Fabric Covering's
#2
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RE: Fabric Covering's
David, there's three that I have used. Super Coverite is nice, applies well, but I thought it felt sort of "rubbery" and it seemed to sag a bit in the sun. Solartex is my favorite prefinished material, I can't say anything bad about it. Your iron should be on the warmer side when sticking it down and forming it arounde curves, but it looks great, is durable, and stays tight once shrunk, and I've not had any problems with seams coming loose. Some say that it picks up dirt easily. Since the weave is not fully "filled", it is a bit more difficult to clean than the Super Coverite, which is a tad smoother. If desired, you can clearcoat Solartex to diminish this tendency. Solartex also takes paint very well, latex works great over the fabric without priming first (saves some weight), but of course, you need to protect the latex from glow fuel, and to a lesser extent, gasoline. The Solartex colors themselves are fuelproof.
Now, to my favorite, Koverall. Obviously it's more work, but on a plane you plan to scale out and spend time on, it's worth all the work. I'm sure you know about the steps in surface prep, and the techniques used in sticking it to the framework (traditional doping, or use of "Stix-It" ) and then the tightening of the fabric, filling the weave, and finishing/painting. In essence, a Koverall finish is the same method used on full-scale fabric covered aircraft. It will NEVER wrinkle or sag after it's finished, patches easily if torn, but is pretty strong and durable stuff. When doped and painted, it really isn't any heavier than Solartex (well, depends on what primer, what paint, how many coats).
Coincidentally, the only plane I've had with Coverite was a Decathlon. Unfortunately, I crashed it early in its career, when I rebuild it, it will get Koverall.
1st pic, front of Super-D (Coverite), 2nd is my GP DR-1 (Solartex and latex paint), 3rd is my WACO UMF ARF (recovered with Koverall and Krylon paint)
Now, to my favorite, Koverall. Obviously it's more work, but on a plane you plan to scale out and spend time on, it's worth all the work. I'm sure you know about the steps in surface prep, and the techniques used in sticking it to the framework (traditional doping, or use of "Stix-It" ) and then the tightening of the fabric, filling the weave, and finishing/painting. In essence, a Koverall finish is the same method used on full-scale fabric covered aircraft. It will NEVER wrinkle or sag after it's finished, patches easily if torn, but is pretty strong and durable stuff. When doped and painted, it really isn't any heavier than Solartex (well, depends on what primer, what paint, how many coats).
Coincidentally, the only plane I've had with Coverite was a Decathlon. Unfortunately, I crashed it early in its career, when I rebuild it, it will get Koverall.
1st pic, front of Super-D (Coverite), 2nd is my GP DR-1 (Solartex and latex paint), 3rd is my WACO UMF ARF (recovered with Koverall and Krylon paint)
#3
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RE: Fabric Covering's
I can highly recommend Solartex. Even with a clear coat it is lighter than Coverite.
I strongly suggest a clearcoat after all you decals, markings, etc are on the plane. The clear coat seals everything. Solartex does not "REQUIRE" a clear coat, however, without a clearcoat be prepared to use a fingernail brush along with soap and water to get the dirt/grime out of the weave - ESPECIALLY on light colors.
I have used yellow Solartex without a clear coat and that is what I had to do to get out the dirt/grime and residue from my 4 stroke.
It doesn't need to be a heavy clear coat to seal everything.
I strongly suggest a clearcoat after all you decals, markings, etc are on the plane. The clear coat seals everything. Solartex does not "REQUIRE" a clear coat, however, without a clearcoat be prepared to use a fingernail brush along with soap and water to get the dirt/grime out of the weave - ESPECIALLY on light colors.
I have used yellow Solartex without a clear coat and that is what I had to do to get out the dirt/grime and residue from my 4 stroke.
It doesn't need to be a heavy clear coat to seal everything.
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RE: Fabric Covering's
I'm with Khodges and vote for Koverall. Sure it takes a bit more time than a prefinished fabric, but it looks sooo good, and it will never wrinkle or sag. An added benefit is that should you ever need to make repairs, patches can be made pretty much invisible.
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RE: Fabric Covering's
Hey Guys,
What material would you suggest in fabric i should cover my 5 rudders in, these are for my Super Constellation model i am currently building. These has to be on very light side yet covered in fabric!
Oh forgot to mention, it would be great if pre-painted in white color material is selected.
What material would you suggest in fabric i should cover my 5 rudders in, these are for my Super Constellation model i am currently building. These has to be on very light side yet covered in fabric!
Oh forgot to mention, it would be great if pre-painted in white color material is selected.
#10
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RE: Fabric Covering's
ORIGINAL: Props4ever
Hey Guys,
What material would you suggest in fabric i should cover my 5 rudders in, these are for my Super Constellation model i am currently building. These has to be on very light side yet covered in fabric!
Oh forgot to mention, it would be great if pre-painted in white color material is selected.
Hey Guys,
What material would you suggest in fabric i should cover my 5 rudders in, these are for my Super Constellation model i am currently building. These has to be on very light side yet covered in fabric!
Oh forgot to mention, it would be great if pre-painted in white color material is selected.
What's the wingspan on that baby?
#11
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RE: Fabric Covering's
ORIGINAL: khodges
That just screams for Koverall. Dope them with nitrate dope and paint with paint of choice. It will be as light as any prefinished material. But if you go for prefinished, definitely Solartex.
What's the wingspan on that baby?
ORIGINAL: Props4ever
Hey Guys,
What material would you suggest in fabric i should cover my 5 rudders in, these are for my Super Constellation model i am currently building. These has to be on very light side yet covered in fabric!
Oh forgot to mention, it would be great if pre-painted in white color material is selected.
Hey Guys,
What material would you suggest in fabric i should cover my 5 rudders in, these are for my Super Constellation model i am currently building. These has to be on very light side yet covered in fabric!
Oh forgot to mention, it would be great if pre-painted in white color material is selected.
What's the wingspan on that baby?
Link is on my signature for my thread, check it out, you will not be disappointed!
I will check what is readily available from LHS and make my decision then.
Thanks khodges!.
Sammy
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RE: Fabric Covering's
Just my own thoughts. I have been using the Stits Polyfiber system for the last 15 years. It is the same system used in full scale. The fabric is a smaller weave for models and is basicly polyester cloth. I use the Polycoat type of paints that F7M enterprizes sells on their web-site. The paint is already thinned for spraying. Once this system is on your airframe it adds a large amount of strength to the airframe. Won't sag ever. It weighs about the same as the iron-on coverings and the cost is almost the same.
Take a look ant F&M's web-site before you decide what to do. One thing I have done in the past for a friend is use the poly-tak that holds the fabric on for the iron-on coverings. Just think a bit with MEK and paint on all areas you want the fabric to stick to. Works ten times better than the glue or what ever they use on iron-on coverings. It takes a bit longer to apply this system but it is scale as you want to be and much stronger than the other coverings. A friend of mine cartwheeled his 30% Pitts S2 down the runway and all that happened was some paint rash and one broken rudder tip. Oh yes the prop was trash. But the airframe was just as solid as before he dumped it.
Worth a look.
http://www.stits.com/
Take a look ant F&M's web-site before you decide what to do. One thing I have done in the past for a friend is use the poly-tak that holds the fabric on for the iron-on coverings. Just think a bit with MEK and paint on all areas you want the fabric to stick to. Works ten times better than the glue or what ever they use on iron-on coverings. It takes a bit longer to apply this system but it is scale as you want to be and much stronger than the other coverings. A friend of mine cartwheeled his 30% Pitts S2 down the runway and all that happened was some paint rash and one broken rudder tip. Oh yes the prop was trash. But the airframe was just as solid as before he dumped it.
Worth a look.
http://www.stits.com/
#14
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RE: Fabric Covering's
i have been told worldtex is the same as solartex just repackaged, but i dont know this for sure. have used both and like them both.
if you plan on having the plane for a long time go sig koverall, i have several planes that are 18-20 years old with it and still tight as a drum!
if you plan on having the plane for a long time go sig koverall, i have several planes that are 18-20 years old with it and still tight as a drum!
#15
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RE: Fabric Covering's
ORIGINAL: eagledancer
i have been told worldtex is the same as solartex just repackaged, but i dont know this for sure. have used both and like them both.
if you plan on having the plane for a long time go sig koverall, i have several planes that are 18-20 years old with it and still tight as a drum!
i have been told worldtex is the same as solartex just repackaged, but i dont know this for sure. have used both and like them both.
if you plan on having the plane for a long time go sig koverall, i have several planes that are 18-20 years old with it and still tight as a drum!
Yes i am keeping this particular Connie for myself as i am planning to make kits of it in near future.
#17
RE: Fabric Covering's
ORIGINAL: DavidAgar
Has anyone heard of WorldTex. My local Hobby Shop has that in stock. Thanks once again, Dave
Has anyone heard of WorldTex. My local Hobby Shop has that in stock. Thanks once again, Dave
I find either very easy to work with, I prepare the wood surface with any of the stick-ems and iron it on. I use clear Butyrate Dope to enhance the tauteness. For modelers, Brodak can't be beat. Like SIG, Brodak is a derivative from Randolph, however Brodak just works very well. For a clear finish you will definitely need some Retarder, and probably for a color also. Brodak Color Dope goes a long way.