dauntlessfan

Deep Sky do you have the two big sheets/blueprints that Dumas included with the kit that have dimensions for the doors, etc?

Rich those videos are absolutely awesome! Thanks for doing that.

Bill speaking of cabin doors, what did you do to so nicely highlight yours? Is that mahogany strips you used?

deep sky

yes i do but i want to cut  the cabin door so i can later add int

deep sky

i just looked at my prints there only about 1/2 size and they dont show a cabin door for main cabin

dauntlessfan

Aaah, sorry I misunderstood, I thought you were talking about the port and starboard doors to enter the center deck/wheelhouse area. You are correct, the Dumas plans don't include the passageway to the right of the helm leading down into the main cabin.

I made mine about inline with and the same width as the passage to the owner's stateroom on the other side (which Dumas did include with their plans). The S&S plans show these two to be about the same width. My boat is semi-scale or sort-of-accurate, so I'm not sure how exact you are wanting to get on your dimensions. Rich is the man for exact measurements for sure.

deep sky

thanks im allmost ready fo primer so i thought i better cut hole for cabin doors

Sound Sailor

The plan also shows what they call a hatch on the deck forward of the wind shield. That is not a hatch but a receptacle for the sliding hatch cover over the door you are asking about to slide into. Otherwise there is not enough room for the sliding hatch to go forward. That part shown should butt up against the windshield and have an opening for the slider to go through the windshield and into it.. It does not open .


DF, yes I outlined the small doors with mahogany strips. I did this because I was not going to make them operational and so it would be difficult to show there were doors there other than possibly making some scoring marks. While not really correct it does make them stand out and be noticed. I didnt make any of my doors operational since I didn't find it necessary without finishing the interior and also that it weakens the structural integrityof the cabins. I did make the forward sliding hatch on the owners cabin operational and have hidden the switch for the radarunder it.

Bill

Rich404

Her keel was laid March 23rd 1947...which would have made her 65 years old. It would still be another year before she would be launched.

I learned this from Don Marshall whotold me that the keel was laid on his birthday.

-Rich.

Rich404

She came such a long way in such little time!! This proves that all these little details really do make a difference...She looks like a full sized vessel in some of those pics...Truly spectacular!

I love the way your boat looks!

-Rich.

Rich404

Hi Deepsky,

Dauntlessfan is correct....The main cabin (Salon) door should be directly across from the owners cabin door. Even though Dumas Doesn't tell you much about the owner's cabin door placement there is a mark where to put the hatch details which you can use as a marker.

The helm was directly across from the center windshield and it was also the width of the windshield. The door will be right next to the helm. In scale the door opening should be 1 1/2" wide.

Take the time to read the whole forum..It sounds like a lot but it is a fast read and it will really educate you on this yacht. I posted so much stuff and answered all these questions when I was working on that stuff. I even posted a picture of the bridge of the full sized Dauntless's helm and door so all the details and answers are here. Reading the forum is the best way to get up to speed and will arm you with the wisdom to truly make a great boat.

-Rich.

Apismelifera

Gel cell problem. Sounds like some but not all of the plates in one of the cells has a high resistance connection. The plate or plates with a good connection carry all the load till they discharge, and the terminal voltage drops off. Once you wait for a while that cell has a chance to equalize. The charge from the plates with the high resistance connection has a chance to trickle into the good plates, and the battery appears to recover.

The problem battery... What voltage? What is the Apere Hour rating?

Sound Sailor

John, Problem is there are 2 of them, 1for each motor, and both seem to go flat at same time. They are 12volt 5ah emergency light cells from Home Cheapo.

Bill

Rich404

Hi Bill,

I agree with John, the batteries are the problem. A pair of 12V NIMH batteries are the best way to go...Those batteries are having a tough time keeping up with your stuff..

-Rich.

deep sky

hi agin thanks agin for the imfo i have a question i looked at all my plans and i cant seem to find the location of where to drill for the shafts all the plans say is that they are to be 2 1/2 1nches apart i have looked at about 60 pages here but i cant seem to find any specks is there a set number of inches from the stern and the keel

Rich404

Hi Deepsky,

A good way to do it is look at the dumas instructions and install the struts exactly where they tell you to put them. Then, once the struts are in place slide the prop shaft through the strut and see where it comes to the bottom of the hull and mark it with a magic marker or pencil. Then remove the shaft and drill a hole through the hull on the same angle as the shaft and make sure the hole is big enough to install your stuffing box.

After the holes are drilled push the shaft through the struts again and put the stuffing tube in place and make sure everything lines up correctly and adjust as needed to make sure that there is no binding. The shafts should turn freely when fitted in the stuffing box. Once you have it fit nicely epoxy the stuffing tubes in place, sand as needed and it should be all set.

I'm not sure where you are with the build but make sure the hull is glassed and sanded before starting this step.

WOW GUYS...WE ARE NOW ON PAGE 100...

-Rich.

deep sky

thanks but the problem is my plans dont even tell you what the mesurements for the struts are and my plans are not full size they are about 1/2 size there is a pix of where they go but with no mesurements  why dumas doesent give full size plans i dont know thanks for the advice im not to this stage yet i do still have to glass the hull i am still working on finishing the bottom

Sound Sailor

The plans give you the size and location of the rudder blocks and the strut doublers. (the doubler butts againt frame 10)The shafts and rudders are 2 1/2 off the centerline. The back of the strut (if you use Dumas)is 2 3/8 from the rudder post . The stut base is centered inboard of the shaft centerline because of the angle of the V bottom. The location of the shaft hole can be done as Rich suggestedafter you decide whose strut you are using. I personally woud get the strut and do the mounting holes before glassing soI could then re drill them from the inside later but I suppose you could do that from the inside later by placing them upsidedown on the blocks and marking and drilling the holes.
Knowing the centerline, the offset, and the back edge location of the strut you should be in business.

Bill

deep sky

many thanks your right ill drill and fit shafts and rudders before i glass

Apismelifera

Sounds like the battery has too much internal resistance and just can't discharge quickly enough to maintain output voltage. If you stick with lead acid batteries than try Power Star. I have had good results with them. And they are AGM batteries and a such will be able to discharge at a higher rate than a Gel battery.

http://www.powerstarsla.com/rbc21.html

Other wise I like Nicads in boats. When they start to run out of power the output voltage slowly drops off and I know its time to bring the boat in. I have tried Nimh and they have good run time but the output voltage drops off so fast at the end that you get very little warning before the boat stops. Been caught out too far when that happened once. A local kyacker retrieved it for me.

Sound Sailor

Thanks for the info John. I'll have to decide what I'll do when the finances have recovered from my last purchase.

Well I always said i was going for good representation not true scale. I'm satisfied.


Bill

Hydro Junkie

But Bill, you're not done. You haven't installed a jackstaff on the bow yet

leebart121

I think that it would look even better if you placed a spray rail on the front like in the photo of Dauntless.
That would make the spray be directed back down towards the water and would look more relistic. As is the spray looks more like a sheet of water coming off the bow in my opinion.
It looks great and I love the work you have done to it Bill

Sound Sailor

Actually there is a spray rail there as in the real one and that is what causes that sheet of water. It just is different dynamics with the amount of water being displaced being much lighter with the model.
Thanks for the comments they are much appreciated.

Bill

dauntlessfan

Tonight I finally found something to model the big chrome domed compass found centered at the helm in a picture Rich shared way back in post #1376... now on to that little ashtray sitting on the left .

.

Rich404

-Rich.

Sound Sailor

DF,looking good! Rich and I have been trying to figure out what everything was on the Big D. My feeling is that those plungers below the wheel on both sides were to engage or disengage the motors from the transmission.Notice you only have 1 shift lever and throttlw for each side.

Rich enough about how you are going to make em- get on it!

What do you think of this addition I was working on when you rang?

Bill