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Scratch built Polish Tug "Klimek"

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Scratch built Polish Tug "Klimek"

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Old 09-05-2013, 04:26 PM
  #76  
wayne d
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Hey Bob
I am running 12v.
The two fuse leads are insulated, so even if they move around a little they won't touch anything. I'll put a little shrink wrap on the battery leads as soon as I get some.
Old 09-06-2013, 06:17 AM
  #77  
rblubaugh
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Wayne,

Must just be the photo, couldn't see the insulated leads.

BTW, my excitement about RCU having their problem fixed so that the email would bring you to the thread was short lived. This email brought me to page one of this forum so I had to wind my way to your thread entry!?! Keep working guys, you'll get it right one of these days.

Bob
Old 09-08-2013, 01:14 PM
  #78  
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Just a couple of thing finished up.
First the helm. I know the picture is not that good but its real simple. A wheel and a set of throttles.


Next up was the watertight doors, they are on both sides. I'm leaving the portholes open for airflow.

The duel fire bottles.


Life rings are next up to be painted and mounted. I also ordered the figures I want and a few goodies from Cornwall over in the UK.
Tires and bow bumpers are on the way from Harbor Models.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:23 PM
  #79  
wayne d
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Today I sat it in the my pool to check how it floats. To me it looks to be bow high. Held the stern and applied full power but I'm getting a little interference. I'm guessing from the motor. Servo is twitching and the ESC cuts in and out at full power. This only happens at wide open throttle. I ordered the capacitor set from Harbor Models so we will wait for that. At low throttle it works fine, no twitching or cut out on the ESC.
I have to say at full throttle its way over powered with the motor and prop combo. But I hardly ever run wide open anyhow.
I'll wait till I get it in the lake to determine if I need to set it deeper in the water.
Here is a few pictures.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:10 AM
  #80  
rblubaugh
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Wayne,

Only saw one photo showing the internal layout of the boat but it looks like you can move the battery forward to balance the boat. Balance point should be about 30% forward from the stern of the boat. I think you said this model was roughly 32 inches long so the balance point should be about 9 5/8 inches forward of the stern. Does the model settle pretty much on the waterline you painted on the boat according to the plans (don't remember seeing a waterline picture)?
Also, I came across a picture of another Klimek scale model and it was also bow up, according to the waterline. I'll try to post a picture if I can figure the 'new' RCU out.

Bob
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:13 AM
  #81  
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Oh, another note, you wouldn't use full power except possibly when you were towing barges or another boat, then the additional power would be needed.

Bob
Old 09-09-2013, 11:39 AM
  #82  
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Hey Bob
according to the plans I have she sits a little bow high anyway. I waited to paint the bottom color until she has been run and balance is worked out.
my plan was to run her in the lake and balance as needed, then fill the bathtub with water and baby powder to mark the waterline for me.
Your right about the power, but boy does she pull.
Old 09-12-2013, 11:50 AM
  #83  
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I have been plugging along with different things and have made some progress.
First I wanted to take a few good pictures so I took the Tug in the kitchen where the lighting is better.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:53 AM
  #84  
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A couple more.


The front and rear Bollards are brass tubing soldered together and the side bollards are plastic tubing.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:00 PM
  #85  
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Received the capacitor set and soldered them on. I only used one and that seems to have taken care of the interference problem with the servo but on full reverse the ESC cuts in and out. Not sure what the problem is. I doubt that I would ever use full reverse.
Old 09-12-2013, 12:04 PM
  #86  
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Mounted the tire bumpers on. Used a piece of 1/8x1/8 spruce and drilled a 1/16 hole to accept a cotter pin to hold the chain. Heated some brass tubing to make a hole for the tires and chain from Wal-Mart. I think it turned out reasonably well.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:09 PM
  #87  
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Gluing the rubber bumper on the bow right now with silicon. Also waiting on my figures from California and a anchor winch from the UK and then its about done. I'm thinking I might want to add some sort of lifeboat but not having much luck finding one.

I'm going to try and get to the lake a the next few days for a test run. Once that's done I can paint the bottom color on.
Old 09-12-2013, 12:46 PM
  #88  
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Wayne,

You do some really nice finish and detail work. Makes your model really stand out.

Bob
Old 09-12-2013, 03:11 PM
  #89  
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Thanks Bob,
that means a lot.
Old 09-13-2013, 12:05 PM
  #90  
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Hey Bob
have you ever used the rubber bumpers from harbor models?
If you have what do you use to glue it on. Silicon doesn't work.
Old 09-13-2013, 04:15 PM
  #91  
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My figures arrived today.
I made up a small tool box and mounted that to the deck and placed the deckhand kneeling in front of it.
Mounted the captain and a poster/picture in the rear of the wheelhouse.


Now I'm waiting on the anchor winch and a bell.
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Old 09-14-2013, 05:57 AM
  #92  
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Wayne,

No, I've not used the rubber bumpers, either tires or some woven ones I bought from England.

Liked you method of attaching the 'chain' for the tires, really neat and should hold up. The poster/picture on the wall of the pilot house is a nice touch, gives the tug some 'class'. Did you get two of the deck hands kneeling down? If so the second one could be by the anchor winch fixing it or working on the bell. Random thoughts, don't mean much.

BTW, you take some nice photos especially the close up of the captain in the pilot house,

Bob
Old 09-14-2013, 05:59 AM
  #93  
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Just one kneeling and one standing holding onto the side waving.
Old 09-15-2013, 08:23 AM
  #94  
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Ran the tug today and everything seemed fine except it seems to be riding low on the stern. I believe if I ever went to full power it would swamp the stern. I'm going to move the battery one bay forward and see if that helps.
At about a 1/4 throttle it runs great and looks good in the water though.
I took these pictures with my phone so they are not the greatest.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:24 AM
  #95  
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And a couple more.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:31 AM
  #96  
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Wayne,

She does look good out on the water. The last picture really shows how low the stern is riding. Comparing the picture of your boat and the one I posted in post number 80 I think you'll need to move the batteries forward far enough to bring the waterline up "almost" to the little "elbow", for lack of a better term, on the bow. That would compare to the 'other' model.

Bob
Old 09-16-2013, 08:23 AM
  #97  
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I agree Bob, I've moved the battery one bay forward and checked it in the pool. It now rides correct, or at least I think so.
I'll have to run it again to check it in a few days.
Old 09-16-2013, 09:31 AM
  #98  
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Looking forward to those trials Wayne.

Bob
Old 09-17-2013, 12:30 PM
  #99  
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Bottom painted.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:18 AM
  #100  
rblubaugh
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Wayne,

When you use the baby powder method of marking the water line do you put the boat in the water first, wait for everything to settle down, sprinkle powder on the water and then gently lift out the boat? How do you tape or mark off the waterline so you can apply the paint without rubbing off the powder?

Never used that method before but sounds interesting for smaller boats.

Bob

Last edited by rblubaugh; 09-18-2013 at 06:21 AM.


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