kvlasblom

And finally added the servos.
These are for the elevators and rudder. (And also the tailwheel).

clifford

Hi Kim,
That"s a great job your doing there.....and as a prevoiuos poster said, very neat and tidy!....love the tailwheel bracket too...

keep up the good work...

Clifford

kvlasblom

Thanks Clifford!

I am however planning to make a change to the bracket; the ball-link takes a bit to much effort to turn in it's socket to be a good solution.
But I have a plan and have ordered the required parts.
Will post when done.

kvlasblom

My plan has worked!
I took a plastic quick-link, and cut out the plastic pin.
Then I drilled the hole right through.

I removed the soldered ball-link and soldered a ring onto the bracket.
The tailwheel bracket goes through the hole in the quick-link and this is held in place by a wheel stop.

A quick test revealed that the whole thing now operates much smoother.

bla bla

It rather frightening to see plans drawn in 1982 being described as vintage!
Where do that leave me?

kvlasblom

Haha!...
Luckily they're called vintage plans due to the fact that the model is of an aircraft from the 1930's/1940's.
So even if I drew the plans today it'd be a vintage plan.

Hope you feel better now...

kvlasblom

Without a tailplane my Waco's not going anywhere...
The tailplane construction is simple and easy to make, and also very strong.
It exists of a central 2,5mm plank of balsa, with a 5mm leading edge and trailing edge stuck to both sides, and ribs between them.
For the hinges there are pieces of 5mm plywood.

kvlasblom

The elevators are constructed in much the same way.
The centre sheeting is cut to shape.

clifford

Hi Kim,
Still following your thread here with interest, definately agree with your descision to usethe Sig method of top wing attatchment, much tidier!

Cliff

kvlasblom

Hi, good to hear from you. Yes. -have you received your plans yet?

kvlasblom

Well, the elevators are finally done.
They were a lot of work, but the result is worth it.

Before I can start on the wings I need to make some decisions regarding the changes I intend to make to them:-

1. The way in which the wings are held in place (will be made in a similar way to the SIG method)
2. Aileron, flap and landing light servos will be installed in the wings (instead of in the fuselage as per plan)
3. Installation of the landing lights and the mechanism that will enable them to open out

So this all will probably mean that it'll be worth re-drawing the plans of the wings.
And then I shall probably have to purchase the lights for the exact installation planning.
-And think of a method of solving the required electronic system for the lighting...

About the lighting:
I wanbt to use 1 channel, with a three position switch.
Position 1: All lights of
Position 2: Navigation lights activated (flashing)
Position 3: Navigation lights activated (flashing), landing lights folded out and activated

I'm not sure yet how I'm going to acomplish this.

clifford

Hi Kim,
Yes, have recieved the plans, and they are nice and clearly drawn......easy enough build. Unfortunately, we have had a death in the family..[mother-in-law]....so will be a little while until I get things started with the Waco....have to finish of the ME110 and Balsa USA Neiuport 28 first too!!....but the Waco is deffo my next project after things have been cleard up.

I intend to send for the cowl/ spats from Fibreglass Specialities, and also the Great Planes spinner....by doing this...I"m commiting myself, and stopping any mind changes at thelast minute!!

Your Waco"s progressing nicely......keep it up!!


Cliff

kvlasblom

I'm sorry to hear that Cliff!
I wish you and your family strength.

When you get started I'd love to hear from you.

Greetings,
Kim

JoeAverage

Good idea to redraw the wings. As you know the servo bay is in the wrong position so you can properly locate it when redrawing. I do it for every half winged plan or whenever I need to build all together.

It's interesting that the N number on Sid's SRE Plan was actually designated to a Waco Factory Demonstrator Model ARE. The only difference between the ARE, ,HRE, WRE, and SRE was the particular engine that was installed in them. For our modelling purposes these variations mean little and Sid's plan could be referred to as any of the models mentioned but NX20951 serial# 5076 Model ARE, Date of Manufacturing 10-25-39, was sold to Tarrant Flying Services, Billings, MT on 7-3-41 when it was no longer needed by the Waco Factory. It had a Jacobs L-6MB 330 HP engine. It was originally Stinson green with Gold edged Stinson Red Trim. If subsequent to this, this aircraft was fitted with a Pratt and Whitney Wasp Jr. SB3 with 450 HP then it would have become an SRE. SRE's had better cowl ventilation. A physical difference in appearance and models converted to SRE's from previous models had to overcome this cooling deficiency.

kvlasblom

Thanks for the extra info.
Funny to see the plans in someone else's photo!
By the way, as you have the plans too; I haven't made laminated wing tips before, as shown on the plans.
Any tips for that, in advance? (It's going to take some time before I get that far).

Today I went to my nearest model shop.
I now have the required hinges to make the tailplane look scale.
Will have to have a look at that on Monday I think.

Cheers,
Kim

kvlasblom

By the way JoeAverage,

Have you already completed this model, or are you working on it?
If so, how far are you? Would love to see some pics...

kvlasblom

I've started the wheel pants.
There is the option of ordering them ready-made, but I'm going for the balsa option!

JoeAverage

edited my editting

Hello, That's some real craftsmanship you are employing there. It's a priveledge to see a one sixth being built when SIG's is so affordable. I agree with your choice.

I started to build a couple and got distracted. I have the plastic parts from Novak which are good for plastic. I bought a couple sets from Fiberglass Specialties. Their cowls are deeper. I haven't compared to see which if either is better. I made my patterns and fixed the plans as shown. I haven't touched wood yet for it. I will post a photo of how I do laminations. It makes for super light and strong parts that stay true. That being said I still think that when a core sheet is used and built up either side, the assembly is just as tough or tougher.

The wings are sheeted with plywood on the full scale but they are then covered with the same fabric as the rest of the plane. With the amount of sheeting required to do the whole wings of the model it will get heavy. If you sheet the wing then polyester fabric can be applied directly with nitrate dope. It would look nice but heavy. Thin stringers raised off the sheet exterior would add great detail. I had though about doing that much extra. I've added a couple maybe helpful pics. I don't want to flood your thread with my photos. I'll photograph the laminating tools I make.

kvlasblom

I've done some more work on the wheel pants.
Both of them are now fully built up and the right one is sanded.

kvlasblom

Thanks, JoeAverage!
I was thinking of using Oratex, but haven't made the decision yet.
I'm very seriously considering the 0.4mm ply on the wings, but don't understand your suggestion of adding stringers as a detail.
These are not there on the full-scale, are they?

JoeAverage

Wheel Pants look great. I edited my prior post. Sorry, Grammar.

This is a photo of the NC1252W in 1988. It was wrecked but has been repaired. This shows the stringers under the darker pinked tape.

Edit: The side view line drawing shows the stringer/member location

JoeAverage

This is the method I adopted after finding out that making a male and female part to laminte under pressure was too problematic. I use the laminations called for, a slurry of aliphatic well slathered into them and then placed over the form under a final strip of 1/16th styrene. It spreads the pressure a bit but keep the 200 or so #32 rubber bands from cutting into the softened balsa.

Pic1 Shows 5LBS hanging from 1/3 Pitts Vert Stab formed from 6 1/16" laminating strips. The inside strip is 1/16"ply.

Pic2 Part returned to form it was made on.

Pic3 Similar but intact former for a different Pitts.

Pic4 Shows a pattern for the Morgam SRE on top a stab form for a 1/3 scale Pitts S2-A. The vert stab, upper and lower tip formers as well as the egress cut out are shown. A few forms for just one model.

Pic5 This just demonstrates that I like the technique and use it where I can.

Most guys do it on the plan with many secure blocks. To appreciate the strength developed under pressure, it has to be observed.

kvlasblom

Thanks. What a lot of hard work!....
So you'd suggest that I make formers to make them on.
But others manage to just build it on the plans? Okay, thanks for the advice.
I'll construct the rest of the wings first I think and then see how I do it.

JoeAverage

You could use a seperate board aside from your building board so that the blocks forming your tip shape could be affixed firmly enough, screwed or glued, and rather than using the tapered pieces of balsa sheet as shown, make them the constant width of the widest point to be tapered down to the correct shape for left and right tips after completion. That would allow the one former to make both tip bows seperately. The constant width of the gluing strips will make for more control while making the lamination. Using the same form will guarantee uniform tips. The tips for the bottom wing will be easier as they are smaller but the same method would apply. Leave additional length on the strips so that they can be clamped together to create tension beyond where they will be end trimmed and affixed to the wing panel. The forming blocks on the inside of the former should be shaped to the contour of the tip. The tension isn't in stretching the strips around the blocks, you are also pushing the inner most laminating strips in against the outer ones. That's where clamping the laminations together creates the tension/pressure as opposed to the formers doing it all.

I hope that makes sense.

John

kvlasblom

Thanks John.
I understand most of your description.
Only I don't understand your idea of making the strips parallel instead of tapered.
Then I'd have to sand them down afterwards or something, is that what you mean, or something else?
(At the leading edge the tip is wider than at the trailing edge).
I also don't think understand how your system works, forgive me.
You have a plank of wood made to the internal form of the bend. You then have lots of blocks fastened to it extending over the edge.
Does the lamination sit agains them, or between them? Are they there to ensure that the strips sit against each other properly?
How do you apply pressure to the laminated strips?
Sorry that I don't fully understand...