wwoneguy

Hi Bob, I have built the spad last spring and flew it till it got cold out. I have a Zenoah G 38 in mine and a 24 oz tank. After a ten min. flight I have found that I had used about 2/3 of the tank. Your engine is a little bigger but the Evolution 40's are good on fuel. I think you should use a little bigger tank then the 12oz or the 16 oz just for the safety factor.
The servo in the engine bay can lead to problems with the ignition EMI . I have a Nieuport 28 that I set up that way and had a lot of trouble with untill I moved the servo back into the fuse. If you use a push rod don't use a metal rod,use plastic. Do Do a good range check when you start the plane .Walk at least 100' to 200' away from the plane with the engine running and make sure no flutter or movement of the controls happens with out you doing it. If you have any unwanted control movement STOP! and find out why . Good luck. Gary [wwoneguy]

n2ryd

Gary,

Thanks for the info, Looking at it further we can run a flex - gold-n-rod out to the carb. Then there will be less of a chance for rf. Thanks for you help.

Bob

wwoneguy

Hi Bob, I built my Nieuport 28 first and only flew it six times in two years because of the RF problems from the G 26 engine. I shielded the aileron servo leads , moved the engine servo back , I changed the reciever, I moved the kill switch. I wasn't till I went to 2.4 that I could really fly the plane . I 'm not saying that 2.4 is a cure-all but I can now fly what was a unflyable plane.
When I was at Warbirds over Delaware I met a guy with a Spad 13 and everyone of his takeoffs where straight as a arrow. I talked with him and asked him how he did that. I'am a pretty good WWl pilot but the Spad was really testing my skills. He said he also had trouble with his takeoffs untill he put in a heading gyro on his rudder. I haven't done it yet to mine but you might think about it. Gary

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I had the same problem with my Fokker DVII. My RF problem ended up being the plug cap. I ordered a replacement cap from the ignition guy in wyoming. Cured it. It was only like $5.00, so you might try that. If you have an RF problem, you want to solve it as eventually it will come back to bite you.

jfassino

Jim,

Thanks for sharing your build, I have always wanted to build a SPAD XIII and this looks like the one. Looks like I have some reading to do.

See you at E-Fest

Jim

clearblue

My Feedback: (5)

Your welcome Jim. Just wish I had more time to build. Some of these guys on here have built two complete planes, and I'm still in the middle of mine. But I guess it's not a race, good thing! I do enjoy building, I just have a really small window to do so. Looking forward to seeing you on the flight line. Take care, and I'll see you Saturday. Jim

clearblue

My Feedback: (5)

Dave, Gary are you guys still around? I have a question about what Solder Irons you guys use. Jim

wwoneguy

Hi Jim , Yes I'am still around. I have several ,but the biggest I use on the struts and landing gear is a 75 watt heavy duty iron that does a great job . What are you working on now? I 'am finishing another D Vll ,but this time its electric. Gary

semeraro

Hi Jim,

I use one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-80-Watt...869497&sr=8-23

it is an 80 watt weller iron. It works great on large gear wire. Puts the heat down right now so it does not have time to travel up the wire. I used it on all the large soldering jobs on the albi.

Dave

JustFlyIt

I just noticed this thread a few days ago and thought that I might contribute pictures of the SPAD XIII that I am currently working on. The framing was done by a friend of mine and I am doing the finishing work along with electronics install.

This is a great kit. Big, relatively easy to work with and it is also my first cloth covering experience (Sig Koverall).

I just received photos and documentation from the NASM in DC and will be modeling the one that they have on display. I am also hoping for flying this on Memorial Day; still have a bit of work ahead of me. But with my two building buddies helping me (see picture) I shouldn't be in too bad of shape.

Thanks
Don S

wwoneguy

Hi Don, Nice build. I haven't used the Sig Koverall but I have covered full sized A/C. When you get ready to fly be sure the balance is on the money. Don't let it be tail heavy. I have several WWl A/C ,but I find the Spad to be a hand-full on takeoffs. Don't yank her off the runway,let her get speed-up first. I was at "Warbirds over Delaware" and another guy had a Spad Xlll and had great takeoffs. I asked him how he did it ,he said "Heading Gyro on the rudder". Iam thinking about it too. Gary

JustFlyIt

Thanks Gary, the build has been fun. Satisfaction on almost every step.

I am currently flying a Hanger 9 Sopwith Camel ARF. Man, what a handful. I need to be on that rudder almost every moment on the flight. Seems way more important than on my other airplanes. I have thought about putting a heading hold gyro in it but not sure how I feel about "cheating" . Probably going to try it though...I want to reduce the risk.

WWI aircraft are a blast to build and fly. I definitely will do another

Don S.

wwoneguy

Hi Don, If you fly the Camel then you know what its going to be like with the Spad. I have said this to others before ,but I think the forward fuse. of the Spad blocks the airflow on takeoffs. The rudder only has limited effect untill you get up your speed. Then you are used to throwing the rudder to the stops and the next thing is you are over-controling the thing.All of the WWl planes that I have are rudder ships. If you don't use rudder in the turns, they drag their tails through . gary

cirrus4string

My Feedback: (12)

Gary,
I have been flying a BUSA Neuiport 28, (I am also just about complete on a BUSA DR1) how is the ground handling compared to the SPAD?
I am also battling with the engine I will use. I have a Saito 180 that I would like to use. Any thoughts about this?
Thanx Bill

JustFlyIt

Gary,

Rats, I was hoping that the SPAD would be a bit easier than the Camel to fly. Its amazing how the Camel will drag it's tail in a turn - unlike any of my other airplanes. Add just a little rudder and its a completely different experience. I was hoping that this was just a Camel characteristic and not the SPAD.

My basic takeoff strategy for the Camel and soon the SPAD is to slowing increase the throttle and stay on the rudder. If it starts to veer, abort. I have completely given up any kind of cross wind takeoff. I have over controlled the rudder on take off before but fortunately the Hangar 9 Camel takes the abuse (read crash) pretty well.

The gyro is sounding better and better. I have a Futaba 401 that I am going to try; goal - take the stress out of take off.

Don

wwoneguy

Hi Don, Make sure you program in aileron differential on any biplane. this helps a good deal with the tail drag in turns. You can also mix in a little rudder with the ailerons,but put the rudder mix on a switch so you can turn it off when you don't want it. I did the mixing with the Spad and it helps in flight ,but I turn it off for landing and takeoffs.Cross winds are tricky with any WWl plane. The full sized A/C didn't worry about C/W because they always tookoff and landed into the wind. They operated from fields and could chose their takeoff headings to some degree. No runways like we are used to today.. Thats one reason for the big wheels on all WWl A/C. Gary

wwoneguy

Hi Bill, I also have the Nieuport 28 and the fokker DVll ,by far the DVll is the easiest to takeoff. The Nieuport comes in about second on the easy list and the Spad third .The Dr1 ,in my opinion ,should have its own class for judging takeoffs and landings.If you look at pictures of any full sized DR1s they have axe handles on the bottom of the lower wings to protect the wings from ground contact. This was a fix for bad handling on the ground that wasn't seen in development of the plane. Sort of a Toyota cure for gas petal problems. In many cases the bad problems in the full sized A/C carry over to the model,sometimes worse. Take the AT 6 , beautiful plane with a tip stall problem in the full sized and the model. At least in the full sized plane you can watch the airspeed and stay out of the bad ranges. One other problem with the DR 1 is the full flying rudder. This makes the plane very sensitive to Yaw inputs. No vertical stab. to smooth out yaw. A friend of mine ,and his son,built a full sized DR 1, they said they had to fly it without shoes so they could feel the rudder better. They are great looking planes , good luck. Gary

wwoneguy

Bill, Sorry I didn't say anything about your engine. I think the Saito 180 is a great and powerful engine. More power then you need almost,but it should work fine. I sent you a couple pics ,they may be too big. I don't know why, i'll try to correct if they are too big. Gary

cirrus4string

My Feedback: (12)

Gary
Thanx for the input, I have looked at 2 DR1's that we have in the virginia beach air museum. it is part of the fighter factory based in suffolk va. I had already been working on the axe handle fix for my DR1. I am a little nervous about the SPAD, not to sure why, probably because there are so many different views about this airplane. I will probably just jump in and enjoy the build. Thanx for the pictures
Bill

cirrus4string

My Feedback: (12)

Gary I reread my post, I am thinking of the Saito 180 in the Spad, I have a Saito 150 for the DR1
Thanx
Bill

wwoneguy

Bill, I think the Saito 180 should work in the Spad. I put a G 38 in mine and I thought I was going to need a prop.shaft extention to clear the cowl,I was OK but the back of the prop only clears the cowl by 5/8" . If you got the pics,the red D Vll is mine and the N 28, but I built the other D Vlls for guys in our club.
Gary

cirrus4string

My Feedback: (12)

Gary
Thanx for your help, Since I started WW1 aircraft I don't want to fly or build anything else..
Thanx Bill

clearblue

My Feedback: (5)

Don, she looks good so far. What colors are you thinking of using? I have been working on the wing struts. I ran in to a little trouble. As I was soldering the last strut, I didn't have enough cord to reach so I moved the plane closer to the outlet, right. OK well I use a small butane torch to heat the wire so it doesn't take as much time to get the solder to flow. AAHHH you guested it, the in direct heat from my torch caught the rear of the plane on fire. Long story short I have rebuilt the last six inched of the Spad. And have learned a lesson. Don't use a solder gun, buy a solder iron. Leave the torch on the self. I have a large gun 250 watt, but they just don't produce the heat an Iron will. So I have since picked up a 150 watt Iron. And also picked up the nick name the FIREMAN[sm=red_smile.gif] from the guys in my Club. Maybe later I'll give you the rest of the story as Paul Harvey used to say. Jim

JustFlyIt

Jim, I am having problems with the covering, particularly on the rudder and elevators. I don't seem to be able to get the seams to look right. Essentially not sure how to overlap the cloth. I thought that I had my rudder in reasonably good order but when I sprayed by primer (Behr acrylic, slightly thinned with distilled water) every flaw was exposed.

The other problem I am having is getting a decent cut on the Koverall. Without a really sharp blade that stuff can turn to threads in no time.

But I am enjoying the process. I guess the real WWI fighters didn't look flawless either. A finished SPAD looks great. I plan on modeling the one at the NASM (Ray Brook's Smith IV; many guys have done it). The research staff sent me some great information and pictures. I am really looking forward to getting the prep done so that I can start on the fun stuff (detailing, etc)

On the shopping list - solder iron. That must have been painful to see your SPAD in flames on the bench!

The FIREMAN nick name story sounds like it would be perfect over a couple of beers.

Don

semeraro

Hello Don,

Excuse me for butting in on the thread. I have a solution for the problem you are having with seams. I cover my ugly koverall seams with rib tape. I iron on a strip of solartex over the seam to hide it. Of course now you have to put rib tapes on all the ribs too. You will be able to see the edge of the tape but you are supposed to see that. Solartex rips perfectly straight along the grain so you can make nice even tapes. And no fraying at the edges either. Hope that helps..

Regards, Dave