Balsa USA Spad 13 build
03-01-2010, 09:45 PM
#276
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
Don have you tried a double blade razor? the old style shaving blade. They cut really clean lines. And as Dave said he used solartex as rib tape and his ship looks great. Check out his Albatros, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67..._8/key_/tm.htm And yes a couple of beers would help the story. Cheers, Jim
03-01-2010, 10:20 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
Dave, I will give the Solartex idea a try. Sounds like it will even add some scale detail!
Jim, I didn't realize double blade razors were still available. I will give those a try tomorrow. Thanks for the link. The pictures were inspiring (awesome plane Dave). The way my covering job is currently going I am not convince that I will be putting out great pictures. In fact, I think that I will be pulling some of my new covering off and trying again (going to need those beers).
At this point I have gone from a Memorial Day flying goal to in the air before this year's Hoosier Dawn Patrol in August.
Thanks for the input, its really appreciated.
Don
Jim, I didn't realize double blade razors were still available. I will give those a try tomorrow. Thanks for the link. The pictures were inspiring (awesome plane Dave). The way my covering job is currently going I am not convince that I will be putting out great pictures. In fact, I think that I will be pulling some of my new covering off and trying again (going to need those beers).
At this point I have gone from a Memorial Day flying goal to in the air before this year's Hoosier Dawn Patrol in August.
Thanks for the input, its really appreciated.
Don
03-01-2010, 11:09 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
Reading some of the other threads on this type of build I have figured out one thing, I haven't done near the sanding job that I need to do.
Oh and one other thing, if I use the Nitrate Dope in the garage without opening the door again my wife is probably going to kill me (if the fumes don't first).
Oh and one other thing, if I use the Nitrate Dope in the garage without opening the door again my wife is probably going to kill me (if the fumes don't first).
03-02-2010, 10:58 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
I sprayed nitrate in a closed garage once. Not a good idea.
Sanding and surface prep is important to a good finish. I have covered with koverall and not used rib tapes but when doing that I had to do many cycles of dope and sand to smooth the seams. For me the covering always looks bad until I get several thinned coats of dope on it. You are going to need 3 or 4 coats to fill the weave anyway. At least I do. Dont get discouraged and keep plugging away.
If you really want to scare yourself try some glenn torrance lozenge fabric. The intermediate state looks horrible but the finished product is stunning.
I am planning on going to the HDP myself. Hope to see you there.
Dave
03-03-2010, 09:28 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
Well I am slow but I finally catch on sooner or later. The main covering problem that I was having was attaching the cloth to the fuse on the the hard sides near the cockpit. I originally did a crap job of cutting the cloth and ended up with a ragged, bumpy line on each side of the fuse. After reading all your guy's previous comments I decide to dope the sides up (really soaking it in). After it soaked in but before it dried I used a double edge razor to make a straight cut and then pulled away the screwed up material.
More dope and a huge amount of sanding allowed me to smooth the new straighter edges to where it almost blends in with the fuse wood. Not perfect but not horrible for my first time at this.
Some guys are using water based Minwax instead of the nitrate dope. I tried it. Smells better but really runny....so I am not sure if I am using it right. Overall impression is that the dope will provide a tougher finish. Is this true?
Next, auto body putty the fuse wood surface, sand my brains out and then primer.
More dope and a huge amount of sanding allowed me to smooth the new straighter edges to where it almost blends in with the fuse wood. Not perfect but not horrible for my first time at this.
Some guys are using water based Minwax instead of the nitrate dope. I tried it. Smells better but really runny....so I am not sure if I am using it right. Overall impression is that the dope will provide a tougher finish. Is this true?
Next, auto body putty the fuse wood surface, sand my brains out and then primer.
03-03-2010, 09:30 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
I have covered with Koverall two ways. Both ways start off with 2 coats of nitrate dope to the bare wood. I sand lightly after the first coat just to knock the fuzz down that the dope raises. Of course sand the bare balsa smooth before the first coat of dope. After the second coat is dry I either use stidk-it from sig or attach the old fashioned way with dope. Stick-it is a liquid heat activated glue that you paint on the doped surface all around the edges of where you want your koverall to attach. Then you let it dry and put your koverall on with an iron sort of like monokote. The heat from the iron activates the glue and sticks the covering down. Then you shrink out the wrinkles with the iron or a heat gun. This is followed by as many coats of nitrate as it takes to fill the weave. The other method involves using nitrate dope as an adhesive and working like you would with tissue. Put some dope on where you would have put on stick-it. Let it dry and then lay on the koverall. Go over the edge with a brush full of thinner to soften the dope under the covering and rub down the koverall with your finger. When the dope sticks to the koverall move to another section and repeat. I have to tell you using stick-it is faster and easier. I think both of these techniques have been described on other threads by other modelers. And I think they are even on the directions for koverall itself. Anyway, I thought I would throw this in for the heck of it. I should mention I have not covered a whole lot with koverall. Dave Johnson turned me on to the stuff a couple of years ago. I really like it and the only other covering I will use for scale models is Glenn Torrance fabric when I need the lozenge finish. Anyway that is my blather for the evening. WWI rules!
Dave
03-28-2010, 09:50 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
I'm in the Process of starting to Build my BUSA Spad XIII. Has anyone out there come up with a REMOVABLE Wing System that works?! I'm trying to come up with something to help with Transport and Assembly at the Field. Please give me some detail if you can help me out.
Thanks,
Ray.
Thanks,
Ray.
03-28-2010, 10:28 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
All I've seen use the factory dessigned method. You are looking for something else?
steve
www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com
steve
www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com
03-28-2010, 04:09 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
ORIGINAL: R/C Ray
I'm in the Process of starting to Build my BUSA Spad XIII. Has anyone out there come up with a REMOVABLE Wing System that works?! I'm trying to come up with something to help with Transport and Assembly at the Field. Please give me some detail if you can help me out.
Thanks,
Ray.
I'm in the Process of starting to Build my BUSA Spad XIII. Has anyone out there come up with a REMOVABLE Wing System that works?! I'm trying to come up with something to help with Transport and Assembly at the Field. Please give me some detail if you can help me out.
Thanks,
Ray.
03-29-2010, 01:27 PM
#285
RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
ORIGINAL: semeraro
I have covered with Koverall two ways. Both ways start off with 2 coats of nitrate dope to the bare wood. I sand lightly after the first coat just to knock the fuzz down that the dope raises. Of course sand the bare balsa smooth before the first coat of dope. After the second coat is dry I either use stidk-it from sig or attach the old fashioned way with dope. Stick-it is a liquid heat activated glue that you paint on the doped surface all around the edges of where you want your koverall to attach. Then you let it dry and put your koverall on with an iron sort of like monokote. The heat from the iron activates the glue and sticks the covering down. Then you shrink out the wrinkles with the iron or a heat gun. This is followed by as many coats of nitrate as it takes to fill the weave. The other method involves using nitrate dope as an adhesive and working like you would with tissue. Put some dope on where you would have put on stick-it. Let it dry and then lay on the koverall. Go over the edge with a brush full of thinner to soften the dope under the covering and rub down the koverall with your finger. When the dope sticks to the koverall move to another section and repeat. I have to tell you using stick-it is faster and easier. I think both of these techniques have been described on other threads by other modelers. And I think they are even on the directions for koverall itself. Anyway, I thought I would throw this in for the heck of it. I should mention I have not covered a whole lot with koverall. Dave Johnson turned me on to the stuff a couple of years ago. I really like it and the only other covering I will use for scale models is Glenn Torrance fabric when I need the lozenge finish. Anyway that is my blather for the evening. WWI rules!
Dave
I have covered with Koverall two ways. Both ways start off with 2 coats of nitrate dope to the bare wood. I sand lightly after the first coat just to knock the fuzz down that the dope raises. Of course sand the bare balsa smooth before the first coat of dope. After the second coat is dry I either use stidk-it from sig or attach the old fashioned way with dope. Stick-it is a liquid heat activated glue that you paint on the doped surface all around the edges of where you want your koverall to attach. Then you let it dry and put your koverall on with an iron sort of like monokote. The heat from the iron activates the glue and sticks the covering down. Then you shrink out the wrinkles with the iron or a heat gun. This is followed by as many coats of nitrate as it takes to fill the weave. The other method involves using nitrate dope as an adhesive and working like you would with tissue. Put some dope on where you would have put on stick-it. Let it dry and then lay on the koverall. Go over the edge with a brush full of thinner to soften the dope under the covering and rub down the koverall with your finger. When the dope sticks to the koverall move to another section and repeat. I have to tell you using stick-it is faster and easier. I think both of these techniques have been described on other threads by other modelers. And I think they are even on the directions for koverall itself. Anyway, I thought I would throw this in for the heck of it. I should mention I have not covered a whole lot with koverall. Dave Johnson turned me on to the stuff a couple of years ago. I really like it and the only other covering I will use for scale models is Glenn Torrance fabric when I need the lozenge finish. Anyway that is my blather for the evening. WWI rules!
Dave
I plan on using Balsarite or stixit to adhere it and then I will just seal it up with Poly-u. No smell on this one!
03-30-2010, 09:29 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
Hi vertical,
Do you know what the dacron weighs per yard. I am always trying to diversify my sources for supplies. If koverall should vanish I would like an alternative. I have a bit of dress lining from a fabric store I have been meaning to try. I dont think it was very expensive either and I have heard others say they have used it in the past. It is getting warm enough to dope in the garage now and I have a PT-19 that a buddy of mine asked me to cover for him. I might try the dress lining on the rudder just to see how it looks.
Dave
Do you know what the dacron weighs per yard. I am always trying to diversify my sources for supplies. If koverall should vanish I would like an alternative. I have a bit of dress lining from a fabric store I have been meaning to try. I dont think it was very expensive either and I have heard others say they have used it in the past. It is getting warm enough to dope in the garage now and I have a PT-19 that a buddy of mine asked me to cover for him. I might try the dress lining on the rudder just to see how it looks.
Dave
04-22-2010, 07:41 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
I'm at the point of building the landing gear on my Spad. I don't like the way that BUSA designed the gear. I made major changes to my Nieuport 17, which really looks great and works well. My problem is finding pictures of the Spad gear?! Mostly the outer plat that has the slot where the axle rides in. Does anyone know of a site that shows this detail? Maybe a picture or two of YOUR gear and "HOW" you set it up.
Thanks,
Ray.
Thanks,
Ray.
04-22-2010, 08:46 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
If you can't find a picture you can pretty much engineer the plate after its function... There's a vertical slot that allows the axel to move up and down. The spreader bar has a front and rear bar that extends through the main gear support and is most likely attached via nuts on the outside. The bungee damp the axel. I've seen two different versions of the bungee.. One shows the bungee on the inside. This is wrapped around the spreader bar and damps the axel. The other one shows the bungee on the outside wrapped around the base of the main gear.
Look here.. lots of good stuff:
storage.mfa.free.fr/SpadXIIIuk.html storage.mfa.free.fr/SpadXIIIuk.htm
Look here.. lots of good stuff:
storage.mfa.free.fr/SpadXIIIuk.html storage.mfa.free.fr/SpadXIIIuk.htm
04-23-2010, 09:55 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
I built the LG on my SPAD according to the BUSA plans and it works surprisingly well. Ground handling is better than I expected. I modified the wings to have a thinner airfoil just to make it look more scale. I also modified the nose shape a little. The model flies great!
Covering is Sig Koverall and paint is Behr latex with a polyurethane clearcoat on the cowl areas. The rest of the plane has a Polycrylic cleacoat.
Jim
Covering is Sig Koverall and paint is Behr latex with a polyurethane clearcoat on the cowl areas. The rest of the plane has a Polycrylic cleacoat.
Jim
04-23-2010, 10:41 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
ORIGINAL: BobH
Jim, youe Spad looks really great. Exactly how did you thin the ribs? The one thing that bothers me is the really thick airfoil of the stock kit.
Jim, youe Spad looks really great. Exactly how did you thin the ribs? The one thing that bothers me is the really thick airfoil of the stock kit.
Thinning the wing section necessitates using functional flying wires, but I don't mind that.
Attached is a picture of how I thinned the Nieuport ribs. You can't thin them too much or you won't be able to use their spar stock.
Jim
04-23-2010, 11:50 AM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
ORIGINAL: JohnF
Jim, you have to be the king of BUSA kit builders! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]
Jim, you have to be the king of BUSA kit builders! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]
Some day I'm going to enlarge the plans of this and build a 1/3 scale version. I just love the way this plane flies!
Jim
04-23-2010, 12:08 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
I forgot to mention that I moved the CG forward by about 3/4". The wings are directly in line (no stagger), so I went with 25% of the upper wing chord, which to me is the best starting point for most warbirds. The wheels are pretty far forward, so it doesn't have a tendancy to tip over on it's nose like a lot of WW1 models.
Jim
Jim
04-23-2010, 12:34 PM
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RE: Balsa USA Spad 13 build
ORIGINAL: BobH
Jim thank you for the information. Would it be possible to get a card board template of you Spad rib? I'd pay
Jim thank you for the information. Would it be possible to get a card board template of you Spad rib? I'd pay
I'll see if I can attach a PDF file here.