bignuts181

Thankyou Thankyou SDCrashmaster. yes i think the hinges will help.....co compensate for the glue and maybe the light ply down the rear, but as to C of G only time will tell, more work to follow......soon..maybe tomorrow.

bignuts181

Hey guys, well I did some more work on the cessna again today as well as something for "me". Small achievement I know but a neccessary one. So first up it was time to fit the cooling flaps in the bottom of the fuse these come in the form of neat fibreglass mouldings that are glued on after you cut a hole out for them in the cowl. A little odd I have to admitt as it would be stronger and easier to have them moulded into the cowl but no matter the hole thing is an easy affair just measure thrice and cut once, just don't stuff it up!! the cowl flaps are glued in from the inside with hysol.

While the gun was out I also made a small mounting pad under the wing to mount an AR9100E spectrum receiver.

So while this was all going off I turned my attention to carefully cutting and fitting one wheel spat to the leg. Now here is a diffrent idea on fitting spats that I havn't come accross before and quite a neat one too. After a conversation with Glen at Austars to get the full gist of fitting the spat, but basically you carefully nibble the glass away until the spat slips neatly over the leg from the axle end so the leg ends up on the inside and gives the wheel/spacer something solid to sit up against, finally you have the ale hole pretapped into the leg and so the locknut on the other side of the spat and leg holds the spat on.....all in all very clever. A cardboard template was then traced from the inside and transfered to the other leg. I find for cutting out round or oval holes a dimond tipped 1/4" spindle works best, I have mine fitted to the end of a 90 degree air die grinder, the other usefull tool is a 2" cut off wheel also attachable to the die grinder.

Finally I have now also fitted the closed loop cables to the nose wheel along with dubro closed loop couplers and sullivan 4-40 clevises.

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

Back onto my build of the C-182. All is going well, am also in discussion with my float supplier re ampbib floats. (Removeable wheels).

A question for BN 181. What rates are you using on your flying surfaces. i.e. ailerons, elevator and rudder. I know the instructions say 25 degrees for the ailerons.

Due to the larger surfaces we don't need alot and it's not that it's a 3D flyer. I usually like more than I will ever use, I can't get my head around small rates, especially once it's glued, that's it without having to perform surgery on the model.

Was doing some referencing with my other models. I have 1/4 scale Taylorcraft which has (elevator 1 1/8")or 30mm, (ailerons 5/8")15-20mm.

Regards
Randy

bignuts181

hi there randy my general rool of thumb is get as much throw as you can or what ever looks right generally is.......that is to say I have been at a little bit of a standstill at the moment while I contemplate my navel.......but will be resuming building soon....ps for those guys interested in the Austars ag husky I will be building one over the next week for a mamoth scale event and will have a review up a couple of weeks later!

cheers Rossco.

cgcrc

Hi Rossco;

Thanks for your reply. Was wondering if you could check your model to see if you had the same small "glitch" I have.
The molded section of the fuse at the rear of the root rib does not line up with the flap when fully extended. (see attached pic).

Looks like I have about 5 degrees of flap when in fact the flap is in the full up position relative to the wing. It's about 5/16" out.

Have also contacted Austar re the issue to contact the factory, haven't heard back yet.

So far so good with the assembly.

Regards
Randy

bignuts181

Hi there Randy, I had a small amount of this on mine too the fix is to make sure you have the flap sitting in line with the bottom of the wing, if you still have a problem trim the trailing edge or the wing back about 5mm on both sides to the rivett line, also check that there has been enough trimmed away on the root end as mine needed some fettling to get it rite.

PS my build thread is currently on hold while I prep a few models for a large scale model rally building will re comence after the 20-21 st September.

cheers Rossco.

bignuts181

Hi guys well after a couple of weeks of prep before Shepparton mamoth scale rally in country Victoria, the event was a raging success with many ails consumed buy all and much chatter and flying to be done so here we are again and it's time to get this baby finished and sorted. So tonight it was a quick clean up of the shop and make a tow release mounting plate to be hysoled into the roof of the model using some nice 1/4 ply as both a mounting plate and as an upper former to tie the structure together.....sadly in my clean up I have missplaced my hysole tips so that will have to wait till tomorrow.....

Dad_Roman

Some good lookin stuff on the wall

What kit and scale is the Pawnee?

bignuts181

Hi there Roman thanks for the compliment, the pawnee on the wall is the 80" model from hanger 9. this one I've powered with an e-flite power 90 on 6s throwing a 16x8 and has enough power to tow the CMPRO Ventus you can see in the forground. It was finished at 1 am the morning of the rally in a very scale like manner. All in all a very pleasing model.

Now if you want a really nice pawnee style model I will begin reviewing in a few days Austars new 188 ag husky to 110" span

http://www.austars-model.com/dispdet...01082006383469

cheers Rossco.

bignuts181

Hey guys well not much exciting to tell tonight but I did manage to get the two ply formers hysoled into place today. Now as we all know a filet is far stronger than a hard edge or a bulging blob of glue and is the next best thing to a triangle. To achieve this I used an old patternmakers filleting ball dipped in Metho. This gives a nice consistent fillet and will help to avoid cracked joints further into the models life especially if your towing large models on the back! Secondly a fillet is also easier to glass over than a lump, depending on how ridgid the stucture is after the hysole cures will determin weather I lay some glass over this area as well to keep the structure nice and stiff.

While the hysol was drying I but joined some 5mm balsa the full width of the cowl to make a cowling baffle. This will force cooling air over and through the cooling fins and thus keep the temperatures to a far more acceptable level during summers in the middle of peak aerotowing season..... electrical and ignition sytems tend to stop working above 40 degrees C, so this should make a big diffrence.

cheers Rossco.

bignuts181

Hey all well I got some more "little" jobs out the way today. After last hysoling the tow release mounts in last night I was pleaantly surprised at just how sturdy the roof of the model had become, so much in fact that I feel any extra fibre glass would be a wast of time. So today I started fitting up the tow release servo making use of an extra servo tray provided in the kit.....gees the guys at austars make my life a hole lot easier.....I hate making servo trays! So next was to bore a hole in the top of the fuse where the tow line will enter the fuse and be captured buy the release pin. The release pin is piano wire with a zed bend in one end with a taper gound on the other. I prefer a zed bend as it eliminates the chances of a soldered connection letting go or a clevise failing at the most crucial time during an emergency release. Next up was to glass some 3oz cloth to the inside of the side acess door and roof panel as well as finalise the shape and glass the engine baffle again using 3oz gloth and some good quality R180 laminating epoxy from Fibre Glass International in Melbourne. This would have to be the very best laminating epoxy I have ever come accross as it cures rock hard and doesn't ball up when you want to sand say a wing or similar and flows beutifully with a very thin viscosity.....no Metho/rubbing alchohole near my glasswork thankyou! So next up it's onto the wheel spats.

bignuts181

Hi guys did some more work on the Cessna tonight, not much but I did manage to glass the inside of the wheel spats with first a layer of 6k corbon twill and backed this up with 3 oz twill cloth to act as a stiffener and give some structural integrity to the spat as there only secured buy the inside face, when doing this it is important to make the glass backing layer about 10mm wider than the carbon as this will help to eliminate a stress riser in the glass (if all layers were stopping square then the brake would occur next to the thickest layer, buy staggering the layers then you are distributing the loads over a bigger area.)

So next up I'll be overcoming the flexing firewall where the nose wheel block is attached top the engine firewall buy adding a 6mm thick buy 15mm rib and glassing either side..

till next time......cheers all.

bignuts181

Here we are again, well I made a start on the firewall tonight but decided to glass both sides of the firewall formers with 2 layers of 4k carbon cloth, once cured this will be cut to size and glassed over after hysoling into place. So while the carbon was drying I set about lifting my side door inner skin from the bench and was suitably impressed at ho well Cibre's QZ 11 release agent works requiring absolutely no removal of bench top from my glass skin. The new skin is much like Proskin and cuts easily with a pair of kevlar scissors (chicken boaning skissors work well too!) The skin was duely trimmed oversized and glued to the inside with laminating epoxy and left to cure overnight. Tomorrow the inner skin will be marked to size with a pair of dividers and trimmed back with a diamond burr.

cheers Rossco.

bignuts181

So what are your thoughts guys any comments or alternative ideas??

SDCrashmaster

Rossco,
Awesome stuff mate. Do know that we're out here watching you...and waiting to see what you're going to do next.
The reinforcement exercises you're now working on are something that most will never have need to do, as they won't be towing large gliders, etc.
But you are doing an exceptional job. This is more of an instruction manual on how to set this plane up for towing.
And, it is so thorough and complete that it leaves no questions unanswered.
I am sure if someone has an idea or question, they'll chime in.

I think we're all ready to see this plane assembled in the sunlight at the field already!

But, just know that we're watching and appreciate you taking the time to keep us updated along your journey!
Paul

bignuts181

Thanks Paul mauch appreciated, I got some good stuff done tonight but you'll have to wait till tomorrow night for that...

bignuts181

Hi guys well I got some good work done ofter the last couple of nights. first up the door flange has been trimmed back to about a 5mm flange using a 2" cut off wheel and a diamond cutter on the end of an air power 90 degree die dringer. This was then pencil touched white and I think will later be painted black. The reasoning for the white first is to help prevent getting dark shadows on the inside of the glass work as the glass itself is relatively translucent.

Next up was to make up a neat cable loom running on both sides of the fuse firewall and coming into one common bundle of wires and stopping just infront of the receiver and well away from the satelite recievers.... and hey I think it even looks neat. As a rule of thumb if it looks neat and tidey then it generally is rite!....

I also made up and fitted a replacement loom to the tail consisting of two 24" heavy duty extension leads and one 36" lead to drive both elevators, the rudder and to carry power to both tail beakons. the looms for these as with all wiring was slid inside automotive braid to help protect the wiring and again keep things neat and tidy, this was tacked in with 732 silicon adhesive. You will notice from the pics both ends of the loom are terminated though the fuse with the wires travelling through rubber gromets to prevent excess vibration wearing through the wires.

finally tonight I have glued in the rear and both door windows with clear 732 Silicon adhesive as this is an easy medium to work with and prevents the windows from cracking in the event of the glass work flexing and from vibration. Any excess silicon can be gleaned off with metho on a rag, and better still if hypothetically you need to remove the windows at any time you can prise them off the glass and clean the excess off the plastic and fibreglass parts......not easily but it can be done!

cheers always Rossco

SDCrashmaster

[sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif]

bignuts181

Hi guys, l managed to get an hours worth of building in tonight and managed to partly fix the chipped paint around the side access door after cutting the door free.Ialsomanaged to sheath all three spectum satelite receiver leads with heatshrink. This was done not only to help protect the wrather fragile wires but to make them look a little more uniform with the braided main power wires, who says men can't accessorise a model...... maybe they should have been pink....NOT! So after that I turned my attention to drilling out the top of the fin and end of the tail cone for the nav lights. Now if memory serves me correctly the tail lamp should be solid white and the beacon ontop of the fin should be of the red flashing variety. Now so far I have resisted the temptation to fire them up and see what colour is what but I will be soon enough, simply because I can't really go terribly much further till I do, but I do have a lead on the most brilliant nav beacon after a fellow modeller fired up his on a 1/3rd scale cub, me retiners were burning for hours after or it was just the over indulgence in whisky that was flowing so freely that night!
But just the same I want some that are really bright for the flashy bits in the wing tips, with solid marker lights. For the landing lights I'm going to use some high intensity LED torche globes and lenses that will activate when the flaps are lowered via a micro switch and mini servo (very low tech!)

cheers all more pics to come later.

wifpwcf

nice work there rossco looking mighty fine.
cg

bignuts181

hi guys project on hold while I marathon build the Austars Ag husky for a kit review. back in 2 weeks.

Rossco

rossaero

Looking good can hardly wait for the rest of the build.

al

cgcrc

Hi Fellows:

My model is almost ready to fly. Had a little delay due to the bracket arrangement needed for the float conversion. Had to to be installed now otherwise it would have been a "beast" after the model was completed. Float conversion will be over the winter. Hate to say that winter word, but it does give a good opportunity of building.

Just a few pics of the model a while ago before my backyard got some grass.

New mould should be completed by now from the factory and the mods completed. Will be ordering another and checking it out and then stocking for US and Canada market.

Regards
Randy

cgcrc

Hi Fellows;

A little more work done on the C-182. Just installed the front brackets for the floats. Had to get them in now before final installation of the windows etc. Brackets made from aluminum bracket material 6061 with a 1/8" web.

Took a while re the figuring out what style bracket I was going to make and then fabrication. My float builder helped me on the design and material needed. Sure will be worth it once you see her on floats.

Will probably start another thread re the floats and installation once received.

Regards
Randy

bignuts181

looks good can't wait for you to start your thread....[8D]