rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Bill,
Yes, I knew what a toe kick was but couldn't really see it in the picture. Copied the pictured to word, pasted it to an 8.5" x 11" and put it on 200% view and THEN it was visible. Guess I'd better get new glasses or do the same on questionable pictures in the future.

Bob

Rich404

Hi Bill,

Thanksfortaking the lead on the toe rail detail!If you ever decide to remove the red stripe and it takes paint with it, it may be a good excuse to paint her Royal Blue...

It was a pleasure meeting up with you yesterday...Hopefully all that info keeps you busy for a while.

-Rich.

Sound Sailor

Well it's been a busy 24 hours. Burned the midnight candle, read most of a book, went over tons of photos and documents , added toerails, and got rid of a red stripe. Finally here's a start photo along with today for your viewing pleasure.

Bill

Rich404

Wowshe came such a long way in such a little amount of time....She is definitely a Dauntless poster child!!

-Rich.

deep sky

hi i made more headway. i have been looking at the pix here and reading as a guide does this look better

Rich404

Hi deepsky,

you are off to a good start...You seem to be the second personto successfully round off the corners.

Now have you considered the width of the bridgeshelter? Dumas set up a trap that pushes builders to make the shelter too wide. I corrected this on page 31. here is the link to that.. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_46...31/key_/tm.htm


-Rich

deep sky

hi i hadent thought about that oops

deep sky

just wondering i read your poast did you narow the bridge by 1/2 on each side or 1/2 total

Sound Sailor

Rich's original post.
"This weekend, I am going to begin revisions on the bridgedeck area. The walls on the port, starboard and aft will be significantly widened, and the port and starboard bridgeshelter sides will be carefully cut and removed and be reset about 1/2" on each sidemaking the shelter more narrow. The bridge deck side outer walls and gates will be shaped to match the deckhouse so that the entire side is uniform. "

Bill

deep sky

sorry i must have missed that

Rich404

This is correct, it must come in 1/2" on each side.

This is a two step process.

1) study my boat and build the inside of the bridge by 1/2" on each side. The easy way is to take (4) 1/2" thickblocks of wood the length of the bridge and put it inside the bridge deck on both sides minus the area to the gate. This will give the right thickness of the bridge sides 'as if' you had the opening storage doors.
2) once the bridge thickness is readjusted then cut the shelter exactly how I did and move it in by 1/2" on each side. Glue the shelter side on the edge of the wood block and sand & resin. Then it will be ready for paint.

-Rich.

deep sky

thanks

dauntlessfan

Deep Sky your build is coming along nicely and the curved bridge deck looks very nice. Well done!

All - I am having trouble mounting my Johnson 700's so I am redesigning my drivetrain...

I have decided to instead just mount an old trolling motor to the transom of my Dauntless (pictured). I'm not sure how I'll steer it, probably with pulleys, twine, and some sail servos? Or maybe I could epoxy some larger wood planks to the existing rudders?

Then I will hook the trolling motor to an old 120VAC wall switch and use a servo to flip the switch to turn the trolling motor "on" and "off".

I am out of hobby wire, so I'm using some old jumper cables to wire everything up. Hopefully it won't look to bad or be too heavy.

Speaking of heavy I found an old tractor battery that may fit my Dauntless to power all this. Just need to ask the neighbors why they are throwing it away first.

Oh and one more thing, it is 04/01... which i believe is a holiday of some sort?

Sound Sailor

DF, To quote Larry the cable guy, Now that right there is funny..........I don't care who you are.

Bill

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Deep Sky,

Try here for another 700 motor http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-VDC-MOTOR...item3a4983e292

Bob

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Rich,

Help my pea brain understand your layout lines for the modification to the Bridge Shelter? What is the point of reference? Is it the aft edge of the Bridge (?) shelter, then perpendicular forward using a flexible straight edge? Or is it perpendicular from the Cockpit (?) roof the aft? Or thirdly, something else so simple I didn't think of it?

Bob

Rich404

Hi Bob,

My time for the forum is unfortunately getting more limited by the day.

The answers are in the forum. Please see the shelter rounding post starting on page 7 and then page 31 where the side walls were adjusted and the shelter moved inwards. Thereis enough pictures and conversation to helpmost understand how and why the changes were made.

thanks.

-Rich.

Sound Sailor

On the other hand when you have too much time..............


Bill

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Bill,

When you decide to narrow your Bridge Shelter, let me know the beginning point of reference. I've re-read the indicated forum section and looked at the pictures three times now and I have totally missed where Rich starts with marking for the 1/2" reduction. Of course, I really don't have to do it, but I think it would look good when I eventually got my Dauntless fixed up.

Bob

Rich404

Sound Sailor

Bob, I think some confusion is from the fact that Rich had previously rounded the bridge cornerbefore he decided to narrow it at a later time. It makes it hard to figure looking at an "as built" and his photos of the cut marking. I don't know how he chose where to remove the 1/2". Looking at the photos only, I would have made it more inboard by the vertical post since the resulting parts would appear to match up better. Again just going by thephotos. I guess if I were to do it on an as built in one step I would start by taking the 1/2" out first starting at that point and then when reattaching I would do the rounding. It's like chopping the roof on a hot rod. The first decision is where can I remove the material where it requires the least filling or bending when I reattach it, in my opinion.
Not to say it will never happen but I don't plan on making the change on my boat. There is a lot of additional work involved such as doing a 1/2 " widening of all the cockpit walls, trimming, etc. It is concievable, depending on the original build, there even may need to be some modification of the top to accommodate the curve. It is one of those mods that is much easier to do on the initial build.
Don't know if I've helped or not.

Bill

Addendum: I see Rich posted while I was typing. The fact he had to move the side forward was to make up for the cut taking out an angle. That is why I suggested that, personally, I would have made the cut a little more inboard. Easy to armchair quarterback afterwards. Also looking back at page 7, I see he did have to modify the roof for the curve since, as built, there is a staight angle from the forward edgeby the window post to the side.

Addendum2: I have been looking at my boat and thinking how I would do it in one step. I fully understand that Rich put a lot of work into rounding his first and wanted to save that work. Starting from scratch however I would cut the side piece loose as a whole leaving the roof intact until the next step. Put the 1/2' filler on the sides to the forward cabin roof and cut the 1/2 " off the roof starting at the outside edge in towards the center. Move the side piece back in its same forward aft relationship. Now do the curve mod and i believe there would be enough of the roof left without having to build it up. Think it would work Rich?

Rich404

Hi Bill,

There is no easy way to reshape the shelter. Even during an initial build a lot of work needs to be done because the materials provided by Dumas takes the shelter in an entirely diferent direction. The shelter sides seem to be the only keeper as far as the provided material goes but it too needs new window supports. I would suggest building a shelter from scratch but the person needs to be an experienced builder to pull it off.

Remember guys, along with the immense amount of epoxy, cutting the roof to decrease the width, I even had to cut the roof off the shelter justso that I could reshape the inner corners sothat it would accept the corner windows. Then I had to trim off the back of the shelter because the roof was too long, add supports, fill and shape it.

Is all of this added work really worth the effort?

A scratch built shelter will eliminate the rounds of surgery that needs to be done to Dumas's shelter.

-Rich.

Sound Sailor

Rich I tend to agree it would be just as easy to domost of it from scratch. Here is what I was rambling about. Cutting the bridge side loose and taking a 1/2" off the roof, moving the side in leaves enough of the roof to reshape the rooffor the curve.

Bill

Rich404

Hi Bill,

Yes I agree that would definitely work.

One more thing left unmentioned is the 1/2" wide side wall. When I was putting in the wall I followed the contour of the main cabin roofline which made it grade upwards as it moved in. This needs to be considered too otherwise the shelter will not fit properly when it is reattached. Looking back there were so manysteps that went into each action. God blessthe builder that decide to tinker with the shelter...

-Rich.

Sound Sailor

Yep Rich as i said it's not just changing the bridge but the cockpit walls also. Thats why I don't see myself doing it. Now if the boat was not yet able to be run it might be a different story. For now the to do list consists of the davit and a bow light and maybe a sound system..
BTW I got the new batteries.

Bill