BobH

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Randy thanks for that bit of information. I have seen plenty of jets with hopper tanks and a few heli's. They all seem to work just fine. Since my hopper tank is so tall I don't know if a clunk would work or not? My fuel pickup is at the very bottom of the tank. My thinking is that the Main tank will be full nearly all the time so any inverted flight will pull fuel from there. Those will be mostly rolls and loops any way.. no 3D stuff in the Camel! LOL

puplover

Hi Bob; Inverted would'nt the landing wires now become flying wires? If the camel was stressed as the Pup was the flying wires were double,landingwires were single, I would think inverted flight would be rather risky for more than a few seconds. JMO..... Jack

BobH

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Jack yep the Camel is rigged the same as the Pup and many WWI planes.. that is having 2 flying wires and a single landing wirel. I'm guessing that upright flight was done nearly all the time. I haven't read any accounts of inverted flight per se in WWI planes.

cruisermoi

Hi

Ihave just started to build the MR Camel, I am puzzled as to the positioning of former which I belive to be the cockpit instrumentation There are a number of descrepencies on the plan eg F4 on the wood seems to be F6a on the plan, The former with the three holes (and the cutout for the guns) in it I guess is the cockpit instrumentation which again has a different number as to what is shown on the plan and again there is another former which has the gun cutouts but no holes you will all realise I am new to this type of detailed plan, can anyone advise where the formers are situated. Hope you guys will take pitted on a newboy !!!!!

BobH

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Let me check the plans when I get home and I'll try to answer you. Yes there are discrepencies on the plans and are at times confusing..

cruisermoi

Thanks for your reply Bob. After examining the plan again and the photographs on this web site I have glued the formers in the wrong position. I will wait and get your advice before taking them off and replacing them

Regards

Alan

BobH

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Alan let me know if this photo helps explain the position of things.

BobH

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Alan here's link to another camel build. It's a 1/3 scale and it's in Dutch but the pictures might help you later on.

http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/phpBB2/...r=asc&&start=0

cruisermoi

Bob ,Thanks for the photo

You show a former with the two Gun cutouts, I have two formers with gun cut-outs. One of these formers has three holes which i guess are for the instruments, the other former is the same but a lot shallower. Your photo shows this shallower former. The "thin" former (F6a) in your photo seems to glued to the top formers F7!! but according to my plan should be above F6.

I would give you numbers but believe it gets very confusing as they do not compare with the plan. I would assume that the former with the three holes gets glued just in front of the pilot because my plan shows it located as the first former after the fire wall, which to me seems to deep inboard for a pilot to see. ( does this make sense)

Valium here I come !!!!!!!

BobH

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Alan you are correct in that the former with 3 holes is the instrument panel. The shallower former goes in front of that and they are both joined. I screwed my instrument panel to the shallower former in case I wanted to remove it later on. The instrument panel sits a little foward up against the second top former as shown in my photograph. Remember you need room for the machine guns and their rear mount.

Another picture.... this shows the instrument panel and Short panel connected (short panel in front).. The gun bar that I made out of styrene plastic, heated and bent to the correct shape, AND.. the rear cockpit former. This is a thin former that the fuse sheeting attaches to..

cruisermoi

Were getting there Bob. The short former which gets screwed to the larger would cover the half of the diamenter of the instruments holes !! presumably to support the Dials Does the thin former go above F6 or F7.
I am sorry if these questions are daft but the plan is low down on info.
Alan

BobH

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I don't have access to the plans right now so I don't remember where F6 or F7 is but.. my instruments are flush with the rear of the Instrument panel so attaching it to the shorter former poses no problems. I made my own instrument bezels etc so everything fits.

Go over to RCScaleBuilder.com and register (only takes a minute) then you can look under "forums" and then "Mick Reeves". I'm building my Camel over there. There are other Mick Reeves builds also.

BobH

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I haven't done too much on the Camel lately. I've been busy with "important" stuff lol. But I did manage to construct the elevator. As you can see by the picture it's a little different from your traditional construction method.
The MR kit uses wire for the elevator that you must bend to the shape. It's bound and soldered togather. Not the easiest material to work with trying to get the bends smooth without kinks!.. I heated the wire to make it softer and that helped. The curves aren't perfect but lacking a large enough form to bend them around I think they look ok.
An alternative would be to make a ply former and laminate the shape. I think that would work equally well.

jtisch

BobH,
Do you know the stock# or item number for the fake leather you bought? It looks very good. I found G-Street fabrics web-site but they don't have online ordering. Perhaps if I knew what to order I could send them an e-mail. I've been to just about every fabric store in my area and everything is either too thick, too textured, or not shiny(more like suede). Thanks

J

BobH

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J I'm sorry I don't have a stock number. A friend and I bought it togather and split the price. He probably didn't even keep the receipt and the fabric has no numbers on it. It's thin though that much I know. Maybe you could call them and ask? The color is kind of a burgandy.

cruisermoi

HI J

We across the pond have a material with a market name of "Fablon" this is a self adhesive plastic which comes in huge variety of colours, designs etc. It is used for covering flat areas that require "brightening up" You can buy this stuff in rolls. Once you took of the backing sheet it stuck like hell.! They did a leather finish in Burgandy which was very realistic. I guess you would get this material in a store such as Woolworths.

regards

Alan

jtisch

Sorry for the delay in answering, I've been having problems with my ISP. Thanks for the information!

tyr2473

I've just bought this kit. I wonder if a Zenoah 20 or 26 would suit this model?

BobH

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The G-20 might be ok. You will need nose weight most likely.. I put my Camel aside for a lil while and I need to get back on it. I have mixed feelings about Gas in WWI planes. I don't think the sound is all that good.. but thats just me.

Teus

Make your nose weight useful

abufletcher

Teus, that is TOO cool!

vertical grimmace

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Ok, where do you get that starter from? That would be nice to have if it worked well.

Teus

Overhere: [link=http://www.fema-modelltechnik.de/Web_engl/uebersicht_engl.html]Fema-Modelltechnik[/link]

A friend of my just ordered the compact unit for the Zenoah 38 [8D] He did that by Toni Clark who also have the Fema goodies in his program. Take also a good look at the prop balancing unit, that's a perfect balancing tool that belongs in every workshop.

Teus

mroyer

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I am looking for a fiberglass cowl for a 1/4 scale sopwith camel. Are there any sources other than "buyAero"?