NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

I have a Midwest Super Stearman that I bought a local shop. I am in the process of recovering the plane. I thought it would be a good idea to use the Zenoah G-26 to offset the tail weight. Have any of you guys done this on your Midwest biplane? I seems like a good idea to use useable weight instead of dead (lead) weight and a lighter engine.

I was also wondering where I could get aftermarket fiberglass parts for this plane. I've tried looking, but with no success. I need another cowl and wheel pants. I am also needing a copy of the manual. Is there anybody out there that can get me a copy of their manual?

I was really hoping you guys can post some photos of your Midwest Super Stearman. That would get me motivated to finish this project.

Thanks,

Bullseye

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

you can probably get new parts from fiberglass specialties.com.he is a great guy to work with

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

I agree with what 3DD said about the fiberglass parts. I have dealt with the guy there as well and its A+ service!
On your question about using the G-26 and usable weight verses dead weight, id say go for it!!! i did that on my Aeromaster.
I used to have a midwest stearman, im trying to locate the manual for you. I will let you know if i find it!
So far your plane looks GREAT!! lets see a finished project!!

Jon

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

Thanks guys, I hope you can find that manual Jon. I will send you a self addressed stamped envelope if you do find it.

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

That plane looks like a fun build. What colors are you going with?

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

Bullseye,

I purchased a used Midwest Super Stearman last year. Since then I ordered replacement cowl, dummy engine, wheel pants (none were fiberglass) and a manual from Midwest. Mine is powered by a Saito 180.. and has 12.5 ounces of lead attached to the motor mount. She's a sweet flyer, but that's a LOT of extra weight just to get her balanced!

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

i have an old issue of RC Report and Petit had to put a quite a bit of lead up front too.

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

I am thinking about going with this color scheme. I saw this plane and fell in love with it. I would like to try and recreate it. It looks so much different than any other biplane I have seen.

Hey tonystro,

Does this plane have any bad habits? Where exactly is it balanced? What is the overall weight of the plane? The cowl is butchered up from the previous owner, so that is why I need to get a new one. Is the cowl supposed to fit kind of snug around the fuselage? I am used to seeing cowls having a 1/8" to 1/4" clearance around the fuselage, but this one seems to fit really snug. Can you please post some picks of the cockpit. I am needing to buy the canopies (or is it windshield?) and the gauges for mine. I am hoping to have this thing covered in a few months. Any other pictures of your beautiful bird would be greatly appreciated. This will motivate me to get started soon!!!

Thanks,

Bullseye

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

Bullseye, You've chosen a beautiful example! The primary reason I bought mine was that it reminded me of a full-scale I saw at the first Airshow I attended... many, many years ago.

Mine has no 'bad' habits, allowing for the differences in flying a bipe versus a single wing model. For some the roll rate is probably slow, but it appears very "scale-like", as do the loops and stall turns. I love doing 'barrel rolls', wingovers and chandelles with it!! With throttle being advanced slowly, takeoff from our grass field is in about 70 feet, at just over 1/2 throttle (Saito 150, MA 14x8 K-series prop). I continue to throttle up, with shallow climb, and often perform an Immelman to 150+ feet. Cruise flight is at slightly less than 1/2 throttle and it definitely wants to descend at anything less. Some elevator is required when inverted.

I haven't performed an overall weight check, but believe it is about 10 - 11 pounds. My cowl has approximately 3/16 inch space, on sides and top with more along the bottom. I use Midwest's recommended control throws and CG location (1/2 inch behind bottom wing leading edge). You can get this information at http://www.midwestproducts.com/super_stearman.htm

The cockpits are not detailed in any way, and have simple windscreens in front of them.

I have attached a photo of Eddie Andrieni's highly modified E75 Super Stearman... just in case you want put a "canopy" on yours.:D

edited for mis-spelling

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

Tony, what's the proper way to do a "chandelle"?

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

mrbiggs,

Not sure I'm the one to provide the correct answer to 'proper way to do a Chandelle.'[:o] However, I have loved the maneuver ever since my Uncle took me through one back in my college and my pilot training days. It can look so good, or so bad! I found this description on an internet website:

On the FAA power commercial pilots test a Chandelle is defined as a maximum performance climbing turn through 180 degrees while maintaining a constant turn rate. This is a "plan ahead" maneuver. You first establish a medium bank depending on the performance of your aircraft. Then a smooth pullup is started. The angle of bank stays constant during the first 90 degrees of turn, while the pitch angle increases steadily. At the 90 degree point the plane has the maximum pitch angle which should be close to the critical angle of attack. During the second 90 degrees of turn, the pitch angle is held constant, while the bank angle is smoothly decreased to reach 0 degrees of bank at 180 degrees of turn with the airspeed close to the stall speed. The plane should not settle during the last part of the maneuver and the recovery. The decreasing bank angle during the second half of the Chandelle will maintain a constant turn rate together with the decreasing airspeed. The turn needs to be kept coordinated by applying the right amount of rudder. A Chandelle to the left is quite different than one to the right because of the ever increasing amount of p-factor in the second half of the maneuver.

With an rc aircraft I usually perform the intial back stick in conjunction with the initial roll input, much as you would starting a slow roll. Practice will help you find the correct bank angle and back stick input needed to give you the 'picture' you like best. Specifically with the Stearman I use approximately 40-45 degrees of bank and 'a little' back stick, as this seems to provide the best radius of turn compared to altitude gained for the 90 degrees of turn., ie., the best looking picture to my eyes. Then it is a matter to determining the 'proper' rate of roll out so as to be on a heading 180 degrees from entry when wings reach level. ByTheWay, judicious increase/decrease of 'top' rudder definitely assists in maintaining a smooth arch. I get maybe 1 in 5 that I think are OK.

edited to add: description for the Chandelle, and nearly all other aerobatic figures, are on the IAC website; http://www.iac.org/begin/figures.html

RE: NEED HELP FROM BIPLANE GUYS
 

Thanks. Nice link too.