Rich404

Hi captains,

Here are a couple engineroom pics and a pump with the plug hooked up. It works and it really blasts water!!

-Rich.

guapoman2000

Rich,

How did you connect that water pump?

I am trying to do the same, except I am trying to activate the pump when the boat is already on water and not when I connect the drive batteries.





I just bought this pump at an eBay vendor!

Rich404

Hi Carlos,

It is not installed yet. I ran tests last night to ensure that it will work first using 2 cups of water.

The pumps will be placed in line with the underwater pickups so that it will prime easily. Being that the pump is long and low it will sit below the waterline which should help with priming. I still have to make up basswood supports and epoxy the unit in place.

On the electric end as you can see it is hooked up and the wire I left very long so that I can run it from the pump all the way to the power distribution panel under the salon floor midship. In the engineroom, there will be the switch on the line with a servo so that I can turn it on or off remotely. This way it will be off and when I am sailing it, I can turn it on for a couple of minutes and then turn it off again toconserve energy. The water exhaustpipes arehigh up on the transom so it will be obvious when the pumps are on.

I run this boatusing 3 LIPOS. One is for the port motor and esc, other is for the stbd motor & esc. Then there is a dedicated LIPO for the power distribution panel that has different output voltagesthat powers everything else including the pumps.

I have very limited time each week to work on the boat so it will take me a little bit of time to get it installed. Pics will follow once I have them in.

I hope this answers your question.

-Rich.

guapoman2000

Rich,

Thanks so much for your reply and yes it help!

Carlos

deep sky

well i did a little more work on the canapy starting to work on the inside of the bridgedeck getting ready for primer

Rich404

Hi Deepsky,

It's looking good. Being that you are doing such a good job, here is a tip that may help you. I noticed that you followed Dumas when placing the bridgedeck floor. Their placement of the bridge floor is not scale if you plan on doing any extensive detailing. If you were to put a scale figure in place right now the side walls would seem to be at least 5' high whereas on the full sized boat it was only 3' high. This translates to 2 1/4" high in scale. You have three options, 1) cut and raise the floor. 2) leave the floor and put some wood beams and another floor over it. This could potentially work well if you were to have a removablefloor hatchand have some batteries tucked away in that space for possible lighting. Or 3) leave it as is.

This is just some food for thought.

Hi captains,

I won't be able to touch the boat for the next few days but I plan on doing a late-nighter on Saturday evening which should allow me to finish and install both pumps. My goal is to test the boat withboth pumps on Sunday.

-Rich.

dauntlessfan

Yeah DS and those side walls in real life are much thicker than Dumas plans calls for. See Rich's boat for details on that as well. Now's the perfect time if you want to make these adjustments for realism.

deep sky

thanks for the tip ill raise the floor as i was planing on planking it anyway.i like the idea of a false floor for battarys or whatever.

deep sky

i was looking at my little man he is 4 1/2 tall with the deck raised he stands about right if i remember right that is close to scale .well back to work

deep sky

i raised the deck and started the side walls and cut out the side cabin doors

dauntlessfan

My gosh DeepSky, you don't mess around! Looks great. Wow, how do you find the time?

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Deepsky,

Now I have a question.   Since the deck does not 'look' removable, are you going to use the "wasted space" under the new deck for batteries or something else by accessing it from the bottom or is the deck going to have a top hatch?  I kind of expect you to plank this deck like you did the aft deck.  You do nice work.

Bob

deep sky

im going to plank and make a hatch

deep sky

sand sand sand allmost ready to prime

dauntlessfan

I met the local r/c club guys at the pond today with my Dauntless. Got her in the water and went wide for a full speed pass. Gently brought the boat up to full throttle and about three seconds later... the boat stops dead in the water. You guessed it - pop goes the speed control! It wasn't hot, it had only been in the water maybe two minutes. I tried to reset it but I'm pretty sure it's toast. Oh well, I knew I was asking too much of it anyway. Now I have to dig around the garage for some stuff to sell on FeeBay and get enough cash for TWO heavy duty ESCs before I can take Daunty out again.

So instead I spent some time skippering my $5 thrift store rescue: A Radio Shack Gamma Ray. After removing some unnecessary weight and installing a fresh battery pack, this little boat actually perfromed admirably alongside the other small speedboats on the water. Nice run time too!

Rich404

Awe sugar...that's horrible news...sorry to hear about your speedo...Yep it's time to cut loose some of the ol' unused stuff on e-bay...If at all possible I recommend a pair of Astroflight 208D's. They have proven to be trouble free in both the Dauntless and the Brooklyn. Those are the quality goods.

-Rich.

Rich404

Late tonight I plan on gettin' crackin' on the Dauntless. Goin' to be workin' on the waterpumps.

-Rich.

deep sky

hi captains i was looking at a pix of the real dauntless and looking at mine and i put the bridgedeck  outer doors to far forward by 1 and  1/2 inches i dont know why i missed it when i was first looking at the real pix for some reason i thought the doors were closed i have a lot of work in them im not shure what to do leave them or start over and recut them

deep sky

after looking at some of your boats my seems almost the same what do you captains think should i move the doors back or leave them as they are

dauntlessfan

It comes down to personal taste really, DS.

If it were my boat I'd leave it... mostly just because I wouldn't want to redo all that work and IMHO it's a minor detail that nobody off the street would even consider to be a flaw or inaccuracy. They'd just think it's cool that you added doors!

Then again, your boat is already more accurate than mine in many areas, and you seem to create in one day what it'd take me a month to complete. So if you have the time and it's going to bother you every time you look at the boat, definately adjust the doors now in this stage of the build.

deep sky

i think ill leave it i can allways change it later if it starts buging me

Rich404

Hey DS I think it's fine.

So I spent last night hooking up the water pumps. The only part I didn't get to was wiring in the servo & the switch. But to see how they worked I wired them straight to the panel. Then, today I went and created the box with the servo & switch in place. I ran out of time on that because it was late in the day so I figured I would run the boat with the pumps direct just to see how they performed.

Let me tell you guys.....the pump idea was a good one. Within a few seconds on the water the pumps blew heavy streams of water out the stern. This was exactly what I had imagined. So I pushed the envelope here and ran the boat for about 1/2 hour with the pumps going and a high speed run to see if there was a change in motor temps.

Toward the end of the run one alarm went off as usual but I noticed that the stbd pump was slowing down...I brought the boat back in when the pwr dst panel shut down along with both pumps. The timing was perfect because I could have easily gone swimming butI thought 'this can't be good. I removed the cabins and OMG smoke poured out of the stbd pump and it smelled like burnt wires in the boat. This was a fire scare to be sure..

Long short of it, the stbd pump is shot and thewires going to the pwr dst panel was badly melted together...this is not good. It seemed that only the stbd pump was affected this, the port pump seems fine.


The pwr dst panel blew a fuse in the end which was the saving grace. I replaced the fuse and the panel came back to life. So now I want to entertain other pumps and thicker guage wiring too.

At least when I go to hook up the next set of pumps the switch & servo will be ready for installation.

Onefinal thought, I am going to remove the underwater scoops. They create a lot of drag and they don't work.

I'm on the right track but back to the drawing board.

-Rich.

deep sky

thanks i think i will o can you tell me what page the helm chairs are on and do they give the mesurements to build them

dauntlessfan

DS - Rich's helm chairs are pictured on post #2497; 2589; mine on #3102 where my chairs aren't as nice as Rich's but the frames, legs and footrests were designed using pics of the real boat as a reference.

Rich - the water shooting out the back sounds like an awesome feature for sure, any pics? Sorry the pump burned up, but glad the boat did not! So I guess now we know windshield washer pumps aren't the best for continuous motor cooling duty? Do you have another kind of pump in mind? Dang there are hundreds of them online. A few I thought were interesting are pasted below. I didn't look at the flow rates, though, which would be important for sure.

deep sky

thanks i started building the hatch cover frames i found i needed to raise it 1/4 in now when the frameing is done i can plank it i cant wait to paint the cockpit area it looks ugly now o well back to work