robtmelvin

I am new to the hobby and would appreicate any information any of you could provide on my question. I've been looking around for a hobby that I could enjoy with my grandson, and this seemed to fit the bill perfectly.
I've been looking at two different P.T. 109 RC models. This first, which seems to be the most popular, is the ProBoat RTF model. My research on this one indicates that while it is not without its problems, it is generally a good boat, particularly for a RTF.
The second one I've been looking at is the three motor P.T. 109 available from RC Command. There is quite a difference in price, with the ProBoat model going for about $470.00 and the three motor version going for about $900.00. Not chump change!
Has anybody had any experince with either of these, especially the three motor model. In spite of the price, I'm attracted to the more realistic configuration of the three motor model. But, I don't want to sink that much more money into that one unless it is really worth it.
Any help or advise any of you could give would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

Hydro Junkie

Two other options, if you want to build, are the Dumas 33" PT-109 or the 30" PT-212. The two boats are very different, since the 109 was an 80 foot Elco and the 212 was a 78 foot Higgins. They are smaller than the Pro Boat RTR, but at the same time, you could set it up yourself the way you want. Both kits are under $200 so it might be a viable option.

robtmelvin

Hydro,

Thanks for the input. I've looked at the two kits you mentioned, but right now I'm more interested in a RTF/RTR than getting into a kit build. Have you had any experience with either the ProBoat model or the three engine model, or know anybody who has. As I said in my original post, I'm intested in getting into the hobby as something to do with my grandson that we can both enjoy (plus satisfying a long standing curiosity about the hobby of my own) and I don't really want to take the time required for a "build" at this point. Maybe down the road, when I've gained more experience and see if this is something my grandson will get into a "build" will be somethingI will be interested in trying.
Thanks again,

Bob

Hydro Junkie

Unfortunately, I have to say no to both questions. I'm not a torpedo boat type of person

pblix

Hi,

In my mind the three-motor model is WAY over-priced. Keep in mind it is quite a bit smaller (1:31 scale vs 1:24 for the pro-boat).

I'd think of it this way: for an additional $430 you'll get a third motor in a smaller boat. The scale appearance of the third prop is only going to matter out of the water - that's not where the fun happens in my opinion.

A major advantage for the pro-boat is it's larger size. It is intentionally weighted down with ballast. This leaves you with a great advantage either for more batteries (for longer run time) or installing that third motor if you so choose.

Just to let you know, there is also a third option. Graupner makes a 1:32 PT 109. It is an ARTR (Almost RTR) - i.e. you need to purchase radio etc separately and install it yourself. It is a two motor version. I've found it for $400 + shipping online. It probably comes out to almost the same price as the pro-boat, but I just thought I'd mention it.

I have a page on my website about options for [link=http://www.building-model-boats.com/rc-pt-boats.html]RC PT Boats[/link] that you might find helpful. I'd seen the RC Command model on ebay, but never took it seriously at that price (hence it's not included in my write-up).

HTH

Petter

robtmelvin

Petter,
Thanks for your reply to my post. After doing as much research on the net as I could I came to the same conclusion you have - for one extra motor and prop, a smaller boat, and $430.00 more money it is NOT worth the money. Since I couldn't find anything else about that model I wondered if it is one that somebody built from a kit or from scratch, or a modification of another model and most importantly, of unknown quality. So, I ordered the ProBoat model.

I have thought about the possibility of installling a third motor in the ProBoat I bought, perhaps as a winter project. Do you have any suggestions about this? Also, would it be possible to convert the electric ProBoat 109 to gas and if it is, would there be any advantage to doing it, such as extended run time? I'd appreciate any thoughts or suggestions you might have on those questions.

As I put in my original post, I'm a newbie at this hobby and I'm interested in getting into it as a hobby I can share and enjoy with my grandson (as well as satisfying a life long interest in WW II warships, especially the P.T.s, and just having a heck of a lot of fun). Maybe get him into modeling, whichI enjoyed when I was younger, and RC modeling in particular.

I did check out your site and there is a lot of great info there, so I saved it to my favorites. Thanks again for your help and I appreciate any additional information or advice you could give me on the questions of adding a third motor to the ProBoat 109 or converting it to gas.

Bob

pblix

Bob,

First, congrats! I think you made a good choice.

I'm not sure it will benefit from a third motor. I'd say if you'll find it runs well enough on two, don't mess with it. By adding a third motor you are shortening the runtime per charge and introducing an "imbalance" in torque. This will lead to asymmetrical handling behaviors that can be anything from barely noticable to annoying. This will be most noticable at low speed though, just something to keep in mind.

Also, to benefit from this, make sure you use the exact same motor type as the other two, and the same prop diameter and pitch - otherwise you won't get the full advantage. It shouldn't be too hard to find, use Pro-boat spare parts. I'm just saying this because I'm a cheap-skate and would have jumped for one of my surplus motors.

So, in short, I'd stick with two motors for the convenience and balance.

If you find runtime lacking, The least expensive and (least) labor intensive solution is probably to remove the ballast and add batteries (also carry "spares" pond-side). The next on the list would be to go change out the motors for something more efficient - brushless motors comes to mind. But expect to drop some good money into the model. Brushless motors in combination with more batteries may give you the best of both worlds in terms of run time and speed.

Changing it over to gas or nitro is entirely possible and both runtime and speed is likely to increase. But realize, rarely do you see multi-engines in RC boats. Probably because it is difficult to get them to run reasonably syncronized. Most folks would change to a single motor, shaft and prop for the simplicity of it.

You could run one motor with a gearbox to multiple shafts, but now we're talking extensive rebuild. Something most of us would shy away from due to skill and tools involved. Also, bear in mind more and more ponds and lakes are becoming off-limits for conbustion engine models due to noise pollution.

I appreciate that very much!

Petter

robtmelvin

Petter,

Sorry to take so long to reply to your last post. Things have been really busy.

Thanks again for your input. You are a wellspring of information for a newbie like me. I'm sure I'll have more questions as time goes by and I hope that I'll be able to be able to benefit in future from your knowlege and input.

As I think about what you wrote and consider it, what you say makes great sense. Basically, don't mess with it. LOL. I think anything Ido will be in the nature of trying to make things a bit more accurate topside. On that subject, my research indicates that the boat should have a coat of reddish-rust colored anit-fouling paint on the hull for an accurate paint scheme. Any thoughts on that? Also, any suggestions for sources for scale after market parts/additions to make the topsides more accurate in appearance?

Thanks in advance for any info you can give me.

Bob

pblix

Bob,

Thanks for the kudos!

You're right, it was my long-winded way of saying "wait and see"

You are right about the anti-fouling paint, it's that "iron-oxide red" (aka rust).

As to details, there was a place in the UK I stumbled across. I can't seem to find the URL right now. A good source in general for anything PT boats is John Drain's site in Australia. He has a lot of helpful links and info. I'd be surprised if you couldn't find links for something helpful through his site. Just Google his name and "PT boats" and it'll come up.

For accurate plans to help detail the topsides, consider the plans from Al Ross (Google his name with "coastal forces" ).


P.S. I really need to organize my bookmarks better - sorry about that.


Petter

Fodigo

I know you already picked up one thats RTR and probably good since your new to the hobby. It will alllow you time to get used to the components. Here's a thought for net time. I just picked up an ARR (almost ready - just install radio) Midwest PT109 (40")that's basically new - never ran for 200 bucks. I read a thread in regards to the problems but they all seem to have but are easily fixable and I like the idea of putting in my own radio so I can have better range. The RTR's just seem to have less radio range than my futaba. But - I guesssome mfgsare now upping their game to 2.4g so no crystals. I like that innovation.

Good luck with your boat - would like to see pics if you got em.

Fodigo

The Midwest PT arrived yesterday - by way of my bro in SoCal. Glad it wasnt shipped and thankful hedrove itup north to my place and hand delivered it- turns out - this PT kitis very fragile! However - the few things so far have been easy fixes.

Out of the box - it's a BIG boat - (IMPRESSIVE!) large enough to drop in a Zenoah 26cc if someone had the gumption. recall - this was an ebay item so there were a few defects.

The Gun Turret rails - all were broken and I "assumed" they were plastic - they are not. In fact - they are made of metal and easily re soldered back in place. On a side note - don't use a torch - or MAPP - or any flame sourcefor that matter (it will melt the wire!). So after I toned down my heat source to a simple soldering pin, the repair went easy and quick. Solder held tightly with flux addedand any railing pieces that were missing - were replaced by means of a brazing rod. (Same size as the railing pieces).

I installed the radio tower that required some customizing to get it to fit correctly in the main house roofing. That will get detailed later.

I also added two front windows and placed windowsalong the right and left side of the main cabin house. Odd - they only covered two of the 10 windows in the boat - but an easy fix just the same. Christmas time - the kids toy boxes all come with clear plastic that make great windows(hint for anyone needing material this year for ascale window project)-Pieces of that cut into shape, addsome silicon adhesive to the frameand the job was done in about 15 minutes.

Installed the steering servo which was a tight fit to the control box. I had to grind some wood around the edges to enable me to hard push the servo into place. Didn't need any retaining screws because it fit tight but what the heck - I put in a couple for good measure anyway.

the stuffing tubes come with a riser that is made for filling the tubes with grease. These were prefilled and I gave the hull a press dunk in water to make sure no water would come from either the rudder tubes or stuffing tubes. After about 10 minutes, the hull was checked and as dry as I put it in the water. Water test:Check!

One of the front railing pieces came loose and were fixed.

The torpedo tubes were removed and the mounts fixed. The screw that holds eachtorpedo tube down was loose so it was easy to remove them to get to the mounts.


more to come later on the progress later on this build.'...