Gee Bees ?
#51
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I bought the R-2 Kit from Adrian Page. The kit looks very good. I am going to build it as light as posible and am going to convert it to electric power. Anyone has built one yet?
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Brian ,
I bought the R2 kit too....have yet to start it. I plan to power mine with a Saito .91 as Adrian has with his. I don't see why his R2 kit wouldn't make for a good electric conversion.....looks like it is going to be a light design, not a whole lot of wood in that box...
What do you think of the glass cowl? I think it is pretty good for the price of the kit.....
I bought the R2 kit too....have yet to start it. I plan to power mine with a Saito .91 as Adrian has with his. I don't see why his R2 kit wouldn't make for a good electric conversion.....looks like it is going to be a light design, not a whole lot of wood in that box...
What do you think of the glass cowl? I think it is pretty good for the price of the kit.....
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Derrick,
I also bought the glass wheel pants too. The glass work is top rate. I can get an Actro Motor (24-5)that weighs only 12 oz, swing a 16 x 6 prop on 14 cells(30oz) about 6000 rpm. Is that close to a Saito .91?
I also bought the glass wheel pants too. The glass work is top rate. I can get an Actro Motor (24-5)that weighs only 12 oz, swing a 16 x 6 prop on 14 cells(30oz) about 6000 rpm. Is that close to a Saito .91?
#54
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Adrian Page Gee Bee Z
Hey Guys
I just got my Z. What an impressive kit! I would say one of the best deals on the market for the price. The fiberglass cowl is one of the best ive seen. The lazer cut parts are above average and the plans are very good. It should be a breeze to build. I know you asked about the landing geart but I don't know what the old set looked like to compare. I can't wait to get started. I'll post some pictures as I go along.
I just got my Z. What an impressive kit! I would say one of the best deals on the market for the price. The fiberglass cowl is one of the best ive seen. The lazer cut parts are above average and the plans are very good. It should be a breeze to build. I know you asked about the landing geart but I don't know what the old set looked like to compare. I can't wait to get started. I'll post some pictures as I go along.
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I just acquired a Page GeeBee about two weeks ago and is it a plast to fly. Landings are a different story. Even with a greased landing it wants to flip over as mentioned in the thread. I have moved the landing gear forward 3/4 of an inch to help correct this problem. Has anyone tried the new gear from Page Yet? Went out this morning to fly it again and wind gust were a little to much. I can't believe how good this plane takes off and flys. Thanks
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I'm building a 72" R-2 with a Saito 180. It should weigh around 12 lbs when completed. The only c.g. I've heard of is 18-20%.
Is that accurate ? I also have a 43" r-2 from plans and it's at aroung 20% . Where are you balancing yours ?
Thanks,
Dale
Is that accurate ? I also have a 43" r-2 from plans and it's at aroung 20% . Where are you balancing yours ?
Thanks,
Dale
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GeeBee Z
Here is my build from one of the Adrian Page original kits:
It flies great! A smooth grass runway is a must. Mine does not like hard surfaces at all. Taxiing and takeoff pose no problems, although one must be careful with the elevator due to the height of the fuselage above the ground. This is not difficult, it just needs a bit of care.
Landings require more attention....the tailskid needs to be firmly planted on the runway and held there until the model comes to a complete stop. I have only flipped it twice - one was an unseen pothole in the landing area, the second time, I relaxed the elevator before the GeeBee had stopped.
Unfortunately, after many hours of building, finishing, and detailing my GeeBee, the blasted ARF came out, so I have to answer the inevitable question...
It is a model that I am proud to bring out to the field. It generates a lot of attention is very impressive in flight......
It flies great! A smooth grass runway is a must. Mine does not like hard surfaces at all. Taxiing and takeoff pose no problems, although one must be careful with the elevator due to the height of the fuselage above the ground. This is not difficult, it just needs a bit of care.
Landings require more attention....the tailskid needs to be firmly planted on the runway and held there until the model comes to a complete stop. I have only flipped it twice - one was an unseen pothole in the landing area, the second time, I relaxed the elevator before the GeeBee had stopped.
Unfortunately, after many hours of building, finishing, and detailing my GeeBee, the blasted ARF came out, so I have to answer the inevitable question...
It is a model that I am proud to bring out to the field. It generates a lot of attention is very impressive in flight......
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I e-mailed Derrick and Nony with a couple of questions. I am looking for experienced answers on where the c.g. should be located. My kit has a 72" span and a 12" cord.
Thanks,
Dale
Thanks,
Dale
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It is a prototype arf , I bought it on e-bay and don't know it's origin. It came without grafics or instructions. It is a very nice quality with glass fuse , cowel , and wheel pants. I'm shooting for 12 lbs with a saito 180. The wing is 72" with a 11 7/8 cord. I'm not sure of the c.g. and am asking for opinions.?
Thanks,
Dale
Thanks,
Dale
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Gee Bee CG
Dale,
All the Gee Bee R-2 kits and plans I know of recommend 18-20% for the CG. This seems to work out pretty good for most. I had a smaller .40-.60 sized built from plans (originally a rubber band powered free flight model) and it flew great. I have the Hostetler 25% I am building now and that is what I will be using. I have heard of some people that went back as far as 22%.
I crashed my little one when I started experimenting with the CG. It was getting worn out anyway so i thought I might see how far back I could get it. I was progressively moving it farther and farther back with each flight. Anything beyond 22% the elevator got real sensitive. At about 25% you barely had to think about moving the elevator and it would dive or climb. When I approached 30%, one notch of trim was the difference between diving and climbing. It basically was too sensitive and I couldn't get the thing pointed back towards the runway. I put it into the weeds and rekitted it. I think the short fuselage makes this one very pitch sensitive with CG changes.
I would start out between 18% and 20% and move it back if you don't like the way it flies.
All the Gee Bee R-2 kits and plans I know of recommend 18-20% for the CG. This seems to work out pretty good for most. I had a smaller .40-.60 sized built from plans (originally a rubber band powered free flight model) and it flew great. I have the Hostetler 25% I am building now and that is what I will be using. I have heard of some people that went back as far as 22%.
I crashed my little one when I started experimenting with the CG. It was getting worn out anyway so i thought I might see how far back I could get it. I was progressively moving it farther and farther back with each flight. Anything beyond 22% the elevator got real sensitive. At about 25% you barely had to think about moving the elevator and it would dive or climb. When I approached 30%, one notch of trim was the difference between diving and climbing. It basically was too sensitive and I couldn't get the thing pointed back towards the runway. I put it into the weeds and rekitted it. I think the short fuselage makes this one very pitch sensitive with CG changes.
I would start out between 18% and 20% and move it back if you don't like the way it flies.
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Dale My wing cord is 10 3/4 in and the ballance point is 2 1/8 from the leading edge. This is per instructions and it flys really nice and not sensitive. I have the controll set per ins also. elev 7/16 up and down, ail 1/2 up and down rud 3/4 up and down, and 3 degrees right thrust on the engine. With the short tail moments you don't need much elev. Hope this helps
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Thanks for the info. It's almost done and weighs 11 lbs without the prop and battery. I'll assemble it tomorrow and see where the c.g. is. I mounted the tank at 3" centered( around 25% ) so it won't change the balance , and mounted the throttle servo on the back of the firewall. I still have to apply graphics and may install flying wires made from plastic lace. I'll post a picture tomorrow. Baldeagle, you're R-2 looks awesome !!
Thanks,
Dale
Thanks,
Dale
#66
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Dale thanks for the comment. I can't take credit for building it , I bought it from one of the guys I fly with. I am in the middle of building two 79 in Zeros. and didn't want to take the time to build one. Maybe this winter I would like to build one about your size, something arround a YS120 motor. I flew my GeeBee again this morning, and moving the LG forward sure helped.
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Updated R-2 Picture
Here's where it is now. Just needs graphics, remote glow ( probably will make an on board glow ) remote fueler and the c,g, corrected. Right now it's at 3 1/2" , it needs to be at 2 3/8" .
I didn't like the side to side motion allowed by 5/32 gear, so I made the lower flying wires from 4-40 rods and attached them to the gear legs from the wing and from the center of the belly pan. Will post one more picture when complete, then it's off to the field. Thanks for the input so far. Please excuse the messy shop.
Dale
I didn't like the side to side motion allowed by 5/32 gear, so I made the lower flying wires from 4-40 rods and attached them to the gear legs from the wing and from the center of the belly pan. Will post one more picture when complete, then it's off to the field. Thanks for the input so far. Please excuse the messy shop.
Dale
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Gee Bee
Guess what Guys they also made a G model I have one that is scratch built from the kit and I also have the kit just waiting to be built. As soon as I get a couple more of these projects that I have started then look out.
#69
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Dale nice looking GeeBee. It ap[pears we will be evacuating tomorrow.. This picture was taken yesterday out my front door . fire is app 8 miles away. I will be offline for a few days.
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Gee Bees ?
Originally posted by RC_Eflyer
I've got some trivia for you all, what color is the pinstriping on the origonal R1/R2 racers (either one)
--Paul
I've got some trivia for you all, what color is the pinstriping on the origonal R1/R2 racers (either one)
--Paul
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Originally posted by RC_Eflyer
I have a book somewhere in my collection that shows some drawings of the flaps, it seems like they are split flaps that are double flapped (they are articulated so it creates a difference in the camber of the wing.
I'll look around for that book showing the flaps though.
--Paul
[email protected]
I have a book somewhere in my collection that shows some drawings of the flaps, it seems like they are split flaps that are double flapped (they are articulated so it creates a difference in the camber of the wing.
I'll look around for that book showing the flaps though.
--Paul
[email protected]
http://www.nwhobbytechnologies.com/g...ulti_views.htm
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Originally posted by mec
we do not exactly know what happened by now.
in the meantime it was the third "first flight", always with the same result.
the take off was ok, but when the plane gained speed it was not possible to control it with the elevators. it was a steady up and down, suddenly the geebee started with a roll and it seemed the geebee liked most of all a knife edge flight.
a controlled landing was impossible.
the second flight took place with a modified CG, the third with a s-shaped airfoil (i think the 1:1 geebee had also s-shape, hope its the correct term).
maybe the desaster is caused by the position of the stabs lying in the shade of the wings and getting turbulences?
we do not believe in an uncorrect CG.
unfortunately i do not know the exact technical dates, cause as i mentioned above its the plane of a friend of mine.
mec
we do not exactly know what happened by now.
in the meantime it was the third "first flight", always with the same result.
the take off was ok, but when the plane gained speed it was not possible to control it with the elevators. it was a steady up and down, suddenly the geebee started with a roll and it seemed the geebee liked most of all a knife edge flight.
a controlled landing was impossible.
the second flight took place with a modified CG, the third with a s-shaped airfoil (i think the 1:1 geebee had also s-shape, hope its the correct term).
maybe the desaster is caused by the position of the stabs lying in the shade of the wings and getting turbulences?
we do not believe in an uncorrect CG.
unfortunately i do not know the exact technical dates, cause as i mentioned above its the plane of a friend of mine.
mec
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I flew my Gee Bee Z with flaperons to see if it was worth doing. (some of my customers had asked.) I had no control problems at all. I also found that it was not worth the bother....Gee Bees fly slowly enough to make good landings without flaps. The R1/R2 hybrid flown by Cecil Allen had split flaps.
Adrian
Adrian
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Adrian, Correct me if I'm wrong, because I'm lazy and I don't feel like digging through my boxes to find my Hobby Hangar GeeBee kit (which is essentially yours, no?) or my rolled A. Page plans, but I'd swear that yours have strip ailerons, right? If so, they wouldn't have a problem using flaperons. I was making reference to the guy in a post above who showed a badly damaged scratch-built model, which I believe was built scale. A scale GeeBee would have barn-door type ailerons. Take it from me, a GeeBee with the barn-door ailerons does NOT like flaperon configuration. In fact, I have never seen a plane with them that didn't want to fall right out of the sky as soon as power was reduced, even something tame like a GeeBee Y or a Spacewalker. The GeeBee Y on our website was almost lost two weeks ago to a flaperon setup. I discovered this quite by accident a few years ago when I set up my new Spacewalker with them, and took it up five hundred feet and tried to slow it down to see how it stalled. It simply dumped, and I barely recovered it (can you say "weed whacker?") from that. Although it's not not likely the culprit in that guy's crashes, I thought it couldn't hurt to ask him, since he couldn't seem to find a clue up to now.