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the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Old 08-09-2009, 10:51 PM
  #1001  
joe31hat
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Rich,

As I mentioned in one of the post, I'm using Astroflight 25's. You said good choice. Why? Sounds like a dumb ? but is it because of there RPM or torque or ???

Joe
Old 08-10-2009, 09:48 AM
  #1002  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hi Joe,

Here is the long winded version of: “Good choice!â€

“I am a huge fan†of Astroflight motors for larger performance oriented scale boats such as Dauntless. These motors produce good speeds without going “overboard.†Meaning, your boat will still go fast, but not fast enough to look like a toy. They are also very powerful which is ideal for larger & heavier boats like Dauntless that need to get on plane in a hurry. This is due to their minimal loss under load along with their power output to weight ratio. For the amount of power they produce, they are more efficient than many of the cheap motors on the market that produce the same no load RPM’s. This also keeps the AMPS down thus reserving some much needed battery power for those big motors. But keep in mind; these motors still have an appetite for battery power.

Astroflight has a great reputation for using quality materials in their products; they also implement very good quality control, so it is no surprise the motors are also well known for their reliability.

Although Astroflight discontinued making the brushed version of the 25’s and 40’s, they still make replacement brushes, etc for them so there is no need to toss them out like most other brands when the brushes become worn over time. They will also service any of their motors upon request regardless of age. It is difficult to find that kind of service with most motor manufacturers these days. I find this unique, because being that we live in a disposable society, their motors are designed not to be disposable, so the longer you own them, the more they pay for themselves, discontinued or otherwise.

And if it means anything these days, they are “Made in the U.S.A†(Southern California) and not subcontracted off to China like everything else we see.

A while back I helped a guy on RCUniverse to obtain information about Astroflight motors. He was located in the Middle East and he wanted to learn more about the motors in a boat he was restoring for someone. One of the questions was on voltage the motors required to test the motors. The model number was different than the models seen today and the styling suggested they were pretty old. I called Astroflight on his behalf to learn that his motors were over 20 year’s old and discontinued a long time ago. They stated that you could still order parts for them or they can service them if requested. Low and behold, once I relayed the info back to the guy & he attached them to a 12V battery. The motors started right up and ran beautifully. This is just an example of the commitment Astroflight has toward its product as well as the longevity of the product.


**I am not affiliated with Astroflight in any way shape or form. I am just stating my personal opinions and experiences with a company that I had positive experiences with.

-Rich.
Old 08-10-2009, 10:28 AM
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

thanks again Rich,

I have the opportunity to pick up a pair for a $100.00 bucks. I don't need them now but, well you know the rest.

So thanks again

Joe
Old 08-10-2009, 11:02 AM
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless


Anytime Joe!

$100 is a great score for a pair of Astro 25's or 40's.

Needed or not, opportunities like that are always tempting!

-Rich.
Old 08-10-2009, 11:49 AM
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hi Captains,

A History Tid-Bit..

I want to mention this before I continue painting. The boat looks rather good in all white with the red waterline. A black boot stripe would set her off quite well.

In the 1980’s, the full sized Dauntless was given that color scheme for a time while she was in St. Croix. She was painted all white, with red waterline broken by a black boot stripe.

Later, she sported a turquoise waterline with a black boot stripe, with the yacht remaining all white. This would ultimately become her final color arrangement.

-Rich.
Old 08-12-2009, 07:17 PM
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hi Rich,

Well motor selection done, ESC selection done, drive train selection done. Now, I know I read somewhere, here or some other forum that power should come from 10-12 AA power pack to give me the correct power for the 25's. I thought originally I would use 12 volt SLAs.

Again your thoughts.

joe

PS I did pick up those extra 25's for $90. Finally score one for joe!!!
Old 08-12-2009, 07:20 PM
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Rich,

Battery pack like this.

http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/tst...p?sid=1524113#
Old 08-12-2009, 07:21 PM
  #1008  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Rich,

Sorry, Pack description did not follow.
Old 08-13-2009, 11:17 AM
  #1009  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hi Joe,

Well done on your purchase! That is a great price for those motors![sm=thumbup.gif]

As far as battery goes, here are some thoughts on the subject:

SLA batteries are not a good choice for those motors. The motors require way too much juice and the SLA battery will be unable to deliver it in long bursts. This will end in poor performance & they will easily kill the life of the battery. The AA battery packs won’t be enough for the Astroflight motors either because of their small size.

I believe that NIMH would be the best overall choice for Dauntless. The NIMH cells could keep up with the Astroflight motors just fine. They are also weighty enough to help out with ballast which will be needed anyway. I would go with 12V C or D rated 5000MAH (10 cell) battery pack for EACH motor for best runtime. (They will last about 10-15 minutes cruising with some high speed passes, depending on throttle habits) I would prefer D rated cells for the extra runtime. I believe that SANYO is still one of the leaders for the better quality NIMH packs but there are others as well. The price of NIMH packs has come down significantly in recent years due the popularity of LIPO’s, so you can find really good NIMH cells for the price of a decent LIPO equivalent.


I am also finding 12V 10,000 MAH rated (D) NIMH batteries. They could possibly double the runtime as a 5000 MAH pack, so this could bring your runtime closer to ½ hour cruising with some high speed passes as well, but again, depending on driving habits. I would want these, just because I am a runtime junky. The price seems a little steep initially but the extra runtime makes it worth while after the bill is paid. Again, this is based on one pack per motor.

If you were nuts like me & fitted Dauntless with a full interior, I would suggest using LIPO as the battery of choice. The completed interior could double or triple the weight of a stock Dauntless so light powerful batteries will be the suggested route. This is to keep the weight down while having the cells take up minimal interior space. At this point I would suggest (2)11.1V 3S (20-25C discharge), 5000 MAH LIPO’s. This will give a heavy Dauntless a good run on Astroflight 25 motors. Some day, I’m sure they will be available in 10,000 MAH, but it will probably be a while before they become available & affordable.

Here is a site pulled from the web with NIMH cells. There are many companies like this around:

[link]http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/items.asp?db=37[/link]

I hope this helps a bit.

-Rich.





Old 08-14-2009, 08:42 AM
  #1010  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hi Captains,

More works was done over the past few days. The hull was prepped for the next color to be applied which will likely happen tomorrow. The main cabin wood planked floor was cleaned & a few coats of gloss polyurethane were applied to protect it. All of the details in the planks really stand out.

-Rich.
Old 08-15-2009, 03:28 PM
  #1011  
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Today I painted the hull midnight blue pearl. It was coming out as planned, but I quickly ran out of paint.[sm=confused_smile.gif] I had bought 2 cans of this paint for the hull because I thought it would be enough especially that I was painting a white background, but apparently it wasn't. So, I called up an automotive dealership to order me four more cans. They will come in on Tuesday & I will continue.

I am lovin' the blue so far![sm=shades_smile.gif]

Tomorrow, I will spend time on the cabin top being that I can't touch the hull at this point. Hopefully, I can do some magic & get it ready for paint sooner than later.

Another thingy on the to do list is order the lettering for Dauntless's stern. I should have it ordered this week.

I will keep you all posted!

-Rich.
Old 08-18-2009, 11:02 PM
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Hi Captains,

So disaster struck.... I got in the new cans of paint & resumed painting the hull. The blue paint seemed to be taking well in the first coats, but it seemed like it just needed more paint to cover. Now that I picked up the new paint & resumed, I sprayed a couple more coats to even it out, well, now the hull resembles blue camoflage....[sm=47_47.gif] This is not good!

I sprayed this blue paint on a primed Krylon surface in the past (about 2 years ago) & had good results so I was under the impression it was going to work. I have just learned that in 2008 Krylon changed their formula from acrylic laquer to oil based. It does not mention any formula change on their primer so I was under the impression it was fine. Well, now I know it is not fine. Krylon is now oil based & the paint I used was acrylic laquer so, I am in for a real fun sanding session. [:@]


Always something..

-Rich.

Old 08-19-2009, 09:28 AM
  #1013  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

On a better note,

I mentioned a while back that the owners cabin wall aft was off by 1/8". Just by looking at it, no one could tell & I would otherwise leave it alone but by having interior walls connect to it, it becomes really obvious, so it needed to be straight. The entire bottom part of the wall was shifted inward by 1/8" so I compensated by epoxying 1/8" wood strip across the bottom outer wall. I made up a new wall from aluminum to cover the existing wall.. This makes the new outer wall (in the lazarette area) perfectly straight. Now I had to do the same on the inside. I had to do the opposite and epoxy a 1/8" wood beam along the corner where the wall and ceiling meet and epoxy an aluminum wall in place. Before I epoxied the walls in place, I cut out the door sections. With the walls in place, I can see the inside of the wall where there will be a door frame so I packed epoxy into the wall to further strengthen the wall and make up the frame where the door will be mounted. I am happy to report it came out great! Now, the cabin sides and the aft wall is totally reinforced by aluminum & is thicker when looking at the newly formed door frame.

Before I fixed the interior wall in place, I epoxied some smaller wood strips inside the interior wall forming a box like cavity about 3/4"W x 2" tall. It is located inside the center of the wall extending to the ceiling where there is a tiny "mouse" hole drilled from the top part of the aluminum that will easily be hidden by the planked ceiling. The idea is to keep a section of the wall free from epoxy when I fix the wall in place. At later point of time, I can carefully drill a small hole in the exterior wall & once I get to the hollow cavity inside the wall, I can run wires & put an exterior light fixture in place for the lazarette. The wiring will travel up the inside wall exiting through the small drilled hole and into the ceiling. The light will be wired in with the rest of the navigation & exterior lighting.

I did not take any pictures of this process, but I will post some pictures in the next day or 2.

-Rich.
Old 08-21-2009, 10:41 AM
  #1014  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Update,

Today I sanded the hull. I will not be able to use the midnight blue pearl but at least I can continue with minimal loss of time. After some research & advice from the pros, I am using Rustoleum oil based grey primer to prime the hull. The hull took to the primer so I am back in business. Once I post this, I am going to a few stores looking for dark blue oil based spray paint. The color I am looking for is either Flag or Navy blue which would have been the color used on the original vessel. So much for my idea of using a fancy blue!

I think I mentioned this before, but this boat seems to dictate to me how it wants to be built & not the other way around![sm=50_50.gif]

-Rich.
Old 08-21-2009, 09:21 PM
  #1015  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Rich:

I know that color-match feeling. Having serious match problems with the yellow on my 'Theodore Tugboat' (a custom pseudo-replica of the kid's show tugboat) and I've a feeling its Caterpillar yellow, which is impossible to get unless you work in a Cat repair dealership. I know where one of the local depots is, and may try to snag a pint (or spray-can or two) from 'em.

On the Dauntless front (finally) I knuckled down and trimmed the bottom-aft hull plates where they meet the sides, in preparation for adding the aft sides. Now I see I'm supposed to do the bottom-forward area with the A/B/C pieces first. I'm missing a C plank, but can make do, but in looking at how they mount, realised the front of my bottom-aft plates are sufficiently forward of the frame that I need to mount the 'glue-brace' to the hull, not the frame. Add to that the fact that the plate is supposed to be flex'd slightly at that point to conform to the frame/hull curve, so i had to pause and glue the front of the hull plate to the frame.

Yes, promised pics, will try to organize, label, and post 'em this weekend, or after my repeat iron infusion Monday (which hopefully will 'Energizer bunny' me as the former one dinna)

Also stripped the AE's superstructure with the last of the Circa 1850 gel... I dinna realise what a mess mixing paint types on a hull can do when you go back to renovate (wasn't me) Only downside to the gel is it damages the wood-filler, but I've got lots here, and have some Mighty Putty on the way (eBay, $7.50 for 3 tubes, shipped)

Gonna look into a small grease-gun as I've got both four-footers that are gonna have 'nipples', and possibly some of the smaller ones too.

I know the feeling on the "It tells you how it wants to be built" deal... And its usually when you're halfway into a way it doesn't want to be built, too! Think most construction efforts have an architect/designer named 'Murphy', eh?

PS: You still out there Butch?
I'm still awaiting that shipping estimate. My pal in the US said sure, no problem, soon as you let me know, I PayPal him the $, and he sends you the cheque in US funds from within the US. I did an estimate, and even with PayPal fees, its ~still~ cheaper than getting a money order on this side! Isn't that rediculous?
Old 08-27-2009, 09:23 AM
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hi Whitewolf ,

I think I may have found the Caterpiller yellow you are looking for. Rust-oleum makes it in spray paint form and they call it “Cat†yellow. It is considered farm equipment paint. Check with a local hardware store chain in your area that carries Rust-oleum spray paint and see if they have it or if they can order it for you, just give them the paint name & model number which is: Model # 7449-830. Good luck getting it; I know how frustrating it is to find a specific color. "It's neva round' when ya need it!"

Here is the link:

[link]http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/49-266-industrial-spray-paint/rust-oleum-farm-equipment-paint-510944.aspx[/link]

Hello All: update:

I was able to find the navy blue paint for Dauntless which was also made by Rust-oleum. The hull was painted and came out really nice. The color tone is gorgeous but because it only came in gloss, the hull has a shiny glass finish. (I am sure that most people would approve the glass look..it does look really nice!) As great as it looked, I lightly sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper and gave it another few coats and it is currently lookin’ good. I am going to sand again, give it one final good coat and again, lightly sand just to remove the shine.

I am currently waiting for the lettering for the back of the boat to come in. I submitted the specifications to be made up. The guy, or company seems a little slow so, I hope he sends the proof to me soon so I can either tweek or approve it, which will be done by e-mail. I am about to go into busy season at work, so I need it finalized ASAP so he can send it to me.

The finished product will be a water slide decal for the back of the boat featuring her name and original port of call, done in 22-24k gold lettering with black outline.. Once it is in place and cured, I am going to clear coat the “blue†in a satin finish which should hopefully tone down the glass like shine while protecting the lettering on the stern which will also be under clear coat. When I inquired about the lettering, I was told that when the decal is clear coated, it disappears into the finish, giving it the professional look of the painted letting found on full sized boats & yachts. Oh yes.... I made sure the satin finish clear coat was compatible to this paint before getting it...

I am going to hold off on posting pictures until this is complete.

During all this, I have been working on the cabins getting it together for paint as well. No custom colors there, so it should be pretty straight forward, just satin finished light grey & white while the bottom paint remains flat red.

-Rich.

Old 08-27-2009, 10:50 AM
  #1017  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Um...

I know someone out there probably has 'em scanned... and I feel like a fool for misplacing my set... but can someone e-mail me the Dauntless Build plans?

I'm at the stage where I want to start the superstructure assembly before I glue the D1-3 deck pieces down, mainly to be sure they aren't placed too far inward (requiring sanding) or outward (requiring shimming) I've already noticed my balsa shers aren't quite level... but as they aren't the deck, I can make sure the D-pieces are all level when the go down (8 kilos of lead sheet cut in managable strips can make nice hold-downs, and the 1/44 inch ex-hockey rink glass is definately a flat surface!)

PM me, but the e-mail link works too. I'll make sure its linked to my Rogers address so Hotmail won't bounce it.

Rich:

Thanks for the data... and I tracked it back to the Tremclad/Rustoleum proper ID #'s: 27274 for OLD Cat Yellow, and 27275 for NEW Cat Yellow. The ID# you gave me was specific to the hardware company you sourced, but it DID lead me to check the Rustoleum source! And its Canada/US common, unlike many other brands that use different #'s for US or Canada-distributed items (like The Source/Circuit City) Now to see if I can find it to see which of the two matches.


Thanks in advance,
WhiteWolf
Old 08-27-2009, 08:20 PM
  #1018  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Whitewolf,

I have the plans and build instructions in a package all ready to go, but I'm on vacation and I won't be home for 10-12 more days.

If you want to wait I can send them out to you. I guess I could scan them and e-mail them to you but either case you gotta wait.

Let me know

Joe
Old 08-27-2009, 10:24 PM
  #1019  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Joe:

Sure... if anyone can scan 'em quickly before then, lemme know. I only need the stuff relevant to the superstructure assembly.

I'm kicking myself... 'cause I ~KNOW~ the farkin' prints are around... next and probably last place to liik are all my rolled-item storage tubes. Think its time I scanned all my important documents, and had dupe's made and laminated... haven't got muh more to decorate the walls with, being a cheap SoB bachelor.

WhiteWolf
Old 08-28-2009, 08:13 AM
  #1020  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hi Whitewolf,

Sent ya a PM.

-Rich.
Old 08-30-2009, 12:33 AM
  #1021  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Dammit...

I ~really~ hate Dumas for using cheap ply... the extreme bow sections of the A planks have delaminated and come apart forward of the 2nd frame, so I'm going to have to cross-plank the ~whole~ bow section, not just the upper section. Its that, or stuff a Balsa block in either side and trim it down to match the necessary contour - Not a pleasant idea.

Add to that the bad stock fit of the planking. The 1st C plank isn't even close to the right shape, and needs a nice bevel-chunk cut out of one end to match the B-plank. I contemplated ripping all the C's in half, then flexing 'em slightly like I did with the B's... If it is too rough/messy by the Time I get to the keel, I may just pull it all back off (the fore-part that is) and use the surplus-balsa to plank it after all.

Hmmm... I could use flower-arranging styrofoam blocks to fill the bow, then overplank ~that~ to get the right shape. And as I'm using thinned-Epoxy to seal it, I could use thin balsa planking over it...

We'll have to see... and gotta look the those plans. All my poster-carry roll-tubes are the last possibility...

Update: The plans WERE in the transport tubes. I remember that I'd prepared 'em to be copied and laminated a while back, and never got to it. Will try to get off my butt and do it tomorrow (along with having a few other things laminated too)

Thanks Joe, DF - no rush for the plans now, but I ~would~ like a digital copy anyway, just for safety, and if I have 'em scanned it'll set me back at least $30.
Old 08-31-2009, 01:25 AM
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

oh BOTHER!

I test-fitted the planks before I started gluing 'em down, and I would have ~sworn~ the A-strip was the one to be glued closest the keel, then the B, and finally the trio of C's, the last C-plank being placed where the spray-rail divides the side from the bottom of the hull. Now in looking at the plans, I see I've got 'em reversed, and that the A's were outboard at the spray rail, with the B's in the middle, and the final C's meeting at the keel.

Where the instructions said to start with the A-plank, I'd have ~assumed~ one would start at the keel, and move outward, right? You'd glue the A's either side of the keel, and they fit nicely, as do the B's beside it. But the first C needs significant trimming down one end...

Now the question becomes: Should I try to pull the A & B planks up, and start over, or continue as I'm doing? And if I continue, should I rip the C's in half to make 'em conform better as I thought before?

Did anyone reverse-plank it as I have done? (aka, placed the A's inboard at the keel?)

PS: If I pull 'em back off the hull frames, I'm gonna toss 'em, and rip some 1/2" to 1" balsa strips, and use them to plank it. Be easier to flex 'em and taper 'em to the hull too.

Thoughts guys?

Old 09-03-2009, 06:49 PM
  #1023  
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hi Whitewolf,

Sorry, I have been offline for the last bunch o' days. Did you get the plank thingy straightened out? It is a headache when ya think something looks right and have to go back and correct it. Here I am 11 years later fixing little things here & there that went wrong on the original build. It is very annoying...

To answer the question above, I think it is a good idea to carefully remove & reset the planks according to Dumas instructions, but you have to make the executive decision on that. I'm not sure if it makes much of a difference or not or how well you fixed them in place..

I haven't been able to work on Dauntless for about a week now. I have been waiting for the Transom proof to come back plus overtime at work AND house work threw a wrench in my clock work.

Today I finally approved the proof for the transom lettering so it will be sent to me shortly. It was a bit pricey to order the custom lettering, but I am sure it will look better than what I can do free hand. I will post it when it arrives.

I cannot wait to check it out.

-Rich.


Old 09-04-2009, 12:26 PM
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Rich:

You're the only one thats commented on 'em. And you're right, if they are going down neatly, who the heck cares if they went on the hull in the wrong order. I AM gonna run the C's thru my table-dremel with the caw blade on to rip 'em into two bits so they can be conform'd to the shape better. It may also leave me with enough spare from the split bits to make do with just the 5 C's instead of 6, as I dinna waste any at the mottom/side junction (or VERY little)

OH... finally got off my tush, and hit the copy/scan shop (its only a mile away) and found out scans are DIRT cheap... 0.25 cents a sq.ft. (and Cdn yet!) so I'm having both sheets (yea, I found 'em) at at least 300 dpi, though i asked if they could dop 'em as high as 600. Anyone wanting a set, just hollar (PS: they should be ready by 17:00 Eastern, and then I just need to upload 'em - [:@] BLAST [:@], they ain't done, guess I'll have to go get 'em tomorrow! You can stioll email/PM to 'reserve' a copy )

I also decided to get my masters first copied so I can highlight where the superstructure plates go, and then have the masters laminated after the scan. I really like having masters that will LAST... don't you? Besides, they make nice display pieces when you have the model at a show.

I may slowly get all my plans and prints done over at the shop, both scan'd and lam'd... and order a few more plans I've been contemplating. Besides, they make nice wall decor, always hated paintings, they usually cost too much or are tacky as hell.
Old 09-04-2009, 10:39 PM
  #1025  
werdonmorris
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Default RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless

Hey Gang, I'am back, and full of passion to finish my boat project. The decision was long and hard, but I finally blueprinted my idea for the upper cabin. I have my table set up, and in the morning, I shall begin the construction.
I believe I put 2,300 miles on my ranger to check out boats, and factories along the way. What is crazy, The general design of my hood scoop gave me alot of insight as well.
Will post pictures later Saturday afternoon-And may all Captains, and there Families have a safe Labor Day !

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