vett

My Feedback: (37)

Are there any reviews on the donzi by dumas that anybody knows about?

Haoleman

My Feedback: (3)

I haven't found any. What would you like to know? I am finishing one now.

Terry

4 Play Racing

My Feedback: (4)

I am finishing one right now as well. What questions do you have?

vett

My Feedback: (37)

I just wanted to see some reviews and pictures. What did you use for attaching the deck to the hull? I would like to use something else other than polyester resin because of the smell if I could.

4 Play Racing

My Feedback: (4)

Here is a picture of my almost complete Donzi Z65...

[link=http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gary_wormald/detail?.dir=/7dd1&.dnm=dd92.jpg&.src=ph]Donzi[/link]

4 Play Racing

My Feedback: (4)

Just so you know, I did take some liberties with the design, and changed a few features. The boat is powered by a pair of 12v dumas motors, however I also have a pair of 12v motors that are rated at 8000 rpm, which are double the dumas output. I am not looking to get on plain...just a scale look.

I joined the hull with thick CA rather than resin. It joined just fine and I used 5 min epoxy for a permanent seal.

vett

My Feedback: (37)

Thanks for the info I like to use ca also it's just that dumas say's it dosn't work well with there hulls and I can't see why not. I also am going to use twin electrics rated at 12,000 rpm at 12v. do you have any pictures?

4 Play Racing

My Feedback: (4)

I do...I'll post some more shortly.

vett

My Feedback: (37)

picture looks good. I have a question. What is the measurment from the rear of the cabin like where the window is to the center of the fiberglass part of the transom? If I put my for deck on so the ply deck is even with the bow and I put the cabin sides with the notch in place it seems like I would have to cut the rear part of the cabin sides to fit in the hull. I hope you understand what I am saying.
Thanks, fred

4 Play Racing

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, you will need to cut the cabin sides down to get them to fit properly. When you have the foredeck in place and the notches in place, the cabin sides will probably overlap the transom slightly. You will need to trim to get them to fit properly. On mine, the distance from the rear of the cockpit to the transom measures 9.5", however this measurement is to the inside of the cockpit at the transom. In other words, with the inside trim in place. The measurement from the trim to the hull at the transom is another .25" or so, or whatever the plans say.

I have added a few more pictures to the link above. I will take some of the motor mounting as well. Enjoy.

vett

My Feedback: (37)

OK thanks for the info.

Haoleman

My Feedback: (3)

4 Play. I have a question for you. I am doing primer on my hull and cabin right now. Used epoxy glass for the deck and will plank deck the fishing deck with a product I found at micro mark using 3/16 decking. Be sure to check it out. It comes with the caulking already in place.
Did you use the dowels for the tuna tower or did you construct them out of tubing?

One thing to pass along on the construction to any future builders. When putting the wedges along the sides, be absolutely sure that you don't install them with any pressure as it will widen the hull and put it out of fair. It will also push the inner sides together making your cabin structure almost impossible to install. This is step #13 on the instruction sheet. If you don't heed thisyou will be doing a lot of this[:@][:@][>:][][:@]

4 Play Racing

My Feedback: (4)

yes, I used the dowels...kind of a pain in the a** to get the whole thing to come together.

vett

My Feedback: (37)

I just thought those that are interested would like to see my donzi's progress. I have added a couple of other cabinets as per the donzi literature I have. and will be planking the deck and rear cabin. the plans and instructions leave alot to be desired. Now for the dreaded glassing.

4 Play Racing

My Feedback: (4)

Vett, super job! Looks really nice. Also looks like everything is straight and true...not easy to do with this model. I am adding a cabinet under the window as well, similar to yours. I have all the connections for the batteries (RX and engines) and switches located there. The idea is to minimize the amount of removing the cabin.

vett

My Feedback: (37)

Yeah removing the cabin. Mine is a little tight so I will sand the bottom of it so when I paint it will be OK. Just did the railings last night, the palns don't give you to much, you really have to search around.

vett

My Feedback: (37)

a couple of more pictures it's getting there.

stevblutu15

very very nice work there vett

4 Play Racing

My Feedback: (4)

Super job....the natural wood adds a nice touch. How did you get the railings so straight?

vett

My Feedback: (37)

it was really easy I used stanchons from an old robbe kit. the cabin back is mahogany and the deck is stained balsa that has been hardened.

2003merc

My Feedback: (1)

You guys make me want to get back at my boat ASAP!! I've been working on a Donzi for about 2 years now off and on. After seeing some of these great boats I'll have to finish her. MORE PICS PLEASE!!! Thanks, MERC.

vett

My Feedback: (37)

Almost there just have to paint the tuna tower and finish putting the fabric on the seats. I think I will be selling on ebay as it is not my kind of boat and did not come out perfect, I am crazy that way.

Haoleman

My Feedback: (3)

What did you use for the railings? Brass, stainless?

Terry

vett

My Feedback: (37)

the rear railings are brass rod and the stanchons are from an old robbe kit. the front ones are from the kits rods

vett

My Feedback: (37)

Ok it's all done you can see other pictures here http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...954327173&rd=1