Register

If this is your first visit, please click the Sign Up now button to begin the process of creating your account so you can begin posting on our forums! The Sign Up process will only take up about a minute of two of your time.

Page 96 of 115 FirstFirst ... 46869495969798106 ... LastLast
Results 2,376 to 2,400 of 2863

  1. #2376
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    ORIGINAL: Mein Duff
    I imagine they had a solid bracing system for the Rhino horn... that's a lot of mass extending upward to vibrate.
    In some photos you can see a single brace running from the top water pipe to a collar on the bottom of the straight section of the stack. On yet other photos, there are dual braces going to the forward cabane struts. On my dummy the exhaust itself only weighs about 40g and the mounting is pretty sturdy. Plus of course, mine doesn't rattle with exhaust as the real would would have.

    One thing I still haven't worked out is how exactly I'll mount the dummy on the model. I'd like it to be removable.

  2. #2377
    Mein Duff's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    923
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    Think modular - removable all the time if possible......you never know when and if you will need to repair.. I have been anguishing for days about whether to screw or glue the plywood panels around the machine gun area on my SE5.
    Glueing would be very solid, but not removable..I may have to access the screws holding the strut bases in place which will be very difficult.
    I'm afraid I may regret it later.......
    Fleet Brotherhood #5
    Half A Wing, Three Engines and A Prayer

  3. #2378
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    *****

    I painted the exhaust with the metalizer enamel this morning over the gloss black (Rustoleum-like paint) and immediately it began to destroy the smooth finish! [:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@] This is the same combination of paints I tested just a couple of days ago...in fact, it's the same combination I tested just minutes before doing the exhaust! There's a week's worth of work down the drain.

  4. #2379
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    *****

  5. #2380
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    *****

  6. #2381
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    *****

    Copious amounts of lacquer thinner and a what-the-hell attitude later, the piece has been reduced back to the wood, putty, and epoxy stage. I suppose that's a step in the right direction.

    *****

    Some new carving and sanding and some fresh putty and it's almost back to where it was about three days ago. Unfortunately, there's just one day left before I head to the States. I would have liked to have finished this before leaving. Guess it doesn't really matter.

  7. #2382
    Mein Duff's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    923
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    Sorry to hear about the setbacks......s&#t happens......sounds like you're regrouping OK....
    Enjoy your trip home...or do you still call it home?
    Fleet Brotherhood #5
    Half A Wing, Three Engines and A Prayer

  8. #2383
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    ORIGINAL: Mein Duff
    ....s&#t happens...
    There's a town in the mountains of southern Oman called Shihit.


  9. #2384

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    3,822
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    At least you learned how to do crinkle paint.

  10. #2385
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    Here's what I think happened. On my test piece I brushed the metalizer on very sparingly. But when it came time to do the exhaust I "slopped" it on much more liberally to avoid brush strokes. But more paint = more solvents...and those solvents ate into the gloss black paint in a more extreme fashion than in my tests. It may also have been that the black paint hadn't cured as completely as on my test piece.

    It does make me wonder though about the fuel proof-ness of this black paint. The "lacquer thinner" (at least that's what it says in Japanese on the can) I applied immediately stripped off the metalizer, the underlying gloss black paint (rustoleum-like I'm assuming from the indications on the can), and the grey auto body primer, leaving only the wood and the two-part auto body putty. And yet, I did a nitro-fuel test last year and the black paint seemed to be impervious to it. Guess I need to test again.

    If the test fails I'll need to give the entire engine a coat of Nelson's clear. I'll also have to rethink which paints I'll use for the markings.

  11. #2386

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    3,822
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    Real lacquer thinner is one of the best paint strippers for un catalyzed enamel. Sometimes you can get away with it when the coats are thin enough that the solvents evaporate before they soak in.

  12. #2387
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    ORIGINAL: TFF
    Real lacquer thinner is one of the best paint strippers for un catalyzed enamel.
    What is un-catalyzed enamel? No doubt one of the reasons I hate painting is that I don't know very much about all the different kinds of paints and their compatibility. This is compounded by the fact that I'm trying to find the right kinds of paints in Japanese.

    Sometimes you can get away with it when the coats are thin enough that the solvents evaporate before they soak in.
    I think this is what I unwittingly did.

  13. #2388
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    I've got the exhaust back to the primered stage. Since tomorrow's my last day and there is some pre-travel business to attend to, this'll have to be where I leave things off until I return in September.

  14. #2389

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    RiminiRN, ITALY
    Posts
    269
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    Don
    I wish you have a nice flight and an happy landing in California.

  15. #2390
    Mein Duff's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    923
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    We should all chip in sometime on "do's and don'ts" of painting.... I have over 45 yrs experience with paints and graphic materials but the materials keep changing so rapidly. its constantly adapting to the new compounds.. being a chemist would help....but serious pre-testing is always the way to go...

    "Catalyzing" means to me that a hardening agent is included ( usually 2 part paint) to make it more impervious to aggressive thinners etc..

    I few basics that everybody should know..

    Water based paints are OK over enamel or oil based paints....but not the other way around !! ( orange peeling danger )

    You can get away sometimes with aggressive spray paints if you lightly "dust spray" the piece first and let dry in between coats...do this 2-3 times and you can get away with a heavier coat....( works most of the time but not always [&o])...

    I do know that lacquer thinners aren't as aggressive as they used to be...I'm surprised they are still legally sold in US...ozone eaters !!


    Fleet Brotherhood #5
    Half A Wing, Three Engines and A Prayer

  16. #2391
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    ORIGINAL: Mein Duff
    We should all chip in sometime on ''do's and don'ts'' of painting...
    Maybe I'll start a thread.

    ....but serious pre-testing is always the way to go...
    I thought I had learned this lesson...but what I learned this time is that you also can't change the procedure at ALL. My TWO test pieces (at two different times) both worked flawlessly, in fact, I was thrilled to find this great combination to use on future models.

    ''Catalyzing'' means to me that a hardening agent is included ( usually 2 part paint) to make it more impervious to aggressive thinners etc..
    I've never heard of catalyzing emamel paints...at least not the sort of hobby enamels we normally use.

    Water based paints are OK over enamel or oil based paints....but not the other way around !! ( orange peeling danger )
    That's a good point for starters. I've been wondering what my options are for a gloss black coat under the metalizer (which seems to be an enamel, I think). I'm afraid to try the same combination even with the dust spray technique.

    I do know that lacquer thinners aren't as aggressive as they used to be...I'm surprised they are still legally sold in US...ozone eaters !!
    What is the difference between lacquer thinners and "normal" paint thinner (as sold in hardware stores)? I noticed that the lacquer thinners are more expensive.

  17. #2392

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    3,822
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    Paint is all about chemistry. Mixing chemistry usually does not work. What is tough is the EPA has pretty much neutered everything anyway. Non VOC paint and no lead is what has driven the water borne and based paint. It use to be simple there was lacquer, enamel, urethane, and epoxy, and you could buy every color combo you ever wanted in each type; not now. To add to the mess is translation and usage of the words. The US calls stuff on its general chemistry lacquer is lacquer, enamel is enamel. From what I get, in Great Britain, they call all "paint" lacquer; as 100 years ago and back the only paint was lacquer. They also call catalyzed paint, 2 pack, as it comes in two bottles to the package, while will call it by its chemical like epoxy or urethane. Enamel as a paint, like we are talking about, was invented in the 30's by General Motors to speed up painting cars, as lacquer is labor intensive. It hardens not by eva. like lacquer but by oxygen reacts with it while solvents evap. The catalyzed paint is really improved chemistry enamel that uses chemical hardening instead of O2 or evap. You can get into what chemistry the pigments are made of too, for another level of complication. What it has come down too is we are starting to mix chemistries that were never suppose to see each other. Some are dangerous like the catalyzed stuff. You might complain about the smell of dope, but it wont kill you. When Imron came out in the late 70's modelers jumped on it as it was shiny and fuel proof. Painted without a good mask, the fog hardens in your lungs and they can not eject it. Do it enough and the build up suffocates you. To be simplistic, try not to mix types. http://www.guelphgremlins.com/chemicalcompat.html and other charts like it can help but are not 100% now days. All this is also assuming you want long life out of your work; if it only has to work for a short while it does not matter as much.

  18. #2393
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    That's a good overview...and one that fills me with dread.

  19. #2394

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Victoria, AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    120
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    A friend of mine just finished a P40-N based on the Nick Ziroli plans.
    I say based on as he actually built a plug for the fuselage from which a number of glass replicas have been cast and he did the wing as foam core.

    But I digress. He has finished it as recommended by David Law (the current Australian Scale Chapion and presidednt of the Victorian Scale Model Association).

    The Technique uses an Acrylic Automotive Primer, over which is sprayed enamel house paint (mixed to his prefered colours by the local hardware). This is then fuel proofed by a few coats of satin varnish (I will confirm the type for you all).

    Does it work? Yes it does. (And if my personal PC was not down at the moment for a rebuild after a Trojan Infection, I would post some photos).

    Cheers,

    Hugh

  20. #2395

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Kitchener, ON, CANADA
    Posts
    342
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    Hi Don,

    Wow!!! A lot has happened since I've been out of the loop for a couple of months. You've made great progress on your Albi. I'm very interested to see how your silk & tissue covering works out. I can see applications for german lozenge camo with this technique. I have used my printer to produce colour & shape accurate lozenge 'fabric' panels for the wings but had great difficulty preventing wrinkles when I applied it over the mylar/monocote? film on my Fokker D7 ARF. This winter I will likely strip it down and recover it properly to lighten up and refresh the model.
    What are your thoughts on producing printed lozenge this methos?
    That rhino radiator looks pretty neat - keep at it, we all really like the look of these unique 'protuberances'.
    My Morane Saulnier N build is back on now that I am clear/hapily recovered from some serious health issues with both my parents.

    Enjoy sunny California, keep in touch
    Bri

  21. #2396
    Mein Duff's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    923
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    TFF>>> Some great info. you posted.....very useful stuff..I printed out the color AMA sheet for reference...
    Thanks for posting
    Fleet Brotherhood #5
    Half A Wing, Three Engines and A Prayer

  22. #2397
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    ORIGINAL: Flying Fox
    A lot has happened since I've been out of the loop for a couple of months. You've made great progress on your Albi.
    I also dropped off of the scale modeling map for several months, beginning with a back injury in March that put me into the hospital for two weeks. But finally about a month or so ago, I got rolling again, first with some work on a 1/4 scale Strutter and then the CI. The progress boils down to three things: 1) switching over to wire TEs, 2) testing covering options, and 3) working on the dummy Benz.

    I'm very interested to see how your silk & tissue covering works out.
    Technically, I've abandoned the "silk and tissue" (which was actually "tissue THEN silk") approach for a couple of reasons. First, it didn't work well with the wire TE. Second, while it's "strong" it's not at all puncture resistance. The tip of a pencil goes right through it, with a loud pop. Instead I'm now planning to use Koverall as the basic covering and then apply very fine dyed Habotai silk essentially as the "color layer" instead of painting. I think this will produce a unique looking finish for the model.

    I can see applications for german lozenge camo with this technique. I have used my printer to produce colour & shape accurate lozenge 'fabric' panels for the wings but had great difficulty preventing wrinkles when I applied it over the mylar/monocote? film on my Fokker D7 ARF.
    The silk is very fine but it helps to be applying it over a sturdy undersurface. Were you printing the lozenge onto tissue? Bear in mind that the "old school technique" actually involves covering the airframe FIRST with tissue (and doping that) and THEN applying the silk over the already taut tissue using wallpaper paste.


  23. #2398

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Kitchener, ON, CANADA
    Posts
    342
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build


    Good to hear from you Don. Sounded pretty serious re your back injury - hope all is well now.

    ...while it's ''strong'' it's not at all puncture resistance. The tip of a pencil goes right through it, with a loud pop.
    Well this is no good at all then - I typically make it a habit of landing (if you can call it that) in the tall grasses of various sorts and the occasional tree that surrounds my field. It's usually bad enough without then having a stiff weed being able to puncture the delicate covering that one has worked so long and hard to produce.

    Plan B -
    ...use Koverall as the basic covering and then apply very fine dyed Habotai silk essentially as the ''color layer'' instead of painting.
    On a similar note then maybe lozenge printed silkspan over Koverall will work - I'll have to consider trying this combo.

    Right now I am focussing on the nose end of my Morane Saulnier N. I'll post some more photos a bit later tonight showing how all the formers fit together with the cowl and engine.

    Bri


  24. #2399
    abufletcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Zentsuji, JAPAN
    Posts
    14,401
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    That's how I feel about the "strength" of the tissue+silk method as well after my tests. You have to expect to be patching it up regularly. The Koverall, by comparison, is like a drum head and you'd have to exert some serious force to break through it. Some guys have joked that one advantage of Koverall is that when you crash your model, you'll already have a bag to carry the bits home in. And maybe if I always flew at a carefully manicured grass field, the tissue+silk would be fine. But my field is on the rough side.

    On a similar note then maybe lozenge printed silkspan over Koverall will work - I'll have to consider trying this combo.
    That might work. The challenge might be getting suitable densities for the lozenge colors. Matz has been kind enough to compare a sample of my "bamboo" Habotai silk directly with the CDL of an authentic Albatros and he says it's almost a 100% match. The problem is that the silk alone is far too transparent (and thin) to look realistic. But I'm hoping it will look good over the (white) Koverall.


  25. #2400

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Kitchener, ON, CANADA
    Posts
    342
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build

    Sounds like it will work! The silk is too thin and transparent and so needs a 'backing'. The Koverall is the sturdy backing, adding some needed opacity to the silk and also doubling as a handy crash bag if needed.
    As for suitable density of lozenge colours on the silkspan, I have already tested this and it seems good to me, especially from 10 ft back - no bias whatsoever on my part! I printed the lozenge pattern on silkspan with a file folder for backing. Colour density was fine and of course with a printer you can even tweak the colour values of the various 4 or 5 pattern lozenge to exactly what 'you' think is correct (... but we won't get into that heated topic here and now)

    On mine I even added in a fabric weave look to the printout although in retrospect I think I made the weave a little too strong. In any case it does work and I will try the method again when I recover my Fokker.

    Here are a few photos if you don't mind.

    Bri
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Xv63249.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	85.0 KB 
ID:	1790186   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Wu62334.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	85.5 KB 
ID:	1790187  


Page 96 of 115 FirstFirst ... 46869495969798106 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:28 PM.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.