nickbee

My Feedback: (7)

I like both the squiggles and the uniform circles. I know the swuiggles are are scale so we'll see what I go with...

Thanks for the wash-out desc abu,,, basically wash-out = good...

abufletcher

Be the first at your field to be wild and break from tradition: Do the squiggles! BTW, from the research I've seen Sopwith was the ONLY company to use the circular pattern on WWI aircraft. And the circle pattern was VERY small such that on a 1/4 scale model I'd guess that we're talking circles about 1/8" in diameter -- as on Mick Reeve's stunning (and large) model of the 1 1/2 Strutter.

(** Thanks for this photo, Reg!)

abufletcher

BTW, I'm hoping against hope that this was NOT done on the Snipe!

abufletcher

My wheels are crude indeed compared to Mick's on his Strutter! I think the whole key to competition scale modeling (even if you never plan to complete) is to actually CARE about a whole different level of detail. Most modelers (including myself) just sort of go "scale blind" at a certain threshold.

Examples of things at this level might be the actual appearance of hinges, axel caps, cowl separations, etc. Yet these are the very details that make us mere mortals respond with "wow!" even though we don't really know what we're responding to.

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

I like Mick Reeves stuff but haven't figured out how to convert his $ to our $ not to mention shipping.

nickbee

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Here's a build question for you guys. What glue did you use for the wing / tail carbon to wood joints? I've used CA in the past with other SR models, but I would imagine 30 min epoxy would be stronger? But I guess it would also be heavier / messy-er / take longer? Let me know what you guys used. I don’t mind the “take longer” part as I’m not in a rush to build this model.

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

I used ca thruout mine.



Bud

abufletcher

I'm not really talking about kit qualities. The kind of detailing I'm talking about isn't contained in any kit on earth -- it's about master builders. Mick is a master builder who, BTW, also happens to sell pretty good kits. Sure, kits like the Proctor Albatros, Mick Reeve's Camel, or GTM's Hanriot, go a lot further than most in terms of telling the builder how to get exact scale results, but the raw materials aren't typically "magically better." The wheels that come with the Mick Reeve's Camel aren't the scale masterpieces on his Strutter.

Anyway, this is getting a little off topic for this SR Eindecker thread. There are different sorts of great kits. From everything I've read the SR Eindecker IS a great kit. It provides loads of building fun -- without getting too serious.

feep

Cam, your work looks good but I agree with Don about the swirls being too far apart. I would apply more in between the others. Practice on the firewall before you attempt it on more readily seen parts. Lightly sanding with 400 grit wetordry will" erase the slate ".
AS to the reason they did it well it's funny you should ask because I was thinking about it when I was taking the pics from my last Post. It occured to me that they probably did it originally to elliminate the glare off the front deck and cowl. They probably continued the effect to all the aluminum to make it match. I think later as the aircraft enter service,they realized that it also made the plane less conspicuous. I know there were some attempts at camoflage with the Eindecker. They actually covered one or two with clear stuff (cellon?) in an attemt to make it stealthy!
Nickbee, the washout is important and easy to incorporate. SR has it in their instructions and I belive it helps make the aricraft docile. I can't remember actually having mine stall and I fly SLOW.
AS far as what glues to use. Well I used mostly CA but after 2 seasons and my share of mishaps, I have found a few places I would use different adhesives and strengthen. The ply pieces for the landing gear: Toss the front and use a hard wood piece and pin it throught the lower longeron or add a strip up the inside of the fuselage to keep it from braking loose if you land hard. Use epoxy on these parts. I realize that this is a 1/4 scale aircraft and a crash is pretty distructive but there are those circumstances that are minor and yet cause a lot of grief. One area I found that could use some beefing up was the holes in the ribs were they attach to the carbon fiber spars. A dead stick crash ended with an impact on the wing tip and I found that the aileron impacted first and the whole trailing edge was affected. All the ribs were torn away from the spar but the brakes were not clean because they were lateral and because the CA is absorbed around the joint. IT made repairing the wing very difficult. After a couple of rebuilds, I bought a new wing kit and I used 1 inch square pieces of coverite on both sides of the holes before I slid them on the spar.

feep

Cam, here are a couple of pics of my Eindecker. The first shows the metal areas pretty well. I have shots of the E111 in London and I think its's a fair representation. The second shot is on of my best flying shots. You can just see the pilot's scarf and the sky is incredible!

camdyson

Hi guys,

Re squiggles, I agree they're bigger than scale - case of bad craftsman letting his tools dictate the work (i.e. steel wool wouldn't make finer lines...) Played around with the cowl tonight and got a bit finer - might buff and re-do the side cheeks to match. as for the pattern, whilst it looks quite contrived and spaced, one of my (period) photos was VERY much the same, rather than the more "galvanised" effect Don refers to and Feep has captured well. Will have to see how the final effect looks.

As for glues, I'd use cyano for the balsa-spar joints as epoxy would be overkill, however I find it unreliable on ply even if pre-sanded. Where ply's involved, I use epoxy if high-stress area, otherwise aliphatic resin is excellent, and sands well too.

Next step is to stain the fuselage and wing strustures before applying solartex, then can finish the forward metal skinning.

Cheers,

Cam

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

Here's the cowl on a replica EIII that was at one time in the museum of the air in California and flown by Frank Tallman for the book "Flying the old planes" Don't know whatever happened to it.

abufletcher

Wow, maybe this is the replica that started it all!!! Note that is also has the cut-out on the side cowl to accomodate the wing -- like virtually all EIII models on the market -- instead of the scale V cut-out in the wing to accommodate the cowl.

feep

I think you are probably right about the those mistakes being copied. I have also done it. Sometimes you just cannot find the detail you are looking for and you resort to a replica because it has good crisp color shots or shows a detail you cannot find. My 1/24 scale kit of the E111 has the cut out in the cowl because I used the wrong source for the detail. I didn't find out about the mistake until it was reviewed in Windsock Magazine. That Replica in " Flying the Old Planes" was done pretty well but there were some obvious discrepenciesn such as the LeRhone and the exposed wire wheels it had. My reference for the cowl pattern comes from the actual photos from WW1. Here's two pics of 210/16 taken after it was captured. All that said, These are sport scale aircraft and so Cam what ever pattern YOU are happy with is the one you should use. Once it's in the air it will be irrelevant.for the most part.

abufletcher

And to destroy yet another modeling myth, note the PINK tires!

nickbee

My Feedback: (7)

Cam. what are you going to use to paint the white sections and to seal the solarex?

camdyson

Probably auto acrylic lacquer with plasticiser (stops cracking) - I've got plenty and am used to spraying it, but still deciding on the clear. I've used polyurethane flat varnish (spray cans from the hardware store) in the past without problems - the auto acrylic lacquer clear is nice but very $$$ here.

Just doing a bit of final work on the open structures before staining - plenty of stain lying about the place for stain, to show through the Solartex a bit. What I'm REALLY looking forward to is doing the pilot - if it comes out half as good as on the Aces of Iron site I'll be happy!

Cheers,

Cam

abufletcher

A word of warning on the staining: Test for the effect first. I experimented with staining the balsa of my EIII's frame (a dark brown) but it looked awful through the yellowish Antique Solartex. It looked mostly gray. And of course it showed up the fat, non-scale width "lumber." In the end, it's probably better to leave the wood unstained and figure out some ways to "highlight" (or fake) scale structure on the surface (for example with light chalk rubbings before clear finishing). I dirtied up the surface of my sides with a thin blackish-brown wash.

Anyway, test first to see if you like what you see.

nickbee

My Feedback: (7)

Here’s another question for you guys that have built and flown this plane already. I picked up a back issue of Model Airplane News to read about the E1. Their flight photo shows the rudder appears to be lifting up. Was this maybe from the control lines not being taunt enough? Is anyone else running into this?

Thanks!

skylarkmk1

nickbee,

Go back to post #2 and click on the link to Airfield Models. There you will find an article about the SRB Eindecker construction and flying. Towards the end of the Building Section, he talks about the Emmpanage and specifically the Rudder rising and also mentions the M.A.N. article. Hope this will help.

nickbee

My Feedback: (7)

Yup I saw his blurb on the airfield models site. But it does not mention a fix or if its really a problem. Just wondering what you guys are experiencing.

Thanks!

feep

Nickbee, There is really no way the rudder can come out of its post without loosing both sides of the pull/pull lines. If you loose one side you won't have any rudder control as it is.In fact the rudder will go over to one side and you won't be able to get it back. I have been flying mine with the rudder and elevator held on by the pull/pull lines for two seasons and no problems. I have lifted the plane up by the rudder to bring it back to the pit area and it moves up only a fraction of an inch. I don't think it's an issue.

skylarkmk1

feep,

Is the rudder post hollow? I don't have the kit so I don't know. If the post is long enough to reach within 1/2" to 3/4' of the bottom of the fuse, can a screw (recessed of course) be inserted into the bottom of the rudder post to keep it from rising?

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

The tube that accepts the rudder post is hollow but if you insert a screw it will go through the rudder post and lock it so it won't turn. Not to worry...the design is safe.

nickbee

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks for the feedback guys.. I'm expecting my kit any day now. Can't wait to get started!