RC Scale Aircraft Discuss rc scale aircraft here (for giant scale see category above)

Best scale photo!

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Old 01-19-2013, 10:52 AM
  #4901
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Jaybird - That's a good point about the radial engines. It would be ultimate scale representation to have those spinning.

Fletch - Thank you very much. I think this thread is developing into something special where we can all help each other with scale modeling ideas and photography techniques.

Norm - You have a nice looking Corsair there, but I can immediately tell it's model and not a full-size version. You could take a shot of it with the panning techniques I was describing and create a more believable illusion of a full size plane. In the photo you have presented the grass, engine, and corn all say model. The photos are nice, but the intent of this thread is to help modelers and photographers do a better job with scale realism.

Crash - Thank you. I'm looking forward to where this thread is headed in 2013.

Chasman - Thanks much!
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:37 PM
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Mark...thats a stunner!......full size or not !......agree with your views...I have a middle of the road Nikon 5100 with Nikon 70-300 4.5 and for model work try to shoot on shutter priority aiming for apertures around 9 and shutter speed sbout 1/250..... Higher for jets......Some of the shutter speeds quoted earlier seem to be vey high and may be more appproriate for jets only...... I think there is still some debate on whether to turn image stabilisation on and off but whatever works for you in my opinion.......panning is a skill that if mastered produces great results.

A wise old friend told me that the secret to great shots was ...

1) Light

2) Light !

3) the photographers own 'eye' i.e. for composition etc

4) the camera

..in todays age I would add understanding some basic software capability is a HUGE advantage and may even be more important than the camera in some situations.

Dino

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Old 01-19-2013, 12:41 PM
  #4903
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Default RE: Best scale photo!

MARK, that is an absolutely stunning picture.
Of all the flying shots I've seen in RCU, that one takes the gold medal.
Not just because it a killer shot of a model in flight... but because you really get the feeling you're standing on the ground as a full sized Waco does a low pass... which fit's the thread theme 100%.
Wicked mate.
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Old 01-19-2013, 01:35 PM
  #4904
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Default RE: Best scale photo!

Here's a couple of a 1/3 scale Sopwith Camel. The close up showing the spinny rotary is from that Hutch bloke again.

Ian.
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: David Bathe

MARK, that is an absolutely stunning picture.
Of all the flying shots I've seen in RCU, that one takes the gold medal.
Not just because it a killer shot of a model in flight... but because you really get the feeling you're standing on the ground as a full sized Waco does a low pass... which fit's the thread theme 100%.
Wicked mate.

Unfortunately, if you read the line just above the photo you'll see it IS a FULL size plane which is why it looks so real. It's also a Super Stearman and not a WACO.

So in fact it doesn't fit the thread because it's not a model, but it is stunning...actually it almost doesn't look real with the odd lighting effects on the bottom and the smoke going around the tailwheel.

No pictures to add to so I'll be quiet.

Jaybird.
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:20 PM
  #4906
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mark fadely

Hi Guys,

.............As you learn to skillfully pan you will notice the backgrounds become very pleasing as well. They are blurred along the path of flight. Showing the motion in this way more effectively relates the dynamics of flight to the viewer. That's why professional racecar photographers generally use panning for all of their best shots. The plane does not have to be against a terrain background for good panning effect either. Even clouds will take on a new and unusual appearance with slow shutter dragging.
Hi Mark,

Thanks for the tips. I've tried giving a good depth of field with panning but have never been very succesful (either motor racing, full size and model a/c). I've found the weight of a body with a big lens hard to control (even with a Manfrotto stick). Do you have any tricks or techniques that would help in developing a good 'panning' method?

Cheers,

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Old 01-19-2013, 08:45 PM
  #4907
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Default RE: Best scale photo!

My EIII. Flawed in many ways but still fun. This is a good example of trying one's best to get a scale photo of a far-from-perfect model. Believe me, I can see every one of its flaws (probably more than most viewers can). But I've also tried my best to hide some of the most obvious flaws.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:10 AM
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That second picture of the Cameleven looks like it could be somewhere at the river Somme! That's a whole other universe of scale photo realism: Does the background show some signs of the period, the land this airplane was commonly flown and so on. Excellent shot! WW1 biplane in the Arizona desert: no good... Worn, weathered WW2 fighter with modern airport buildings in the back no good. Cause the replicas or restored ones are all shiny!
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:02 AM
  #4909
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Spuetz
That second picture of the Camel even looks like it could be somewhere at the river Somme!
That's what I mentioned earlier about those lucky UK and European scale WWI guys, who get to fly in authentic landscapes! Most of the rest of us don't have that much control over such things.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:51 AM
  #4910
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Hi forum,

some of my 2012 shots

3W Bearcat with Moki




Lavochkin LA-7 with 250 Moki



3W Bearcat [X(]



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Old 01-20-2013, 03:54 AM
  #4911
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The beautiful big Lockheed T-33









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Old 01-20-2013, 03:59 AM
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Lavochkin LA-7 (quarterscale, 250 Moki)





dawn patrol with DR.I







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Old 01-20-2013, 06:47 AM
  #4913
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mark fadely

Quote:
ORIGINAL: ROGER RUSSELL

Since we are on the topic of photography and equipment, and IF it is not illegal to talk about here and NOT to far off the thread topic.

What are some of the equipment used?

What are your shooting aperture and speeds that you LIKE to shoot at and WHY?

I'll start.

I only have a Canon Rebel (Had in film days and when I shot sports for the local newspaper a EOS 1 and two EOS 620 bodies) with 100-300 f5.6, 28-55, 35-105.

When conditions permit I like shooting at a aperture priorty of f7-f9 with the long lense as that gives me a little bit more depth of field on focusing for the high speed passes, etc...........I do like to shut it down to 5.6 or so for that blurred background. Whatever ISO can get me to that is what I shoot at.

I like the f9 setting as that also gives me a decent shutter speed to blur the prop so the plane does not look like it is just sitting in mid air.

I am a ameture photographer, and would love to hear from all of you experts!

I also do very little optimizing of my jpeg pictures-reasons are I am old school and believe what I take is what I get, and I do not have a very good software package-some cases just dont have or take the time to mess with enhancing my photographs

Comments?

If this is out of line for this thread please let me know and I will take it down!

Hi Guys,

For the past couple of years I have shooting all prop planes at a shutter speed of 1/200th or less. I really like the see a full disk of prop blur if possible. This means getting down to shutter numbers as low as 1/50th for full scale, and 1/125th for RC. I always use manual mode and it is almost a necessity to use a lens with image stabilization when shooting at those low shutter speeds. The downside to shooting this way is your keeper rate will go down dramatically because it requires near perfect panning technique to capture a crisp, sharp shot. The upside is that you can shoot at very small apertures, which will really benefit less expensive lenses and camera bodies. Lower shutter speed means lower ISO and apertures in the f9-16 range. For example, I shoot with a 1D MKIV and a 300 2.8 IS($8,000 for the combo) most often, but using this technique you can produce the same quality shots with a 1D MKIIn and a 300 f4 IS lens($1,500 lens+camera). So if a photographer has $1,500 available for gear he/she can produce action aircraft shots that are as good as any in the world. 300mm is good for shooting our models, and for panning work it becomes more difficult as the focal length increases. As you learn to skillfully pan you will notice the backgrounds become very pleasing as well. They are blurred along the path of flight. Showing the motion in this way more effectively relates the dynamics of flight to the viewer. That's why professional racecar photographers generally use panning for all of their best shots. The plane does not have to be against a terrain background for good panning effect either. Even clouds will take on a new and unusual appearance with slow shutter dragging.

Here's an example of a full scale plane shot at 1/50th shutter speed. 300mm, f10, iso50. A lot of lesser expensive lenses are going to be sharp and have nice image quality when shot at f10.



Mark you did in fact show us a perfect example of what the RC should look like by using as you told us "Here's an example of a full scale plane shot at 1/50th shutter speed. 300mm, f10, iso50. A lot of lesser expensive lenses are going to be sharp and have nice image quality when shot at f10. "

Still an awsome shot, just need to see one that is an rc that matches!
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:24 AM
  #4914
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Hi All,

That is a great shot Mark, but I'm not a fan of completely blurred out props - I like to see a blurred propeller. If I'm shooting full size stuff then I obviously slow the shutter speed to around 1/320 or 1/400sec depending what sort of aircraft I'm taking pictures of - for an example early Mk Spitfires with Merlin engines would be 1/320, but a later Mk Spit with a Griffon would be 1/400. This is simply because of the engine rev range the particular engine has.

Back to the pictures - I had to go a long way back to find this one - I'm sure Fletch might appreciate it




And a few more from the history books - pictures taken quite a few years ago so apologies if the quality isn't that good.









Well, I think that's scraped the bottom of the barrel!

TTFN,
Neil
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:30 AM
  #4915
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One man's bottom of the barrel is another man's top of the heap!
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:37 AM
  #4916
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: DinoR

Mark...thats a stunner!......full size or not !......agree with your views...I have a middle of the road Nikon 5100 with Nikon 70-300 4.5 and for model work try to shoot on shutter priority aiming for apertures around 9 and shutter speed sbout 1/250..... Higher for jets......Some of the shutter speeds quoted earlier seem to be vey high and may be more appproriate for jets only...... I think there is still some debate on whether to turn image stabilisation on and off but whatever works for you in my opinion.......panning is a skill that if mastered produces great results.

A wise old friend told me that the secret to great shots was ...

1) Light

2) Light !

3) the photographers own 'eye' i.e. for composition etc

4) the camera

..in todays age I would add understanding some basic software capability is a HUGE advantage and may even be more important than the camera in some situations.

Dino

Hi Dino,

Thanks, and I agree with you on shutter speeds for props being 250 or less. Sometimes if you shoot at 1/500th or higher you can get stationary props if the pilots happens to throttle back at anytime.

Also, the debate about image stabilization revolves around higher shutter speeds in the +1/640 range. I have tried my IS lenses with and without the IS feature turned on and I can say that once you are below 1/500th the IS makes a big difference while tracking moving objects. It doesn't cure poor panning technique, but it helps to tune out minute movements helping sharpen up shots at low shutter speeds. Hypothetically if you are panning with perfect technique then the plane will not move within the viewfinder. This would be no different than shooting a stationary object and if you are shooting something stationary with a 300mm lens at 1/50th shutter speed then IS is going to really help.

You are right about the software too. Knowing how to work and enhance the digital files is an art within itself and people who are skilled can make a crappy photo into a stunner.

Thanks for the information. It's great to hear so many people sharing their ideas in this thread.

Mark

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Old 01-20-2013, 07:43 AM
  #4917
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that Red Arrows shot! OH MY GOD!!! That must be one of the most moving shots Ihave seen! Outstanding!
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:55 AM
  #4918
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E
Quote:
ORIGINAL: Jaybird


Unfortunately, if you read the line just above the photo you'll see it IS a FULL size plane

Jaybird.
Bugger!

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Old 01-20-2013, 09:48 AM
  #4919
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: David Bathe

MARK, that is an absolutely stunning picture.
Of all the flying shots I've seen in RCU, that one takes the gold medal.
Not just because it a killer shot of a model in flight... but because you really get the feeling you're standing on the ground as a full sized Waco does a low pass... which fit's the thread theme 100%.
Wicked mate.
Hi David,

Yes, it is full scale. The same ideas relate to model photos, but this is one of my favorite shots and I wanted to include it to discuss the photography aspects of this thread.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:20 AM
  #4920
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Idigbo

Here's a couple of a 1/3 scale Sopwith Camel. The close up showing the spinny rotary is from that Hutch bloke again.

Ian.
Wow, first time I think I've seen a spinning motor photographed in a model. Of course it would come from Neil's stuff. That second shot is about as realistic to full scale as you can get too. The close-up shots of models are great, but I believe it is even more captivating when a nice environmental scene is included, especially when the terrain is so fitting with the genre of aircraft.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:29 AM
  #4921
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: John M G


Quote:
ORIGINAL: mark fadely

Hi Guys,

.............As you learn to skillfully pan you will notice the backgrounds become very pleasing as well. They are blurred along the path of flight. Showing the motion in this way more effectively relates the dynamics of flight to the viewer. That's why professional racecar photographers generally use panning for all of their best shots. The plane does not have to be against a terrain background for good panning effect either. Even clouds will take on a new and unusual appearance with slow shutter dragging.
Hi Mark,

Thanks for the tips. I've tried giving a good depth of field with panning but have never been very succesful (either motor racing, full size and model a/c). I've found the weight of a body with a big lens hard to control (even with a Manfrotto stick). Do you have any tricks or techniques that would help in developing a good 'panning' method?

Cheers,

Hi John,

I agree that panning is difficult with big heavy lenses. When shooting really low shutter speeds less than 1/200th I have found it helps to breath out and hold your breath while letting a burst of shots fire off. I try to frame the plane and then relax and keep the focus point locked onto a certain point during the burst of shots. It is difficult and sometimes there is only 1 sharp shot within three or four attempts. That's when it helps to have a cooperative pilot that will continue make the right passes for you. If you only have one shot at it I would not be comfortable shooting at less than 1/200th with a 300mm lens. Shorter lenses will be more forgiving. If you have a zoom then maybe you can get the pilot to fly closer and try using 150 - 200mm range which will up your keeper rate.

I've never had good luck with a monopod.

Mark
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:31 AM
  #4922
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: abufletcher

My EIII. Flawed in many ways but still fun. This is a good example of trying one's best to get a scale photo of a far-from-perfect model. Believe me, I can see every one of its flaws (probably more than most viewers can). But I've also tried my best to hide some of the most obvious flaws.
Nice Fletch - I would say that second shot is one of the most scale looking representations in this threat. All those flying wires, turnbuckles and even the pilot are so scale looking.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:36 AM
  #4923
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: strega7



You've got some nice scale shots in your posts. This is my favorite and gets my vote as most realistic. Nice work.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:40 AM
  #4924
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasrb


Quote:
ORIGINAL: mark fadely

Quote:
ORIGINAL: ROGER RUSSELL

Since we are on the topic of photography and equipment, and IF it is not illegal to talk about here and NOT to far off the thread topic.

What are some of the equipment used?

What are your shooting aperture and speeds that you LIKE to shoot at and WHY?

I'll start.

I only have a Canon Rebel (Had in film days and when I shot sports for the local newspaper a EOS 1 and two EOS 620 bodies) with 100-300 f5.6, 28-55, 35-105.

When conditions permit I like shooting at a aperture priorty of f7-f9 with the long lense as that gives me a little bit more depth of field on focusing for the high speed passes, etc...........I do like to shut it down to 5.6 or so for that blurred background. Whatever ISO can get me to that is what I shoot at.

I like the f9 setting as that also gives me a decent shutter speed to blur the prop so the plane does not look like it is just sitting in mid air.

I am a ameture photographer, and would love to hear from all of you experts!

I also do very little optimizing of my jpeg pictures-reasons are I am old school and believe what I take is what I get, and I do not have a very good software package-some cases just dont have or take the time to mess with enhancing my photographs

Comments?

If this is out of line for this thread please let me know and I will take it down!

Hi Guys,

For the past couple of years I have shooting all prop planes at a shutter speed of 1/200th or less. I really like the see a full disk of prop blur if possible. This means getting down to shutter numbers as low as 1/50th for full scale, and 1/125th for RC. I always use manual mode and it is almost a necessity to use a lens with image stabilization when shooting at those low shutter speeds. The downside to shooting this way is your keeper rate will go down dramatically because it requires near perfect panning technique to capture a crisp, sharp shot. The upside is that you can shoot at very small apertures, which will really benefit less expensive lenses and camera bodies. Lower shutter speed means lower ISO and apertures in the f9-16 range. For example, I shoot with a 1D MKIV and a 300 2.8 IS($8,000 for the combo) most often, but using this technique you can produce the same quality shots with a 1D MKIIn and a 300 f4 IS lens($1,500 lens+camera). So if a photographer has $1,500 available for gear he/she can produce action aircraft shots that are as good as any in the world. 300mm is good for shooting our models, and for panning work it becomes more difficult as the focal length increases. As you learn to skillfully pan you will notice the backgrounds become very pleasing as well. They are blurred along the path of flight. Showing the motion in this way more effectively relates the dynamics of flight to the viewer. That's why professional racecar photographers generally use panning for all of their best shots. The plane does not have to be against a terrain background for good panning effect either. Even clouds will take on a new and unusual appearance with slow shutter dragging.

Here's an example of a full scale plane shot at 1/50th shutter speed. 300mm, f10, iso50. A lot of lesser expensive lenses are going to be sharp and have nice image quality when shot at f10.

Mark you did in fact show us a perfect example of what the RC should look like by using as you told us ''Here's an example of a full scale plane shot at 1/50th shutter speed. 300mm, f10, iso50. A lot of lesser expensive lenses are going to be sharp and have nice image quality when shot at f10. ''

Still an awsome shot, just need to see one that is an rc that matches!
Thanks Chasman, I'm going to dig through my files to get some RC examples of various elements of our discussion. I'm really enjoying how this more in-depth exchange is going.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:49 AM
  #4925
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I agree with you Mark - As I said earlier I think this thread can evolve into something a lot bigger - as if it isn't big enough now! I've enjoyed the last few 'pages' very much - I hope others have, too. It is very interesting to read and see all the different ideas and what we like and don't like so much. I think it's all very enlightening. I just wish we could all adjourn to a nice pub and discuss this is thread over a few beers[8D]

TTFN,
Neil
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