Yeah, that's a good video. I think I watched it back when I was working the stitching for my Snipe. Even though these videos don't show the Z-stitching they at least motivated me to try again. Here's what I have. First I laid down a 2mm strip of double sided tape, but left on the plastic backing. (I could probably leave this off as it's not scale on the CI.) The I marked the hole locations on the top of the wing and then using the same locations marked the bottom of the wing. Then with a sewing awl, I made initial holes through the covering and through the edges of the rib cap strips.
For the stitching itself, the thread comes up from the bottom (say, on the right side) than goes across and down into the hole on the left. Then on the bottom it goes back across to the starting hole and comes up again. Next the thread goes diagonally from the right hole and then down into the next left hole. Then, on the bottom, it goes across, and then back up on the right. Then, I bring the needle back across to the left and slip it under the diagonal thread, then pull the ''knot'' tight into the corner and put the needle back down into the (left) hole. Then it goes across on the bottom and that's one stitch. With some practice, I could be able to do maybe one rib in 5 minutes...and all the ribs in a couple of days of effort. The Z-stitching looks reasonably scale on the top, but the straight across stitches on the bottom are wrong for the Albatros.
The question is does this method of stitching look good enough to warrant the effort. After my initial Frankenstein-sized attempts, I think I've finally got the stitching down to a scale size. The tricky bit is how to make this work with the CDL silk. What I would have to do is just to apply the silk directly over the stitching as I dope the silk to the underlying fabric. That IS the only way. Believe me. The way it would look is the way it would look. No painting.
TFF, I don't think it would be possible to ''stitch silkspan'' since there has to be something solid, either the rib or a reinforcing tape, keeping ''left and right'' apart. I could use the usual modeler's trick cutting strips of ''threads on backing'' but that wouldn't give me the Z-stitch. But I suppose it might be better than nothing.