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Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

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Old 08-15-2011, 05:39 PM
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modeleryang
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Default Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo



Just got a proboat coast guard boat, pretty good performance and nice looking. Tried out in a local pond, it turns out to be a really amazing boat, almost attract my wife into the hobby.

The only concern is that run time is really short for the family fun. Now the boat is running on two set of 7.4v 6cell NiCd battery, two 550 motor. Both ESC and motor is water cooled and after a few full throttle run, not hot at all.

Can this boat powerset take on 3S lipo? I have a plenty repository of 3S/6s lipo for boat, it became a big fun if it can share power with my heli power packs.
If the 3S lipo is considered as "too much", can I save the ESC by setting throttle say 80% of throw in order to avoid fried up.

Thank you for watching and sharing your ideas.


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Old 08-16-2011, 01:11 AM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

How are the two 6 cell packs wired? Series, parallel of one for each motor?
If in series, using a 3S pack will reduce voltage and thus performance.  If in parallel, the increase in voltage might lead to issues with the controller, as well as a possible shortening of motor life.  Performance would increase, but so would current consumption.  Run time would depend on how much more capacity the 3S has.
If the ESC instructions say Max volts 8,4, then any more is not advisable, even at part throttle.  PWM ESCs are either switched fully on or fully off - the circuits that drive the output transistors tend to be the limiting factor, and will overheat, usually cooking whatever is near them.
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:34 AM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

Easiest thing you can do is buy one or two more pairs of the 7.2 volt NiCad batteries. This way you don't change the balance and performance characteristics of the boat. If the motors are staying cool why not stay with the current system, you can always run till the batteries till they start to die and swap them out for a fully charged set and keep going. I have a NiCad charger that works from the 12V power socket in the car, my wife and I charge one set while the other is out in the boat. Run all day.

I recommend you buy the largest MaAHr rating you can find. You'll get longer run times.

Another thing to think about is if you change to Lipo batteries you'll need to change the motor Electronic Speed Control(s) for one that is Lipo aware so you don't damage the Lipo batteries. You can also get an independent Lipo battery cutoff, (one for each battery) that does the same thing. Then you have to find a place to mount them, wire them in, possibly rebalance the boat.

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Old 08-16-2011, 06:01 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

I checked the ESC is rated as 8 cell, 9.6v, slightly below 3 s 11.1v,
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:46 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

Quote:
ORIGINAL: modeleryang

I checked the ESC is rated as 8 cell, 9.6v, slightly below 3 s 11.1v,
More than enough of a difference to fry the 9.6V ESC I'll bet.

Buying a couple High Capacity, Eight Cell NiCads?

Will these fit? http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/show...ItemID=12489.5

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Old 09-12-2011, 02:47 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo


Quote:
ORIGINAL: modeleryangJust got a proboat coast guard boat, pretty good performance and nice looking. Tried out in a local pond, it turns out to be a really amazing boat, almost attract my wife into the hobby.

The only concern is that run time is really short for the family fun. Now the boat is running on two set of 7.4v 6cell NiCd battery, two 550 motor. Both ESC and motor is water cooled and after a few full throttle run, not hot at all.
Can this boat powerset take on 3S lipo? I have a plenty repository of 3S/6s lipo for boat, it became a big fun if it can share power with my heli power packs.
If the 3S lipo is considered as "too much", can I save the ESC by setting throttle say 80% of throw in order to avoid fried up.
Thank you for watching and sharing your ideas.

The suggestion made by Apismelifera is the easiest and least expensive route to extending your run times. Keep in mind the fasterand longer you run your boat, the more heat you will be generating.

A very handy tool to have for any RC power boater is a small temperature device you can use to determine the temps of your motors, batteries and ESC.

These boats are water cooled as is the speed control - this does not mean we don't have to monitor motor and accessory temps. If you were to run your boat at high speeds most of the time, I think you'd find your motors would be warm if not hot to touch. 100 degrees or moreforthese motors means maybe working them too hard.

There are several things you may want to consider doing to your boat as safe guards - First you should consider using wire ties to secure the water tubing to the top of the rudders. They have been known to come off - you don't want to find out how fast the water comes up those rudder tubes - it could result in damages to your electronics or worsethe boat could sink.

Next item is to consider is adding stiffeners to the underside of therear hatch cover - it is not stiff enough to provide a good seal. Once that is done, you can add some well placed foam weather stripping inside of the hatch cover to create a gasket to discourage water intrusion - these boats willkick a lot of water up there on sharp high speed turns.

Next, is the main cabin - sealing around the areas that come in contact with the water dam or lip around the opening will help reduce the amount of water that might come in at those points.
These cabins will sink if they fall off the boat. Strongly recommend you bond floatation foam to the inside ceiling of the cabin. They do come off on occasion - and it ischeap insurance - New hatches are $200+

These boats will sink if they fill up with water, so adding floatation foam in the bow and other areaswill insure it will stay afloat were it to get swamped. Adding foam is easy - pool noodles are cheap and can be cut to fit almost any rc boat. Sometry the foam that comes in a spray can - thatmay work if you know what you are doing. It can crack a hull if you put to much inside.

One last thing to share. I installed a automatic bilge pump in my MLBjust for peace of mind.
They sell for about $28 from Tower Hobbies and fit between the two motors like a pea in a pod!
I have included links to another forum that has a lot of information these verycool boats. Worth a few mins. to check them out. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=555889
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1075575

Oh, almost forgot. As you look at the picture showing inside the hull note the battery location. That is the best place I have found - both batteries in the center of the rear bunk between the two stringers, one on top of the other and held in place with velcro. I promise you the boat handles the best with them in that location.

If you look closely you can see the bilge pump sitting between the motors.

Boomer
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:09 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

fantastic setup, thank you very much for sharing.

I have put rubber sealing around the cabin to discourage water come in, it help but not much. I gonna try foam weather.

One more question, how do you keep cabin on the hull? just magnets cannot hold it strong enough, I am viewing clips of the coast guard boat self-righting hope that can be done in rc. that could eventually keep boat safe.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:10 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo


Quote:
ORIGINAL: modeleryang

fantastic setup, thank you very much for sharing.

I have put rubber sealing around the cabin to discourage water come in, it help but not much. I gonna try foamweather.

One more question, how do you keep cabin on the hull? just magnets cannot hold it strong enough, I am viewing clips of the coast guard boat self-rightinghope that can be done in rc. that could eventually keep boat safe.
The self-righting feature is something this scaled down versioncan not do! So,Isuggest wemove away from that idea and chat about things that are possible.

The easiest is to buy stronger magnets and replace the factory magnets.

There are a fewother ways to secure the cabin to the hull - one way is to introduce some type of mechanicallatching device to keep it firmly inplace. It can be as simple as using a large rubber band or bungy cord that is attached to the hull and hooks on to a hookyou mounted inside the hatch holding it place -Or youcan installinside the hull a rod that would be tall enough to reach through the hatch - it would be threaded at one end (the top) drill a small hole for the rod to go through - then put a nut on it to hold the hatch in place - I would install it in the center of upper deck (where the seats are)

One of my friends used a silicone material to forma gasket that is custom fit to the base of the hatch. He is on a trip this week, but when he gets back I can get him to take a few pictures of how his looks. Basically, he took a tube of silicone applied it (like toothpaste) around the groove the hatch base rests in - I think he may have use something like that plastic wrap (the kind you'd use to cover your left over's) he layed that over the entire area, then put the hatch in place pressing it down firmly until is set up (cures) once it is cured you lift if off and you have custom fit gasket that is tight enough to hold the hatch in place. I hope that makes sense - the silicone doesn't harden like cement - it should retain a certain rubber like texture but is bonded to the hull. If you are interested will find out what specific silicone he used - there are a bunch of different types.

Hope one of these will work for you.

Boomer

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Old 09-24-2011, 03:26 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

do you think we need paint inside to secure the wood structure from water?
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:14 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

The factory has applied a coating of some kind on the wood surfaces - It couldn't hurt to paint or varnish it - but to do proper job would require you to remove everything in inside the boat to enable you to spray the interior hull without getting paint on everything.

I brushedon amarine varnish to those areas I could get to- but at some point I may pull everything out and to it the right way. I don't think it is really necessary if you have done a good job of sealing those areas where water could get in.

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Old 09-25-2011, 05:13 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo

I was thinking to use wax - in this case your friend use silicone. 
I will probably do a nasty job, but if you can tell me the kind of silicone used, I will be trying at least for rear hatch first.

thanks for your input
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:59 PM
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Default RE: Question: proboat coast guard handle 3S lipo


Quote:
ORIGINAL: modeleryang

I was thinking to use wax - in this case your friend use silicone.
I will probably do a nasty job, but if you can tell me the kind of silicone used, I will be trying at least for rear hatch first.

thanks for your input

I will find out the type of silicone Monday. I will see if I can get youa picture or two as well.
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