube.

    Craig
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  18. #1093
    abufletcher's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Your pace is amazing!

  19. #1094
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Hi Del, here is how I'm setting up my cable runs for the ailerons, I got the pulleys and cable on Amazon, made the the pulley mounts so they swivel with the control arms, there is a tube within a tube, and the inner tube has a stop soldered on and is mounted to the ribs with ply reinforcements. I ran the cables through the mid wing into little pieces of nylon tube to keep them in place when they are being moved. I had to cut out the back of the ammo box to cover the servos.
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  20. #1095
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    cjthomas

    That looks great, I too will do cables when I get to that stage.
    Wing tip skids are done, and installed. Still need final sanding and staining.

    Craig
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  21. #1096
    abufletcher's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    A question: The stressed pivot point for these skids would be at the rear bracket. But it doesn't look like the bracket holds the woods firmly at this point. Later will there be some sort of pin that goes through the bracket and through the wood?

  22. #1097
    Canuck1's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    They dont call for any type of pin. I was also concerned about the same point. Where the rear bracket is tightened to the mount it pulls the top of the bracket tight. Not to sure if you can see the top of the bracket being compressed together in the previous picture.

    Craig
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  23. #1098

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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    The rear bracket design on the wing skid is not the problem. I clamped it the same way works fine and needs to pivot. However once you ground loop and hit the wing skid the little brass metal tab in the front slot will bend off and yield. I replaced that brass tube with spring steel. Much stronger but still having problems with it bending. Those skids are so important otherwise your wing tips break.

  24. #1099
    abufletcher's Avatar
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    On the original the "spring" in this assembly would be in the wood itself, specifically the length behind the rear attachment point. Otherwise, you really would need some kind of "sprung" attachment point up front. I'm afraid that that little brace bracket is going to be squished instead of holding rigid so that the wood flexes. No obviously there is difference in materials strength due to scale here. But I think I'd want both forward bracket to allow no movement whatsoever...but also allow me to easily replace broken skids. Still, it's better for the skid(or the brackets) to break than the wing.

  25. #1100
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    RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along

    Good points on the wing tip skids []

    I may have to look into this further when nearing completion.
    ValleyK............any other recomendations? Can you post a picture of your set up with the modification that you made.
    Del............ any issues with this set up on your DR1, regarding the bending of the front brass?

    Stained the skids, looks pretty good, placed them on, its a good place for them to dry.
    As well the wooden struts are glassed, sanded, primered, sanded, etc. They look pretty good. I hope to get them installed tomorrow.

    Craig
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